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\rsid16658239\rsid16659920\rsid16660182\rsid16663522\rsid16666011\rsid16670673\rsid16672669\rsid16675906\rsid16676126\rsid16712661\rsid16713017\rsid16718370\rsid16718829\rsid16720613\rsid16722007\rsid16725122\rsid16727909\rsid16728315\rsid16733109
\rsid16735052\rsid16735088\rsid16735681\rsid16737279\rsid16738308}{\*\generator Microsoft Word 10.0.6612;}{\info{\title An instance of the more things change, the more lipstick remains the same}{\author Preferred Customer}{\operator Computing Services}
{\creatim\yr2006\mo6\dy7\hr11\min35}{\revtim\yr2006\mo6\dy7\hr11\min38}{\printim\yr2006\mo5\dy19\hr16\min48}{\version3}{\edmins3}{\nofpages95}{\nofwords20883}{\nofchars119039}{\*\company Dell Computer Corporation}{\nofcharsws139643}{\vern16389}}
\margl1008\margr1008 \widowctrl\ftnbj\aenddoc\noxlattoyen\expshrtn\noultrlspc\dntblnsbdb\nospaceforul\formshade\horzdoc\dgmargin\dghspace120\dgvspace180\dghorigin1008\dgvorigin1440\dghshow2\dgvshow2
\jexpand\viewkind1\viewscale93\pgbrdrhead\pgbrdrfoot\splytwnine\ftnlytwnine\htmautsp\nolnhtadjtbl\useltbaln\alntblind\lytcalctblwd\lyttblrtgr\lnbrkrule\rsidroot15092860 \fet0{\*\ftnsep \pard\plain 
\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid7943572 \fs24\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\insrsid7943572 \chftnsep 
\par }}{\*\ftnsepc \pard\plain \ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid7943572 \fs24\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\insrsid7943572 \chftnsepc 
\par }}{\*\aftnsep \pard\plain \ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid7943572 \fs24\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\insrsid7943572 \chftnsep 
\par }}{\*\aftnsepc \pard\plain \ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid7943572 \fs24\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\insrsid7943572 \chftnsepc 
\par }}\sectd \psz1\linex0\endnhere\sectlinegrid360\sectdefaultcl\sectrsid10830499\sftnbj {\*\pnseclvl1\pnucrm\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang {\pntxta .}}{\*\pnseclvl2\pnucltr\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang {\pntxta .}}{\*\pnseclvl3\pndec\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang
{\pntxta .}}{\*\pnseclvl4\pnlcltr\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang {\pntxta )}}{\*\pnseclvl5\pndec\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang {\pntxtb (}{\pntxta )}}{\*\pnseclvl6\pnlcltr\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang {\pntxtb (}{\pntxta )}}{\*\pnseclvl7
\pnlcrm\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang {\pntxtb (}{\pntxta )}}{\*\pnseclvl8\pnlcltr\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang {\pntxtb (}{\pntxta )}}{\*\pnseclvl9\pnlcrm\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang {\pntxtb (}{\pntxta )}}\pard\plain 
\qc \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid5329651 \fs24\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\fs40\insrsid10830499 
\par 
\par 
\par 
\par }{\fs40\insrsid11102441\charrsid3826080 Reading Our Lips}{\fs40\insrsid5180349\charrsid3826080 :}{\fs40\insrsid5329651\charrsid3826080 
\par }{\fs40\insrsid799859\charrsid3826080 The History of Lipstick }{\fs40\insrsid2635729\charrsid3826080 Regulation}{\fs40\insrsid799859\charrsid3826080  }{\fs40\insrsid2635729\charrsid3826080 i}{\fs40\insrsid5180349\charrsid3826080 n }{
\fs40\insrsid2635729\charrsid3826080 Western Seats of}{\fs40\insrsid5180349\charrsid3826080  Power
\par }{\fs40\insrsid5329651\charrsid3826080 
\par 
\par 
\par Sarah Schaffer
\par Class of 2006
\par 
\par 
\par 
\par }{\fs40\insrsid14445308\charrsid3826080 May 19}{\fs40\insrsid5329651\charrsid3826080 , 2006
\par 
\par 
\par 
\par 
\par 
\par 
\par 
\par 
\par }\pard \qc \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid10830499 {\fs32\insrsid5329651\charrsid3826080 This paper is submitted in satisfaction of the Food & Drug Law course requirement in conjunction with the third-year 
written work requ}{\fs32\insrsid10830499\charrsid3826080 irement.\sect }\sectd \marglsxn1440\margrsxn1440\linex0\endnhere\sectlinegrid360\sectdefaultcl\sectrsid8729499\sftnbj \pard\plain 
\qc \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid8593359 \fs24\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\insrsid16596382\charrsid3826080 Abstract}{\insrsid4483284\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid4414212 {\insrsid10965581\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid10830499 {\insrsid10965581\charrsid3826080 This paper trace}{\insrsid11170153\charrsid3826080 s the history of lipstick\rquote }{
\insrsid10965581\charrsid3826080 s }{\insrsid11170153\charrsid3826080 social and legal }{\insrsid10965581\charrsid3826080 regulation in West}{\insrsid9244899\charrsid3826080 ern seats of power, from}{\insrsid10965581\charrsid3826080  Ur}{
\insrsid9244899\charrsid3826080  circa 3,500 B.C. to}{\insrsid10421078\charrsid3826080  the present-day United States.  }{\insrsid799859\charrsid3826080 Sliced in this manner, lipstick\rquote }{\insrsid10830499\charrsid3826080 s history emerges as}{
\insrsid799859\charrsid3826080  heavily cyclical}{\insrsid10830499\charrsid3826080  across}{\insrsid799859\charrsid3826080  the Egyptian, Grecian, Roman, Western European, English, and American reigns of power.  }{\insrsid15162479\charrsid3826080 
Examination of}{\insrsid9244899\charrsid3826080  both}{\insrsid15405418\charrsid3826080  the informal social }{\insrsid9244899\charrsid3826080 and formal legal regulation of lipsti}{\insrsid3948330\charrsid3826080 ck }{\insrsid7746714\charrsid3826080 
throughout}{\insrsid10830499\charrsid3826080  these eras}{\insrsid799859\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3948330\charrsid3826080 reveals that}{\insrsid10965581\charrsid3826080  lipstick\rquote s fluctuating }{\insrsid3948330\charrsid3826080 signification}{
\insrsid15162479\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid859833\charrsid3826080 concerning }{\insrsid7284125 wearers\rquote  }{\insrsid859833\charrsid3826080 class and gender }{\insrsid15162479\charrsid3826080 has }{\insrsid3112164\charrsid3826080 always }{
\insrsid15162479\charrsid3826080 largely determined the extent and type}{\insrsid7746714\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid15162479\charrsid3826080  of lipstick regulations that }{\insrsid10830499\charrsid3826080 Western }{\insrsid15162479\charrsid3826080 
societies put in place.  }{\insrsid799859\charrsid3826080 Medical and scientific knowledge}{\insrsid7746714\charrsid3826080 , however,}{\insrsid799859\charrsid3826080  has}{\insrsid10421078\charrsid3826080 
 also played an important secondary role in lipstick\rquote s regulatory scheme.  }{\insrsid10830499\charrsid3826080 Thus, lipstick }{\insrsid11102441\charrsid3826080 status laws}{\insrsid2435007 , primarily intended to protect men,}{
\insrsid11102441\charrsid3826080  long predated laws concerning}{\insrsid15162479\charrsid3826080  lipstick safety.}{\insrsid11102441\charrsid3826080   Safety laws, in turn, }{\insrsid859833\charrsid3826080 long }{\insrsid11102441\charrsid3826080 
focused solely on human safety before very recently }{\insrsid859833\charrsid3826080 also }{\insrsid11102441\charrsid3826080 branching out into environmental and animal safety.}{\insrsid10421078\charrsid3826080   In the future, }{
\insrsid10830499\charrsid3826080 Western societies}{\insrsid10421078\charrsid3826080 
 should expect to see a continuation of lipstick status regulations, albeit probably informal social ones, as well as increasingly comprehensive lipstick safety regulations regarding human, environmental, and animal well-being.}{
\insrsid799859\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \qc \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid8593359 {\insrsid6165074\charrsid3826080 
\par 
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\par }{\insrsid7746714\charrsid3826080 
\par 
\par }{\insrsid6165074\charrsid3826080 
\par 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid2435007 {\insrsid6165074\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \qc \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid8593359 {\insrsid8587741\charrsid3826080 Ur and Egypt}{\insrsid1010699\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid1010699 {\insrsid6368106\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid9795410 {\insrsid5444692\charrsid3826080 Historically, }{\insrsid1010699\charrsid3826080 one was}{\insrsid5444692\charrsid3826080 
 relatively less likely to die }{\insrsid6368106\charrsid3826080 from lipstick than from most}{\insrsid5444692\charrsid3826080  other cosmetic}{\insrsid6368106\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid5444692\charrsid3826080  product}{\insrsid6368106\charrsid3826080 s}
{\insrsid5444692\charrsid3826080 .  This does not mean}{\insrsid6368106\charrsid3826080 , however, that lipstick has a past }{\insrsid10894249\charrsid3826080 lack}{\insrsid5136243\charrsid3826080 ing in either danger or fascination}{
\insrsid15825966\charrsid3826080 .  Lipstick\rquote s}{\insrsid6368106\charrsid3826080  appropriate}{\insrsid1010699\charrsid3826080 ly colorful history began with }{\insrsid11893346\charrsid3826080 Queen Schub-ad}{\insrsid5444692\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid6368106\charrsid3826080 of ancient Ur.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9925802\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 
{\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  To situate Ur for modern Western readers: Ur stood a major city in Sumer, one of Mesopotamia\rquote s four distinct
 civilizations that also included Akkad, Assyria, and Babylonia.  We now know the entire region as Iraq.  S}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ally}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , T}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 he}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  A}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 rtifice}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 of }{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 B}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 eauty: }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 A H}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 istory and}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ractical }{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 uide to }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 erfumes and }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 osmetics}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  11 (2005).}}}{\insrsid5136243\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9925802\charrsid3826080 Circa}{\insrsid5444692\charrsid3826080  3,500 B.C.,}{\cs16\super\insrsid14166528\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , F}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 enja}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , T}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 he}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  A}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 rtificial }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 F}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ace: }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 A H}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 istory of }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 osmetics}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 35 (1973).  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 But see}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 1, at 11 (suggesting the date of first lipstick use closer to 2,500 B.C.).}}}{\insrsid11893346\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid9925802\charrsid3826080 this Sumerian queen}{\insrsid5444692\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid9925802\charrsid3826080 
used lip colorant }{\insrsid11223407\charrsid3826080 made with }{\insrsid5444692\charrsid3826080 a base of white lead}{\insrsid11223407\charrsid3826080  and crushed red rocks.}{\cs16\super\insrsid11223407\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Gunn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 2, at 35 (stating that this original lip color contained white lead).  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , M}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 eg}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ohen}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas &}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 aren }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ead }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 M}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 y}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  L}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ips: }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 A C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ultural }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 H}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 istory of }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 L}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ipstick}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 13 (1998) (stating that this original lip color contained crushed red rocks).  Such information about ancient lipsticks\rquote  components has recently become available through gas chromatograp
hy, which allows for identification of minute residues extracted from old containers.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 1, at x.  The ingredient identification remains imperfect, however, because: some ingredient compounds have altered or disappeared over time, cosmeti
cs containers often served multiple uses and so contain residues from multiple substances, and the waterproofing treatments used on the cosmetics containers interferes with residue analysis.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at x-xi.  Fortunately, in some cases, wri
tten evidence can help corroborate the chromatographic findings or help fill the informational gaps.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at ix.}}}{\insrsid10894249\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid4658127\charrsid3826080 The Sumerian people apparently adopted the practice with gusto}{\insrsid5136243\charrsid3826080 , as Sir Leonard }{
\insrsid4658127\charrsid3826080 Woolley\rquote s }{\insrsid5136243\charrsid3826080 excavation of Ur}{\insrsid4658127\charrsid3826080 \rquote s \lquote Royal Cemete}{\insrsid5136243\charrsid3826080 ry\rquote  revealed }{\insrsid4658127\charrsid3826080 
that those who could afford to do so had themselves buried with their }{\insrsid5136243\charrsid3826080 lip paint}{\insrsid4658127\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid5136243\charrsid3826080  stored}{\insrsid4658127\charrsid3826080  in cockleshells.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid4658127\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 11-15.}}}{\insrsid4658127\charrsid3826080 
  Neighbori}{\insrsid10307799\charrsid3826080 ng Assyrians, both women and men}{\insrsid4658127\charrsid3826080 , likewise began painting their lips red.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4658127\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ichard}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , F}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ashions in }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 M}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 akeup from }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 A}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ncient to }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 M}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 odern }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 T}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 imes}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  25 (2003).}}}{\insrsid5667651\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid4725172 {\insrsid8600725\charrsid3826080 Lipstick culture then reached the burgeoning }{\insrsid9861436\charrsid3826080 Egyptian }{
\insrsid8600725\charrsid3826080 empire, where it continued to }{\insrsid931080\charrsid3826080 primarily }{\insrsid8600725\charrsid3826080 denote social status rather than gender.  Egyptian }{\insrsid9861436\charrsid3826080 men and women}{
\insrsid8600725\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid9861436\charrsid3826080 boldly applied makeup as part of their daily routine,}{\insrsid1838371\charrsid3826080  using, in some form, most of the cosmetic aides ever devised.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid1838371\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 8.}}}{\insrsid14691930\charrsid3826080   Eyes had the most}{\insrsid1838371\charrsid3826080  cult}{\insrsid3948330\charrsid3826080 
ural importance, and so garner}{\insrsid14691930\charrsid3826080 ed}{\insrsid1838371\charrsid3826080  the most attention, but lips too received color from red ochre, either applied alone o}{\insrsid14777536\charrsid3826080 r mixed with resin or gum for }{
\insrsid1838371\charrsid3826080 more lasting finish.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1838371\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 16-19.}}}{\insrsid10307799\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid14691930\charrsid3826080 Like }{\insrsid3948330\charrsid3826080 all Egyptian cosmetics, lip color}{
\insrsid14691930\charrsid3826080  was }{\insrsid5329651\charrsid3826080 concocted}{\insrsid14691930\charrsid3826080  at home in brass or wooden makeup kits}{\cs16\super\insrsid14691930\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  J}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 essica}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , L}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ipstick}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 7 (1999).  A typical Egyptian makeup kit would include: pots for mixing lip color, egg whites for facials, pumice stones and razors for scraping off body hair, crushed ant eggs for eyeliner, and perfume. }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid14691930\charrsid3826080  and perfumed.}{\cs16\super\insrsid14691930\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 12.}}}{\insrsid931080\charrsid3826080   Dur}{\insrsid16733109\charrsid3826080 ing the empire\rquote s heyday and twilight}{\insrsid15546076\charrsid3826080 
 years, lip paint}{\insrsid931080\charrsid3826080  increased in importance and sophistication}{\insrsid4725172\charrsid3826080 , with }{\insrsid1982996\charrsid3826080 its }{\insrsid4725172\charrsid3826080 use continuingly unhindered by }{
\insrsid5791544\charrsid3826080 any form of }{\insrsid4725172\charrsid3826080 regulation}{\insrsid931080\charrsid3826080 .  Popular color choices included orange, magenta, and blue-black.}{\cs16\super\insrsid931080\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 8.}}}{\insrsid931080\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid6167132\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid1982996\charrsid3826080 Red}{\insrsid4725172\charrsid3826080  also remained a fashionable option, and, in fact,}{\insrsid5791544\charrsid3826080  the }{\insrsid15280599\charrsid3826080 use of}{\insrsid6167132\charrsid3826080  carmine as a primary 
}{\insrsid4725172\charrsid3826080 red }{\insrsid6167132\charrsid3826080 dye}{\insrsid4725172\charrsid3826080  in lipstick initially came from Egypt\rquote s}{\insrsid1906474\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid10634937\charrsid3826080 50 B.C. avante garde}{
\insrsid1982996\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid4725172\charrsid3826080  such}{\insrsid1906474\charrsid3826080  as Cl}{\insrsid6167132\charrsid3826080 eopatra}{\insrsid2432283\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid1906474\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 3, at 13.  Carmine dye comes from the dried, ground remains of pregnant female cochineal insects, whose fatty flesh and eggs are red.  T}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 eresa}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 I}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 nventing }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 B}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 eauty}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  36 (2004).  These cohineal insects live as parasites on prickly pear cacti.  Susan Okie, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Coloring in Food, Makeup Tied to Allergic Attacks, }
{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Wash. Post, }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 December 9, 1997, at Z5.}}}{\insrsid8587741\charrsid3826080   In life, it became a social mandate to }{\insrsid3948330\charrsid3826080 apply }{
\insrsid8587741\charrsid3826080 li}{\insrsid3948330\charrsid3826080 p paint}{\insrsid8587741\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid931080\charrsid3826080 using wet sticks of wood, and}{\insrsid8587741\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid931080\charrsid3826080  in death}{
\insrsid8587741\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid931080\charrsid3826080  each well-to-do woman to}{\insrsid3948330\charrsid3826080 ok at least two pots of lip paint}{\insrsid931080\charrsid3826080  to her tomb}{\insrsid8587741\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid8587741\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 8.}}}{\insrsid16218944\charrsid3826080 

\par }\pard \qc \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid9843883 {\insrsid8587741\charrsid3826080 Greece}{\insrsid9843883\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid7367064 {\insrsid10109595\charrsid3826080 \tab While Egypt began to decline,}{\insrsid9843883\charrsid3826080  Greek culture rose and s}{
\insrsid7274526\charrsid3826080 pread}{\insrsid13317462\charrsid3826080 .  As would almost all of the Western peoples to follow}{\insrsid9843883\charrsid3826080 , the}{\insrsid13317462\charrsid3826080 se}{\insrsid9843883\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid13317462\charrsid3826080 ancient }{\insrsid9843883\charrsid3826080 Greeks }{\insrsid5663820\charrsid3826080 had a tumultuous}{\insrsid13317462\charrsid3826080  relationship with lipstick}{\insrsid5663820\charrsid3826080 .  A}{
\insrsid7367064\charrsid3826080 ncient Greece}{\insrsid5663820\charrsid3826080 , indeed,}{\insrsid7367064\charrsid3826080  p}{\insrsid5663820\charrsid3826080 rovides a case study }{\insrsid10037324\charrsid3826080 of several social and legal}{
\insrsid5663820\charrsid3826080  patterns}{\insrsid7367064\charrsid3826080  in lipstick\rquote s}{\insrsid5663820\charrsid3826080  history}{\insrsid10037324\charrsid3826080 .  The social}{\insrsid13502184\charrsid3826080  patterns}{
\insrsid5791544\charrsid3826080  include: }{\insrsid7367064\charrsid3826080 lipstick\rquote s }{\insrsid10037324\charrsid3826080 shifting }{\insrsid16733109\charrsid3826080 cultural signification}{\insrsid7289306\charrsid3826080  between}{
\insrsid16733109\charrsid3826080  social status}{\insrsid7289306\charrsid3826080  and}{\insrsid7367064\charrsid3826080  femininity, authorities\rquote  backlash}{\insrsid7289306\charrsid3826080  against}{\insrsid16733109\charrsid3826080 
 previous rampant reliance on}{\insrsid7289306\charrsid3826080  lipstick\rquote s artificial beauty}{\insrsid7367064\charrsid3826080 , and a lipstick revival}{\insrsid7289306\charrsid3826080  in }{\insrsid5791544\charrsid3826080 spite of this leadership}{
\insrsid7289306\charrsid3826080  disfavor.}{\insrsid16733109\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7289306\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid15152988\charrsid3826080 Early in the Greek empire}{\insrsid7289306\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid4397357\charrsid3826080 
most women eschewed all facial makeup, although they did rely on elaborate hair dyes and fake hair}{\insrsid7289306\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid4397357\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 38-40.}}}{\insrsid7289306\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid15546076\charrsid3826080 Lip paint}{
\insrsid15152988\charrsid3826080  became }{\insrsid12066902\charrsid3826080 largely }{\insrsid15152988\charrsid3826080 the domain of prostitutes, who}{\insrsid15546076\charrsid3826080 se red lip color}{\insrsid12066902\charrsid3826080 
 involved both such standard materials as}{\insrsid15152988\charrsid3826080  red }{\insrsid12066902\charrsid3826080 dye and wine and such extraordinary ingredients as }{\insrsid15152988\charrsid3826080 sheep sweat, human saliva, and crocodile excr}{
\insrsid12066902\charrsid3826080 ement}{\insrsid15152988\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid12066902\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 8.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 38 (prostitutes, known as }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 hetaerae}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , \'93wore lavish makeup as a mark of their trade\'94).}}}{
\insrsid13194855\charrsid3826080   It was in this context}{\insrsid12066902\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid13194855\charrsid3826080 of lipstick signaling prostitution }{\insrsid3491708\charrsid3826080 that}{\insrsid12066902\charrsid3826080  the first know}{
\insrsid8593359\charrsid3826080 n }{\insrsid5666635\charrsid3826080 formal }{\insrsid8593359\charrsid3826080 regulation of lipstick arose.  }{\insrsid10037324\charrsid3826080 In }{\insrsid7274526\charrsid3826080 what would become a prominent }{
\insrsid10037324\charrsid3826080 pattern}{\insrsid7274526\charrsid3826080  in lipstick regulation}{\insrsid10037324\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid5666635\charrsid3826080 this }{\insrsid7274526\charrsid3826080 first lipstick law}{
\insrsid10037324\charrsid3826080  focused on lipstick\rquote s potential deception of men }{\insrsid7274526\charrsid3826080 and underm}{\insrsid6907974\charrsid3826080 ining of class divides}{\insrsid7274526\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid10037324\charrsid3826080 rather than }{\insrsid6907974\charrsid3826080 on }{\insrsid10037324\charrsid3826080 its safety for women.  }{\insrsid8593359\charrsid3826080 U}{\insrsid4523025\charrsid3826080 nder Greek law, prostitutes who appeared}{
\insrsid13194855\charrsid3826080  in public either at the wrong hours or w}{\insrsid3948330\charrsid3826080 ithout their designated lip paint}{\insrsid13194855\charrsid3826080  and other makeup}{\insrsid4523025\charrsid3826080  could be punished for}{
\insrsid13194855\charrsid3826080  improperly posing as ladies.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5384711\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 9.}}}{\insrsid7677210\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid12927515\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid12479243 {\insrsid12927515\charrsid3826080 Greece\rquote s}{\insrsid6384611\charrsid3826080  neighboring }{\insrsid9532737\charrsid3826080 
Minoans on}{\insrsid6384611\charrsid3826080  Crete and}{\insrsid7677210\charrsid3826080  Thera, meanwhile,}{\insrsid6384611\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid10712592\charrsid3826080 seem}{\insrsid8856282\charrsid3826080 ingly}{\insrsid10712592\charrsid3826080 
 retained the}{\insrsid6384611\charrsid3826080  more liberal Middle Ea}{\insrsid10712592\charrsid3826080 stern attitu}{\insrsid11160568\charrsid3826080 de towards lipstick, as evidenced}{\insrsid10712592\charrsid3826080  by wall paintings that \'93
show women with unnaturally red lips.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid10712592\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 1, at 28.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 2, at 39.}}}{\insrsid11160568\charrsid3826080   The Minoans\rquote  \'93Tyrian dye,\'94 a purplish-red pigment produced from a gland in the murex shellfish, not only colored their famed fabrics, but also}{\insrsid12927515\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid11160568\charrsid3826080 their }{\insrsid15546076\charrsid3826080 lip and face paint}{\insrsid6907974\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid12927515\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid11160568\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 28.}}}{\insrsid11160568\charrsid3826080   Whether }{\insrsid9009588\charrsid3826080 
from these more permissive neighbors or from prostitutes\rquote  enticing example}{\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080 , at some point between}{\insrsid5927033\charrsid3826080 700 and}{\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5927033\charrsid3826080 300}{
\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080  B.C.}{\insrsid9009588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid3948330\charrsid3826080  lip color}{\insrsid11160568\charrsid3826080  seeped into }{\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080 Classical Greece\rquote s}{
\insrsid11160568\charrsid3826080  mainstream culture.}{\cs16\super\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  id
}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 34.  If one can trust Plutarch\rquote s account though, then acceptance of lipstick cannot have come to pass until the latter half of this allotted timeframe, at least in Sparta.  For, Plutarch repor
ts that Lycurgus banished all cosmetics from Sparta.  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 41.}}}{
\insrsid5666635\charrsid3826080   During this first of many lipstick revivals}{\insrsid11160568\charrsid3826080 , Gre}{\insrsid9009588\charrsid3826080 ek art began depicting women hand}{\insrsid11160568\charrsid3826080 ing one another cosmetic}{
\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid11160568\charrsid3826080  articles}{\insrsid8856282\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid8856282\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 1, at 34-35.  The artwork does not make clear whether the cosmetics presenters represent friends, slaves, or professional beauticians, only that women assisted one another in their beauty routines.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 34.}}}{\insrsid8856282\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid11160568\charrsid3826080 Gre}{\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080 ek tombs from the period contained covered boxes, }{\insrsid11160568\charrsid3826080 called }{
\i\insrsid11160568\charrsid3826080 pyxides}{\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080 , used for storing cosmetics.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2769904\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 34-35.}}}{\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid2627727\charrsid3826080 Interestingly, as these historical}{\insrsid15546076\charrsid3826080 
 traces suggest, use of lip paint}{\insrsid2627727\charrsid3826080  leapt directly from prostitutes and foreigners to the elite; lower class wor}{\insrsid7677210\charrsid3826080 king women continued to avoid}{\insrsid2627727\charrsid3826080  makeup.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid2627727\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 40.}}}{\insrsid2627727\charrsid3826080 
  Color for the newly acceptable}{\insrsid7677210\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid2627727\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12479243\charrsid3826080 and even }{\insrsid10098949\charrsid3826080 socially }{\insrsid12479243\charrsid3826080 exclusive}{
\insrsid7677210\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid12479243\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid15546076\charrsid3826080 lip paint}{\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080  came from ve}{\insrsid7677210\charrsid3826080 getable substances such as}{
\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080  mulberries and seaweed,}{\cs16\super\insrsid13456658\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 14.}}}{\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080 
 from the roots of an alkanet-like plant known as }{\i\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080 polderos}{\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080 ,}{\cs16\super\insrsid13456658\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 11, at 34.}}}{\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080 
 and from the considerably less safe vermi}{\insrsid3756428\charrsid3826080 l}{\insrsid11291161\charrsid3826080 ion.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2769904\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 3, at 14.  Common vernacular has long used \'93vermilion\'94 as the name for an orange-red mercuric sulfide (HgS) that, like all mercury compounds, is toxic.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Vermilion}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Wikipedia:}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  T}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 he }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 F}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ree }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 E}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ncyclopedia}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  (Feb. 13, 2006), }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 at}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vermilion.}}}{\insrsid4673836\charrsid3826080 

\par }\pard \qc \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid8593359 {\insrsid4673836\charrsid3826080 Rome}{\insrsid16218944\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid14039735 {\insrsid1383820\charrsid3826080 \tab By the time that }{\insrsid10507658\charrsid3826080 Greece fell and the}{\insrsid1383820\charrsid3826080 
 Roman E}{\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080 mpire}{\insrsid10427668\charrsid3826080  got well un}{\insrsid10507658\charrsid3826080 derway, between 150-31}{\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080  B.C}{\insrsid8593359\charrsid3826080 ., lipstick had returned to high
}{\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080  popularity}{\insrsid8593359\charrsid3826080  and low regulation}{\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid11155121\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 It here requires mention that some historians credit Romans\rquote  enthusiasm for lipstick more to the early Britains than to the Greeks.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 41.  The Romans almost certainly imitated the Britains\rquote  use of small bronze mortars and pestles for grinding up the mineral pigments used in cosmetics.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080   Lipstick at this point reverted to demarcating }{\insrsid6907974\charrsid3826080 purely social status, not }{\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080 ge}{
\insrsid15546076\charrsid3826080 nder, with the color of lip paint}{\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080  that men wore generally indicating their social standing and rank.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 8, at 9.  Lipstick as a status indicator resulted from informal social rules rather than formal legal ones though, for once lipstick returned to a male practice, regulations of lipstick vanished.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080   This is not to suggest that women did not }{\insrsid11155121\charrsid3826080 preserve}{\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7825638\charrsid3826080 their}{
\insrsid7677210\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5968900\charrsid3826080 predominance}{\insrsid7677210\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5968900\charrsid3826080 as}{\insrsid15798825\charrsid3826080  lipstick}{\insrsid7677210\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid5968900\charrsid3826080 consumers}{\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080  though.  Empress Poppaea}{\insrsid7825638\charrsid3826080  Sabina}{\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080 , \'93the crazy wife of the crazy emperor Nero,\'94
 retained no less than one-hundred attendants to \'93maintain her looks and keep her lips painted at all times.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080   Indeed, most wealthy Roman women had designated}{\insrsid7677210\charrsid3826080 , specially-}{\insrsid7825638\charrsid3826080 trained}{
\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080  makeup and hairstyling slaves, }{\i\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080 cosmatae}{\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080 , who were overseen by a headmistress of the toilette, the }{\i\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080 ornatrix}{
\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid2695864\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 1, at 38.  Each of these slaves would have a different, specific role in the toilette process.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid7825638\charrsid3826080   Following Poppaea\rquote 
s lead, Roman women tended to use a red or purplish lip paint}{\cs16\super\insrsid14421285\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Some historians believe that this \'93lip paint\'94
 was, literally, just standard paint.  It has come to appear likely that the Romans used essentially the same paint for cosmetic and artistic purposes.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 36-37.}}}{
\insrsid7825638\charrsid3826080  made out of ochre, iron ore, and fucus.}{\cs16\super\insrsid7825638\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 13. }}}{\insrsid7825638\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid11155121\charrsid3826080 
Echoing the Sumerian\rquote s use of lead and the Greek\rquote s reliance on vermilion, this Roman enthusiasm for the mer}{\insrsid8856282\charrsid3826080 curic plant fucus infused }{\insrsid15546076\charrsid3826080 lip paint}{
\insrsid11155121\charrsid3826080  with a potentially deadly poison; those }{\insrsid8856282\charrsid3826080 poor persons }{\insrsid11155121\charrsid3826080 who had to rely on red wine sediments for their lip color likely faired better in the end.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid11155121\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 8, at 9.  Lest this recount of various ill-advised ingredients seem incompatible with the previous guarded endorsement of lipstick\rquote 
s relative safety, it bears note that other cosmetics had even more dangerous and downright bizarre recipes that continued up through much more recent dates.  For example, skin cosmetics have featured concoctions ranging from \'93puppy-do
g-fat wrinkle creams and splashing on one\rquote s own urine in the sixteenth century, to mixtures of pig brain, alligator intestine, and wolf blood in the Middle Ages.\'94  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. at 5.  As late as the eighteenth century, most foundation, used to mask smallpox scars and skin defects, had a white lead-base; thus, face powder not only exacerbated skin problems, but also posed a general health hazard.  G}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 2, at 110-115.  As late as the early 1930s in America, only a few states worried about the lead commonly found in hair dyes and other cosmetics.  M.C. P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 hillips}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , S}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 kin}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  D}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 eep: }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 T}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 he }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 T}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ruth }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 A}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 bout }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 B}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 eauty }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 A}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ids}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  \endash  S}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 afe and }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 H}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 armful}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 231-32 (1934).}}}{\insrsid11155121\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid14039735\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \qc \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid8593359 {\insrsid11884951\charrsid3826080 Western Europe
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid4458862 {\insrsid13188536\charrsid3826080 \tab Eventually, as}{\insrsid11469436\charrsid3826080  the Roman Empire}{\insrsid13188536\charrsid3826080 
 crumbled}{\insrsid11469436\charrsid3826080 , Western Europe }{\insrsid13188536\charrsid3826080 descended}{\insrsid11469436\charrsid3826080  into the Dark Ages}{\insrsid13188536\charrsid3826080 ,}{\cs16\super\insrsid13188536\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Historians more properly term the \'93Dark Ages\'94 the \'93European Early Middle Ages,\'94 but here propriety will be eschewed in favor of comprehensibility for the average educated reader.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Theodore E. Mommsen, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Petrarch\rquote s Conception of the \lquote Dark Ages,\rquote }{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  17 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Speculum}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  226 (1942) (discussing the origins of and historical period denoted by the phrase \'93the Dark Ages\'94).}}}{
\insrsid13188536\charrsid3826080  a \'93shadowy and uncertain time\'94 from which few records of everyday life survive}{\insrsid11469436\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid13188536\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 55.}}}{\insrsid13072575\charrsid3826080   Most information on lipstick}{
\insrsid13188536\charrsid3826080  from this period comes from the writings of churchmen, who objected to its usag}{\insrsid10757114\charrsid3826080 e, although to only moderate}{\insrsid13188536\charrsid3826080  effect.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid13188536\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 65.}}}{\insrsid13188536\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid10757114\charrsid3826080 As Christianity and bad weather concomitantly}{\insrsid279010\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid10757114\charrsid3826080 took hold, \'93
there was a gradual but distinct shift in favor of a rather plainer, and possibly slightly less washed existence.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid10757114\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 58.}}}{\insrsid279010\charrsid3826080   The Roman Empire\rquote 
s fall rendered trade routes precario}{\insrsid3820002\charrsid3826080 us, and so also }{\insrsid7677210\charrsid3826080 likely}{\insrsid3820002\charrsid3826080  hurt }{\insrsid279010\charrsid3826080 cosmetics }{\insrsid3820002\charrsid3826080 commerce}{
\insrsid279010\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid279010\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 55.}}}{\insrsid279010\charrsid3826080   However, }{\insrsid15803287\charrsid3826080 scraps}{
\insrsid4789517\charrsid3826080  of }{\insrsid15218830\charrsid3826080 documentation from throughout this }{\insrsid7677210\charrsid3826080 five-hundred-year }{\insrsid15218830\charrsid3826080 period}{\insrsid10637868\charrsid3826080 , as well as}{
\insrsid4789517\charrsid3826080  the continued complaining of religious writers, make}{\insrsid15218830\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid687385\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid4789517\charrsid3826080 clear }{\insrsid10637868\charrsid3826080 that lipstick }{
\insrsid15218830\charrsid3826080 remai}{\insrsid687385\charrsid3826080 ned at least relatively in use}{\insrsid6907974\charrsid3826080  by females and entirely free from }{\insrsid1004603\charrsid3826080 regulation}{\insrsid6907974\charrsid3826080  of law
}{\insrsid4789517\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid10962674\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  At this point it requires reemphasis that this commentary applies only to the Western world.  Lip paint use by both men and women actually remained fairly const
ant in Asia and Africa during the Western world\rquote s Dark Ages, and so a significant amount of the most interesting information on lipstick from this time period comes from those continents.  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 88-90 (discussing lip paint\rquote s use in Asia and Africa).  As no work short of a book could cover the entirety of lipstick\rquote 
s history across all of time and space though, such interesting information must unfortunately fall outside the scope of this paper.}}}{\insrsid10637868\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid14112939\charrsid3826080 I}{\insrsid15810066\charrsid3826080 n Spain ar}{
\insrsid6907974\charrsid3826080 ound 500 A.D., the lower classes}{\insrsid15810066\charrsid3826080  fre}{\insrsid15798825\charrsid3826080 quently wore lip paint}{\insrsid15810066\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid15810066\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 78.}}}{\insrsid15810066\charrsid3826080   A couple of centuries later in Germany and Britain}{\insrsid14112939\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid15810066\charrsid3826080 
orange lip color became widely popular.}{\cs16\super\insrsid15810066\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid3820002\charrsid3826080   Beginning in }{\insrsid14112939\charrsid3826080 
the 800s A.D.}{\insrsid3820002\charrsid3826080 , crystal cosmetics containers}{\insrsid14112939\charrsid3826080  with jeweled lids}{\insrsid3820002\charrsid3826080  trickled out from Constantinople}{\insrsid12126904\charrsid3826080 
, thus suggesting that upper class enthusiasm for cosmetics}{\insrsid6907974\charrsid3826080 , likely including lip paints,}{\insrsid12126904\charrsid3826080  had returned}{\insrsid3820002\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid10962674\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 56.}}}{\insrsid12126904\charrsid3826080 
  Several Irish texts refer to red lips achieved with the help of herbal dyes.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12126904\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 65.}}}{
\insrsid12126904\charrsid3826080   Therefore, }{\insrsid13072575\charrsid3826080 although interested historians generally}{\insrsid12126904\charrsid3826080  identi}{\insrsid13072575\charrsid3826080 fy the Dark A}{\insrsid12126904\charrsid3826080 
ges with a declin}{\insrsid13072575\charrsid3826080 e in lipstick use,}{\insrsid15212670\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid6907974\charrsid3826080 some }{\insrsid13072575\charrsid3826080 lip painting evidently did occur}{\insrsid12126904\charrsid3826080 
 throughout most countries}{\insrsid7677210\charrsid3826080  during the }{\insrsid12126904\charrsid3826080 period.}{\cs16\super\insrsid13072575\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Along with the abovementioned examples of lip paint use, men often painted their lips blue when charging into battle.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 10.  Since people have traditionally conceptualized such war paint as distinct from lipstick though, lip painting done for battle purposes will not receive further attention herein.  }}}{
\insrsid4458862\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid12917688 {\insrsid9130159\charrsid3826080 Not until the}{\insrsid2296603\charrsid3826080  start of the}{\insrsid2893482\charrsid3826080  Middle Ag
}{\insrsid4458862\charrsid3826080 es}{\insrsid9130159\charrsid3826080 ,}{\cs16\super\insrsid4458862\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Rondo Cameron, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Europe\rquote s Second Logistic}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 12 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Comp. Stud. in Soc\rquote y & Hist.}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  452, 456 (1970) (review article) (referencing the period around the thirteenth through fifteenth centuries as the \'93High Middle Ages\'94).}}}{\insrsid9130159\charrsid3826080  actually, did}{
\insrsid4458862\charrsid3826080  religious criticism of lipstick finally }{\insrsid6844291\charrsid3826080 gain}{\insrsid2296603\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid6844291\charrsid3826080 widespread hold}{\insrsid4458862\charrsid3826080  in s}{
\insrsid6844291\charrsid3826080 ome countries,}{\insrsid2296603\charrsid3826080  most notably}{\insrsid4458862\charrsid3826080  England}{\insrsid2296603\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid3233511\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Generalizing about lip paint usage during this period actually proves very tricky, as usage varied so much by country and century.  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 77.  For more or less the most part though, lip paint fell into disfavor and become the domain of prostitutes.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{
\insrsid2296603\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid12917688\charrsid3826080 In England}{\insrsid6844291\charrsid3826080 , \'93a}{\insrsid4458862\charrsid3826080  woman who wore make-up was seen as an incarnation of Satan,\'94 because }{
\insrsid2296603\charrsid3826080 such alteration of }{\insrsid4458862\charrsid3826080 her }{\insrsid2296603\charrsid3826080 given }{\insrsid4458862\charrsid3826080 face challenged God}{\insrsid16330820\charrsid3826080  and his workmanship}{
\insrsid4458862\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid2296603\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 8, at 10.  \'93This was the era of Lipstick as Satan.\'94 }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 11.}}}{\insrsid2296603\charrsid3826080   While this interdiction against lipstick mostly took the form of social r
ather than legal}{\insrsid6844291\charrsid3826080  sanctions}{\insrsid2296603\charrsid3826080 , lip tattooing was outright outlawed.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2296603\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 178.}}}{\insrsid2296603\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5588224\charrsid3826080 Even in England}{\insrsid3233511\charrsid3826080 , however}{\insrsid5588224\charrsid3826080 , the}{
\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080  social }{\insrsid10120396\charrsid3826080 proscriptions}{\insrsid2296603\charrsid3826080  on lip coloring}{\insrsid6844291\charrsid3826080  had their}{\insrsid2296603\charrsid3826080  exceptions.}{
\insrsid6844291\charrsid3826080   Applying a lily or }{\insrsid5588224\charrsid3826080 rose tint to one\rquote s lips remained permissible based on those colors\rquote }{\insrsid6844291\charrsid3826080  connotatio}{\insrsid6174310\charrsid3826080 n with}{
\insrsid5588224\charrsid3826080  purity}{\insrsid6844291\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid6844291\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 11.}}}{
\insrsid6844291\charrsid3826080   Th}{\insrsid7805633\charrsid3826080 us, many women would fashion}{\insrsid5588224\charrsid3826080  rose}{\insrsid15798825\charrsid3826080  lip rouge}{\insrsid6844291\charrsid3826080  of sheep fat and mashed up red roots.}
{\cs16\super\insrsid6844291\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid10563774\charrsid3826080   Moreover}{\insrsid6031249\charrsid3826080 , other countries}{\insrsid12346881\charrsid3826080 
 never so fully }{\insrsid6174310\charrsid3826080 accepted}{\insrsid5588224\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid6174310\charrsid3826080 the idea the piety }{\insrsid10120396\charrsid3826080 prohibited}{\insrsid6174310\charrsid3826080  lipstick}{
\insrsid6844291\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid6031249\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5588224\charrsid3826080  During the 1200\rquote s A.D. in present-day Italy}{\insrsid15798825\charrsid3826080 , lipstick}{\insrsid5588224\charrsid3826080  remained a
n important tool for social }{\insrsid16330820\charrsid3826080 demarcation, with high society lad}{\insrsid15798825\charrsid3826080 ies wearing bright pink lip rouge}{\insrsid16330820\charrsid3826080  and lower class women wearing}{
\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080  earthy red lip }{\insrsid15798825\charrsid3826080 rouge}{\insrsid5588224\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid6031249\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 14.}
}}{\insrsid12917688\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid16330820\charrsid3826080 Then, when}{\insrsid6174310\charrsid3826080  the Crusa}{\insrsid16330820\charrsid3826080 des reintroduced}{\insrsid10120396\charrsid3826080  Western Europe to the extensive}{
\insrsid6174310\charrsid3826080  Middle Eastern use of c}{\insrsid10120396\charrsid3826080 osmetics, lipstick acquired a }{\insrsid6174310\charrsid3826080 slightly wicked allure.}{\cs16\super\insrsid6174310\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 71.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 60-66.}}}{
\insrsid10120396\charrsid3826080   By the 1300s A.D., the rich had alchemists create their }{\insrsid15798825\charrsid3826080 lip rouge}{\insrsid5259578\charrsid3826080  and apply it while doing incantations.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5259578\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 121.}}}{\insrsid5259578\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid7805633\charrsid3826080 
Those with less money would e}{\insrsid15798825\charrsid3826080 ither concoct their own lip rouge}{\insrsid7805633\charrsid3826080  or try to buy it from itinerant merchants before the merchants got caught and jailed for witchcraft.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid7805633\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 120.}}}{\insrsid6174310\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid4458862 {\insrsid2847222\charrsid3826080 \tab Lipstick\rquote s paradoxical standing as both }{\insrsid3613749\charrsid3826080 a}{
\insrsid2847222\charrsid3826080  popular and shunned}{\insrsid3613749\charrsid3826080  item}{\insrsid6514154\charrsid3826080  fully developed in}{\insrsid2847222\charrsid3826080  the Renaissance period.}{\insrsid3613749\charrsid3826080 
  Courtesans of England, France, Venice, and Milan, whose social position presumably rendered them immune to}{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080  such confliction, all used lip rouge}{\insrsid3613749\charrsid3826080  with abandon.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid3613749\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 75.}}}{\insrsid3613749\charrsid3826080 
  In England, both the women and men of}{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080  Edward IV\rquote s court wore lip rouge}{\insrsid3613749\charrsid3826080  as well.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3613749\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 74.}}}{\insrsid3613749\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9507962\charrsid3826080 The k}{\insrsid16663522\charrsid3826080 ing himself christened a few}{\insrsid1186028\charrsid3826080 
 official}{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080  lip rouges}{\insrsid8591635\charrsid3826080 , such as}{\insrsid1186028\charrsid3826080  \'93Raw Flesh.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid1186028\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 112.  The king\rquote s chosen name fit in nicely with other fashio
nable lip rouge appellations, which included: \'93Beggar\rquote s Grey,\'94 \'93Rat,\'94 \'93Horseflesh,\'94 \'93Soppes-in-Wine,\'94 \'93Puke,\'94 \'93Sad,\'94 \'93Blod,\'94 \'93Plunket,\'94 and \'93Sheep.\'94  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 111-12.}}}{\insrsid9507962\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid3613749\charrsid3826080 Howev}{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080 er, peddlers selling lip rouge}{\insrsid3822191\charrsid3826080 
 at rural fairs, and usually playing on crowds\rquote  superstition}{\insrsid5060653\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid6639967\charrsid3826080  to claim that }{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080 the lip rouge}{\insrsid16663522\charrsid3826080 s}{
\insrsid5060653\charrsid3826080  possess}{\insrsid16663522\charrsid3826080 ed}{\insrsid5060653\charrsid3826080  protective }{\insrsid3822191\charrsid3826080 power, still risked hanging as sorcerers.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3822191\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 121.}}}{\insrsid3822191\charrsid3826080   A}{\insrsid3613749\charrsid3826080 cross the Channel in France, }{\insrsid16663522\charrsid3826080 upper-}{
\insrsid9507962\charrsid3826080 class women mostly left lipstick to \lquote the other sort of woman.\rquote }{\cs16\super\insrsid9507962\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 79.}}}{\insrsid9507962\charrsid3826080   While, in Italy, ladies continued to wear }{
\insrsid5060653\charrsid3826080 lip rouge, but with subtlety born of }{\insrsid9507962\charrsid3826080 church pressure.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9507962\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 95.  The Italians also simply did not consider lip color as important as whitening face powders during this time.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 97.}}}{\insrsid3822191\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5968900\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \qc \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid11106983 {\insrsid6165074\charrsid3826080 
\par }{\insrsid4290341\charrsid3826080 England
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid16458625 {\i\insrsid16458625\charrsid3826080 1500s
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid4458862 {\insrsid5249380\charrsid3826080 \tab This simul}{\insrsid3477353\charrsid3826080 t}{\insrsid5249380\charrsid3826080 a}{
\insrsid3477353\charrsid3826080 neously widespread criticism and widespread use of }{\insrsid6773228\charrsid3826080 lipstick}{\insrsid14883017\charrsid3826080  cont}{\insrsid3477353\charrsid3826080 inued }{\insrsid5249380\charrsid3826080 apace in the }{
\insrsid3477353\charrsid3826080 1500s A.D.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5602555\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Significant portions of the Continent experienced much less disquiet over lipstick than did England.  For example, Italy wholeheartedly accepted lip rouge, serving a
s a trendsetter for neighboring countries.  G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 2, at 74.  France too seems to have decided lip rouge entirely appropriate, since, in Paris, even the nuns wore it.  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}
{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 14.}}}{\insrsid5249380\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid7094858\charrsid3826080 England, }{\insrsid12917688\charrsid3826080 which grew
 increasingly powerful}{\insrsid3427307\charrsid3826080  th}{\insrsid6165074\charrsid3826080 roughout the century}{\insrsid3427307\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid7296988\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12917688\charrsid3826080 embraced }{
\insrsid7296988\charrsid3826080 lipstick }{\insrsid7094858\charrsid3826080 on the eve of Queen Elizabeth I\rquote s coronation.}{\cs16\super\insrsid7094858\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 74.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Paula Boock}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 On Make-up and Makeover }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 29-30 (2003) (detailing the many ways in which \'93Elizabeth\rquote 
s vanity created a national culture of beauty,\'94 from increased lip rouge usage to proliferation of mirrors).}}}{\insrsid7094858\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7296988\charrsid3826080  A}{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080  lip rouge}{
\insrsid7296988\charrsid3826080  devotee}{\insrsid7094858\charrsid3826080 , Elizabeth usually made her own crimson color with a combination of cochineal, gum Arabic, egg whites, and fig milk.}{\cs16\super\insrsid7094858\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 3, at 14.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 179 (describing Queen Elizabeth\rquote s enjoyment of lipstick).}}}{\insrsid10708695\charrsid3826080   Elizabeth}{\insrsid2586753\charrsid3826080  or one of her close associates}{\insrsid7296988\charrsid3826080 
 also appears to have invented the}{\insrsid14697111\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7296988\charrsid3826080 lip pencil, which either she or her servants made by mixing ground}{\insrsid10708695\charrsid3826080  alabaster or plaster of Paris}{
\insrsid14697111\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid10708695\charrsid3826080 with a coloring ingredient}{\insrsid7296988\charrsid3826080 , rolling the resultant paste into a crayon shape, and drying it in the sun}{\insrsid10708695\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid10708695\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 11, at 34.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 76 (describing Queen Elizabeth\rquote 
s lip pencil).}}}{\insrsid7296988\charrsid3826080   Most court ladies imitated the queen in }{\insrsid9919000\charrsid3826080 boldly }{\insrsid7296988\charrsid3826080 wearing}{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080  lip rouge}{\insrsid9919000\charrsid3826080 
, but the majority of women proceeded with more caution.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9919000\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 91.}}}{\insrsid9919000\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid3547784\charrsid3826080 
On one hand, the English loved lipstick to the point that it not infrequently served as a cash substitute.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3547784\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 12.}}}{\insrsid11426229\charrsid3826080   Part of this lipstick }{
\insrsid8792673\charrsid3826080 craze}{\insrsid11426229\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid8792673\charrsid3826080 is }{\insrsid11426229\charrsid3826080 doubtless}{\insrsid8792673\charrsid3826080  attributable}{\insrsid11426229\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid8792673\charrsid3826080 to }{\insrsid11426229\charrsid3826080 the country\rquote s }{\insrsid8792673\charrsid3826080 sharp }{\insrsid11426229\charrsid3826080 rise in wealth and the Renaissance zeitgeist of \'93
rediscovery of life, of beauty, form, and colour}{\insrsid8792673\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid11426229\charrsid3826080 \'94}{\insrsid8792673\charrsid3826080  which factors scholars credit with stimulating cosmetics use generally.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid8792673\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Neville Williams}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Powder and Paint: A History of the Englishwoman\rquote s Toilet Elizabeth I 
\endash  Elizabeth II}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  25-26 (1957).  }}}{\insrsid11426229\charrsid3826080   A substantial p}{\insrsid3547784\charrsid3826080 art of lipstick\rquote s popularity }{\insrsid11426229\charrsid3826080 though}{
\insrsid8792673\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid11426229\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3547784\charrsid3826080 came from the belief that it could work magic, possibly even ward off death.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3547784\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .  In fact, street corner cosmetics vendors were commonly considered magicians.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{
\insrsid10118766\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid11559024\charrsid3826080 Modern minds might find this faith in lipstick\rquote s health benefits ironic given that ceruse served as a main ingredient in most lip rouges and salves of the period, but few }{
\insrsid2586753\charrsid3826080 Elizabethans questioned their lip rouge}{\insrsid11559024\charrsid3826080 \rquote s power.}{\cs16\super\insrsid11559024\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 15.  Ceruse, essentially the same thing as the ancient Sumerians\rquote  white lead, is \'93a carbonate of lead made by exposing plates of that metal to the vapour of vinegar.\'94
  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid11559024\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid10118766\charrsid3826080 The queen herself credited lipstick with}{\insrsid3547784\charrsid3826080  lifesaving powers, and so, whe}
{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080 n she fell ill, applied lip rouge}{\insrsid3547784\charrsid3826080  increasingly heavily.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3547784\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 12}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid12917688\charrsid3826080 
  By her death, Elizabeth had on}{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080  nearly a half-inch of lip rouge}{\insrsid3547784\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid3547784\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid2586753\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid2586753 {\insrsid10118766\charrsid3826080 On }{\insrsid3547784\charrsid3826080 the}{\insrsid10118766\charrsid3826080 
 other hand, however, this belief in lipstick\rquote s magical force caused the cosmetic to provoke the wrath of church and }{\insrsid2586753\charrsid3826080 also }{\insrsid10118766\charrsid3826080 state}{\insrsid3547784\charrsid3826080 .}{
\insrsid394253\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid3427307\charrsid3826080 Pictures of devils pu}{\insrsid15741708\charrsid3826080 tting lipstick on women appeared}{\insrsid3427307\charrsid3826080  often,}{\cs16\super\insrsid3427307\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 50.}}}{\insrsid3427307\charrsid3826080  and women frequently had to address their lipstick use at confession.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3427307\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 87.}}}{\insrsid3427307\charrsid3826080 
  One prominent text declared cosmetics usage a mortal sin unless done \'93to remedy severe disfigurement or so as to be not looked down upon by [one\rquote s] husband.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid3427307\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid3427307\charrsid3826080   Such church disapproval }{\insrsid949503\charrsid3826080 al}{\insrsid15741708\charrsid3826080 one might not have produced tremendous}{
\insrsid949503\charrsid3826080  result}{\insrsid3427307\charrsid3826080 .  As one hi}{\insrsid13392166\charrsid3826080 storian summarizes}{\insrsid3427307\charrsid3826080  the situation: \'93
Despite all of the criticism from men, be they moralists, poets, or husbands, more and more women painted, and their painting was at least tolerated by the public.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid3427307\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 5, at 110.  The social and religious censure had so little effect that men too occasionally wore makeup, perhaps following the lead of France\rquote s Henry III.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 117-19.}}
}{\insrsid949503\charrsid3826080   When the law stepped in}{\insrsid16126666\charrsid3826080  though}{\insrsid15741708\charrsid3826080 , with the first formal}{\insrsid949503\charrsid3826080  lipstick}{\insrsid15741708\charrsid3826080 
 regulation since Ancient Greece}{\insrsid949503\charrsid3826080 , women of th}{\insrsid15741708\charrsid3826080 e lower classes had to take care.  }{\insrsid11475413\charrsid3826080 Parliament passed a law declaring}{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080 
 the use makeup to deceive }{\insrsid15741708\charrsid3826080 an }{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080 Englishman into marriage}{\insrsid15741708\charrsid3826080  punishable as witchcraft.}{\cs16\super\insrsid15741708\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 96.  Some historians also report that 
mere wearing of lip rouge by lower-class women provided adequate cause for arrest.  It remains unclear though whether such writers are overstating the previously referenced witchcraft laws or referring to some other less known rule or practice.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 12.}}}{\insrsid1115306\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid16663522\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid13186825 {\i\insrsid16458625\charrsid3826080 1600s
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid15805264 {\insrsid16207018\charrsid3826080 The 1600s A.D. presented more of the}{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080  same:}{
\insrsid16207018\charrsid3826080  a continued siege }{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080 on lipstick from clergy,}{\insrsid16207018\charrsid3826080  ethicists}{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080 , and occasionally lawmakers,}{\insrsid16207018\charrsid3826080 
 and a continued love affair with li}{\insrsid1004603\charrsid3826080 pstick by the }{\insrsid14496259\charrsid3826080 English population}{\insrsid16207018\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid16207018\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Religious and moral pundits continued to view cosmetics \'93as cheating, as altering God\rquote s most precious gift.\'94  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski
}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 16.  By and large, those in the provinces listened to these critiques and
 avoided makeup, while those in London and a few of the larger towns paid no heed to such complaints and painted away. }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Williams}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 65, at 5-6.}}}{\insrsid6514154\charrsid3826080   During James I\rquote s reign in the ear}{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080 ly part of the century, lip rouge}{\insrsid6514154\charrsid3826080  remained evide
nt but relatively discrete among both upper and lower classes.}{\cs16\super\insrsid6514154\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 121.}}}{\insrsid6514154\charrsid3826080   As so often before, the classes wore different }{\insrsid12917688\charrsid3826080 colors of lipstick.  T}{
\insrsid6514154\charrsid3826080 his time }{\insrsid12917688\charrsid3826080 though, }{\insrsid6514154\charrsid3826080 the color distinction was }{\insrsid5968900\charrsid3826080 principally}{\insrsid6514154\charrsid3826080 
, if not solely, based on cost of ingredients.  The upper class indulged in a bright cherry red while the lower class stuck with the cheaper ochre red.}{\cs16\super\insrsid6514154\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 127.  Both classes painted on the same lip shape though, a lower lip significantly fuller than the upper.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .
}}}{\insrsid16461959\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid15221938\charrsid3826080 It warrants note that the upper c}{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080 lass also enjoyed safer lip rouge}{\insrsid15221938\charrsid3826080  made with a base of \'94bear\rquote 
s grease,\'94 melted down animal fat imported from France, while the lower }{\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080 class continued wearing lip rouge}{\insrsid15221938\charrsid3826080  made of the much cheaper ceruse.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid10162867\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Williams}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, note 65, at 16.  Some prominent scientists, such as Royal Society member Sir Robert Moray, had begun to publicly note the dizziness, headaches, and blindness that plagued the workmen who produced ceruse, but the substance\rquote 
s toxicity remained far from common knowledge. }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 15-16.}}}{\insrsid15221938\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid16461959\charrsid3826080 Even male cour}{\insrsid9853280\charrsid3826080 t}{
\insrsid11106983\charrsid3826080 iers employed lip rouge}{\insrsid16461959\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid9853280\charrsid3826080 but, because lipstick remained very much identified with femininity}{\insrsid16461959\charrsid3826080 , they }{
\insrsid9853280\charrsid3826080 also tried to disguise this practice}{\insrsid16461959\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid16461959\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 127-28.  Historians have plausibly argued that the probably homosexual James I\rquote 
s own reputation of effeminacy encouraged lip rouge use.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  e.g}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . }{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 89 (writing that: \'93undoubtably, the king\rquote 
s homosexual reputation encouraged effeminacy at court.  It is certain that James I\rquote s favorites used more make-up than the most flamboyant of Elizabethan fops.\'94).}}}{\insrsid9853280\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid13186825\charrsid3826080 
This female discretion and male secrecy vanished upon the establishment of Charles II\rquote s court.  Ladies painted freely, favoring full red lips modeled after previous years\rquote  theatrical makeup.}{\cs16\super\insrsid13186825\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  
note 5, at 149-162.  During this period, the acknowledged point of bothering to wear lip rouge was to garner attention.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 13.}}}{\insrsid13186825\charrsid3826080   Gentlemen also openl}{\insrsid11475413\charrsid3826080 y began wearing lip r}{\insrsid4804447\charrsid3826080 ouge}{\insrsid399339\charrsid3826080 , as the cosmetic
\rquote s}{\insrsid13186825\charrsid3826080  signaling of femininity and stigma of impropriety had much faded.}{\cs16\super\insrsid13186825\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 164.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 12 (more strongly asserting that \'93all respectable men wore lipstick\'94).}}}{
\insrsid3416153\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid15805264\charrsid3826080 Since}{\insrsid11475413\charrsid3826080  lip and check rouge had yet to include fixatives, this rampant use proved quite messy.}{\cs16\super\insrsid15805264\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Williams}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 65, at 17-18.}}}{\insrsid11475413\charrsid3826080   
}{\insrsid15805264\charrsid3826080 The rampant use, levels of rouge and powder }{\insrsid5138811\charrsid3826080 unseen for several hundred years prior,}{\insrsid399339\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid15805264\charrsid3826080 also prompted }{
\insrsid399339\charrsid3826080 Parliament }{\insrsid15805264\charrsid3826080 to consider}{\insrsid399339\charrsid3826080  ta}{\insrsid7540262\charrsid3826080 king action.  A bill introduced}{\insrsid399339\charrsid3826080  to Parliament in 1650, \'93
called for the suppression of \lquote the vice of painting, wearing black patches, and the immodest dress of women.\rquote  \'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid5138811\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 101.}}}{\insrsid5138811\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid6778726\charrsid3826080 
The bill ultimately did not pass, }{\insrsid15805264\charrsid3826080 however, due to a majority considering}{\insrsid6778726\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid15805264\charrsid3826080 it impracticable}{\insrsid5138811\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid15805264\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid5138811\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid13186825\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid13186825 {\i\insrsid16458625\charrsid3826080 1700s
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid16458625 {\insrsid9583710\charrsid3826080 Although Parliament\rquote s efforts at ridding the public }{\insrsid4010616\charrsid3826080 
of lipstick failed in the short }{\insrsid9583710\charrsid3826080 term, England did }{\insrsid5968900\charrsid3826080 veer away from lipstick}{\insrsid4010616\charrsid3826080  in the long }{\insrsid9583710\charrsid3826080 run.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid4854114\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 185 (reporting that young English women used little lipstick in the 1700s, although they would still use lipstick upon reaching older age).  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 8, at 80 (reporting that 1700s penalties for lipstick use successfully deterred women from wearing it).  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 But see.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Williams}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , note 65, at 56-66 (contending that lip rouge use, even by teenagers, continued with more subtlety but no secrecy in the 1700s).}}}{
\insrsid9583710\charrsid3826080   By the 17}{\insrsid3673130\charrsid3826080 00s, wearing lipstick had returned to a}{\insrsid9583710\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3673130\charrsid3826080 surreptitious }{\insrsid9583710\charrsid3826080 practice in England}{
\insrsid6778726\charrsid3826080 , due both to social and to legal penalties}{\insrsid9583710\charrsid3826080 .  While Fr}{\insrsid12590260\charrsid3826080 ench ladies wore blatant makeup}{\cs16\super\insrsid12590260\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Frenchwomen went through approximately two million pots of lip rouge per year in the 1780s.  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 16.  They had some two dozen kinds of lip rouge from which to choose, liquid and dry and in various shades.  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 249.}}}{\insrsid9583710\charrsid3826080  and scorned the natural look as }{
\insrsid809627\charrsid3826080 only for }{\insrsid9583710\charrsid3826080 prostitutes, in England nearly opposite norms arose.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9583710\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 5, at 187.  For the French, cosmetics took on an important social function, with the time and method of cosmetics\rquote  application occurring in a ritualized, public manner.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 114-115 (explaining that: \'93
often the public toilette was a carefully staged replay of the dressing of the hair and applying of make-up to a woman who had already been through the expert hands of her maids beforehand.\'94). }}}{\insrsid9583710\charrsid3826080 
  London prostitutes wore vivid makeup, while young ladies wor}{\insrsid6778726\charrsid3826080 e almost none, increasing lip rouge}{\insrsid12590260\charrsid3826080  usage only upon aging}{\insrsid9583710\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid9583710\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 187.  }}}{\insrsid12590260\charrsid3826080 
  }{\insrsid4290341\charrsid3826080 The ol}{\insrsid6778726\charrsid3826080 der ladies who did wear lip rouge}{\insrsid4290341\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid4010616\charrsid3826080 often}{\insrsid10841791\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid4290341\charrsid3826080 
prepared it themselves}{\insrsid10841791\charrsid3826080  \endash  some of the better homes had \'93still rooms\'94 intended for this purpose \endash  from family or popular recipes.}{\cs16\super\insrsid10841791\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 230-241.}}}{\insrsid3018051\charrsid3826080   One such popular recipe featured white pomatum, wax, ox\rquote s marrow, and alkanet.}{\cs16\super\insrsid7497256\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 234.}}}{\insrsid7497256\charrsid3826080   Another, called for grinding up roses with hog\rquote 
s lard, letting it macerate two days, and then melting and straining the mixture, with an inf}{\insrsid5968900\charrsid3826080 usion of more roses as needed}{\insrsid7497256\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid7497256\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 235.}}}{\insrsid3673130\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid8863793\charrsid3826080 Gold leaf was also suggested as a nice addition to any lip salve.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid8863793\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 260.}}}{\insrsid8863793\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid4010616\charrsid3826080 O}{\insrsid3673130\charrsid3826080 
f course, some women did not bo}{\insrsid4010616\charrsid3826080 ther with such elaborate concoctions}{\insrsid3673130\charrsid3826080 , and simply applied}{\insrsid14248660\charrsid3826080  brandy to their lips until they turned red.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid14248660\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 235.}}}{\insrsid6778726\charrsid3826080   This reserving of lip rouge}{\insrsid809627\charrsid3826080 
 for the older, and so presumably married, women }{\insrsid7933118\charrsid3826080 moved from social convention to severe }{\insrsid809627\charrsid3826080 black letter law in 1770.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4854114\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Perhaps \'93gray letter law\'94
 would more properly describe this slightly mysterious 1770 law.  For, although several authors mentio
n, and even quote the Act, a search through statutes passed by the House of Lords in the 1760-1780 timeframe reveals no such cosmetics legislation.  Historian Neville Williams comments on his lack of luck in locating this Act as well, writing that: \'93
the date of this Act is given by W.A. Poucher\'85 [as well as] by Louis Stanley\'85 [but] I have failed to find the Act in the printed }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Statutes}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 for the sessions of that year; nor has a search of the original Parliament Rolls met with success.\'94  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Williams}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 65, at74 n.54.}}}{\insrsid7933118\charrsid3826080   Rathe}{\insrsid8662047\charrsid3826080 r than merely discouraging}{\insrsid13307177\charrsid3826080  lip rouge}{\insrsid8662047\charrsid3826080  through taxation}{
\insrsid7933118\charrsid3826080 , as done to }{\insrsid8662047\charrsid3826080 hair }{\insrsid7933118\charrsid3826080 powder,}{\cs16\super\insrsid8662047\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. at 86-87 (noting that, beginning in 1795, women who powdered their hair had to take out licenses for a guinea a year, with special terms for fathers who had more than two unmarried daughters and for servants).}}}{\insrsid7933118\charrsid3826080 
 Parliament declared}{\insrsid809627\charrsid3826080  that women who seduced men into matrimony t}{\insrsid7933118\charrsid3826080 hrough use of lip and cheek paints}{\insrsid4854114\charrsid3826080  could }{\insrsid5002857\charrsid3826080 have t}{
\insrsid879766\charrsid3826080 heir marriages annulled as well as}{\insrsid5002857\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid4854114\charrsid3826080 face }{\insrsid809627\charrsid3826080 witchcraft}{\insrsid4854114\charrsid3826080  charges}{
\insrsid809627\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid5465077\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 17.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 245 (writing that English Parliament grew alarmed by makeup, because they feared that it often seduced or betrayed men into matrimony); P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 80 (writing that British women were not
 infrequently arrested for wearing lip rouge as an attempt to trick men into marriage).}}}{\insrsid8863793\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid14764064\charrsid3826080 Specifically, the legislation declared:
\par }\pard \qj \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid285903 {\insrsid14764064\charrsid3826080 
All women of whatever age, rank, profession or degree, whether virgins, maids or widows, that shall, from and after such Act, impose upon, seduce and betray into matrimony any of His Majesty\rquote 
s subjects, by the scents, paints, cosmetic washes, artificial teeth,}{\insrsid879766\charrsid3826080  false hair, Spanish wool, iron}{\insrsid14764064\charrsid3826080 
 stays, hoops, high-heeled shoes or bolstered hips, shall incur the penalty of the law in force against witchcraft and the like misdemeanours and [their] marriage[s], upon conviction, shall become null and void.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid14764064\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Williams}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 65, at 74, quoting }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 W. A. Poucher}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Eve\rquote s Beauty Secrets}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  5 (1926).}}}{\insrsid14764064\charrsid3826080 
\par }{\insrsid285903\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid13186825 {\insrsid879766\charrsid3826080 While this law}{\insrsid14764064\charrsid3826080  intended only to protect}{\insrsid5968900\charrsid3826080 
 men}{\insrsid1266081\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid879766\charrsid3826080  it}{\insrsid5968900\charrsid3826080  also had the fortuitous}{\insrsid5970694\charrsid3826080  consequence of deterring}{\insrsid1266081\charrsid3826080  women from }{
\insrsid5970694\charrsid3826080 the unavoidably public purchasing of shop}{\insrsid879766\charrsid3826080  lip rouges}{\insrsid1266081\charrsid3826080 , which }{\insrsid879766\charrsid3826080 lip rouge}{\insrsid5970694\charrsid3826080 s }{
\insrsid1266081\charrsid3826080 merchants often adulterated with vermilion.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1266081\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 262.  Bath physician Dr. A Fothergill loudly lamented that most cosmetics contained poisons, including \'93carmine, or harmless rouge,\'94
 which was usually prepared with a strong mineral acid (nitrous acid) and often adulterated with vermilion (a preparation of mercury).  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid4010616\charrsid3826080   A}{
\insrsid5970694\charrsid3826080  previous}{\insrsid4010616\charrsid3826080  1724 Act regulating drugs had }{\insrsid5970694\charrsid3826080 increased lipstick safety}{\insrsid4010616\charrsid3826080  in a sim}{\insrsid12524032\charrsid3826080 
ilarly incidental manner.  Said Act }{\insrsid4010616\charrsid3826080 prohibited from London and the surrounding vicinity any }{\insrsid5970694\charrsid3826080 medicine or }{\insrsid4010616\charrsid3826080 preparation containing certain dangerou
s ingredients, some of which dangerous ingred}{\insrsid5970694\charrsid3826080 ients}{\insrsid4010616\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5970694\charrsid3826080 had formerly commonly appeared}{\insrsid4010616\charrsid3826080  in }{\insrsid879766\charrsid3826080 
lip rouge}{\insrsid4010616\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid4010616\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Statute 10 Geo. I, c. 20.  \'93By virtue of this [law], the censors of the College of Physicians, assisted by the wardens of the Apothecaries\rquote 
 Company, could enter any shop, inspect goods and order those which did not come up to their standards to be destroyed.\'94  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Williams}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 65, at 67
-68.  While helpful, this Act did not prevent metallic compounds from remaining in lip rouges through the following century, which compounds led to poisoning, muscle paralysis, and lip color turning black when exposed to the sulphur from coal fires.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 106.}}}{\insrsid14496259\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid875011 {\insrsid1266081\charrsid3826080 \tab Meanwhile, the American colonies}{\insrsid10898227\charrsid3826080 ,}{
\cs16\super\insrsid14104566\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Technically, the American \'93colonies\'94 only existed for the first three-quarters of the century, as they won independence and became \'93former colonies\'94 in 1783.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Charles R. Ritcheson, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 The London Press and the First Decade of American Independence, 1783-1793}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 2 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 J. of Brit. Stud. }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 88 (1963).}}}{\insrsid10898227\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5794382\charrsid3826080 a }{\insrsid10898227\charrsid3826080 
continued thorn in England\rquote s side}{\insrsid5794382\charrsid3826080 , shifted from followi}{\insrsid15803287\charrsid3826080 ng English ambivalence towards }{\insrsid5794382\charrsid3826080 lipstick in the 1600s A.D.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid5794382\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 142.}}}{\insrsid875011\charrsid3826080 
 to emul}{\insrsid5794382\charrsid3826080 ating French obsession with lipstick in the 1700s A.D.}{\cs16\super\insrsid10694044\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Eventually the French Revolution at the end of the century rendered lip rouge unpopular in France, for wearing lip rouge signaled sympathy with the aristocracy and, ergo, provided cause for guillotining.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 68.  Americans continued to enjoy lipstick though, as they had never associated it with monarchy.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid5794382\charrsid3826080 
  American women achieved reddened lips by most means imaginable, from rubbing red snippets of ribbon across their mouths, to carrying around lemons for sucking on throughout the day, to purchasing Spanish Papers.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid5794382\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 13-14.  Spanish Papers were quite literally pieces of paper thickened with a carmine dye that would transfer to one\rquote 
s mouth upon rubbing.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 13.  Less obviously though, \'93Spanish Papers\'94 actually came from China, not Spain.  G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 130.}}}{\insrsid15037534\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid10694044\charrsid3826080 
Bavarian Red Liquor also promised American women red lips, whether rubbed on or drunk.}{\insrsid3547985\charrsid3826080   Even Martha Washington ha}{\insrsid879766\charrsid3826080 d a favorite recipe for lip rouge}{\insrsid3547985\charrsid3826080 
, which involved: wax, hogs\rquote  lard, spermaceti, alkanet root, almond oil, balsam, raisins, and sugar.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3547985\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 182.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 11, at 34 n
.22 (reciting the same recipe as does Pallingston, and further noting that Mrs. Washington euphemistically referred to this mixture as a \'93salve for chapped lips\'94).}}}{\insrsid10898227\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid15209184\charrsid3826080 
Although the American colonies largely rejected England}{\insrsid875011\charrsid3826080 \rquote s attitude towards}{\insrsid15209184\charrsid3826080  lipstick, so}{\insrsid875011\charrsid3826080 me of them did imitate English laws }{
\insrsid15209184\charrsid3826080 protect}{\insrsid875011\charrsid3826080 ing men from }{\insrsid15209184\charrsid3826080 lipstick trickery.  In Pennsylvania, for example, a man in the 1700s could have his marriage annull}{\insrsid15820039\charrsid3826080 
ed if his wife had used lip rouge}{\insrsid15209184\charrsid3826080  or other cosmetics during the couple\rquote s courtship.}{\cs16\super\insrsid15209184\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 17.}
}}{\insrsid1266081\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid10027111 {\i\insrsid1525215\charrsid3826080 
\par }{\i\insrsid16458625\charrsid3826080 1800s
\par }{\insrsid4791793\charrsid3826080 \tab As the Victorian Age }{\insrsid875011\charrsid3826080 dawned, }{\insrsid15490142\charrsid3826080 England\rquote s eighteenth century censure of lipstick swelled }{\insrsid5401973\charrsid3826080 in}{
\insrsid15490142\charrsid3826080 to extreme condemnation of it}{\insrsid875011\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid8726445\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Discussion of the Victorian Era demands one final stressing of this paper\rquote 
s necessarily limited scope.  While lipstick did hit an all-time low in England during the nineteenth century, focusing only on lipstick in England could generate a most misleading image of lipstick\rquote s global status.  For example, 
during the same period in China, lipstick enjoyed a surge in popularity, with Chinese women applying carmine to not only their lips but also to their tongues.  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 311.}}}{\insrsid875011\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5402411\charrsid3826080 Some scholars have suggested that }{\insrsid5393299\charrsid3826080 a propensity for}{
\insrsid11884116\charrsid3826080  view}{\insrsid5393299\charrsid3826080 ing}{\insrsid5402411\charrsid3826080  women as }{\insrsid1849756\charrsid3826080 childlike creatures}{\insrsid11884116\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid1849756\charrsid3826080 
combined with a craze for nature and \lquote natural\rquote  beauty }{\insrsid11884116\charrsid3826080 propelled this horror of makeup}{\insrsid5393299\charrsid3826080 , which represented worldly artifice}{\insrsid11884116\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid5402411\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 131.}}}{\insrsid5402411\charrsid3826080   Others contend that }{\insrsid1849756\charrsid3826080 Victorians}{
\insrsid3943618\charrsid3826080 \rquote }{\insrsid1849756\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid8467125\charrsid3826080 tendency to view}{\insrsid3943618\charrsid3826080  women in commercial terms, with women\rquote s va
lue determined largely by their beauty, prompted}{\insrsid8467125\charrsid3826080  the dislike}{\insrsid9582989\charrsid3826080  of cosmetics; cosmetics deceived}{\insrsid8467125\charrsid3826080  male purchasers into overvaluing wo}{
\insrsid10644007\charrsid3826080 men\rquote s worth, and so represented}{\insrsid8467125\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid10644007\charrsid3826080 a \'93particularly pernicious\'94 form of commercial duplicity}{\insrsid6238205\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid6238205\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080   Kathy Peiss, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 On Beauty and the History of Business, in}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
Beauty and Business: Commerce, Gender, and Culture in Modern America }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 9-10 (Philip Scranton ed., 2001). }}}{\insrsid5402411\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid11884116\charrsid3826080 For whatever reasons though, }{
\insrsid6639967\charrsid3826080 social ban on lip rouge reverberated}{\insrsid14769163\charrsid3826080  with such force as to render the lack of legal r}{\insrsid12137135\charrsid3826080 egulation largely moot}{\insrsid14769163\charrsid3826080 .  }{
\insrsid875011\charrsid3826080 Queen Victoria}{\insrsid216016\charrsid3826080  publicly declared make}{\insrsid875011\charrsid3826080 up \'93impolite,\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid15490142\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 14.}}}{\insrsid1849756\charrsid3826080  and }{\insrsid10027111\charrsid3826080 
makeup}{\insrsid216016\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid15490142\charrsid3826080 became socia}{\insrsid1849756\charrsid3826080 lly unacceptable for all but prostitutes and act}{\insrsid15490142\charrsid3826080 r}{\insrsid1849756\charrsid3826080 e}{
\insrsid15490142\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid1849756\charrsid3826080 ses}{\insrsid15490142\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid15490142\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 18.}}}{\insrsid141960\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9045509\charrsid3826080 Lipstick}{
\insrsid15490142\charrsid3826080 , in particular, remained the least respectable of cosmetics throughout the century.}{\cs16\super\insrsid15490142\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 3, at 20.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 2, at 129 (commenting that, while powder and subtle cheek rouge crept back into use over the course of the century, lip color remained \'93undesirable and vulgar\'94).}}}{\insrsid15490142\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid7752032\charrsid3826080 O}{
\insrsid15490142\charrsid3826080 f course,}{\insrsid14571959\charrsid3826080  with lipstick, \'93going out of fashion simply meant going underground.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid14571959\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 292.  In addition to lo
oking at personal and business records from the era, one can look to the invention of badger hair brushes for applying lip rouge as a fairly clear sign that lip rouge still had a critical mass of customers.  G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 139.}}}{\insrsid14571959\charrsid3826080   Women developed a ra}{\insrsid8726445\charrsid3826080 nge of strategies for dodging }{
\insrsid14571959\charrsid3826080 th}{\insrsid9582989\charrsid3826080 e social prohibition on lip rouge}{\insrsid14571959\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid5402411\charrsid3826080   Many}{\insrsid2432568\charrsid3826080  wom
en turned to non-cosmetic methods, such as }{\insrsid16597068\charrsid3826080 kissing rosy crepe paper}{\cs16\super\insrsid16597068\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 18.}
}}{\insrsid16597068\charrsid3826080  or }{\insrsid2432568\charrsid3826080 biting their lips to attain a red color}{\cs16\super\insrsid2432568\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 383.}}}{\insrsid11873807\charrsid3826080  and doing lip cali}{
\insrsid2432568\charrsid3826080 sthenics to achieve the idealized bee-stung shape.}{\cs16\super\insrsid11873807\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 11, at 35-36 (describing English and also American women\rquote 
s attempt to obtain bee-stung mouth shapes by repeating sequences of words beginning with \'93p,\'94 most popularly \'93peas, prunes, and prisms,\'94 with \'93potatoes\'94 and \'93papa\'94 also sometimes added).}}}{\insrsid5402411\charrsid3826080 
  Many others}{\insrsid15878417\charrsid3826080  turned to }{\insrsid16597068\charrsid3826080 all manner of subterfuge}{\insrsid15878417\charrsid3826080 s.  Lip salves used with the excuse of moistening chapped lips actually \'93
cunningly concealed a touch of carmine.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid15878417\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 2, at 132.}}}{\insrsid9045509\charrsid3826080   Lip rouges}{\insrsid15878417\charrsid3826080  also masqueraded as medicine, with \'93}{\insrsid9045509\charrsid3826080 the medicine makeup quack}{\insrsid15878417\charrsid3826080 
 [finding] a new home on the edge of the medical profession.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid15878417\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 15.}}}{\insrsid15878417\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid16597068\charrsid3826080 Clandestine beauty establishments at which on}{\insrsid9045509\charrsid3826080 
e could buy lip rouge}{\insrsid16597068\charrsid3826080  survived based on discretion; women would arrive veiled, get ushered into individual private rooms, and then smuggle their purchases back home for hiding.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid16597068\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 138.}}}{\insrsid11089846\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid13707766\charrsid3826080 Women also secretly }{\insrsid9045509\charrsid3826080 traded recipes and made lip rouge}{\insrsid13707766\charrsid3826080  with their friends in und}{\insrsid9045509\charrsid3826080 erground lip rouge}{
\insrsid13707766\charrsid3826080  societies.}{\cs16\super\insrsid13707766\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 8, at 15 (writing that: \'93lip rouge was spoken of aboveground as the most indecent of all makeup, [but] lipstick societies underground traded recipes\'94).}}}{\insrsid13707766\charrsid3826080   Finally, t}{\insrsid11089846\charrsid3826080 
he particularly privileged would also sneak off}{\insrsid16597068\charrsid3826080  to}{\insrsid1184441\charrsid3826080  the more permissive}{\insrsid16597068\charrsid3826080  Paris to buy Guer}{\insrsid11089846\charrsid3826080 lain\rquote 
s lip pomade, which involved grapefruit mixed with butter and wax.}{\cs16\super\insrsid11089846\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 18.}}}{\insrsid2432568\charrsid3826080 
\par }{\insrsid10027111\charrsid3826080 \tab All of this }{\insrsid12722571\charrsid3826080 furtively}{\insrsid14769163\charrsid3826080  continued use of lip rouge}{\insrsid10027111\charrsid3826080 
 eventually started to seep out into the open towards the very end of the century.  }{\insrsid9844007\charrsid3826080 This relaxation in }{\insrsid15803287\charrsid3826080 social }{\insrsid9844007\charrsid3826080 
lipstick restrictions most often gets credited to actresses who made it into the fringes of society while continuing to wear the makeup that they employed professionally.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9844007\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 139.  Actresses\rquote 
 use of stage makeup dates back to 1660, when, for the first time, women rather than boys began acting the feminine parts in plays.  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Williams}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 65, at 41.}}}{\insrsid9844007\charrsid3826080   Continued unabashed use of makeup by high-end prostitutes known as }{\i\insrsid9844007\charrsid3826080 demi-mondaines}{\insrsid9844007\charrsid3826080  als}{
\insrsid14769163\charrsid3826080 o likely contributed to lipstick}{\insrsid9844007\charrsid3826080 \rquote s eventual resurfacing.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9844007\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 143.}}}{\insrsid9844007\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid12870839\charrsid3826080 
Additionally, more cynical scholars propose}{\insrsid14769163\charrsid3826080  that lip rouge}{\insrsid9844007\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid13503168\charrsid3826080 application became allowable }{\insrsid12870839\charrsid3826080 
largely because men found it newly expedient to permit such application.  According to this theory, men began to quietly encourage cosmetics use}{\insrsid9844007\charrsid3826080  in the }{\insrsid12870839\charrsid3826080 
hopes that a concern for makeup would in turn }{\insrsid9844007\charrsid3826080 discoura}{\insrsid12870839\charrsid3826080 ge the }{\insrsid14769163\charrsid3826080 even }{\insrsid12870839\charrsid3826080 greater evil of female }{
\insrsid9844007\charrsid3826080 sports and professional pursuits.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9844007\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Boock}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 60, at 36 (citing Max Beerbohm\rquote s }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 In Defense of Cosmetics}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 as an example of such arguments for increasing cosmetics usage in order to decrease women\rquote s pursuit of \lquote masculine\rquote  activities).}}}{\insrsid13503168\charrsid3826080   Whether for }{\insrsid4602753\charrsid3826080 genuinely }{
\insrsid14025281\charrsid3826080 progressive}{\insrsid13503168\charrsid3826080  or }{\insrsid4602753\charrsid3826080 for more }{\insrsid14025281\charrsid3826080 insidious}{\insrsid13503168\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid14025281\charrsid3826080 reason}{
\insrsid4602753\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid13503168\charrsid3826080  though, by the 1890s}{\insrsid10027111\charrsid3826080  older wo}{\insrsid10706156\charrsid3826080 men could toler}{\insrsid14769163\charrsid3826080 ably use lip rouge}{
\insrsid10027111\charrsid3826080 , although unmarried women still could not, except in gatherings of female friends.}{\cs16\super\insrsid10027111\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 141-42.}}}{\insrsid12722571\charrsid3826080   While most women would stil}{\insrsid14769163\charrsid3826080 l only apply lip rouge}{\insrsid12722571\charrsid3826080 
 in strict secrecy, it }{\insrsid6364574\charrsid3826080 did reappear}{\insrsid12722571\charrsid3826080  in store windows publicly.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12722571\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 337.  Cheek and lip rouge in particular remained \'93
in a state of dubious respectability [throughout the century]\'85 Many women used it, but most of them preferred not to advertise the fact.\'94  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 380.}}}{
\insrsid11408968\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9510385\charrsid3826080 That lipstick}{\insrsid10706156\charrsid3826080  slowly became more endurable }{\insrsid9510385\charrsid3826080 in no way means that lipstick became }{\insrsid9243831\charrsid3826080 
actually accepted}{\insrsid10706156\charrsid3826080  though}{\insrsid9510385\charrsid3826080 , as demonstrated}{\insrsid11408968\charrsid3826080  by famed actress Sar}{\insrsid9510385\charrsid3826080 ah Bernhardt causing one of the}{
\insrsid11408968\charrsid3826080  century\rquote s greatest scandals in }{\insrsid12016420\charrsid3826080 the 1880s}{\insrsid11408968\charrsid3826080  when she applied }{\insrsid9510385\charrsid3826080 red }{\insrsid14769163\charrsid3826080 lip rouge}{
\insrsid11408968\charrsid3826080  in public.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9510385\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 14.}}}{\insrsid11408968\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12016420\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid3811069\charrsid3826080 Even the wild beauty Lola Montez, mistress of both }{\insrsid14039735\charrsid3826080 Franz }{\insrsid3811069\charrsid3826080 Liszt and Louis I of Bavaria, apparently felt compelled to }{\insrsid9065812\charrsid3826080 
in print }{\insrsid14769163\charrsid3826080 warn women that lip rouge}{\insrsid3811069\charrsid3826080  le}{\insrsid9065812\charrsid3826080 ads to sure destruction}{\insrsid3811069\charrsid3826080 
, even though this warning did not correlate particularly well with her own experience.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3811069\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 324-327.  Lola wrote, or at least attached her name to, a beauty hints book containing the statement: \'93Let every woman at once understand t
hat paint can do nothing for the mouth and lips, the advantage gained by the artificial red is a thousand times more than lost by the sure destruction of that delicate charm associated with the idea of \lquote nature\rquote s dewey lip.\rquote  \'94  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 327.}}}{\insrsid3811069\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid13503168\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid13503168 {\insrsid9065812\charrsid3826080 Thus, overall the}{\insrsid11029032\charrsid3826080  English lagged }{\insrsid6967235\charrsid3826080 
far behind their }{\insrsid9065812\charrsid3826080 former American subjects in lipstick use.  The first department store makeup counter opened at New York\rquote s B. Altman\rquote s in 1867.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9065812\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 76.}}}{\insrsid9065812\charrsid3826080   That same year, Harriet M. Fish of New York
}{\insrsid14769163\charrsid3826080  patented a lip and cheek rouge pad}{\insrsid9065812\charrsid3826080  colored with carmine, strawberry juice, beet juice, and hollyhock root.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9065812\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 11, at 35.  Also popular in Chicago at that time was a lip and cheek rouge made of alkanet root, oil of roses, and oil of turpentine.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid11029032\charrsid3826080   Am
}{\insrsid3571564\charrsid3826080 ericans}{\insrsid13651829\charrsid3826080 \rquote }{\insrsid11151722\charrsid3826080  few previous qualms about lips}{\insrsid13651829\charrsid3826080 tick lingered on, but }{\insrsid11151722\charrsid3826080 Americans }{
\insrsid13651829\charrsid3826080 generally }{\insrsid11151722\charrsid3826080 plunged ahead in using and develo}{\insrsid13651829\charrsid3826080 ping }{\insrsid14769163\charrsid3826080 lip rouge}{\insrsid13651829\charrsid3826080 
 much as they pulled ahead of E}{\insrsid12016420\charrsid3826080 ngland in industrialization.}{\cs16\super\insrsid10045167\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Jonathan Prude, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Capitalism, Industrialization, and the Factory in Post-Revolutionary America}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 16 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
J. of Early Republic}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  237 (1996) (discussing the motivations and meanings of American industrialization following the Revolutionary War).}}}{\insrsid6967235\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \qc \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid2435007 {\insrsid3571564\charrsid3826080 United States}{\insrsid4482845\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid14440691 {\i\insrsid16458625\charrsid3826080 1900-1920
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid16458625 {\insrsid9263612\charrsid3826080 At the turn of the}{\insrsid14901748\charrsid3826080  twent}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080 
ieth century, lipstick began to acquire the symbolic and economic standing that it holds today}{\insrsid9583985\charrsid3826080 , with }{\insrsid4396992\charrsid3826080 
rapidly increasing numbers of women using the product impervious to its lack of safety regulations}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid14747881\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Richard Corson describes the period as one in which, \'93the cosmetics cycle returned to the completely free and open use of makeup\'85
 Perhaps for the first time since the ancient Egyptians, the unlimited use of cosmetics came to be universally accepted, both socially and morally.\'94  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 393.  This seems rather an overstatement, considering the controversy that lipstick still managed to stir, but Corson\rquote 
s effusion does capture the remarkable increase in acceptance and application of lipstick.}}}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080   Lipstick continued to symboliz}{\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080 e femininity as it continuously }{
\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080 had }{\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080 done }{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080 for four hundred years prior, but now}{\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080  this symbolism contained}{\insrsid5209057\charrsid3826080  a}{
\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080  twist}{\insrsid5209057\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5209057\charrsid3826080  Due to the endorsement of leading suffragettes, lipstick more specifically}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid5209057\charrsid3826080 symbolized female}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080  emancipation}{\insrsid14502012\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid1644316\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Although evidently not a theory espoused by scholars, it seems at least possible that several female entrepreneurs\rquote  success as cosmetics magnates also contributed to lipstick\rquote 
s transformation into a symbol of emancipation.  To take one well-known example: a young Canadian woman named Florence Nightingale Graham borrowed $6,000 from a 
cousin to start a cosmetics company named Elizabeth Arden; Graham repaid the loan within four months, and ten years later refused an offer to buy the company for $15,000,000.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. at 420.}}}{\insrsid14502012\charrsid3826080   L}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080 ead}{\insrsid5209057\charrsid3826080 ers such as Elizabeth Cady Stant}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080 on and Charlotte Perkins}{\insrsid5209057\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080 Gilman trump}{\insrsid5209057\charrsid3826080 e}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080 ted }{\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080 the wearing of }{\insrsid15365416\charrsid3826080 lip rouge}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080  as a}{
\insrsid7884361\charrsid3826080 n}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7884361\charrsid3826080 emblem}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080  of women\rquote }{\insrsid5209057\charrsid3826080 s emancipation, and incorporated its use into}{
\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080  the }{\insrsid5209057\charrsid3826080 1912 New York Suffragette R}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080 ally.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 17.}}}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5209057\charrsid3826080 
Thereafter, suffragettes wore a particularly }{\insrsid15365416\charrsid3826080 noticeable shade of red lip rouge}{\insrsid5209057\charrsid3826080  as part of standard rally procedure.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5209057\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 156.}}}{\insrsid5209057\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080 
In both America and England, wom}{\insrsid12137135\charrsid3826080 en publicly applied}{\insrsid15365416\charrsid3826080  lip rouge}{\insrsid12137135\charrsid3826080  with the express intent of}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080  appall}{
\insrsid12137135\charrsid3826080 ing}{\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080  men.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9961746\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 148.}}}{\insrsid14944879\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080 L}{\insrsid4217685\charrsid3826080 ipstick\rquote s long proscription}{
\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080  by social, religious, and l}{\insrsid4217685\charrsid3826080 egal male authority }{\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080 made it a rea}{\insrsid12137135\charrsid3826080 dy symbol for}{\insrsid8271746\charrsid3826080 
 female rebellion.}{\insrsid14747881\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid2767863 {\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080 At the same time though, displaying }{\insrsid12987343\charrsid3826080 full, colorful lips for}{
\insrsid14944879\charrsid3826080  traditional }{\insrsid12987343\charrsid3826080 beautification reasons}{\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080 , both via \lquote natural\rquote  and cosmetic}{\insrsid14502012\charrsid3826080  methods,}{
\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080  also }{\insrsid14944879\charrsid3826080 continued.  Those of a Gibson Girls persuasion would make their lips red and swollen by biting them and sucking on hot cinnamon drops.}{\cs16\super\insrsid14944879\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 20.}
}}{\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080   Women following Baron}{\insrsid14944879\charrsid3826080 ess d\rquote Orchamps}{\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080 \rquote }{\insrsid14944879\charrsid3826080  advice from the 1907 }{\i\insrsid14944879\charrsid3826080 
Tous les Secrets de la Femme}{\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080  would redden}{\insrsid14944879\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid14502012\charrsid3826080 their }{\insrsid14944879\charrsid3826080 lips by}{\insrsid14502012\charrsid3826080  soaking them}{
\insrsid14944879\charrsid3826080  for five minutes in a glass of warm water}{\insrsid14502012\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid14944879\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid14502012\charrsid3826080 followed by }{\insrsid14944879\charrsid3826080 
smearing them with camphorated pomade}{\insrsid14502012\charrsid3826080 , and fi}{\insrsid12987343\charrsid3826080 nally topping them off with glyc}{\insrsid14502012\charrsid3826080 erine.}{\cs16\super\insrsid14502012\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 5, at 414.  The Baroness did responsibly warn women that they should not rely on this procedure too often, as glycerine will eventually cause lips to lose elasticity.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{
\insrsid14502012\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid7884361\charrsid3826080 Extra}{\insrsid545080\charrsid3826080  adventurous ladies might seek the lipstick tattoos of Gorge Burchett, the most famous tattoo artist in England}{\insrsid11668919\charrsid3826080 
 around 1910}{\insrsid545080\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid545080\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 8, at 69.}}}{\insrsid545080\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid10563774\charrsid3826080 Simultaneously though}{\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid12987343\charrsid3826080 cosmetic lip color }{\insrsid10563774\charrsid3826080 also }{
\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080 continued to }{\insrsid9583985\charrsid3826080 advance, facilitated by}{\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080 such developments as the first synthetic carmine.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 11, at 36.}}}{\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080   T}{
\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080 he Fre}{\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080 nch company Guerlain introduced}{\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080  the first lip rouge in actual stick form for }{\insrsid12987343\charrsid3826080 its }{
\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080 aristocratic clients.}{\cs16\super\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 16.}}}{\insrsid14440691\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080 And, b}{\insrsid6388775\charrsid3826080 
y the eve of the World War I, it had become common to purchase lipstick stored in tinted papers or rolled in paper tubes.}{\cs16\super\insrsid6388775\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 11, at 37.}}}{\insrsid6388775\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9583985\charrsid3826080 Dur}{
\insrsid16323756\charrsid3826080 ing the War, Americans then developed}{\insrsid9583985\charrsid3826080  this French inn
ovation further.  The first modern tubes of lipstick came out of Waterbury, Connecticut in 1915, when Maurice Levy of the Scovil Manufacturing Company real}{\insrsid789445\charrsid3826080 ized that one could }{\insrsid9583985\charrsid3826080 
mass produce and distribute the popular sticks of lip color by packaging them in a protective metal casing.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9583985\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 16.}}}{\insrsid2767863\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9583985\charrsid3826080 
Levy tubes \'93were two inches long and had a plain dip-nickel finish,\'94 operating via slide levers on the side of the tubes.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9583985\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 11, at 39.}}}{\insrsid2767863\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid8271746\charrsid3826080 Lipstick}{
\insrsid13709945\charrsid3826080 , as people now called it}{\insrsid4217685\charrsid3826080 ,}{\cs16\super\insrsid13709945\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Actually, people initially referred to the product as \'93lip stick,\'94 apparently after the Old English \'93
lippa sticka,\'94
\par but merging the words into a single term became increasingly standard over the next two decades.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 82.}}}{\insrsid8271746\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid1535644\charrsid3826080 still }{\insrsid8271746\charrsid3826080 had fa}{\insrsid1535644\charrsid3826080 r to develop}{\insrsid8271746\charrsid3826080 
 though; for example, the common American }{\insrsid1535644\charrsid3826080 recipe of}{\insrsid8271746\charrsid3826080  crushed insects}{\insrsid1535644\charrsid3826080 , beeswax, and olive oil produced lipstick with an}{\insrsid8271746\charrsid3826080 
 unfortunate tendency to turn rancid several hours after application.}{\cs16\super\insrsid8271746\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 45.}}}{\insrsid11606134\charrsid3826080 
  Locally-produced lipsticks of pigmented powder mixed with butter or lard created similar problems.}{\cs16\super\insrsid11606134\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 14.}}}{\insrsid11606134\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid16323756 {\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080 No safety }{\insrsid11024421\charrsid3826080 laws}{\insrsid7884361\charrsid3826080 , federal or state,}
{\insrsid7810579\charrsid3826080  checked either such preservation}{\insrsid11024421\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080 problems or the continued use of harmful ingredients in some lipsti}{\insrsid10500632\charrsid3826080 cks.  }{
\insrsid11024421\charrsid3826080 This lack of regulation did not come from }{\insrsid11796631\charrsid3826080 total ignorance of}{\insrsid11024421\charrsid3826080  cosmetics\rquote  dangers, for the federal legislature had, as early as 
1897, begun trying to pass a major }{\insrsid6639967\charrsid3826080 food and drug}{\insrsid11024421\charrsid3826080  safety law that would include cosmetics under its auspices.}{\cs16\super\insrsid11024421\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Jacqueline A. Greff, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Regulation of Cosmetics That Are Also Drugs}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 51 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Food & Drug L.J.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  243 (1996).}}}{\insrsid11024421\charrsid3826080 
  Resistance to cosmetics regulation from the National Pure Food and Drug Congress though, }{\insrsid11796631\charrsid3826080 finally }{\insrsid11024421\charrsid3826080 forced legislators, in 1900, to drop the }{\insrsid7884361\charrsid3826080 bill
\rquote s }{\insrsid11024421\charrsid3826080 co}{\insrsid7884361\charrsid3826080 smetics provision }{\insrsid11024421\charrsid3826080 in order to get it passed.}{\cs16\super\insrsid11796631\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 243-44.  The Pure Food and Drugs Act of 1906 passed only \'93after long struggle\'94 that necessitated a number of compromises.  Rayburn D. Tousley,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act of 1938}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 5 }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 J. of Marketing}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  259 (1941).  The Act, in its final form, basically prohibited the interstate commerce shipment of adulterated or misbranded foods or drugs.  Tousley, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , at 259.}}}{\insrsid11796631\charrsid3826080   Thus did}{\insrsid11024421\charrsid3826080  the Pure Food }{\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080 and Drug}{
\insrsid11024421\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080  Act}{\insrsid11024421\charrsid3826080  of 1906}{\insrsid8395674\charrsid3826080  ultimately fail to include}{\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080  cosmeti}{\insrsid8395674\charrsid3826080 
cs under its}{\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080  jurisdiction}{\insrsid8395674\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080  \'93except in an exceedingly remote fashion.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 hillips}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 31, at 226-27.}}}{\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080 
  Only when labeled with claims of preventing, mitigating, or curi}{\insrsid10500632\charrsid3826080 ng disease did cosmetics like}{\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080  lipstick become subject to }{\insrsid3016412\charrsid3826080 federal }{
\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080 regulation.}{\cs16\super\insrsid11993443\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 227.}}}{\insrsid8395674\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid7565155\charrsid3826080 
State-level regulations for lipstick}{\insrsid6828156\charrsid3826080  safety remained similarly}{\insrsid7884361\charrsid3826080  absent}{\insrsid12094\charrsid3826080 , a}{\insrsid5117536\charrsid3826080 
lthough a couple of states considered limiting lipstick use for other reasons}{\insrsid12094\charrsid3826080 .  }{\insrsid7884361\charrsid3826080 New York}{\insrsid12094\charrsid3826080 \rquote s Board 
of Health considered banning lipstick out of concern that it might poison the men who kissed women wearing it.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12094\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 23.}
}}{\insrsid12094\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid9263612\charrsid3826080  A}{\insrsid5117536\charrsid3826080  bill introduced }{\insrsid9263612\charrsid3826080 i}{\insrsid5117536\charrsid3826080 n the Kansas legislature}{\insrsid9263612\charrsid3826080 
\rquote s 1915 session}{\insrsid5117536\charrsid3826080  would have made it a misdemeanor for any woman under age 44 to wear cosmetics if \'93for the purpose of creating a false impression.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid5117536\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Boock}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 60, at 33.}}}{\insrsid16323756\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid16458625 {\i\insrsid1525215\charrsid3826080 
\par }{\i\insrsid16458625\charrsid3826080 1920s
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid8071362 {\insrsid16323756\charrsid3826080 This heady environment of increasing lipstick}{\insrsid14635457\charrsid3826080 
 development and use unchecked by any lipstick safety laws}{\insrsid16323756\charrsid3826080  only heightened }{\insrsid14635457\charrsid3826080 in the years }{\insrsid16323756\charrsid3826080 following World War I.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid12654064\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Even in England, lipstick mounted a huge comeback to reign alongside the eyebrow pencil as the most important cosmetics item in the 1920s.  G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 149-50.}}}{\insrsid14635457\charrsid3826080   Levy\rquote s original }{\insrsid9263612\charrsid3826080 push-up }{
\insrsid14635457\charrsid3826080 lipstick }{\insrsid10373109\charrsid3826080 tubes }{\insrsid9263612\charrsid3826080 quickly gave way to the swivel }{\insrsid14635457\charrsid3826080 lipstick }{\insrsid9263612\charrsid3826080 
tubes that people know today.  In 1923, James Bruce Mason Jr. patented the first swivel lipstick, with the lipstick case bottom featuring a decorative screw head that one turned as the lip color depleted.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9263612\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid9263612 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 11, at 39.}}}{\insrsid9263612\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid16015723\charrsid3826080 In the following years, the U.S. Patent Office then issued \'93upwards of one-hundred patents for different lipstick shapes and dispenser variations.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid16015723\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 40.}}}{\insrsid9727356\charrsid3826080   Among the more extraordinary of these patented ideas came:}{\insrsid16015723\charrsid3826080  octag}{\insrsid9727356\charrsid3826080 
on lipsticks, lipsticks designed to resemble}{\insrsid16015723\charrsid3826080  toast popping out of a toaster, and lipstic}{\insrsid9727356\charrsid3826080 ks whose covers rolled back in imitation of}{\insrsid16015723\charrsid3826080  roll-top desks.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid16015723\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .  Predictably, less creative but more sensible lipstick designs, such as the popular \'93tango case,\'94
 actually met with much more commercial success.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 158.}}}{
\insrsid9727356\charrsid3826080   Devices intended to rearrange women\rquote s mouths into more pleasing shapes, such as a clamp that promis}{\insrsid10373109\charrsid3826080 ed to mold the upper lip into}{\insrsid9727356\charrsid3826080  a cupid\rquote 
s b}{\insrsid10373109\charrsid3826080 ow}{\insrsid6776140\charrsid3826080 , also claim}{\insrsid9727356\charrsid3826080 ed patents.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9727356\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 11, at 43.  The patent for this particular lip clamp belonged to Hazel Mann Montealegre of Kansas.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid406610\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid13777444\charrsid3826080 
Not only}{\insrsid6776140\charrsid3826080  these }{\insrsid10373109\charrsid3826080 peculiarities}{\insrsid6776140\charrsid3826080  but also more lasting}{\insrsid13777444\charrsid3826080  innovations came out of the 1920s though, such as }{
\insrsid13047432\charrsid3826080 lip gloss,}{\cs16\super\insrsid13047432\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 24 (discussing Max Factor\rquote s career generally and his 1928 introduction of lip gloss in particular); Bud Brewster,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 50 Years of Cosmetic Color}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 110}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Cosm. & Toiletries}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, Dec. 1995, at 107 (narrating how Max Factor created lip gloss so that actresses\rquote  lips could have a moist appearance without the ladies continually having to lick their lips as previously done). }}}{\insrsid13047432\charrsid3826080  and }{
\insrsid6776140\charrsid3826080 the first }{\insrsid861683\charrsid3826080 in a long line of }{\insrsid6776140\charrsid3826080 purportedly indelible and waterproof lipsticks.}{\cs16\super\insrsid6776140\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 5, at 462-471.  A text from around the time warned that, even apart from the dubiousness of claims to indelibility, women should avoid indelible lipsticks because of they often had bromo ac
id dye for their colorant and contained lead or other harmful materials.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 hillips}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 31, at 47-48.}}}
{\insrsid861683\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid15036778\charrsid3826080 Other debuting options, such as l}{\insrsid8071362\charrsid3826080 ipsticks }{\insrsid6776140\charrsid3826080 that cha}{\insrsid861683\charrsid3826080 nge}{
\insrsid15036778\charrsid3826080  color}{\insrsid6776140\charrsid3826080  upon application}{\cs16\super\insrsid6776140\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 481.  The incredibly successful brand Tangee sold only one shade of lipstick, a light orange that turned coral pink upon application.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .  Tangee\rquote s makers, marketing to the parents of young girls, created the fiction that this color change came from the lipstick blending in with its wearer\rquote 
s natural lip color.  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 11, at 45-46.  In actuality, a bromo-acid 
dye in the lipstick changed colors depending on the degree of alkalinity in the wearer\rquote s lips. R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 46.}}}{\insrsid6776140\charrsid3826080  and flavored lipsticks}{\insrsid15036778\charrsid3826080 ,}{\cs16\super\insrsid6776140\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 19.}}}{\insrsid15036778\charrsid3826080  have also remained cyclically trendy}{
\insrsid14039735\charrsid3826080  to this day}{\insrsid6776140\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid11429470\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid10373109\charrsid3826080 Whether caused by or the cause}{\insrsid15875831\charrsid3826080  of these continuing advances}{
\insrsid14039735\charrsid3826080  in cosmetics technology}{\insrsid10373109\charrsid3826080 , lipstick use conti}{\insrsid13641511\charrsid3826080 nued to sharply increase.  Approximately}{\insrsid10373109\charrsid3826080  fifty millio
n American women used lipstick}{\insrsid15875831\charrsid3826080  in the 1920s,}{\cs16\super\insrsid15875831\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 24.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 But cf.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , C}
{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 481-83 (cautioning that, despite lipstick\rquote 
s impressive gain in favor, powder still ranked as the preeminent cosmetics product in the United States, with ninety percent of women using powder while only fifteen percent used lipstick).}}}{\insrsid15875831\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid13641511\charrsid3826080 enough, according to one prominent advertising agency, to stretch three-thousand miles per year.}{\cs16\super\insrsid13641511\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 490.}}}{\insrsid13641511\charrsid3826080   A new}{\insrsid10373109\charrsid3826080  term}
{\insrsid13641511\charrsid3826080 , the}{\insrsid10373109\charrsid3826080  \'93generation gap}{\insrsid13641511\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid10373109\charrsid3826080 \'94}{\insrsid15875831\charrsid3826080  was }{\insrsid13641511\charrsid3826080 even }{
\insrsid15875831\charrsid3826080 coined in 1925 to describe the disparity}{\insrsid10373109\charrsid3826080  between mother and daughter generations\rquote  lipstick use.}{\cs16\super\insrsid13641511\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 8, at 70.  Attempting to bridge this gap, marketers schemed to reach mothers through their daughters, with such counsel as: \'93do see to it that your Mummy looks smart.  Remember, no man really likes to go to a girl\rquote 
s home and see the mother of the girl he admires looking dowdy\'94  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Williams}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 65, at 132, quoting }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Jane Hawthorn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 How to Look Your Best}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  45 (1928).}}}{\insrsid13641511\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid10232731\charrsid3826080 Cosmetics generally became the United States\rquote  fourth biggest industry after cars, movies, and bootleg liquor.}{\cs16\super\insrsid10232731\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid10232731 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 19.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 But see}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, Nancy Koehn, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Est\'e9e Lauder: Self-Definition and the Modern Cosmetics Market}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  in}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Beauty and
 Business: Commerce,  Gender, and Culture in Modern America}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  217 (Philip Scranton, ed., 2001) (contending that, despite rapid growth, the United States beauty industry remained relatively small in the 1920s).}}}{
\insrsid10232731\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid10683963\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid16458625 {\insrsid8988648\charrsid3826080 \tab Reasons for this increasing }{\insrsid10232731\charrsid3826080 lipstick }{
\insrsid8988648\charrsid3826080 use vari}{\insrsid9964391\charrsid3826080 ed widely.  Flappers took a page}{\insrsid8988648\charrsid3826080  from earlier women\rquote s rig}{\insrsid12654064\charrsid3826080 hts advocates, and wore scarlet lipstick \'93
in a deliberate and, it seems, successful attempt to shock their elders.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid12654064\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 150.}}}{\insrsid12654064\charrsid3826080   Simultaneously, the }{\insrsid9964391\charrsid3826080 \'93New Woman,\'94 a more faithful }{\insrsid6639967\charrsid3826080 re}{
\insrsid9964391\charrsid3826080 incarnation}{\insrsid12654064\charrsid3826080  of previous feminists,}{\insrsid9964391\charrsid3826080  also adopted lipstick as a badge.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9964391\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 11, at 45.}}}{\insrsid9964391\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5536227\charrsid3826080 Many}{
\insrsid12729248\charrsid3826080  women }{\insrsid5536227\charrsid3826080 also wore lipstick with no such rebellious intent though.  Some }{\insrsid12729248\charrsid3826080 believed the magazine advertisements}{\insrsid5536227\charrsid3826080 \rquote 
 assurances }{\insrsid12729248\charrsid3826080 that lipstick would protect the}{\insrsid5536227\charrsid3826080 ir}{\insrsid12729248\charrsid3826080  mouth}{\insrsid5536227\charrsid3826080 s from sucking in}{\insrsid12729248\charrsid3826080  the }{
\insrsid5536227\charrsid3826080 germs and pollution of ongoing}{\insrsid12729248\charrsid3826080  industrialization.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12729248\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 17.}}}{\insrsid12729248\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5536227\charrsid3826080 
Others wished to imitate }{\insrsid14121093\charrsid3826080 the color and shape of }{\insrsid5536227\charrsid3826080 their favorite movie stars}{\insrsid14121093\charrsid3826080 \rquote  mouths}{\insrsid5536227\charrsid3826080 , particularly \'93
the Clara Bow Look, the Theda Bara Look, [and] the Mae Murray Look.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid5536227\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. at 17-18.  Indeed, accepted wisdom holds that: \'93without the invention of the moving picture the revolution in the use of cosmetics would have proceeded at a very much slower pace\'85. [women] modeled their appearance as far as they could on America
\rquote s untitled aristocracy \endash  the stars of Hollywood.\'94  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Williams}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 65, at 135.}}}{
\insrsid14121093\charrsid3826080   These trademark mouths c}{\insrsid15887916\charrsid3826080 reated by Max Factor originated }{\insrsid14121093\charrsid3826080 from a movie lighting problem; hot studio lamps caused lip pomade to run, an
d so Max Factor started using greasepaint foundation to cover their natural outlines of actresses\rquote  mouths and then placed only thumbprints of lipstick at their lips\rquote  centers.}{\cs16\super\insrsid14121093\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 8, at 19.  Unbeknownst to the viewing public, Max Factor also used black lipstick on actresses, because it looked better than pink and red when photographed.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{
\insrsid14121093\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid15887916\charrsid3826080 When these accidentally developed}{\insrsid14504178\charrsid3826080  bow print mouths b}{\insrsid15887916\charrsid3826080 ecame tremendously stylish, }{\insrsid14504178\charrsid3826080 
Max Factor capitalized on }{\insrsid15887916\charrsid3826080 their success by selling an eponymous}{\insrsid14504178\charrsid3826080  l}{\insrsid15887916\charrsid3826080 ine of cosmetics, which he referred to as \'93make-up,\'94
 thereby further creating cosmetics history}{\insrsid14504178\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid14504178\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. at 20 (explaining that, before Max Factor, people used the term \'93makeup\'94 solely to denote the products that actors used, never for ladies\rquote  \'93cosmetics\'94).}}}{\insrsid12654064\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid15075000 {\insrsid12527788\charrsid3826080 A smattering of resistance to such lipstick furor remained, else, of course, women would not
 have worn lipstick as a rebellious gesture.  According to one 1923 commentator: \'93
Probably the lip-stick has aroused sharper critical rage than any other whimsicality of women.  It can appear to have seized the feminine imagination more violently than any other specific device of fashion.\'94}{
\cs16\super\insrsid12527788\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 464 (a
ttributing the comment to Alexander Black).}}}{\insrsid15166570\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9263612\charrsid3826080 New Hampshire}{\insrsid15166570\charrsid3826080 , whether out of moral or health concerns,}{\insrsid9263612\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid12405660\charrsid3826080 unsuccessfully }{\insrsid9263612\charrsid3826080 tried to ban the use of all cosmetics in the state.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9263612\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid9263612 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 468-69.}}}{\insrsid15166570\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid9263612\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12137599\charrsid3826080 Neither }{\insrsid3634877\charrsid3826080 
other states nor the federal government issued legal comment on lipstick\rquote s morality or safety.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12137599\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 The federal government did make seven amendments to the Pure Food and Drugs Act of 1906, such as: a drug misbranding provision whose requirement of intent to commit fraud made this provision (known as the \'93fraud joker\'94
) almost impossible to enforce, a food labeling provision that required inclusion of food\rquote s net weight on labels, a standard for the milk fat content of butter, standards for the quality and fill of canned fruits and vegetables, an
d an amendment to factory inspection provisions for seafood.  However, no cosmetics provisions numbered among the Act\rquote s intended improvements.  Tousley,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 148, at 259-62.}}}{\insrsid3634877\charrsid3826080   Many lipsticks of the time ranged from uncomfortable, as a result of soap bases,}{\cs16\super\insrsid3634877\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 20.}}}{\insrsid3634877\charrsid3826080 
 to downright dangerous, as a result of coal tar dyes,}{\cs16\super\insrsid3634877\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 485 (describi
ng a typical 1920s lipstick as consisting of a paraffin base reinforced with either wax or cocoa butter and tinted with either carmine or coal tar dye).  Despite having no specific statutory authority to do so, the FDA actually did make an effort to contr
ol these coal tar dyes by inspecting products before they left manufacturing plants and publishing a list of approved dyes.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Developments in the Law: The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act,}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  67}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Harv. L. Rev. }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 632, 677 (1954) (hereinafter \'93}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Developments in the Law}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \'94
).  Use of an unlisted dye did not qualify as a per se violation though, and these informal regulatory attempts could not ensure safety nearly as well as could the eventual the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act\rquote 
s mandatory coal tar dye list and certification requirements.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Developments in the Law}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , at 677.}}}{
\insrsid3634877\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12137599\charrsid3826080 but }{\insrsid3634877\charrsid3826080 the situation apparently met wi}{\insrsid12137599\charrsid3826080 th no official comment.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12337270\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Lipstick could, in some cases, indirectly face restrictions based on the Federal Trade Commission\rquote s (FTC\rquote s) control over false advertising as a method of unfair competition.  James F. Hoge,}{\i\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \'93An Appraisal of the New Drug and Cosmetic Legislation from the Viewpoint of Those Industries}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,\'94 6}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
Law & Contemp. Probs. }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 111-12 (1939).  The FTC did not opt to expend much of its supervisory power on lipstick though, perhaps because the agency only had the power
 to force modification of claims rather than stop sales of products, and had met with little success in its early twentieth century cosmetics cases anyway.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 hillips}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 31, at 236.  And, despite FDA Chief Walter G. Campbell\rquote s vocal efforts, no more direct cosmetics regulation was enacted.  Hoge,}{
\i\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , at 111.}}}{\insrsid12137599\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12337270\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid9526627 {\i\insrsid16458625\charrsid3826080 1930s}{\i\insrsid9526627\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid7031391 {\insrsid3111431\charrsid3826080 Come the 1930s though, with the types of lipstick products, number of lipstick consumers}{
\insrsid875853\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid3111431\charrsid3826080  and wealth of lipstick producers multiplying in tandem, this regulatory environment shifted dramatically.  }{\insrsid13764888\charrsid3826080 Now conventional products, such as }{
\insrsid875853\charrsid3826080 lip liner}{\cs16\super\insrsid875853\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 8, at 20.}}}{\insrsid13764888\charrsid3826080  and at least}{\insrsid875853\charrsid3826080  allegedly sun-protectant lipstick}{\cs16\super\insrsid875853\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 21.  Helena Rubinstein became the first to advertise lipstick as offering sun protection, although whether her lipstick truly provided said protection is questionable.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid1015207\charrsid3826080  first appeared during this decade.}{\insrsid875853\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9660530\charrsid3826080 
Several other new products, such as the lipstick stencil for ensuring symmetrical application}{\insrsid13764888\charrsid3826080 , also briefly }{\insrsid13371507\charrsid3826080 surfaced}{\insrsid9660530\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid9660530\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 11, at 48 (noting Montanan Marie L. Helchan
\rquote s patenting of the lipstick stencil in 1938).}}}{\insrsid9660530\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid13371507\charrsid3826080 In addition to introducing new products, m}{\insrsid6762788\charrsid3826080 anufacturers }{\insrsid7556453\charrsid3826080 
rapidly promulgated enhancemen}{\insrsid13371507\charrsid3826080 ts to existing products.  For example, they developed}{\insrsid7556453\charrsid3826080  lipsticks with shinier finishes,}{\cs16\super\insrsid7556453\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 156.}}}{\insrsid13371507\charrsid3826080  heavily perfumed}{
\insrsid7556453\charrsid3826080  lipstick}{\insrsid7014697\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid7556453\charrsid3826080  so that customers received two products in one,}{\cs16\super\insrsid7556453\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 21.  Likely, manufacturers did not know about the Egypt
ian tradition of perfumed lip color, and so viewed lipstick-perfume as an entirely original concept.}}}{\insrsid13371507\charrsid3826080  and designed}{\insrsid7556453\charrsid3826080  any number of multi-function lipstick cases.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid7556453\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. at 115 (describing an assortment of lipstick cases that ran the gamut from simply having wrist straps or keychains to coming complete with a seventy-nine page biography of Madame du Barry, mistress to Louis XV).}}}{\insrsid7556453\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid1015207\charrsid3826080 These developments met with mass enthusiasm, as documented by }{\insrsid15941723\charrsid3826080 the fashion magazine }{\i\insrsid15941723\charrsid3826080 Vogue}{\insrsid1015207\charrsid3826080  declaring}{
\insrsid15941723\charrsid3826080  lipstick a defining item of the twentieth century.}{\cs16\super\insrsid15941723\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 508 (reprinting the magazine\rquote s announcement that: \'93
if we were perpetuating the gestures of the twentieth century for posterity, putting on lipstick would head the list\'94).}}}{\insrsid7031391\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid15941723\charrsid3826080 A}{\insrsid6762788\charrsid3826080 
 survey of Depression-era households showed that fifty-eight percent of them owned at least one tube of lipstick, compared to fifty-nine percent owning a jar of mustard.}{\cs16\super\insrsid6762788\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 26.}
}}{\insrsid6762788\charrsid3826080   Women began applying lipstick more regularly than they brushed their teeth,}{\cs16\super\insrsid6762788\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 11, at 46.}}}{\insrsid6762788\charrsid3826080 
 and the cosmetics industry became one of very few that left the}{\insrsid15941723\charrsid3826080  Depression wealthier than }{\insrsid7031391\charrsid3826080 when }{\insrsid6762788\charrsid3826080 it went in.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid15941723\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 21.}}}{\insrsid3111431\charrsid3826080 

\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid13721301 {\insrsid2171638\charrsid3826080 \tab }{\insrsid13721301\charrsid3826080 For the first time in history, this }{\insrsid3152040\charrsid3826080 
proliferating lipstick met with}{\insrsid13721301\charrsid3826080  an explosion safety regulations}{\insrsid7014697\charrsid3826080 , both at the federal and at the state level}{\insrsid13721301\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid13647528\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid7014697\charrsid3826080 On the federal level, p}{\insrsid16141868\charrsid3826080 olitical will, women\rquote s lobbying, and cosmetics industry resignation collectively }{\insrsid1443634\charrsid3826080 foster}{\insrsid16141868\charrsid3826080 
ed an environment in which safety limit}{\insrsid9900553\charrsid3826080 ation}{\insrsid1457986\charrsid3826080 s on cosmetics generally }{\insrsid16141868\charrsid3826080 could pass.}{\insrsid11479825\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid7014697\charrsid3826080 S
}{\insrsid11479825\charrsid3826080 everal im}{\insrsid16350088\charrsid3826080 portant politi}{\insrsid12268846\charrsid3826080 ci}{\insrsid16350088\charrsid3826080 ans}{\insrsid9900553\charrsid3826080  helped shepherd}{\insrsid15751793\charrsid3826080 
 the first }{\insrsid11479825\charrsid3826080 safet}{\insrsid8277533\charrsid3826080 y regulation of cosmetics, with }{\insrsid9443188\charrsid3826080 the powerful Pres}{\insrsid16350088\charrsid3826080 ident Franklin D. Roosevelt a vital force}{
\insrsid9443188\charrsid3826080  among them.  Shortly after taking office, Roosevelt announced his support for strengthening of the Pure Foo}{\insrsid13504436\charrsid3826080 d and Drug Act of 1906, }{\insrsid5127311\charrsid3826080 thereby}{
\insrsid13504436\charrsid3826080  signaling }{\insrsid16350088\charrsid3826080 to agency and congressional actors that renew}{\insrsid13504436\charrsid3826080 ed efforts to }{\insrsid5127311\charrsid3826080 correct}{\insrsid13504436\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid5127311\charrsid3826080 the}{\insrsid13504436\charrsid3826080  lack of cosmetics regulation could now succeed}{\insrsid9443188\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid9443188\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Thomas J. Donegan, Jr.,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Fifty Years of Cosmetic Safety: A Government and Industry Partnership}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
50}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Food & Drug L.J. }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 151, 152 (1995).}}}{\insrsid16350088\charrsid3826080   One such actor, }{\insrsid16601694\charrsid3826080 physician and }{\insrsid9900553\charrsid3826080 
New York Senator Royal S. Copeland}{\insrsid16350088\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid8277533\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12268846\charrsid3826080 then }{\insrsid14048615\charrsid3826080 pushed the discussion}{\insrsid8989413\charrsid3826080  further}{
\insrsid12268846\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid16601694\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Hoge,}{\i\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 177, at 111 (noting that Senator Copeland entered politics as a physician and adopted the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act as \'93one of the major efforts of his public career\'94).}}}{\insrsid12268846\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid16350088\charrsid3826080  Copeland }{\insrsid16276248\charrsid3826080 took up the }{\insrsid11820603\charrsid3826080 slow }{\insrsid16276248\charrsid3826080 battle to regulate }{\insrsid3737489\charrsid3826080 cosmetics in 1933 after hearing from}
{\insrsid11164349\charrsid3826080  the}{\insrsid16276248\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11164349\charrsid3826080 Food and Drug Administration}{\insrsid14959034\charrsid3826080  (FDA)}{\insrsid16276248\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3737489\charrsid3826080 
that they }{\insrsid16276248\charrsid3826080 knew Koremlu, a depilatory }{\insrsid9443188\charrsid3826080 cream }{\insrsid16276248\charrsid3826080 containing thallium acetate,}{\insrsid3737489\charrsid3826080  was poisoning people,
 but lacked any authority to stop the harm}{\insrsid16276248\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid16276248\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Laura A. Heymann,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  The Cosmetic/Drug Dilemma: FDA Regulation of Alpha-
Hydroxy Acids,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 52 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Food & Drug L.J. }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
357, 362 (1997).  Individual damages suits eventually forced the maker of this cream into bankruptcy, but not before many people had gotten hurt.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{
\insrsid16276248\charrsid3826080   He }{\insrsid3737489\charrsid3826080 introduced}{\insrsid14628104\charrsid3826080 , although did not actually read,}{\insrsid3737489\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid14628104\charrsid3826080 a }{
\insrsid12268846\charrsid3826080 bill for }{\insrsid8989413\charrsid3826080 entirely }{\insrsid12268846\charrsid3826080 replacing the old Pure Food and Drug Act with}{\insrsid8989413\charrsid3826080 
 a new, more stringent food, drug, and cosmetics regulation}{\insrsid11820603\charrsid3826080 ,}{\cs16\super\insrsid16601694\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Developments in the Law}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , note 176}{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , at 635 n.16 (recounting that Copeland did not read the bill before introducing it, and later discovered that he himself did not support the bill\rquote 
s original version based on its granting the Secretary of Agriculture excessive power).}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }}}{\insrsid14628104\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3737489\charrsid3826080 which }{\insrsid8989413\charrsid3826080 bill }{
\insrsid3737489\charrsid3826080 became}{\insrsid11820603\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3737489\charrsid3826080 known as the \'93Tu}{\insrsid6491104\charrsid3826080 gwell Bill,\'94 after its general }{\insrsid3737489\charrsid3826080 sponsor}{
\insrsid8989413\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid3737489\charrsid3826080  Assistant Secretary of Agriculture Rexford Guy Tugwell.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3737489\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Vincent A. Kleinfeld, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Legislative History of the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 50 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Food & Drug L. J. }{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 65, 67-68 (1995).  Originally, Tugwell submitted his bill to the Chairmen of the House and Senate Committees on Agriculture, only turning to Copeland, of the Senate Committee on Commerce, after t
hese others had both refused to consider the bill.  Tugwell and his consultant David Cavers negatively perceived Copeland as someone who tended to compromise with rather than overcome opposition, and who lacked President Roosevelt\rquote s favor.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .  These suspect characteristics probably ended up proving valuable, as Copeland\rquote s reputation for conservatism likely helped offset Congress\rquote  hostility towards Tugwell.  }
{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 68, n.7.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Developments in the Law}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 176, at 634-35 n.15 (explaining that
 the first bill for the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act was drafted by those in charge of carrying out the 1906 Act, namely the FDA and the Solicitor\rquote s Office of the Department of Agriculture).}}}{\insrsid14628104\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid12799925\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3481148\charrsid3826080 However, it almost immediately}{\insrsid1391940\charrsid3826080  became clear to Copeland}{\insrsid11820603\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid1391940\charrsid3826080 that this o}{
\insrsid11820603\charrsid3826080 riginal bill would not pass, }{\insrsid3481148\charrsid3826080 and so }{\insrsid11820603\charrsid3826080 he had it revised before}{\insrsid1391940\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11820603\charrsid3826080 reintroducing}{
\insrsid12480657\charrsid3826080  it in 1934}{\insrsid1391940\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid1391940\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Kleinfeld, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 192, at 74.  None of the revisions specifically pertained to cosmetics, but they did effect cosmetics regulation insofar as the new bill made any regulations promulgated by the Secretary of Agriculture subject to suits to enjoin enforcement.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid7879216\charrsid3826080   This second}{\insrsid3481148\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid7879216\charrsid3826080  more moderate}{\insrsid1391940\charrsid3826080  bill }{
\insrsid11820603\charrsid3826080 though, }{\insrsid1391940\charrsid3826080 appeased none of the previous objectors and upset consumer groups, }{\insrsid13309415\charrsid3826080 and }{\insrsid1391940\charrsid3826080 so it too died in committee.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid1391940\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .  Opposition primarily arose regarding three 
points.  First, opposition came from the publishing industry, terrified of liability for printing mislabeled claims.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. at 75.  The next, third version of the bill would get rid of this opposition by eliminating publisher liability so long as the publish
er provided the Secretary of Agriculture with the name and address of the person who had caused dissemination of the offending advertisement.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. at 75.  Second, opposition arose regarding the Secretary of Agriculture\rquote s ability to set food standards, whic
h opposition would likewise diminish with the third version of the bill that allowed the Secretary to establish only one standard rather than multiple standards of food.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. at 75.  Third and finally, opposition arose from consumer groups that thought the bill too lax.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 74.}}}{\insrsid1391940\charrsid3826080   A third attempt}{
\insrsid11820603\charrsid3826080  followed, but continued t}{\insrsid7879216\charrsid3826080 o meet with resistance}{\insrsid11820603\charrsid3826080  and}{\insrsid13309415\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11820603\charrsid3826080 
died in committee as had its elder siblings.}{\cs16\super\insrsid11820603\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. at 75.  Major objections to the third bill centered on two issues.  First, people debated how strictly to define misbranding, how much leeway to leave for puffery.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
.  Secondly, people argued about whether to enact a new act at all as opposed to just revising the current Pure Food and Drug Act, which existent Act had the advantage of twenty-seven years of court decisions construing it.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid13309415\charrsid3826080   Finally,}{\insrsid3481148\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12480657\charrsid3826080 the following year, }{\insrsid3481148\charrsid3826080 
a fourth bill }{\insrsid1391940\charrsid3826080 did make it through the Senate Committee}{\insrsid1457986\charrsid3826080  on Commerce}{\insrsid3481148\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid3481148\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 77-78 (discussing the fourth bill, which actually differed very little from the third bill, but somehow managed to push through committee regardless).}}}{
\insrsid3481148\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid1391940\charrsid3826080 Copeland}{\insrsid1457986\charrsid3826080  then}{\insrsid1391940\charrsid3826080  int}{\insrsid3481148\charrsid3826080 roduced this fourth bill to the }{\insrsid14048615\charrsid3826080 
Senate, punctuating his presentation with }{\insrsid9849281\charrsid3826080 pictures of the women recently blinded by mascara,}{\cs16\super\insrsid9849281\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Donegan,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 188, at 152 (stating that Copeland focused on women blinded by mascara when introducing the legislation, despite industry\rquote s contention that the supposed rash of blinding had never occurred).  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Greff,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 147, at 244 (stating that, during the 1934 debates, Copeland presented \'93
before and after pictures of beautiful women who from use of Lash Lure [mascara] went blind\'94).}}}{\insrsid9849281\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3481148\charrsid3826080 and Roosevelt publicly stated his hope that}{\insrsid9849281\charrsid3826080  the bill}
{\insrsid1391940\charrsid3826080  would pass.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3481148\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Kleinfeld, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 192, at 82.}}}{\insrsid15756550\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080 Thenceforth, the bill bounced back and forth between the Senate and the House for the rest of the 1935 session, with approximately forty significant changes made to it during the process.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid267533 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. at 78-90.  Arguments included: whether the FDA should have power to make multiple seizures, whether the FDA or FTC should regulate food and drug advertisements, and whether cosmetics should become regulated at all.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080   Ultimately, the House rejected the bill}{\insrsid1457986\charrsid3826080  as misallocating }{\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080 power between the FDA and the F}{
\insrsid1457986\charrsid3826080 ederal }{\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080 T}{\insrsid1457986\charrsid3826080 rade }{\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080 C}{\insrsid11164349\charrsid3826080 ommission}{\insrsid14959034\charrsid3826080  (FTC)}{
\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080 ,}{\cs16\super\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid267533 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 
{\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Whether the F
DA or the FTC should control false and misleading advertisements for food, drugs, and cosmetics remained a perennial dispute throughout the five year process of getting the new safety regulation passed, with the House consistently favoring FTC control and
 the Senate consistently favoring FDA control.  Tousley,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 148, at 260.}}}{\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080  and so the bill died.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid267533 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Kleinfeld, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 192, at 90.}}}{\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080 
  A fifth bill entered the 1936 session of Congress though, and, after two years of debate and one highly-publicized drug disaster,}{\cs16\super\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid267533 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 When ninety people died from the solvent diethylene glycol in the drug Elixir Sulfanilamide-Massengill, which its manufacturer had tested 
for flavor but not effect, public pressure ensured that the House finally agreed to pass the new food, drug, and cosmetic safety regulation.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. at 92.  That more people did not die from this elixir of sulfanilamide was due to FDA officials creatively rea
lizing that, even though they lacked authority to seize the drug for deadliness, they could seize the drug on the misbranding technicality of calling itself an \'93elixir\'94
 without actually containing any alcohol, as required by the United States Pharmacopoeia\rquote s definition of elixirs.  Tousley,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 148, at 261 n.5.}}}{\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080  finally passed}{\insrsid14246119\charrsid3826080  as the Food, Drug}{\insrsid12799925\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid14246119\charrsid3826080  and Cosmetic Act}{\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid267533 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Kleinfeld, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 192, at 91-99.  Debates prior to the bill\rquote 
s passage continued to focus on misbranding provisions, seizure action provisions, allocation of advertising regulation, and what options industry would have for contesting the Secretary of Agriculture\rquote s future standards and rulings.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid4592318\charrsid3826080 
  While neither the congressional debates nor the final text of the statute focused on lipstick directly, the Act did dramatically impact lipstick safety due to rules }{\insrsid13569302\charrsid3826080 that cosmetics could}{
\insrsid10833632\charrsid3826080  not contain \'93poisonous\'94 or \'93deleterious\'94 substances }{\insrsid2980596\charrsid3826080 in such quantities as might render the cosmetics injurious,}{\cs16\super\insrsid2980596\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  21 C.F.R. \'a7
 700 (2006).}}}{\insrsid2980596\charrsid3826080  and}{\insrsid10833632\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid2980596\charrsid3826080 cosmetics labeling could not}{\insrsid10833632\charrsid3826080  make false or misleading claims}{\insrsid4525482\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid13569302\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  21 C.F.R. \'a7 701 (2006).  In short, the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act prohibits adulteration and misbranding of cosme
tics, which means that the FDA can deem lipstick illegal either for its substance or for its labeling.  Heymann,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 190, at 363.}}}{\insrsid4525482\charrsid3826080 
  Unlike most provisions of the Act, which did not take effect until one year after the Act\rquote s final presidential approval, these injurious cosmetics provisions went into immediate effect along with the Act\rquote s other two }{
\insrsid6639967\charrsid3826080 deemed }{\insrsid4525482\charrsid3826080 urgent provisions pertaining to poisonous drugs and new drug approval.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4525482\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Tousley,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 148, at 263.  Compare this immediate enforcement of the cosmetics safety provisions to the amblin
g enforcement of labeling provisions, which provisions\rquote  effectiveness was first postponed by amendment to January 1940, and then made further postponable at the Secretary of Agriculture\rquote s discretion until June 1940.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid13569302\charrsid3826080 
\par }{\insrsid14048615\charrsid3826080 \tab }{\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080 I}{\insrsid14048615\charrsid3826080 nfluential}{\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080  throughout this process}{\insrsid14048615\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid15751793\charrsid3826080 were }{
\insrsid14182428\charrsid3826080 women\rquote s }{\insrsid14048615\charrsid3826080 lobbying }{\insrsid16458625\charrsid3826080 and manufacturer}{\insrsid15751793\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid14183546\charrsid3826080 \rquote  lack thereof}{
\insrsid15751793\charrsid3826080 .  Women\rquote s lobbying }{\insrsid14048615\charrsid3826080 in favor of food, drug, and cosmet}{\insrsid14182428\charrsid3826080 ics regulation }{\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080 continuously }{
\insrsid14182428\charrsid3826080 increased in terms of both numbers}{\insrsid14048615\charrsid3826080  and intensity.  }{\insrsid853958\charrsid3826080 T}{\insrsid14182428\charrsid3826080 he coalition of women\rquote s interest groups}{
\insrsid853958\charrsid3826080  expanded}{\insrsid14048615\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid853958\charrsid3826080 from the originally active}{\cs23\insrsid853958\charrsid3826080  American Home Economics Association and National Congress of Parents and Teachers
}{\insrsid853958\charrsid3826080 , which had supported regulation since the original Tugwell Bill, }{\insrsid14048615\charrsid3826080 to sixteen national organizations}{\insrsid14182428\charrsid3826080 ,}{\cs16\super\insrsid14048615\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Louise G. Baldwin & Florence Kirlin,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 The New Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Legislation}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 6 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
Law & Contemp. Probs. }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 144, 144 n.1 (1939) (listing the sixteen involved organizations as the: American Association of University Women, }{\cs23\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
American Dietetic Association, American Home Economics Association, American Medical Women\rquote s Association, American Nurses Association, Council of Women for Home Missions, General Federation of Women\rquote 
s Clubs, Girls Friendly Society of the U.S. of America, National Board of the Y.W.C.A., National Congress of Parents and Teachers, National Consumers\rquote  League, National Council of Jewish Women, National League of Women Voters, National Women\rquote 
s Trade Union League, Women\rquote s Christian Temperance Union, and Women\rquote s National Homeopathic Medical Fraternity}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ). }}}{\insrsid14048615\charrsid3826080  all \'93represented at every hearing\'94}{
\insrsid14182428\charrsid3826080  and engaged}{\insrsid14048615\charrsid3826080  in \'93quiet steady lobbying.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid14048615\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 144.}}}{\insrsid267533\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12274710\charrsid3826080  T
hese groups did not end up entirely delighted with the final Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, for reasons such as its failure to mandate }{\insrsid14246119\charrsid3826080 ingredients }{\insrsid12274710\charrsid3826080 listing on all cosmetics }{
\insrsid8594161\charrsid3826080 products for direct-to-consumer}{\insrsid12274710\charrsid3826080  and professional sale}{\insrsid14246119\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid14246119\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 146.  Campaigning for such ingredient listing came from a concern for allergic reactions.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{
\insrsid14246119\charrsid3826080   However, they considered the requirement that government review all coal tar coloring}{\insrsid8594161\charrsid3826080  a significant win, despite the exception for hair products}{\insrsid14246119\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid14246119\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 147.  Before the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act passed, }{\cs23\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \'93
approximately fourteen hundred different shades [of coal tar dye were] used in cosmetics,\'94 with industry claiming \'93some 90 to 100 separate colors\'94 as \'93essential.\'94  }{\cs23\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{
\cs23\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid8594161\charrsid3826080   At final evaluation, none of the}{\insrsid1601398\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid8594161\charrsid3826080 women\rquote s gr}{\insrsid13060328\charrsid3826080 
oups supported the final Act in }{\insrsid8594161\charrsid3826080 its entirety, but they did consider it a very respectable start that they could hopefully later strengthen through amendments.}{\cs16\super\insrsid8594161\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 145.}}}{\insrsid10563774\charrsid3826080   W}{\insrsid9512634\charrsid3826080 hile}{\insrsid10563774\charrsid3826080  this women\rquote s lobbying went on}{
\insrsid9512634\charrsid3826080 , the cosmetics industry did not protest, and even qualifiedly supported, federal cosmetics regulation.  Such }{\insrsid16189828\charrsid3826080 a reversal of previous}{\insrsid9512634\charrsid3826080  industry position re
sulted largely from the }{\insrsid15751793\charrsid3826080 growing}{\insrsid9512634\charrsid3826080 
 patchwork of state cosmetics regulations; rather than remain subject to a multitude of state regulations that varied widely in scope and stringency, the cosmetics industry preferred one set of uniform national rules.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid9512634\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Tousley,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 148, at 261.}}}{\insrsid12131272\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid15751793\charrsid3826080 
\par \tab Indeed, state regulation of lipstick an}{\insrsid11164349\charrsid3826080 d other cosmetics sprouted in all directions during the 1930s}{\insrsid13196895\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid1462730\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Cosmetics regulation did not approach the level of food and drug regulation though, as every state except New Mexico had }{\cs23\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 laws regulating the manufacture and sale of adulterated and misbranded food and drugs}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  by the time that the federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act passed.  Ole Salthe,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 State Food, Drug and Cosmetic Legislation and its Administration,}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  6 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Law & Contemp. Probs. }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 165, 167 (1939).}}}{\insrsid13196895\charrsid3826080   Regulation ranged}{\insrsid16452959\charrsid3826080 
 from the strikingly exacting}{\insrsid13196895\charrsid3826080  Maine l}{\insrsid16452959\charrsid3826080 aw, to several other }{\insrsid13196895\charrsid3826080 strict but}{\insrsid16452959\charrsid3826080  mor}{\insrsid2297684\charrsid3826080 
e limited state laws, to a }{\insrsid16452959\charrsid3826080 range of state imitations of the }{\insrsid13196895\charrsid3826080 pending federal legislation}{\insrsid11164349\charrsid3826080 .  }{\insrsid16189828\charrsid3826080 Maine }{
\insrsid11164349\charrsid3826080 enacted }{\insrsid3230394\charrsid3826080 perhaps }{\insrsid11164349\charrsid3826080 the most protective}{\insrsid7405581\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid16189828\charrsid3826080 law}{\insrsid11164349\charrsid3826080 , which}{
\insrsid16189828\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11164349\charrsid3826080 compelled}{\insrsid16189828\charrsid3826080  manufacturers to register all cosmetics formulas with the State Department of Health}{\insrsid13331926\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid16189828\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 hillips}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 31, at 232.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Tousley,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 148, at 260-61 (characterizing the Maine law as a most important piece of state cosmetics regulation).  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 But see}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Hoge,}{\i\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 177, at 112 n.5 (dismissing the Maine statute as providing little real supervision, in spite of the statute\rquote s seemingly strong text, and in contrast to most commentators
\rquote  view of the statute).}}}{\insrsid16189828\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid4215112\charrsid3826080  Under the Maine Act for the Regulation of Cosmetics:
\par }\pard \qj \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid3041037 {\insrsid15495903\charrsid3826080 No person, firm, corporation
 or copartnership shall hold for sale, sell, offer for sale, in intrastate commerce, give away, deal in, within this state, supply or apply in the conduct of a beauty shop, barber shop, hairdressing establishment or similar establishment, any cosmetic pre
paration unless the said preparation has been registered with and a certificate of registration secured from the department of health and welfare.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4215112\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  1935 Me. Laws 109 \'a71.}}}{
\insrsid5263555\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid5263555 {\insrsid5263555\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid2297684 {\insrsid15495903\charrsid3826080 Registration required paying an initial inspection fee and annual renewal fee, and failure to register or di
stribution after registration rejection could result in product seizure and fines.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5263555\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Bourjois, Inc. v. Chapman, 301 U.S. 183, 185 (1937) (cosmetics company unsuccessfully protesting against this registration system).}}}{\insrsid5263555\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid1270960\charrsid3826080 
Said registration rejection could occur at the Maine Department of Health\rquote s discretion; the Act authorized the health department to refuse certificates of registration to 
any cosmetics that it judged to contain injurious substances in amounts that could prove poisonous, injurious, or detrimental to a person.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1270960\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Salthe,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 213, at 170-71.}}}{\insrsid1270960\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid14897647\charrsid3826080 M}{\insrsid4215112\charrsid3826080 anufacturers
}{\insrsid14897647\charrsid3826080 , predictably enough,}{\insrsid4215112\charrsid3826080  almost immediately }{\insrsid13331926\charrsid3826080 challenged the constitutio}{\insrsid4215112\charrsid3826080 nality of this measure, attempted t
o have its enforcement temporarily and permanently enjoined.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4215112\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 hillips}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 31, at 232.  }}}{\insrsid4215112\charrsid3826080   The United States Supreme Court, however, }{\insrsid10832181\charrsid3826080 definitively denied}{
\insrsid7020249\charrsid3826080  these attempts}{\insrsid4215112\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid10832181\charrsid3826080 with}{\insrsid7405581\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid7405581\charrsid3826080 Bourjois, Inc. v. Chapman}{\insrsid13331926\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid7405581\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Bourjois, Inc., 301 U.S. 183 at 186 (ruling against Bourjois, Inc. on all counts).}}}{\insrsid9052115\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid3239410\charrsid3826080 
Justice Brandeis, writing for the unanimous majority, summed up the Court\rquote s response to the manufacturer\rquote s constitutional claims with: \'93
Sixteen distinct grounds of invalidity are urged with great earnestness.  None is well founded.  Only a few need to be discussed.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid3239410\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .  New York corporation Bourjois, Inc.
 challenged the Maine cosmetics law in Maine federal court and then in the Supreme Court as void under several provisions of both the State and Federal Constitutions.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. at 184-85.  In response, the Supreme Court rejected all of Bourjois\rquote  claims, affirming the prior rejection of most claims without comment, and then explaining its affirmation of the rejection of Bourjois\rquote 
 Commerce Clause and Fourteenth Amendment claims.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 186-90.  The Court found that Maine\rquote s cosmetics legislation did not unduly bur
den interstate commerce under the Commerce Clause, because: (1) the statute limited its operation to intrastate commerce by banning only the }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 sale}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  of unregistered cosmetics }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 within}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Maine and applying equally to all cosmetics, whether manufactured in or out of state, and (2) the statute\rquote 
s fifty-cent inspection and annual renewal fees were not unreasonable on their face, and Bourjois had failed to prove them otherwise.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 186-88.  Then, the Court found that Maine
\rquote s cosmetics legislation also did not violate the Fourteenth Amendment\rquote 
s Due Process Clause, or due process under the Maine Constitution, because nothing prohibited delegating safety certification authority to executive agencies, and applicants could appeal denials of cosmetics safety certification 
to state superior courts.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 188-89.  The Court also mentioned in closing that Bourjois lacked standing to object to the Maine statute\rquote 
s provisions regarding forfeit and seizure of unregistered cosmetics, because, by the time that any of Bourjois\rquote  out-of-state goods reached Maine, those goods would belong to someone else.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 190.}}}{\insrsid10832181\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid2522228\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid2522228 {\insrsid10832181\charrsid3826080 Other states also had strict, but piecemeal cosmetics regulations.  For example, }{
\insrsid12203074\charrsid3826080 New Jersey prohibited use of methyl alcohol in cosmetics, }{\insrsid10832181\charrsid3826080 Kentucky}{\insrsid12203074\charrsid3826080  banned }{\insrsid10832181\charrsid3826080 
poisonous and dangerous eyebrow and eyelash dyes, and New Hampshire banned the aforesaid dyes as well as lead-based hair dyes.}{\cs16\super\insrsid10832181\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 hillips}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 31, at 231.  }}}{\insrsid10832181\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid2522228\charrsid3826080 
Florida too had something of a cosmetics regulation, insofar as Florida\rquote s Toilet Articles Misbranding Law}{\cs23\insrsid2522228\charrsid3826080  required that, if the retail seller\rquote s name appeared on a cosmetics label, then the manufacturer
\rquote s name and address must appear on the label as well.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2522228\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Salthe,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 213, at 170.}}}{\cs23\insrsid8871467\charrsid3826080   Such regula}{\cs23\insrsid11170153\charrsid3826080 tions a}{\cs23\insrsid14550371\charrsid3826080 s these did not directly improve }{
\cs23\insrsid11170153\charrsid3826080 lipstick safety}{\cs23\insrsid8871467\charrsid3826080 , but }{\cs23\insrsid12472880\charrsid3826080 they did }{\cs23\insrsid8871467\charrsid3826080 indirectly }{\cs23\insrsid12472880\charrsid3826080 promote}{
\cs23\insrsid8871467\charrsid3826080  lipstick}{\cs23\insrsid7824631\charrsid3826080  safety}{\cs23\insrsid11170153\charrsid3826080  by}{\cs23\insrsid12472880\charrsid3826080  helping to re-conceptualize}{\cs23\insrsid11170153\charrsid3826080  c}{
\cs23\insrsid12472880\charrsid3826080 osmetics as regulable items and to impel cosmetics manufacturers to support}{\cs23\insrsid14550371\charrsid3826080  }{\cs23\insrsid12472880\charrsid3826080 broad }{\cs23\insrsid14550371\charrsid3826080 
federal regulation as a preferable alternative to }{\cs23\insrsid12472880\charrsid3826080 the }{\cs23\insrsid14550371\charrsid3826080 otherwise inevitable state regulation}{\cs23\insrsid8871467\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid2522228\charrsid3826080 
\par }{\insrsid30975\charrsid3826080 Three}{\insrsid9052115\charrsid3826080  states, Louisiana}{\insrsid30975\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid6815868\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid30975\charrsid3826080 Virginia, and }{\insrsid6570738\charrsid3826080 Nor}{
\insrsid9052115\charrsid3826080 t}{\insrsid6570738\charrsid3826080 h}{\insrsid9052115\charrsid3826080  Dakota}{\insrsid6815868\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid9052115\charrsid3826080  passed comprehens}{\insrsid30975\charrsid3826080 ive }{
\insrsid9052115\charrsid3826080 co}{\insrsid30975\charrsid3826080 smetics laws that}{\insrsid9052115\charrsid3826080  borrowed heavily from differing portions of the pending federal legislation.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2174164\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Tousley,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 148, at 261.}}}{\insrsid10554091\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid6815868\charrsid3826080 Louisiana\rquote s }{
\insrsid30975\charrsid3826080 Cosmetic L}{\insrsid6815868\charrsid3826080 aw }{\insrsid30975\charrsid3826080 essentially}{\insrsid6815868\charrsid3826080  copied version S.5 of the pending Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act,}{\insrsid1270960\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid6570738\charrsid3826080 and}{\insrsid30975\charrsid3826080  required registration of every}{\insrsid6815868\charrsid3826080  cosmetics product.}{\cs16\super\insrsid30975\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Salthe,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 213, at 170.}}}{\insrsid30975\charrsid3826080   However, for}{\insrsid13196895\charrsid3826080  all this registration }{
\insrsid16452959\charrsid3826080 rigor}{\insrsid30975\charrsid3826080 , Louisiana evidently favored a }{\insrsid1576130\charrsid3826080 considerably }{\insrsid30975\charrsid3826080 more moderate approach }{\insrsid1576130\charrsid3826080 
to cosmetics regulation}{\insrsid13196895\charrsid3826080  than did its}{\insrsid1576130\charrsid3826080  federal }{\insrsid13196895\charrsid3826080 and state contemporaries}{\insrsid1576130\charrsid3826080 .  }{\insrsid4527340\charrsid3826080 I}{
\insrsid1576130\charrsid3826080 nstead of using the }{\insrsid13196895\charrsid3826080 registration process to }{\insrsid14550371\charrsid3826080 preemptively}{\insrsid13196895\charrsid3826080  eliminate}{\insrsid1576130\charrsid3826080  p}{
\insrsid13196895\charrsid3826080 oisonous cosmetics, Louisiana used the registration process to ensure }{\insrsid1270960\charrsid3826080 merely }{\insrsid13196895\charrsid3826080 that}{\insrsid1576130\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid10554091\charrsid3826080 
cosmetics }{\insrsid1576130\charrsid3826080 containing poisons indicate}{\insrsid13196895\charrsid3826080 d}{\insrsid1576130\charrsid3826080  the}{\insrsid10554091\charrsid3826080  fact on their labels.}{\cs16\super\insrsid10554091\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 hillips}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 31, at 231.  }}}{\insrsid1115871\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid6815868\charrsid3826080 Virginia
}{\insrsid2522228\charrsid3826080 \rquote s Cosmetic Permit Law}{\insrsid12472880\charrsid3826080  similarly emulated a draft of the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act}{\insrsid2641043\charrsid3826080 
, complete with a registration process and definitions of adulterated and misbranded cosmetics}{\insrsid12472880\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid6815868\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Salthe,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 213, at 171.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Hoge,}{
\i\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 177, at 112 n.5 (emphasizing the importance of the Virginia law).}}}{\insrsid12472880\charrsid3826080   Unlike Louisiana}{
\insrsid7289518\charrsid3826080  though, Virginia}{\insrsid1270960\charrsid3826080  intensified the}{\insrsid2641043\charrsid3826080  federal model}{\insrsid1270960\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid12472880\charrsid3826080  by not only 
prohibiting the sale of cosmetics without a permit but also prohibiting the }{\insrsid996118\charrsid3826080 very }{\insrsid12472880\charrsid3826080 manufacture of cosmetics by any person not pre-approved by the Virginia Board of Pharmacy.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid12472880\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Salthe,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 213, at 171.  }}}{\insrsid12337270\charrsid3826080   In between these two extremes,}
{\insrsid1270960\charrsid3826080  North Dakota\rquote s }{\insrsid12337270\charrsid3826080 Cosmetic Act most closely resembled the final Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act provisions}{\insrsid6570738\charrsid3826080 
, as North Dakota took the final version of the pending federal cosmetics legislation for its model}{\insrsid12337270\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid12337270\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid12337270\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7014697\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5534117\charrsid3826080 Given this onslaught of divergent state and dramatic federal regulations}{
\insrsid7014697\charrsid3826080 , the }{\insrsid5534117\charrsid3826080 American 1930s}{\insrsid7014697\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5534117\charrsid3826080 represents among the most important chapters in lipstick\rquote 
s legal regulatory history.  Ironically, despite the moment\rquote s obvious importance now, and all of the political turmoil and public activism that }{\insrsid4916397\charrsid3826080 surrounded it}{\insrsid5534117\charrsid3826080 
 even at the time, the first safety regulations of lipstick and other cosmetics}{\insrsid4916397\charrsid3826080  slipped by }{\insrsid5534117\charrsid3826080 unnoticed}{\insrsid4916397\charrsid3826080  by the general populace}{
\insrsid5534117\charrsid3826080 .  One writer of the era exclaimed: 
\par }\pard \qj \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid3041037 {\insrsid5534117\charrsid3826080 
Except in the trade papers, no piece of major legislation [referring to the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act] has received less publicity and attention.  }{\insrsid4271662\charrsid3826080 During the five years the [Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act] was}{
\insrsid5534117\charrsid3826080  considered in Congress it was seldom mentioned in the general press, and it has received little attention during the two years that have elapsed since its passage.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid5534117\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Tousley,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 148, at 259.}}}{\insrsid12472880\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid5658524 {\insrsid5658524\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid5534117 {\insrsid5534117\charrsid3826080 Hence, with }{\insrsid4916397\charrsid3826080 the importance
 of lipstick safety regulation established in the law}{\insrsid5534117\charrsid3826080  but not }{\insrsid4916397\charrsid3826080 yet embedded}{\insrsid5534117\charrsid3826080  in the public conscious, }{\insrsid13060328\charrsid3826080 
lipstick encountered}{\insrsid4916397\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5534117\charrsid3826080 the 1940s.
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid1270960 {\i\insrsid7946110\charrsid3826080 1940s}{\insrsid14306461\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid7212620 {\insrsid2950371\charrsid3826080 \tab American l}{\insrsid11156646\charrsid3826080 ipstick production and consumption managed to flourish }{
\insrsid7748110\charrsid3826080 still }{\insrsid11156646\charrsid3826080 further in the eye of World War II.  }{\insrsid7212620\charrsid3826080 With lipstick by this point firmly established as big business, lipstick producers\rquote  marketing}{
\insrsid2950371\charrsid3826080 , both in terms of advocating lipstick generally and in terms of promoting individual brands,}{\insrsid7212620\charrsid3826080  grew more sophisticated.}{\cs16\super\insrsid8716968\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Despite lipstick
\rquote s big business sales and marketing levels though, most lipstick was still made by hand, and the most advanced machines could only make one-hundred and forty-four sticks in a batch.  Brewster,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 158, at 107.}}}{\insrsid11220640\charrsid3826080   Manufacturers}{\insrsid10626302\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7748110\charrsid3826080 sold lipstick as not a dishonorable f
rivolity}{\insrsid2950371\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid7748110\charrsid3826080  but rather a vital part of the war effort; they turned lipstick into a symbol of resilient femininity in the face of danger}{\insrsid10626302\charrsid3826080 , a symbol}{
\insrsid7748110\charrsid3826080  that would boost the morale of both the women wearing the lipstick and the male soldiers who saw such attractive American females.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9137162\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Vogue}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  magazine encouraged women to take lipstick application seriously, advising: \'93paint your lips as an artist would,\'94 using a brush and combining multiple shades of lipstick.  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 519.}}}{\insrsid7212620\charrsid3826080   Tangee, still one of America\rquote 
s biggest lipstick companies at the time, launched a \'93War, Women, and Lipstick\'94 campaign promoting lipstick as a patriotic instrument of personal morale.}{\cs16\super\insrsid7212620\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 21-22.}}}{\insrsid5321028\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid7212620\charrsid3826080 
Commissioned studies showed make-up an effective morale builder, and so }{\insrsid7748110\charrsid3826080 led the U.S. Director}{\insrsid7212620\charrsid3826080  of Economic Stabilization }{\insrsid10626302\charrsid3826080 to order}{
\insrsid2950371\charrsid3826080  factory dressing rooms }{\insrsid7212620\charrsid3826080 stocked with lipstick to improve female workers\rquote  efficiency.}{\cs16\super\insrsid7212620\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 22.}}}{\insrsid7212620\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid2711154\charrsid3826080 Even the Marines had an official, mandatory \'93Montezuma Red\'94 lipstick intended to match the 
trim on women\rquote s hats.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2711154\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Amy Argetsinger,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Academy Weighs New Tailor for the Female Sailor,}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Wash. Post, }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Oct. 28, 1995, at A1.  Indeed, the rule that female marines must wear lipstick continued up through the early 1990s.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Kenneth L. Karst, Note,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 The Pursuit of Manhood and the Desegregation of the Armed Forces, }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 38 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 UCLA L. Rev. }{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 499 (1991) }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 (}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 relating that a 1980s training manual \'93require[d] recruits to wear makeup, with lipstick and eye shadow the allowable minimum\'94
); Julie Yuki Ralston, Note, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Geishas, Gays and Grunts: What the Exploitation of Asian Pacific Women Reveals About Military Culture and  the Legal Ban on Lesbian, Gay, and Bisexual Service Members}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 16 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Law & Ineq. J.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  661}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 (1998) (pointing out that: \'93
a Marine recruit training manual used after the Gulf War stated that female recruits would be given \lquote instruction in hair care, techniques of make-up application, guidance on poise, and etiquette,\rquote  \'94 and would also be \'93
issued official lipstick during boot camp.\'94).}}}{\insrsid2711154\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid11220640\charrsid3826080 As well as selling their theory of lipstick to the public generally, manufacturers also began selling}{
\insrsid7748110\charrsid3826080  particul}{\insrsid11220640\charrsid3826080 ar brands of lipstick to more narrowly targeted clientele, marketing particular lines of lipstick as appropriate to specific}{\insrsid7748110\charrsid3826080  types of women.}{
\insrsid11220640\charrsid3826080   For example, 1940s marketing executives later explained that they did Maybelline for \'93not too intelligent girls,\'94 Revlon \'93for tarts,\'94 and Cover Girl \'93for the nice girls.\'94}{
\cs16\super\insrsid11220640\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Boock}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 60, at 38.}}}{\insrsid2711154\charrsid3826080 

\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid2950371 {\insrsid11220640\charrsid3826080 \tab }{\insrsid10626302\charrsid3826080 Such marketing met with high }{\insrsid2950371\charrsid3826080 
consumption, a consumption }{\insrsid10626302\charrsid3826080 likely driven in part }{\insrsid11220640\charrsid3826080 
by excitement over new products, in part by the escapism that historically characterizes troubled times, and in part by increased assurance of lipstick\rquote s safety}{\insrsid10626302\charrsid3826080 .  }{\insrsid7212620\charrsid3826080 
Although the war did force the replacement of metal cases with first plastic cases and then, eventually, paper ones, lipstick generally became only}{\insrsid7748110\charrsid3826080  more elaborate}{\insrsid10626302\charrsid3826080  and advanced}{
\insrsid7212620\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid7212620\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 27.}}}{\insrsid7748110\charrsid3826080   For }{\insrsid5058645\charrsid3826080 example, lipsticks began to come disguised as other objects}{
\insrsid7748110\charrsid3826080 , such as binoculars, or equipped with accessories, such as emergency flashlights in case of blackout.}{\cs16\super\insrsid7748110\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 115.}}}{\insrsid14428722\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid2950371\charrsid3826080 
Gala of London offered a refillable lipstick called \'93Lipline,\'94 which became popular both sides of the ocean.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2950371\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid2950371 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 27.}
}}{\insrsid2950371\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid10421270\charrsid3826080 Max Factor developed}{\insrsid16405564\charrsid3826080  the first truly indelible}{\insrsid5058645\charrsid3826080  lipstick}{\insrsid16405564\charrsid3826080 
, in the sense of long-lasting rather th}{\insrsid5058645\charrsid3826080 an of permanent, }{\insrsid659323\charrsid3826080 titled}{\insrsid16405564\charrsid3826080  Tru-Color.}{\cs16\super\insrsid16405564\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 24 (acclaiming Max Factor\rquote s lipstick as the first non-irritating, long-lasting formula that did not change color after application).  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
But see}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Brewster,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
note 158, at 107 (noting that indelible lipsticks possessed a discouragingly bitter taste until manufacturers finally came up with a truly workable formula in the 1950s).}}}{\insrsid9649922\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5519190\charrsid3826080 
Goya introduced the first lip liner in the form of its \'93Thick and Thin\'94 lipstick, a set of two tubes}{\insrsid10834261\charrsid3826080  linked by a chain,}{\insrsid5519190\charrsid3826080  with the \'93thick\'94 tube containing lipstick and the \'93
thin\'94 tube containing a lip pencil for outlining lips.}{\cs16\super\insrsid10834261\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 162.  Goya also came up with a \'93Grandee lipstick\'94 twice the size of normal lipstick, but this innovation did not fare as well over time. R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 27.}
}}{\insrsid10834261\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5058645\charrsid3826080 Along with these new or improved varieties of lipstick, }{\insrsid11809941\charrsid3826080 there also appeared new playful packaging}{\insrsid5058645\charrsid3826080  to entice buyers
}{\insrsid10834261\charrsid3826080  wishing to escape wartime\rquote s somberness}{\insrsid5058645\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid5519190\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid11809941\charrsid3826080 Some lipsticks opened in novel manners, such as Clairol\rquote 
s patented }{\insrsid5519190\charrsid3826080 lipstick that opened like a switchblade.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5519190\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid5519190 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 11, at 52.}}}{\insrsid5519190\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid11809941\charrsid3826080 Many lipsticks r}{\insrsid15619582\charrsid3826080 
eceived newly playful names, an}{\insrsid11809941\charrsid3826080  idea originated by }{\insrsid7748110\charrsid3826080 Revlon}{\insrsid11809941\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid7748110\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 65.}
}}{\insrsid11809941\charrsid3826080   And, by the latter half of the decade}{\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid11809941\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid16652821\charrsid3826080 Elizabeth Arden had profitably embraced}{\insrsid2950371\charrsid3826080 
 }{\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080 the emphasis}{\insrsid2950371\charrsid3826080  on color and}{\insrsid1462730\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid2950371\charrsid3826080 novelty packaging }{\insrsid16652821\charrsid3826080 by offering}{
\insrsid11809941\charrsid3826080  matching lip}{\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080 stick and nai}{\insrsid7746499\charrsid3826080 l }{\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080 polish sets}{\insrsid11809941\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid11809941\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 162.}}}{\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080 
  With all of these }{\insrsid7746499\charrsid3826080 product }{\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080 options and }{\insrsid7746499\charrsid3826080 packaging styles}{\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080 , and }{\insrsid16652821\charrsid3826080 with }{
\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080 the Food, Drug, and Co}{\insrsid7746499\charrsid3826080 smetic Act finally in place to}{\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080  monitor their safety,}{\cs16\super\insrsid16652821\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Among the first safety rules issued under the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act was that the coal tar dyes previously used in lipsticks with abandon now required approval before use, and testing on mice before approval.  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 519.}}}{\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid9512222\charrsid3826080 more }{
\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080 American women spent more money }{\insrsid9512222\charrsid3826080 on lipstick than ever before}{\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080 .  In 1941, Americans spent twenty million dollars on lipstick.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 520.}}}{\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080   That figure}{\insrsid7957631\charrsid3826080 , by 1946,}{\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080 
 had crept up to thirty million dollars spent on five-thousa}{\insrsid7957631\charrsid3826080 nd tons of lipstick}{\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid16449973\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 528.}}}{\insrsid9512222\charrsid3826080   Ninety percent of American women wore lipstick.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9512222\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Brewster,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 158, at 107.}}}{\insrsid10626302\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid10626302 {\insrsid4338589\charrsid3826080 \tab }{\insrsid2575204\charrsid3826080 
While consumer focus remained intent upon lipstick, American regulatory focus generally turned elsewhere during the war and its aftermath.  }{\insrsid4338589\charrsid3826080 The new federal Food, Drug, and Cosme}{\insrsid11554702\charrsid3826080 
tic Act had just begun taking effect}{\insrsid9512222\charrsid3826080 , and so safety improvements}{\insrsid4338589\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid9512222\charrsid3826080 did occur}{\insrsid2575204\charrsid3826080  in accordance with the Act\rquote s}{
\insrsid4338589\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11554702\charrsid3826080 recently passed rules}{\insrsid918256\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid1462730\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Lipstick still had not become e
ntirely problem-free, but most of the remaining problems involved non-lethal harms, such as allergic reactions to the dyes in lipsticks.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  id}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . (recounting that Dr. Waldemar Schweisheimer named dyes in cosmetics as the seventh most common cause of dermatitis, well behind perfumes reacting with sunlight).  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 hillips}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 31, at 46-47 (writing that: \'93
on the whole, lipstick is probably a harmless cosmetic,\'94 with possible dangers arising largely from the dyes used, and even then the dangers mostly of an allergen nature).}}}{\insrsid918256\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid142211\charrsid3826080 Almost no }
{\insrsid918256\charrsid3826080 new law}{\insrsid12066557\charrsid3826080 , safety or social,}{\insrsid918256\charrsid3826080  emerged though}{\insrsid12066557\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid918256\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid142211\charrsid3826080 the
 one exception being}{\insrsid12066557\charrsid3826080  a}{\insrsid918256\charrsid3826080  federal luxury tax on lipstick}{\insrsid142211\charrsid3826080  that allowed }{\insrsid918256\charrsid3826080 the government}{\insrsid2575204\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid10309731\charrsid3826080 to wres}{\insrsid142211\charrsid3826080 t}{\insrsid12066557\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid142211\charrsid3826080 approximately}{\insrsid2575204\charrsid3826080  six million dollar}{\insrsid12066557\charrsid3826080 s}{
\insrsid2575204\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12066557\charrsid3826080 annually }{\insrsid142211\charrsid3826080 from the }{\insrsid4274927\charrsid3826080 country\rquote s }{\insrsid142211\charrsid3826080 mass }{\insrsid2575204\charrsid3826080 
lipstick consumption.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2575204\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 5, at 528.}}}{\insrsid8924908\charrsid3826080   Comparing this }{\insrsid142211\charrsid3826080 absence of United States lipstick regulation}{\insrsid8924908\charrsid3826080  to the }{\insrsid142211\charrsid3826080 European }{
\insrsid8924908\charrsid3826080 lipstick regul}{\insrsid142211\charrsid3826080 atory regime perhaps }{\insrsid15817888\charrsid3826080 demonstrates the triumph}{\insrsid8924908\charrsid3826080  of }{\insrsid10626302\charrsid3826080 lipstick }{
\insrsid15817888\charrsid3826080 producer}{\insrsid8924908\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid15817888\charrsid3826080 \rquote }{\insrsid8924908\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid10626302\charrsid3826080 marketing ca}{\insrsid142211\charrsid3826080 mpaign even bette}{
\insrsid15817888\charrsid3826080 r than do the }{\insrsid142211\charrsid3826080 sales figures}{\insrsid15817888\charrsid3826080  themselves}{\insrsid10626302\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid142211\charrsid3826080 
  Whereas America placed no restrictions on lipstick,}{\insrsid10626302\charrsid3826080  England passed a Limitations of Supplies order that cut }{\insrsid7692228\charrsid3826080 the manufacturing of }{\insrsid10626302\charrsid3826080 lipstick }{
\insrsid7692228\charrsid3826080 and other cosmetics to the bare minimum in }{\insrsid15817888\charrsid3826080 order to conserve materials}{\insrsid7692228\charrsid3826080  for war purposes.}{\cs16\super\insrsid7692228\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 159}}}{\insrsid1462730\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid14574321\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid142211\charrsid3826080 Promptly after the law\rquote s passage, a}{\insrsid7692228\charrsid3826080  lips}{\insrsid142211\charrsid3826080 tick black market then }{\insrsid7692228\charrsid3826080 sprung up in London.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid7692228\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 8, at 22.  For those English women not prepared to dabble in illegal goods and those American women not prepared to pay the hiked lipstick 
prices, alternatives to lipstick also arose; most commonly, magazines advised using beetroot juice to tint lips.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ointer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 1, at 160.}}}{\insrsid7692228\charrsid3826080   Hitler likewise banned lipstick in Germany, but German women refuse}{\insrsid15817888\charrsid3826080 d to work under such conditions}{\insrsid7692228\charrsid3826080 
 and so forced a relenting of the law.}{\cs16\super\insrsid7692228\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 27.}}}{\insrsid7692228\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid543916\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid10626302\charrsid3826080 
\par }{\i\insrsid2711154\charrsid3826080 1950s}{\insrsid2711154\charrsid3826080 \tab 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid11422383 {\insrsid15817888\charrsid3826080 
With the lipstick industry having successfully re-imagined lipstick as a symbol of devout, conventional femininity, lipstick became a ubiquitous, and even }{\insrsid543916\charrsid3826080 indispensable,}{\insrsid15817888\charrsid3826080 
 item during the 1950s}{\insrsid543916\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid12539017\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  This assertion applies to England as well, with lipstick\rquote s renewed 
English respectability perhaps best captured by Queen Elizabeth\rquote s having commissioned a special coronation lipstick to match her purple and crimson robes.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 78.}}}{\insrsid543916\charrsid3826080   Statistics from the time show that nearly one-hundred percent of American college girls wore lipstick,}{
\cs16\super\insrsid543916\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 31.}}}{\insrsid543916\charrsid3826080  and ninety-eight percent of all American women wore lipstick, compared to ninety-six percent that brushed their teeth.}{\cs16\super\insrsid543916\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 53.}}}{\insrsid543916\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid3952153\charrsid3826080 
Instead of buying just one tube of lipstick coordinated to hair color or complexion, women began buying several lipsticks to coordinate with various outfits.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3952153\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 30.}}}{\insrsid3952153\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid6956181\charrsid3826080 By 1959, }{\insrsid11422383\charrsid3826080 
Americans spent ninety-three million dollars on buying sixty-two million tubes of lipstick.}{\cs16\super\insrsid11422383\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 iordan}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 11, at 60.}}}{\insrsid11422383\charrsid3826080 
  Such figures mostly result from voluntary lipstick consumption, but some lines of work actually required that women wear lipstick.  }{\insrsid543916\charrsid3826080 Airlines }{\insrsid11422383\charrsid3826080 followed the marines\rquote  example, and }{
\insrsid543916\charrsid3826080 generally considered lipstick part of their flight attendants\rquote  uniform}{\insrsid11422383\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid3621625\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Peiss, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 108, at 16 (adding that the reasoning behind this lipstick requirement became particularly clear with National Airlines\rquote  infamous \'93Fly Me\'94 advertising campaign, 
\'93which sold the attendants\rquote  beauty and sexuality at least as much as [it did] air transportation\'94).}}}{\insrsid3621625\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11422383\charrsid3826080  
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid13965607 {\insrsid5335621\charrsid3826080 Once again, demand a}{\insrsid12274129\charrsid3826080 nd development swelled}{
\insrsid5335621\charrsid3826080  concurrently.  }{\insrsid6254314\charrsid3826080 Some genuine}{\insrsid5335621\charrsid3826080  product development occurred, }{\insrsid6254314\charrsid3826080 
with the most important but least acknowledged development concerning a fidgeting with lipstick formulas in order to improve comfort.  Manufacturers}{\insrsid13965607\charrsid3826080  reduced lipstick\rquote s lev}{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080 
els of carnuba and beeswax }{\insrsid13965607\charrsid3826080 by about ten percent, and also reduced the level of bromo acids to avoid drying out the lips}{\insrsid6254314\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid6254314\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Brewster,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
note 158, at 107.  Bromo acids, in particular, had previously played a critical role in long-lasting lipstick by staining the skin, but they also dried out the skin in a problematic manner that begged for their replacement.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid6254314\charrsid3826080   However, such backstage maneuvers received much less attention than did more visible changes, }{\insrsid5335621\charrsid3826080 such as }{
\insrsid6254314\charrsid3826080 the }{\insrsid12274129\charrsid3826080 popular new shimmering lipsticks.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1263847\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Credit usually goes to Mearl Corp. for having first produced these pearlescent lipsticks.  Brewster,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 158, at 107.  }}}{
\insrsid12274129\charrsid3826080   Of course, few consumers realized that this shimmer came from guanine, a crystalline substance in fish scales, guano, and other animal excrements.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12274129\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 546.}}}{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080   White lipsticks }{
\insrsid12274129\charrsid3826080 first appeared}{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080  as well}{\insrsid12274129\charrsid3826080 , with the white gleam coming from the addition of titanium.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12274129\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 166.  Despite the 
new shimmery and pale colors though, dark reds actually became the most oft chosen hues at this time, possibly because people considered the dark reds to enhance the newly fashionable suntanned look.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 165.}}}{\insrsid12274129\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid6254314\charrsid3826080 Liquid lipstick}{\insrsid16335335\charrsid3826080  a}{\insrsid7155426\charrsid3826080 lso surfaced as a \lquote modern\rquote  offering}{
\insrsid6254314\charrsid3826080 , its links to the original forms of lipstick either forgotten or conveniently forgotten}{\insrsid16335335\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid16335335\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Brewster,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 158, at 107 (naming 
the major producers of liquid lipstick as Liptone in the United States, Lip-Cote in England, and Libussa in Germany).}}}{\insrsid16335335\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid1464403\charrsid3826080 Most development involved marketing though.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid15555965\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  In fact, development and listing costs have resulted in the origination of only one truly new color since World War II, and this color, Red no. 40, has more use for foods than it does for cosmetics.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid1464403\charrsid3826080   The single }{\insrsid9702169\charrsid3826080 most important ma}{\insrsid2236803\charrsid3826080 rketing advance involved}{
\insrsid7305120\charrsid3826080  the}{\insrsid1464403\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid9702169\charrsid3826080 discovery of the \'93teena}{\insrsid2236803\charrsid3826080 ger,\'94 which discovery led to a proliferation of}{\insrsid1464403\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid9702169\charrsid3826080 girlishly named lipsticks }{\insrsid2236803\charrsid3826080 targeting teens}{\insrsid1464403\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid1464403\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 8, at 23.  Apparently, the marketing worked, as two-thirds of 1950s teenagers reported having worn lipstick since at age fourteen.  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 535.}}}{\insrsid2236803\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5270434\charrsid3826080 However, there also arose new m}{\insrsid2236803\charrsid3826080 arketing }{
\insrsid5270434\charrsid3826080 tactics }{\insrsid2236803\charrsid3826080 designed to boost }{\insrsid5270434\charrsid3826080 the spending of all ages. }{\insrsid1145998\charrsid3826080  Estee Lauder introduced}{\insrsid2236803\charrsid3826080 
 the first free sample a}{\insrsid1145998\charrsid3826080 nd gift with purchase, giving away}{\insrsid5270434\charrsid3826080  miniature lipsticks, rouges, eye shadows, and face creams}{\insrsid2828424\charrsid3826080  de}{\insrsid1145998\charrsid3826080 
spite competitors}{\insrsid2828424\charrsid3826080 \rquote }{\insrsid1145998\charrsid3826080  derisive comments abo}{\insrsid2828424\charrsid3826080 ut the business strategy of }{\insrsid1145998\charrsid3826080 giving away the store}{
\insrsid5270434\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid5270434\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Koehn, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 165, at 231-32.}}}{\insrsid1145998\charrsid3826080   Revlon decided to }{
\insrsid11547518\charrsid3826080 start }{\insrsid1145998\charrsid3826080 bring}{\insrsid11547518\charrsid3826080 ing}{\insrsid1145998\charrsid3826080  out lipstick shades every six months rather than annually}{\insrsid11547518\charrsid3826080 
, so that women would think of lipstick as a shorter-lived product and buy it more frequently}{\insrsid1145998\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid1145998\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 538.  }}}{\insrsid806207\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid1270569\charrsid3826080 
It was Revlon too that launched the most famous lipstick}{\insrsid806207\charrsid3826080  advertising campaign of the decade, }{\insrsid1270569\charrsid3826080 a campaign entitled \'93Fire & Ice\'94 that first ran}{\insrsid806207\charrsid3826080 
 in 1952 with a two-page, full-color spread featuring model Dorian Leigh on the first page and fifteen questions designed }{\insrsid1270569\charrsid3826080 to \'93test\'94 whether the reader\rquote s personality}{\insrsid806207\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid1270569\charrsid3826080 suited Revlon products }{\insrsid806207\charrsid3826080 on the second page.}{\cs16\super\insrsid806207\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Brewster,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 158, at 107 (explaining in more detail that the second page\rquote s questions actually \'93
said nothing about cosmetics but suggested the dual nature of the women who wear them.  It was a way of giving women what one Revlon executive called \lquote a little immoral support\rquote  \'94).  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 536 (noting the fame of Revlon\rquote s \'93
Fire & Ice\'94 lipstick and nail polish promotion).}}}{\insrsid3952153\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid2828424\charrsid3826080 In fact, lipstick became such a heavily marketed, fiercely competitive business, that a period known as the \'93lipstick wars\'94
 began.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2828424\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 8, at 30.}}}{\insrsid2828424\charrsid3826080   Cosmetics companies attempted to destroy one another via such methods as sending thugs into stores to destroy competitors\rquote  lipstick displays, attempting to steal competitors\rquote 
 formulas, and bugging staff telephones.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2828424\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid2828424\charrsid3826080   Scandals abounded }{\insrsid142125\charrsid3826080 
both regarding these ongoing wars and regarding marketing ploys, with the loudest commotion involving Revlon\rquote s implication in rigging the television show \'93The }{\insrsid16586466\charrsid3826080 $64,000}{\insrsid142125\charrsid3826080  Question.
\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid142125\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. at 31 (reporting that Revlon used this popular show to hawk its products and, consequently, came under suspicion when the show\rquote s rigging became public).  Of anecdotal interest: Revlon nearly turned down the opportunity for its famously infamous 
sponsorship of the $64,000 Question, because Charles Revlon doubted that black-and-white television could effectively sell color cosmetics.  Brewster,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 158, at 107.  These doubts quickly dispelled though when a shade of lipstick featured on the show sold out in ten days.  Brewster,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 158, at 107.}}}{\insrsid12274129\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid9372020 {\insrsid1263113\charrsid3826080 Whether because political attention could shift from war abroad to domestic ma}{
\insrsid15497533\charrsid3826080 tters, or}{\insrsid1263113\charrsid3826080  because scientific advances led to better understanding cosmetics\rquote  risks, or because }{\insrsid15497533\charrsid3826080 lipstick had become }{
\insrsid8534737\charrsid3826080 a respectable product used by all proper wome}{\insrsid15497533\charrsid3826080 n, }{\insrsid13915697\charrsid3826080 federal and state }{\insrsid15497533\charrsid3826080 interest lipstick regulation }{
\insrsid8534737\charrsid3826080 revived.  }{\insrsid12221193\charrsid3826080 At the state level, twenty nine states adopted the Uniform State Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Bill, a piece of legislation closely patterned after the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid12221193\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  \-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Developments in the Law}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 176, at 636 n.31 (detailing how states tended to follow t}{\cs23\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 he Executive Committee of the Association of Food and Drug Officials of the United States\rquote  r
ecommendation to adopt state food, drug, and cosmetics regulation that patterned itself after the federal regulation).}}}{\insrsid12221193\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid15497533\charrsid3826080 At the federal level, a}{\insrsid13915697\charrsid3826080 
 regulatory }{\insrsid13844139\charrsid3826080 surge}{\insrsid13915697\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid15497533\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid13915697\charrsid3826080 in terms of both enforcement and enactment, }{\insrsid15497533\charrsid3826080 also}{
\insrsid13844139\charrsid3826080  occurred. }{\insrsid8986349\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid13844139\charrsid3826080 U}{\insrsid8534737\charrsid3826080 nlike in the original 1930s }{\insrsid3227410\charrsid3826080 skirmish over cosmetics regulations}{
\insrsid13844139\charrsid3826080 , the FTC}{\insrsid5527013\charrsid3826080  actually participated in rather than resisted}{\insrsid13844139\charrsid3826080  this 1950s regulatory }{\insrsid3227410\charrsid3826080 charge}{\insrsid8534737\charrsid3826080 .
}{\cs16\super\insrsid5527013\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  The FTC\rquote s willing participation in efforts to regulate cosmetics, although initially startling, becomes unsurprising when one considers
 the difference between these 1950s regulations and their 1930s predecessors.  Drafts of the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act in the 1930s threatened the FTC\rquote 
s jurisdiction over advertising, and so the FTC resisted the regulation out of territorial concerns.  
In contrast, the 1950s regulatory activity involved, first, the FTC getting to reinforce its territorial control over advertising by wielding that power, and, second, Congress enacting substantive safety law that in no way implicated the FTC\rquote 
s activities.}}}{\insrsid8534737\charrsid3826080   In 1953, the FTC }{\insrsid3227410\charrsid3826080 decided to battle lipstick manufacturers\rquote  misleading claims, and }{\insrsid8534737\charrsid3826080 
declared that lipsticks could no longer claim themselves \'93indelible,\'94 \'93smear proof,\'94 or \'93}{\insrsid3227410\charrsid3826080 non-smear}{\insrsid8534737\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid3227410\charrsid3826080 \'94}{
\cs16\super\insrsid8534737\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Brewster,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 158, at 107.}}}{\insrsid8534737\charrsid3826080 
  Instead, cosmetics companies could only promote lipsticks as \'93longer lasting\'94 or \'93less likely to smear.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid8534737\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid1263847\charrsid3826080   The FDA largely lef}{\insrsid10183997\charrsid3826080 t such }{\insrsid13915697\charrsid3826080 enforcement }{\insrsid10183997\charrsid3826080 
battles to the FTC, }{\insrsid13915697\charrsid3826080 perhaps in part }{\insrsid10183997\charrsid3826080 due to}{\insrsid1263847\charrsid3826080  the FDA\rquote s early lack of success in its own misbranding actions.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid1263847\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  James C. Munch & James C. Munch, Jr.,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Notices of Judgment: Cosmetics}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 14 }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Food Drug Cosm. L .J. }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 399, 401 (1958) (noting that during the first twenty years of FDA control over cosmetics, the agency litigated two cosmetics misbranding cases and lost both).}}}
{\insrsid16526414\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5527013\charrsid3826080 Indeed}{\insrsid13915697\charrsid3826080  though}{\insrsid5527013\charrsid3826080 , the FDA almost entirely ignored lipstick and other cosmetics during the 1950s,
 deeming their dangers far secondary to the lethality risks of food and drugs.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5527013\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid5527013 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Brewster,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 158, at 107.}}}{\insrsid5527013\charrsid3826080   Congress, however, ha}{\insrsid14497224\charrsid3826080 d other views of the risks, specifically the cancer risks of colorants.}{\insrsid9372020\charrsid3826080 
\par Congress}{\insrsid13915697\charrsid3826080  passed}{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080  two cosmetics-relevant}{\insrsid13915697\charrsid3826080  amendments to the Food, Drug, and Co}{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080 smetic Act}{
\insrsid9372020\charrsid3826080 , the Food Additives Amendment and the Color Addit}{\insrsid4274927\charrsid3826080 ives Amendment}{\insrsid13915697\charrsid3826080 .  }{\insrsid2256745\charrsid3826080 First, r}{\insrsid4933022\charrsid3826080 
epresentative}{\insrsid14497224\charrsid3826080  James D. Delaney}{\insrsid15497533\charrsid3826080 , \'93the primary congressional champion of the battle against cancer,\'94}{\insrsid8010132\charrsid3826080  inserted}{\insrsid14497224\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid4933022\charrsid3826080 into a food additives bill }{\insrsid14497224\charrsid3826080 a zero-tolerance clause for }{\insrsid14173993\charrsid3826080 the use of }{\insrsid14497224\charrsid3826080 ca}{\insrsid1990702\charrsid3826080 rc
inogenic additives}{\insrsid14173993\charrsid3826080  in either processed foods or cosmetics.}{\cs16\super\insrsid14173993\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Douglas Sheehy,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
A De Minimis Exception to the Delaney Clause: A Reassessment of Les v. Reilly}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 50}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Food & Drug L. J. }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 257, 260-62 (1995).  }}}{
\insrsid5275613\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid4933022\charrsid3826080 Although the additives bill had previously not implicated cosmetics, the 1957 addition of this \'93Delaney Amendment\'94 occasioned relatively little congressional debate.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid4933022\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 261.  }}}{\insrsid3608368\charrsid3826080   The Secretary of Health Educat}{\insrsid5986798\charrsid3826080 ion and Welfare}{
\cs16\super\insrsid12668120\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  By this point, the FDA had moved into the Department of Health Education and Welfare, and hence the Secretary of Health Education and Welfare\rquote 
s interest in the bill.  Although the FDA began under the Department of Agriculture, the FDA transferred to the }{\cs23\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Federal Security Agency}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 in 1940, which in turn became the Department of Health Education and Welfare in 1953.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Developments in the Law}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 176, at 635 n.18.}}}{\insrsid5986798\charrsid3826080  did object to t}{\insrsid3608368\charrsid3826080 he Delaney Clause as excessive}{\insrsid267586\charrsid3826080  though}{\insrsid3608368\charrsid3826080 
, because the general chemical additives provisions already covered reasonable risks of canc}{\insrsid267586\charrsid3826080 er and }{\insrsid4080944\charrsid3826080 because }{\insrsid267586\charrsid3826080 the Delaney Clause\rquote s provisions:
\par }\pard \qj \fi58\li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid3041037 {\insrsid8543506\charrsid3826080 \'85}{\insrsid267586\charrsid3826080 are so broadly phrased}{\insrsid8543506\charrsid3826080  that they}{
\insrsid267586\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3608368\charrsid3826080 could be read to bar an additive from the food supply even if it [the additive] can induce cancer only when used on test animals in a way having no bear}{\insrsid8543506\charrsid3826080 
ing on the question of carcinoge}{\insrsid3608368\charrsid3826080 nicity for its [the additive\rquote s] intended use.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3608368\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Food Additives, Hearings Before a Subcomm. of the House Comm. on Interstate and Foreign Commerce}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 85}{\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 th}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Cong., 2
d Sess. 38-39 (1958).  To support his concerns, the Secretary of Health Education and Welfare pointed out that the department already knew that scientists could produce cancer in tests animals by injecting sugar, olive oil, and tannic acid in a certain ma
nner, and so the same would likely prove true for many more common and desirable foods as well.  Frederick H. Degnan & W. Gary Flamm, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Living with and Reforming the Delaney Clause}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 50 }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Food & Drug L. J. }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 235, 237 (1995).}}}{\insrsid14756913\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid267586\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi58\li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid8543506 {\insrsid8543506\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid11168432 {\insrsid14756913\charrsid3826080 These objec}{\insrsid267586\charrsid3826080 tions }{\insrsid14756913\charrsid3826080 manage}{
\insrsid267586\charrsid3826080 d}{\insrsid14756913\charrsid3826080  to get}{\insrsid267586\charrsid3826080  the food additives bill}{\insrsid3608368\charrsid3826080  reported out of committee}{\insrsid267586\charrsid3826080 ,}{
\insrsid3608368\charrsid3826080  without the }{\insrsid11168432\charrsid3826080 Delaney language}{\insrsid12794210\charrsid3826080 , but Delaney quickly convinced the general assembly to reinsert the language}{\insrsid11168432\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid11168432\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Degnan & Flamm}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 281, at 237.}}}{
\insrsid14756913\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11168432\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid1453991\charrsid3826080 Responding, the }{\insrsid8143001\charrsid3826080 Assistant Secretary of Health Education and Wel}{\insrsid1453991\charrsid3826080 fare }{
\insrsid8143001\charrsid3826080 wrote a long letter insisting on the agency\rquote s opposition to the Delaney Clause, but also adding that, in the interest of passing the bill, the department would withdraw its objection to the Clause }{
\insrsid7293532\charrsid3826080 if revised}{\insrsid618807\charrsid3826080  to state that }{\insrsid4539588\charrsid3826080 ban}{\insrsid618807\charrsid3826080 ning}{\insrsid4202613\charrsid3826080  additives}{\insrsid4539588\charrsid3826080  as c}{
\insrsid618807\charrsid3826080 ancerous required completing}{\insrsid8010120\charrsid3826080  tests appropriate to ev}{\insrsid4202613\charrsid3826080 aluate the additive}{\insrsid4539588\charrsid3826080 s\rquote }{\insrsid8010120\charrsid3826080  safety}
{\insrsid4539588\charrsid3826080  as used in food}{\insrsid8143001\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid8143001\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Degnan & Flamm}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 281, at 237-38.  The Department of Health Education and Welfare considered this appropriate testing methods language preferable to the original language that, if read literally, would have forbidden approval of any substance
 that by any method of administration could cause any type of cancer in any animal.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 238.}}}{\insrsid8143001\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid8010120\charrsid3826080 
Accepting the compromise, }{\insrsid8143001\charrsid3826080 Congress }{\insrsid11364645\charrsid3826080 incorporated}{\insrsid8010120\charrsid3826080  the }{\insrsid8143001\charrsid3826080 revised }{\insrsid8010120\charrsid3826080 \lquote appro}{
\insrsid11364645\charrsid3826080 p}{\insrsid8010120\charrsid3826080 riate tests\rquote  }{\insrsid8143001\charrsid3826080 language}{\insrsid4080944\charrsid3826080  into }{\insrsid5986798\charrsid3826080 the bill, and in 1958 passed t}{
\insrsid2256745\charrsid3826080 he Food Additives Amendment in a subsection}{\insrsid5986798\charrsid3826080  stating: }{\insrsid12794210\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \qj \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid1990702 {\insrsid5986798\charrsid3826080 Provided, That no 
additive shall be deemed to be safe if it is found to induce cancer when ingested by man or animal, or if it is found, after tests which are appropriate for the evaluation of the safety of food additives, to induce cancer in man or animal, except that thi
s
 proviso shall not apply with respect to the use of a substance as an ingredient of feed for animals which are raised for food production, if the Secretary finds (i) that, under the conditions of use and feeding specified in proposed labeling and reasonab
l
y certain to be followed in practice, such additive will not adversely affect the animals for which such feed is intended, and (ii) that no residue of the additive will be found (by methods of examination prescribed or approved by the Secretary by regulat
ions, which regulations shall not be subject to subsections (f) and (g)) in any edible portion of such animal after slaughter or in any food yielded by or derived from the living animal.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5986798\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 21 U.SC. \'a7 348.  As the quoted text shows, the Delaney Clause does not tell the FDA specifically how to go about establishing whether a substance \lquote is found\rquote  to \lquote cause cancer,\rquote 
 but rather insists that the FDA use scientific judgment on almost every additive to determine whether cancer risk exists.  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Degnan & Flamm}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 281, at 236.}}}{\insrsid12794210\charrsid3826080 
\par }{\insrsid1990702\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid11168432 {\insrsid9372020\charrsid3826080 It bears note that}{\insrsid5074442\charrsid3826080  the law did not }{\insrsid9372020\charrsid3826080 
take quite so extreme an approach as}{\insrsid5074442\charrsid3826080  the above-quoted text suggests, for}{\insrsid9372020\charrsid3826080  the law}{\insrsid1990702\charrsid3826080 
 included a grandfather clause exempting any substances that had already received regulatory approval under the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act or the Federal Meat Inspection Act of 1907}{\insrsid9372020\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid9372020\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Sheehy,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 278, at 261.}}}{\insrsid5074442\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid9372020\charrsid3826080 
 However, }{\insrsid5074442\charrsid3826080 the law }{\insrsid9372020\charrsid3826080 still }{\insrsid5074442\charrsid3826080 did }{\insrsid9372020\charrsid3826080 impose an absolute ban on additives}{\insrsid4202613\charrsid3826080 , including}{
\insrsid9372020\charrsid3826080  colorants }{\insrsid4202613\charrsid3826080 used in cosmetics, }{\insrsid9372020\charrsid3826080 if appropriate tests revealed the additives to produce any risk of cancer in humans or animals}{
\insrsid1990702\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid1990702\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Donegan,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 154.}}}{
\insrsid5074442\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9372020\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid11026611 {\insrsid5074442\charrsid3826080 Moreover, Congress also passed a sec}{\insrsid9372020\charrsid3826080 ond law}{
\insrsid16451139\charrsid3826080  that further restricted the use of }{\insrsid4202613\charrsid3826080 specifically color additives}{\insrsid16451139\charrsid3826080  in both food and cosmetics.}{\insrsid15344455\charrsid3826080   With the FDA\rquote 
s ungrudging support this time, Congress went on to construct the first }{\insrsid14644990\charrsid3826080 and only federal }{\insrsid15344455\charrsid3826080 pre-market approval requirement for cosmetics.}{\cs16\super\insrsid14644990\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid15344455\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid10757713\charrsid3826080 Und}{\insrsid2965068\charrsid3826080 er the Color Additive Amendment}{\insrsid10757713\charrsid3826080 
, as ultimately passed in 1960:}{\insrsid1990702\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \qj \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid11556106 {\insrsid9792933\charrsid3826080 
A color additive shall, with respect to any particular use (for which it is being used or intended to be used or is represented as suitable) in or on food or drugs or devices or cosmetics, be deemed unsafe\'85 unless: (A) there is in eff
ect, and such additive and such use are in conformity with, an [FDA] regulation\'85
 listing such additive for such use, including any provision of such regulation prescribing the conditions under which such additive may be safely used, and (B) such additive either is from a batch certified, in accordance with [FDA] regulations\'85
 for such use, or has, with respect to such use, been exempted by the Secretary [of Health Education and Welfare] from the requirement of certification}{\insrsid8802276\charrsid3826080 ; or such additive and such use the
reof conform to the terms of an [investigational use by qualified experts] exemption\'85}{\cs16\super\insrsid8802276\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 21 U.S.C. \'a7 379.}}}{\insrsid9792933\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid9792933 {\insrsid8802276\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid11621709 {\insrsid11621709\charrsid3826080 
Put in plain English, this language prohibits cosmetics companies from using any color additive unless the FDA has listed that additive as approved for the given use}{\insrsid4478424\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid11621709\charrsid3826080  a
nd that additive comes from a batch certified for use.}{\cs16\super\insrsid14104967\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See, }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Donegan,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 154 (providing a particularly lucid explanation of the regulatory regime that the Color Additive Amendments created).}}}{
\insrsid4478424\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080 How the FDA decides which colorants to list as approved }{\insrsid15622122\charrsid3826080 wa}{\insrsid9897423\charrsid3826080 s }{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080 also }{
\insrsid9897423\charrsid3826080 specifically mandated by the legislation}{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080 , with the Delaney C}{\insrsid9897423\charrsid3826080 lause re}{\insrsid144711\charrsid3826080 surfacing as an element of the approval test}{
\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080 .  Specifically}{\insrsid5270502\charrsid3826080 , in determining a color additive\rquote s safety}{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080 :
\par }\pard \qj \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid11556106 {\insrsid5270502\charrsid3826080 \'85}{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080 
 the Secretary shall consider, among other relevant factors: (i) the probable consumption of, or other relevant exposure from, the additive and of any substance formed in or on food, drugs or devices, or cosmetics because of the use of the additive, (ii}{
\insrsid5270502\charrsid3826080 ) the cumulative effect\'85}{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080 
 of such additive in the diet of man or animals, taking into account the same or any chemically or pharmacologically related substance or substances in such diet, (iii) safety factors which, in the opinion of }{\insrsid5270502\charrsid3826080 [qualified] 
}{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080 exper}{\insrsid5270502\charrsid3826080 ts\'85}{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080 
 are generally recognized as appropriate for the use of animal experimentation data, and (iv) the availability of any needed practicable methods of analysis for determining }{\insrsid5270502\charrsid3826080 the identity and quantity of}{
\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080  the pure dye and all intermediates and other impurities contain}{\insrsid5270502\charrsid3826080 ed in such color additive, }{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080 such additive in or on any article of food, drug o}{
\insrsid5270502\charrsid3826080 r device, or cosmetic, and}{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080  any substance formed in or on such article because of }{\insrsid5270502\charrsid3826080 the use of such additive.   A color additive}{
\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080  shall be uns
afe, and shall not be listed, for any use which will or may result in ingestion of all or part of such additive, if the additive is found by the Secretary to induce cancer when ingested by man or animal, or if it is found by the Secretary, after tests whi
ch are appropriate for the evaluation of the safety of additives for use in food, to induce c}{\insrsid5270502\charrsid3826080 ancer in man or animal, and}{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080 
 shall be deemed unsafe, and shall not be listed, for any use which will not result in ingestion of any part of such additive, if, after 
tests which are appropriate for the evaluation of the safety of additives for such use, or after other relevant exposure of man or animal to such additive, it is found by the Secretary to induce cancer in man or animal}{\insrsid5270502\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid9783340\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\tx3480\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid9783340 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 21 U.S.C. \'a7 379.}}}{\insrsid5793259\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid5270502 {\insrsid144711\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid11621709 {\insrsid4133097\charrsid3826080 This language creates a situation in which}{\insrsid4595087\charrsid3826080  colorants}{
\insrsid4133097\charrsid3826080 , like }{\insrsid4595087\charrsid3826080 other additives, }{\insrsid15622122\charrsid3826080 m}{\insrsid4595087\charrsid3826080 ust}{\insrsid4133097\charrsid3826080  not pose any risk of cancer.}{
\insrsid15622122\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid4133097\charrsid3826080  B}{\insrsid15622122\charrsid3826080 ut}{\insrsid4133097\charrsid3826080  also}{\insrsid15622122\charrsid3826080 , unlike in the case of other additives, the FDA must prescreen all c}{
\insrsid4595087\charrsid3826080 olorants for a risk of cancer and}{\insrsid15622122\charrsid3826080  other harm}{\insrsid11627030\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid15622122\charrsid3826080  before }{\insrsid4595087\charrsid3826080 manufacturers can}{
\insrsid11627030\charrsid3826080  incorporate the colorants into any product}{\insrsid15622122\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid4595087\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Getting the FDA to engage in this prescreening process requires payment of a fee by the desiring manufacturer.  Or, as the Amendment phrases it: \'93
The admitting to listing and certification of color additives, in accordance with regulations prescribed under this Act, shall be performed only upon payment of such fees, 
which shall be specified in such regulations, as may be necessary to provide, maintain, and equip an adequate service for such purposes.\'94  21 U.S.C. \'a7379.}}}{\insrsid8549599\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid10247226\charrsid3826080 Given}{
\insrsid13587738\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid10247226\charrsid3826080 lipstick\rquote s obvious reliance on colorants, this new color additives law meant}{\insrsid13587738\charrsid3826080  another sizeable bump up in }{\insrsid10247226\charrsid3826080 
lipstick\rquote s }{\insrsid13587738\charrsid3826080 regulatory }{\insrsid10247226\charrsid3826080 obligations}{\insrsid13587738\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid138990\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Some scholars accurately note that the cosmetics portions of the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act have remained essentially unchanged since their original 1938 passage.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Greff,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 147, at 244.  However, the Act\rquote 
s requirements for cosmetics have nonetheless heightened, due to generally applicable 1950s amendments that are, in practice, particularly exacting on cosmetics.}}}{\insrsid13587738\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid144711\charrsid3826080 
Thus, by the end of the 1950s, }{\insrsid8549599\charrsid3826080 almost all women used lipstick, a majority of the states had laws regulating lipstick, and the federal laws applicable to lipstick had }{\insrsid3938516\charrsid3826080 
become both more strictly enforced and just plain stricter.}{\insrsid144711\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid8983743 {\i\insrsid2435007 
\par 
\par }{\i\insrsid13587738\charrsid3826080 1960s}{\insrsid8134121\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid5531360 {\insrsid8134121\charrsid3826080 Following several decades of extensive lipstick developments, the }{\insrsid2707875\charrsid3826080 1}{
\insrsid11232345\charrsid3826080 960s brought a }{\insrsid8134121\charrsid3826080 lull in lipstick\rquote s societal, technological, and legal evolution.}{\insrsid2707875\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid14420621\charrsid3826080 Tumult }{
\insrsid5448854\charrsid3826080 that swept up most }{\insrsid14420621\charrsid3826080 established institutions and conventions}{\insrsid5448854\charrsid3826080  left lipstick relatively untouched as}{\insrsid14420621\charrsid3826080  an accepted}{
\insrsid10821250\charrsid3826080  emblem of femininity.  }{\insrsid5448854\charrsid3826080 Similarly, l}{\insrsid4227009\charrsid3826080 ipstick\rquote s }{\insrsid5448854\charrsid3826080 technological aspects e}{\insrsid13123631\charrsid3826080 
xperienced tweaking but no dramatic}{\insrsid4227009\charrsid3826080  overhaul}{\insrsid5448854\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid4227009\charrsid3826080 .  }{\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080 The late-1950s}{\insrsid5531360\charrsid3826080  phenomena of white and 
}{\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080 beige lipstick}{\insrsid5531360\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080  increa}{\insrsid5531360\charrsid3826080 sed in popularity to become }{\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080 best seller}{
\insrsid5531360\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid287252 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 24.}}}{\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5531360\charrsid3826080 Correlated to these colors\rquote  popularity, an}{\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080 
 aspiration to wear lipstick but look as if one was not wearing lipstick posed probably the decade\rquote s most noteworthy change and complicated challenge for manufacturers, who invented complex formulas to produce lipsticks with the effect.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid287252 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080   For all the manufacturers\rquote 
 efforts though, one of the most popular }{\insrsid13123631\charrsid3826080 \lquote }{\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080 lipstic}{\insrsid13123631\charrsid3826080 ks\rquote  remained a product }{\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080 intended as a concealer, called 
\'93Erase.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid287252 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .  }}}{\insrsid7497121\charrsid3826080   T}{\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080 
he countervailing trend of }{\insrsid5531360\charrsid3826080 over-pai}{\insrsid13123631\charrsid3826080 nting the upper lip}{\insrsid5531360\charrsid3826080  to create a permanent smile}{\insrsid7497121\charrsid3826080 , however,}{
\insrsid5531360\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080 ensured that lipstick business remained solid.}{\cs16\super\insrsid287252\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid287252 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 552.}}}{\insrsid5531360\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid10635263\charrsid3826080 
Such over-painted mouths often featured the g}{\insrsid14420621\charrsid3826080 littery, frosted }{\insrsid4227009\charrsid3826080 colors }{\insrsid13123631\charrsid3826080 whose 1950s popularity endured}{\insrsid4227009\charrsid3826080 , }{
\insrsid10635263\charrsid3826080 but }{\insrsid4227009\charrsid3826080 with the improvement of }{\insrsid14420621\charrsid3826080 mica, iron oxides, and titanium dio}{\insrsid4227009\charrsid3826080 xide replacing}{\insrsid14420621\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid4227009\charrsid3826080 excrement and }{\insrsid14420621\charrsid3826080 fish scales as }{\insrsid4227009\charrsid3826080 the }{\insrsid14420621\charrsid3826080 standard }{\insrsid4227009\charrsid3826080 source of these colors\rquote  sparkle.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid4227009\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 90.}}}{\insrsid4227009\charrsid3826080 
  }{\insrsid7737168\charrsid3826080 Building off of the}{\insrsid11232345\charrsid3826080 se glitzy predecessors}{\insrsid3373597\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid7737168\charrsid3826080  h}{\insrsid4227009\charrsid3826080 
eavier metallics, particularly in the Helena Rubinstein line, }{\insrsid7737168\charrsid3826080 also became trendy}{\insrsid11211782\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid11211782\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 572 (commenting on the late 1960s popularity of Helena Rubinstein\rquote s bronze, si
lver, and gold lipsticks).  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3 at 32 (naming the James Bond film }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Goldfinger}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, in which a secretary dies from an overdose of gold body painting, as largely responsible for the metallic lipstick craze).}}}{\insrsid7737168\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid13123631\charrsid3826080 Other}{\insrsid11232345\charrsid3826080 
 momentary trends included }{\insrsid10635263\charrsid3826080 a 1964 caramel-flavored lipstick}{\cs16\super\insrsid10635263\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 561.}}}{\insrsid10635263\charrsid3826080  and a fad for lipstick made with or simulating baby product ingredients}{\insrsid11232345\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid10635263\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 8, at 23-24 (citing such ingredients and flavors as: baby powder, baby oil, bubble bath, and candy floss).}}}{\insrsid13123631\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7497121\charrsid3826080  In terms of lipstick ideas with}{\insrsid11232345\charrsid3826080 
 historic purpose though}{\insrsid13123631\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid8798930\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11232345\charrsid3826080 only }{\insrsid11339291\charrsid3826080 one }{\insrsid1649163\charrsid3826080 stands out
; manufacturers improved the coloring process by}{\insrsid11339291\charrsid3826080  using}{\insrsid8798930\charrsid3826080  the spectrophotometer to develop new color combinations and precisely calibrate color batches.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid8798930\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Brewster,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 158, at 107.}}}{\insrsid11339291\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid1649163\charrsid3826080 The 1960s major }{\insrsid4876317\charrsid3826080 advance involved}{\insrsid1649163\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11339291\charrsid3826080 the lipstick industry}{\insrsid1649163\charrsid3826080 \rquote 
s increasing recognition of}{\insrsid4876317\charrsid3826080  the need to treat lipstick production as an exact}{\insrsid11339291\charrsid3826080  scie}{\insrsid4876317\charrsid3826080 ntific process}{\insrsid11339291\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid11339291\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  The industry also recognized the potential for simply marketing products as scientific, exemplified by Est\'e9e Lauder\rquote 
s launching the Clinique brand as state-of-the-art, medically sound skincare, complete with salespeople wearing white lab coats and carrying penlights. }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Koehn, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 165, at 242.}}}{\insrsid4876317\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid5898999 {\insrsid13257449\charrsid3826080 This realization cam}{\insrsid4876317\charrsid3826080 e none too soon, as the Food and Color Additiv}{
\insrsid4477106\charrsid3826080 e Amendments went into effect and forced lipstick manufacturers to }{\insrsid155584\charrsid3826080 take more care wi}{\insrsid4918855\charrsid3826080 th ingredients than ever before. A}{\insrsid4477106\charrsid3826080 
lmost two hundred colors went into cosmetics during the 1950s, }{\insrsid4918855\charrsid3826080 but this number began rapidly declining during the 1960s towards the current level of thirty-four permissible colors.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid4918855\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Brewster,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 158
 at 107 (describing the drop in allowable cosmetics colors from a couple hundred in the 1950s to thirty-four by the 1990s, or, specifically to: fourteen reds, seven yellows, four oranges, four greens, two blues, two violets, and one brown, some with condi
tions of use).}}}{\insrsid290969\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid16738308\charrsid3826080 Although }{\insrsid9057556\charrsid3826080 lipstick experienced }{\insrsid16738308\charrsid3826080 virtually no legal developments in terms of new law}{
\insrsid16546452\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid7419132\charrsid3826080 , federal }{\insrsid16738308\charrsid3826080 lipstick}{\insrsid9057556\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7419132\charrsid3826080 jurisprudence yet }{\insrsid16546452\charrsid3826080 remained}{
\insrsid9057556\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7419132\charrsid3826080 a }{\insrsid16546452\charrsid3826080 dynamic}{\insrsid9057556\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7419132\charrsid3826080 field, }{\insrsid2965068\charrsid3826080 with}{
\insrsid9057556\charrsid3826080  the FDA and }{\insrsid16738308\charrsid3826080 cosmetics industry}{\insrsid9057556\charrsid3826080  struggling to}{\insrsid16738308\charrsid3826080  interpret}{\insrsid9057556\charrsid3826080  and implement }{
\insrsid4918855\charrsid3826080 the }{\insrsid16738308\charrsid3826080 recent }{\insrsid8550985\charrsid3826080 additives}{\insrsid4918855\charrsid3826080  regulations.}{\insrsid2965068\charrsid3826080 
  Interpretation of the Color Additive Amendment provoked the greatest fights between the FDA and industry, particularly on three sub-issues.  First, the FDA }{\insrsid11083175\charrsid3826080 
interpreted the Color Additive Amendment to allow for defining }{\insrsid4524110\charrsid3826080 lipstick and other finished cosmetics as }{\insrsid11083175\charrsid3826080 color additive}{\insrsid4524110\charrsid3826080 s}{
\insrsid11083175\charrsid3826080 , and so duly }{\insrsid2965068\charrsid3826080 i}{\insrsid4524110\charrsid3826080 ssued a regulation defining }{\insrsid2965068\charrsid3826080 fini}{\insrsid4524110\charrsid3826080 shed cosmetics}{
\insrsid11083175\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid2965068\charrsid3826080 as a color additive}{\insrsid8275788\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid407344\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  21 C.F.R. \'a7 8.1(f) (as cited in 
}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Toilet Goods Ass\rquote n, Inc. v. Gardner, 278 F. Supp. 786 (1986))}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Donegan,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 154 (discussing how the FDA adopted an expansive interpretation of the Color Additives Amendment and argue
d that, under the Amendment, lipstick and any other substance that \'93when applied to the human body results in coloring,\'94 represented a color additive requiring pre-market approval).}}}{\insrsid8275788\charrsid3826080   As this regulation meant tha}{
\insrsid11083175\charrsid3826080 t cosmetics companies needed to get every lipstick pre-approved before sale, the industry}{\insrsid8275788\charrsid3826080  naturally challenged the regulation.}{\insrsid11083175\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid7869778\charrsid3826080 And, i}{\insrsid11083175\charrsid3826080 n }{\i\insrsid15882266\charrsid3826080 Toilet Goods Ass\rquote n}{\i\insrsid11083175\charrsid3826080 ., Inc. v. Finch}{\insrsid4524110\charrsid3826080 , the cosmetics industry}{
\cs16\super\insrsid5898999\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Cosmetics companies were represented in court by an industry trade group, then called the \'93Toilet Goods Association,\'94 but today known as the \'93Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association\'94
 (CTFA).  Donegan,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 154.}}}{\insrsid4524110\charrsid3826080  succeeded in}{\insrsid11083175\charrsid3826080  this challenge.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid7869778\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Toilet Goods Ass\rquote n, Inc. v. Finch, 419 F2d 21, 24-28 (1969).}}}{\insrsid11083175\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid7869778\charrsid3826080 
The Second Circuit Court of Appeals ruled that the FDA had exceeded its statutory authority in regulating lipstick }{\insrsid13444705\charrsid3826080 and other finished cosmetics as }{\insrsid7869778\charrsid3826080 color additive}{
\insrsid13444705\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid5898999\charrsid3826080 , because: }{\insrsid7869778\charrsid3826080 (1)}{\insrsid1771178\charrsid3826080  the Color Additives Amendment shows no sign that Congress intended pre-ma
rket approval for cosmetics, (2) given that the Color Additive Amendment applies equally to food, drugs, and cosmetics, it amounts to unreasonable differential treatment to regulate cosmetics with colorants in one manner while regulating food and drugs wi
th the same colorants in an entirely different manner,}{\cs16\super\insrsid1771178\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid4137014 
\fs24\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\fs20\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\fs20\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  The Court further points out tha
t ingested food and drugs presumably pose more hazard than do cosmetics, and so, if any differential treatment were justified, it would involve stricter regulation of food and drug, not stricter regulation of cosmetics.  Finch, 419 F2d 21, at 27 (stating 
that: \'93if there is a difference in hazard, foods and drugs, which are ingested, would seem to outrank cosmetics; indeed cosmetics were not brought into the regulatory scheme until 32 years after foods and drugs\'94).}}}{\insrsid1771178\charrsid3826080 
 and (3)}{\insrsid15555612\charrsid3826080  defining finished cosmetics pr}{\insrsid4137014\charrsid3826080 oducts as color additives would}{\insrsid15555612\charrsid3826080  frustrate the Color Additive Amendment\rquote s underlying \'93safe for use\'94
 principle.}{\cs16\super\insrsid15555612\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, Walter W. Jones, Jr., }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Validity, Construction, and Application of Color Additive Provisions of Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, as Amended (21 U.S.C.A. \'a7\'a7
321(t, u), 361(a. e), 376), and of Implementing Regulations,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  12 A.L.R. Fed. 475 (summarizing the holdings on several questions raised in the Toilet Goods Ass\rquote n, Inc. v. Finch case).}}}{
\insrsid13982375\charrsid3826080   Secondly, the FDA also issued a regulation defining diluents, components intentionally mixed with color additives in order to facilitate the color additives\rquote  use in food, drugs, or cosmetics}{
\insrsid13444705\charrsid3826080  like lipstick}{\insrsid13982375\charrsid3826080 , as color additives.}{\cs16\super\insrsid407344\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  21 C.F.R. \'a7 8.1(m) (as cited in }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Toilet Goods Ass\rquote 
n, Inc. v. Gardner, 278 F. Supp. 786).}}}{\insrsid13982375\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid16722007\charrsid3826080 This too the cosmetics industry successfully }{\insrsid13444705\charrsid3826080 contested}{\insrsid537159\charrsid3826080 .  The }{
\i\insrsid16722007\charrsid3826080 Finch}{\insrsid537159\charrsid3826080  appellate court left intact the ruling of the }{\i\insrsid15882266\charrsid3826080 Toilet Goods Ass\rquote n, Inc. }{\i\insrsid537159\charrsid3826080  v. Gardner}{
\insrsid537159\charrsid3826080  lower court,}{\cs16\super\insrsid537159\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Finch, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 302, at 24 (observing that the Government does not appeal the district court
\rquote s holding that diluents cannot constitute color additives).}}}{\insrsid537159\charrsid3826080  which held that diluents cannot constitute color additives, because: }{\insrsid537159\charrsid3826080 
(1) this would contradict the plain meaning of the Color Additive Amendment\rquote s and Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act\rquote s terminology, (2) simultaneous to passing this Amendment, Congress made changes to the Act\rquote 
s section regulating diluents, which changes did not include authorizing pre-market clearance procedures for diluents, and (3) the Amendmen}{\insrsid3306380\charrsid3826080 t\rquote s legislative history includes }{\insrsid537159\charrsid3826080 
deliberate rejection of premarket approval requirements for ingredients other than color additives}{\cs16\super\insrsid537159\charrsid3826080  }{\cs16\super\insrsid16722007\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
Toilet Goods Ass\rquote n, Inc. v. Gardner, 278 F. Supp. 786, 791-92.}}}{\insrsid16722007\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid13924692\charrsid3826080 Third and finally, the FDA put forth a regulation }{\insrsid3306380\charrsid3826080 announcing }{
\insrsid13924692\charrsid3826080 that it could }{\insrsid7239384\charrsid3826080 suspend the availability of cosmetics certification proceedings}{\insrsid12015201\charrsid3826080  to manufacturers who}{\insrsid13924692\charrsid3826080 
 refused FDA inspectors access to manufacturing facilities, processes, and formulae involved in the manufacture of additives.}{\cs16\super\insrsid13843849\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  21 C.F.R. \'a7
 80.34 (2006) (stating that: \'93when it appears to the Commissioner that a person has refused to permit duly authorized employees of th
e Food and Drug Administration free access to all manufacturing facilities, processes, and formulae involved in the manufacture of color additives and intermediates from which such color additives are derived\'85
 [then the Commissioner] may immediately suspend certification service to such person and may continue such suspension until adequate corrective action has been taken.\'94
).  This regulation provoked industry outcry, because, by conditioning certification of lipstick and other cosmetics on access to sever
al forms of manufacturing information, the FDA effectively authorized itself to ban any cosmetics whose manufacturers did not allow FDA access to any additives-related manufacturing data that the FDA wished to see.  }}}{\insrsid5390535\charrsid3826080 
  Contrasting the fates of }{\insrsid13843849\charrsid3826080 other regulations, }{\insrsid5390535\charrsid3826080 this regulation survived challenge by}{\insrsid13843849\charrsid3826080  the cosmetics industry.  }{\insrsid5390535\charrsid3826080 
After the Second and Third }{\insrsid948322\charrsid3826080 Cir}{\insrsid9254968\charrsid3826080 cuits split on how to treat}{\insrsid948322\charrsid3826080  the regulation}{\insrsid4085372\charrsid3826080 ,}{\cs16\super\insrsid5390535\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Abbott Labs. v. Celebrezze, 352 
F.2d 286, 291 (1965) (Third Circuit Court of Appeals holding that district courts lack jurisdiction to engage in pre-enforcement judicial review of administrative regulations issued under the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act); }{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Toilet Goods Ass\rquote n, Inc. v. Gardner, 360 F.2d 677, 683-}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
87 (1966) (Second Circuit Court of Appeals, on interlocutory appeal, holding that district courts do have jurisdiction to issue pre-enforcement rulings about administrative regulations issued under the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act; bu
t, in this case, until an actual instance of enforcement arises, the possibility of unlawful injury under the regulation is too remote to merit declaratory judgment).}}}{\insrsid4085372\charrsid3826080  t}{\insrsid6750283\charrsid3826080 he Supreme Court 
}{\insrsid5390535\charrsid3826080 accepted cert and }{\insrsid13843849\charrsid3826080 denied the industry\rquote s request for pre-enforcement declaratory and injunctive relief on the grounds that the controversy had not come ripe for adjudication.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid13843849\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Toilet Goods Ass\rquote n, Inc. v. Gardner, 387 U.S. 158, 160-61 (1967).  }}}{\insrsid13843849\charrsid3826080 
  Without the FDA having ever yet enforced the regulation, the Court could not know whether or when the Commissioner would order an inspection under the regulation, and for what reasons.}{\cs16\super\insrsid6777519\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 162-64.}}}{\insrsid11933691\charrsid3826080   Furthermore, }{\insrsid7870447\charrsid3826080 the Court considered that }{\insrsid11933691\charrsid3826080 no irreparable}{
\insrsid7870447\charrsid3826080  harm to manufactu}{\insrsid926831\charrsid3826080 rers would result from }{\insrsid6294566\charrsid3826080 not judicially determining the regulation\rquote 
s validity until an actual case of enforcement under the regulation arose}{\insrsid11933691\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid11933691\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 164-66 (with this consideration most directly expressed in the statement that: \'93
no irremediable adverse consequences flow from requiring a later challenge to this regulation by a manufacturer who refuses to allow this type of inspection\'94).}}}{\insrsid7869778\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid10321648 {\insrsid8550985\charrsid3826080 Implementation of the Food and Color Additives}{\insrsid1129761\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid8217445\charrsid3826080 Amendments had similarly high stakes, for it involved the banning of many colors upon which the cosmetics industry had previously depended.  However, the process provoked relatively fewer legal bat}{
\insrsid6303026\charrsid3826080 tles, because the Amendments\rquote  }{\insrsid12256014\charrsid3826080 unequivocal }{\insrsid6303026\charrsid3826080 language}{\insrsid12256014\charrsid3826080  left little leeway for evading the delisting duties}{
\insrsid6303026\charrsid3826080 , and because the FDA resisted the delisting of colors almost as much as the cosmetics industry did.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12139957\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Peter Barton Hutt & Richard A. Merrill}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Food and Drug Law}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  877 (2d ed. 1991) (noting that the FDA particularly resisted delisting colors based on cancer risk, and indeed, \'93
for over a decade [after the Food and Color Additives Amendments passed], the FDA applied either [Amendment\rquote s] Delaney Clause on only two occasions, both times to ban unimportant indirect food additives\'94).}}}{\insrsid12256014\charrsid3826080   }
{\insrsid1129761\charrsid3826080 Since the Color Additive Amendment made clear that no color could appear in products until affirmative proof of the color\rquote s safety had been established, and since
 cosmetics companies had to themselves pay for this FDA safety testing, many colors ended up delisted }{\insrsid12666419\charrsid3826080 not because the colors actually posed any danger, but }{\insrsid1129761\charrsid3826080 
simply because companies deemed it not worth doing expensive tests on multiple similar shades.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1129761\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Brewster,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 158, at 107. }}}{\insrsid1129761\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid8663741\charrsid3826080 In such manner did Reds N}{\insrsid1129761\charrsid3826080 o}{\insrsid8663741\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid1129761\charrsid3826080 
. 10, 11, and 13 get delisted}{\insrsid10321648\charrsid3826080  apparently without argument}{\insrsid1129761\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid1129761\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid10321648\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid7497121\charrsid3826080 Court cases on color delistings would come, as the FDA\rquote s and cosmetic industry\rquote 
s thorny relationship continued, but not until the following decade.}{\insrsid8217445\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid6687759 {\i\insrsid6687759\charrsid3826080 1970s}{\insrsid8127900\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid8021830 {\insrsid6687759\charrsid3826080 \tab }{\insrsid11486643\charrsid3826080 In this climate did the 1970s arrive,}{\insrsid7497121\charrsid3826080 
 attendant}{\insrsid10048351\charrsid3826080  with}{\insrsid6687759\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11486643\charrsid3826080 a jumbl}{\insrsid15532571\charrsid3826080 e of shifts i}{\insrsid12065316\charrsid3826080 n lipstick\rquote 
s social connotation as well as continued}{\insrsid11486643\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7480392\charrsid3826080 federal regulatory }{\insrsid12065316\charrsid3826080 maneuvers}{\insrsid7480392\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid10563774\charrsid3826080 
  Looking at lipstick from}{\insrsid9114811\charrsid3826080  a social }{\insrsid10563774\charrsid3826080 perspective}{\insrsid15532571\charrsid3826080 , people spent the 1970s busily rebelling both with and against lipstick}{
\insrsid3029828\charrsid3826080 , and product developments catered to }{\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080 each of }{\insrsid3029828\charrsid3826080 these }{\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080 divergent }{\insrsid3029828\charrsid3826080 rebellions}{
\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080  in turn}{\insrsid15532571\charrsid3826080 .  As it had so often before, lipstick became a symbol of social rebel}{\insrsid9114811\charrsid3826080 lion, adopted by both sexes of}{\insrsid15532571\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid11873277\charrsid3826080 the punk-}{\insrsid9114811\charrsid3826080 rock music and cultural movement}{\insrsid15532571\charrsid3826080  to express sex, violence, and general nonconformity.}{\cs16\super\insrsid15532571\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 25.  With lipstick\rquote s history of bisexual use widely unkn
own, the wearing of lipstick by male rock stars, such as David Bowie, Kiss, and Mick Jagger, passed as the utmost in ground-breaking rebelliousness.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{
\insrsid15532571\charrsid3826080   Purple and black became the most popular colors due to this contingent.}{\cs16\super\insrsid15532571\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid9114811\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid3029828\charrsid3826080 
Later in the decade, the disco style, yet another fashion originating from the music scene, also relied on lipstick for its deliberately provocative look.  }{\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080 Celebrity makeup artist }{\insrsid3029828\charrsid3826080 
Way Bandy\rquote s \lquote boogie-nights fac}{\insrsid10899700\charrsid3826080 e\rquote  revolved around the}{\insrsid3029828\charrsid3826080  deep}{\insrsid8021830\charrsid3826080 , glossy}{\insrsid3029828\charrsid3826080 
 red lips that now epitomize many people\rquote s conception of the 1970s.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3029828\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid3029828 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 597-98.}}}{\insrsid3029828\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid8021830\charrsid3826080 
When lipstick bullets themselves developed a gleaming finish, standard today but entirely new back then, it likely seemed a bold complement to these }{\insrsid13847375\charrsid3826080 bold}{\insrsid8021830\charrsid3826080  looks.  Whet}{
\insrsid138869\charrsid3826080 her by coincidence or considered}{\insrsid8021830\charrsid3826080  effort, }{\insrsid138869\charrsid3826080 just at the time t}{\insrsid12024954\charrsid3826080 hat musically-inspired looks}{\insrsid13847375\charrsid3826080 
 began to favor dark and shiny lipstick as a symbol of their rebellion}{\insrsid8021830\charrsid3826080 , manufacturer}{\insrsid12024954\charrsid3826080 s began flaming their lipsticks; that is, manufacturers sent}{\insrsid8021830\charrsid3826080 
 finished tubes of lipstick }{\insrsid13847375\charrsid3826080 through }{\insrsid8021830\charrsid3826080 flame}{\insrsid13847375\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid8021830\charrsid3826080  at high speed, so that the }{\insrsid13847375\charrsid3826080 lipsticks
\rquote  }{\insrsid8021830\charrsid3826080 outer wax coat}{\insrsid13847375\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid8021830\charrsid3826080  would melt and then re-solidify as a shiny shell}{\insrsid13847375\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid11873277\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid8021830\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 176.  Another trend that might repre
sent either coincidence or clever analysis of the market for rebelliousness, edgy designer Yves Saint Laurent began producing lipsticks labeled with cryptic numbers rather than descriptive names.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 25.  }}}{\insrsid8869816\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid15433676 {\insrsid9114811\charrsid3826080 On the polar opposite hand, however, feminists rebelled by not we
aring lipstick.  Doing an about-face from the previous wave of feminism, 1970s feminists protested not with but against lipstick, condemning the commercialized beauty business as degrading to women.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9114811\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Boock}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 60, at 38.}}}{\insrsid7869841\charrsid3826080   Feminists\rquote  staunchly no-makeup look}{
\insrsid1643975\charrsid3826080  little disturbed}{\insrsid7869841\charrsid3826080  cosmetics manufacturers}{\insrsid1643975\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7869841\charrsid3826080 though, as they had spent the previous ten to fifteen years }{
\insrsid1643975\charrsid3826080 wrestling }{\insrsid14697045\charrsid3826080 an aesthetically-motivated}{\insrsid7869841\charrsid3826080  no-makeup look.}{\cs16\super\insrsid8140706\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 During this decade, the lipstick business did quite well.  Yardley\rquote s factory alone, to give an English, but nonetheless illustrative, example, produced twenty thousand tubes of lipstick daily.  G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 2, at 175.}}}{\insrsid7869841\charrsid3826080   By the time }{\insrsid418810\charrsid3826080 that }{\insrsid7869841\charrsid3826080 
the 1970s rolled around}{\insrsid1643975\charrsid3826080 , cosmetics manufacturers had }{\insrsid418810\charrsid3826080 long since }{\insrsid1643975\charrsid3826080 regrouped against }{\insrsid14697045\charrsid3826080 anti-makeup impulses}{
\insrsid418810\charrsid3826080  with}{\insrsid8071206\charrsid3826080  \lquote natural look\rquote  makeup}{\insrsid14697045\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid15146146\charrsid3826080 which}{\insrsid1643975\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid15146146\charrsid3826080 
product lines }{\insrsid1643975\charrsid3826080 they }{\insrsid14697045\charrsid3826080 then simply repositioned as}{\insrsid418810\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid13125930\charrsid3826080 \'93celebrating}{\insrsid8071206\charrsid3826080  the liberated woman.
\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid13125930\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Boock}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 60, 
at 39.}}}{\insrsid14697045\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080  Cosmetics manufacturers likewise did not suffer too badly from the}{\insrsid12065316\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080 growing }{
\insrsid14697045\charrsid3826080 \lquote New Age\rquote  enthusiasm for }{\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080 \lquote }{\insrsid14697045\charrsid3826080 natural}{\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080 \rquote }{\insrsid14697045\charrsid3826080  pro}{
\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080 ducts}{\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080 .  To some extent, this }{\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080 trend}{\insrsid12065316\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080 cost the cosmeti}{
\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080 cs industry business, as potential lipstick customers opted for}{\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080  alternative measures, like staining their lips with raspberry }{\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080 juice}{
\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 5, at 591.}}}{\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080   In substantial part though, }{\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080 cosmetics companies could adequately meet }{\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080 the craze fo}{\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080 r \lquote 
natural\rquote  products with}{\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080 product enhancements or }{\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080 marketing gimmicks, }{\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080 depending upon one\rquote 
s perspective.  Lipstick}{\insrsid7754175\charrsid3826080  producers}{\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080  responses to New Age movement demands}{\insrsid7754175\charrsid3826080  included}{\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080 
: plant extracts showing up in lipstick ingredients,}{\cs16\super\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 25.}}}{\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080  formulas named and flavored like natural products,}{\cs16\super\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 3, at 66 (highlighting Bonnie Bell as particularly profiting from this approach, with the flavored lip glosses that the company introduced in 1973 still reigning as the world\rquote s top selling lip glosses today).}}}{
\insrsid9975716\charrsid3826080  and}{\insrsid16725122\charrsid3826080  a}{\insrsid8140706\charrsid3826080 dvertising emphasis on lipstick}{\insrsid16725122\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid8140706\charrsid3826080 \rquote }{\insrsid16725122\charrsid3826080 
 medicinal attributes.}{\cs16\super\insrsid16725122\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  G}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 unn}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 2, at 172-73.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 43 (writing that: \'93it [has become] the norm for make-up companies to gently fool the public into seeing cosmetics as scientific/medicinal potions\'85
 [by choosing] names that hint that make-up, if used well, can be a drug\'94); Koehn, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 165, at 243 (detailing that cosmetics giant Est\'e9
e Lauder added the designedly high-tech Prescriptives line to its armament in 1979, bolstering the line\rquote s scientifically professional image with lengthy makeup counter consultations).}}}{\insrsid2828650\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid6687759 {\insrsid10563774\charrsid3826080 \tab Looking at the 1970s lipstick world from a regulatory perspective}{\insrsid8023310\charrsid3826080 
 a similar number of contrary}{\insrsid10563774\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid8023310\charrsid3826080 forces came into play}{\insrsid10563774\charrsid3826080 .  Previously seen skirmishes over color additives continued, additio
nal conflicts over ingredient labeling developed, and}{\insrsid8023310\charrsid3826080 , at the same time,}{\insrsid10563774\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid13111813\charrsid3826080 a quivering partnership}{\insrsid8023310\charrsid3826080 
 between the FDA and the Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTFA)}{\insrsid13111813\charrsid3826080  materialized}{\insrsid8023310\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid13111813\charrsid3826080   Delisting o}{\insrsid11674269\charrsid3826080 f }{
\insrsid1848502\charrsid3826080 lipstick colorants}{\insrsid11674269\charrsid3826080  continued to occur, again apparently without much argument, until the FDA delisted Red No. 2.}{\cs16\super\insrsid15794949\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Red No. 2, as most succinctly characterized by the D.C. Appellate Court that ruled on this colorant\rquote s delisting, \'93is a petroleum derived color additive widely u
sed in [the United States] artificially to create or  brighten the white, brown, purple, or red colors of various foods, drugs, and cosmetics.\'94  Certified Color Mfrs. Ass\rquote 
n v. Mathews, 543 F.2d 284, 289 (1976).  As suggested by the above quotation, Red No.
 2 once stood as an FD&C color, meaning that manufacturers could incorporate the color additive into food, drugs, and cosmetics, as contrasted to D&C colors, which only have safety approval for use in drugs and cosmetics.  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 91.
  Since the distinction between FD&C and D&C colors matters much less to the history of cosmetics like lipstick than it does to the history of food, the body text of this paper does not obsess over the labels.}}}{\insrsid11674269\charrsid3826080 
  The FDA banned}{\cs16\super\insrsid11674269\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  More technically, the FDA removed Red. No. 2
 from its previous provisional listing status.  Those enacting the Color Additive Amendment recognized that requiring pre-approval for all colorants would result in a draconian ban on all colorants, and, hence, many products, unless there existed some buf
fer zone during which the FDA could complete some of the newly required safety screenings.  Therefore, the Amendment\rquote s \'93Transitional Provisions\'94
 authorized an initial thirty-day provisional listing, extendable by the Commissioner if desired, for the nine most commonly used colors.  21 USCS \'a7
376(a)(1) & (2).  Subsequently, the FDA extended this provisional listing status to twenty-three colors for many years, which extension survived legal challenge as being: (1) within the FDA\rquote s lawful authority and discreti
on under the Amendment, and (2) not arbitrary or irrational, because no previous evidence of safety problems with the colors existed, but the colors also had not yet undergone recently available, more rigorous safety tests.  McIlwain v.Hayes, 690 F.2d 104
1, 1043 (1982). From this long limbo of provisional listing then did Red No. 2 eventually drop to delisted status.}}}{\insrsid11674269\charrsid3826080  Red No. 2 on the basis of a Russian study\rquote 
s finding that the basic compound in Red No. 2, amaranth, caused cancer.}{\cs16\super\insrsid11674269\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Brewster,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 158, at 107.}}}{\insrsid7680591\charrsid3826080   This Russian}{\insrsid14184739\charrsid3826080  study did not provide particularly reliable data}{\insrsid7680591\charrsid3826080 , as}{\insrsid1848502\charrsid3826080 
 the study}{\insrsid7680591\charrsid3826080  involved a crude version of Red No. 2 different than that used in the United States.}{\cs16\super\insrsid7680591\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid7680591\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid1848502\charrsid3826080 
When the FDA tried duplicating the Russian study though, its lab mixed up the test rats and so ended up with no verifiable results.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1848502\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 I}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 d.}}}{\insrsid1848502\charrsid3826080   And, the cosmetics industry refused the FDA\rquote s command that the industry undertake a study of the color itself}{
\insrsid7488315\charrsid3826080 , deeming the undertaking}{\insrsid1848502\charrsid3826080  some combination of too expensive and too silly.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1848502\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid1848502\charrsid3826080   So,}{\insrsid7488315\charrsid3826080  the FDA ultimately terminated Red No. 2\rquote s provisional listing solely based on Russia}{
\insrsid5245924\charrsid3826080 \rquote s study.  A legal}{\insrsid7488315\charrsid3826080  challen}{\insrsid15882266\charrsid3826080 ge of this termination, }{\i\insrsid15882266\charrsid3826080 Certified Color Mfrs. Ass\rquote n v. Mathews}{
\insrsid15882266\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid11430314\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12590155\charrsid3826080 resulted in summary judgment}{\insrsid5245924\charrsid3826080  upholding}{\insrsid12590155\charrsid3826080  the FDA\rquote s decision}{
\insrsid11430314\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid15794949\charrsid3826080 bec}{\insrsid12590155\charrsid3826080 ause }{\insrsid14184739\charrsid3826080 the FDA had a }{\insrsid12590155\charrsid3826080 rational basis}{
\cs16\super\insrsid6308984\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  When ruling on FDA decisions made under the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, courts use t
he standard of review provided by the Administrative Procedure Act, which standard of review allows only for setting aside those agency decisions that \'93
are found to be arbitrary, capricious, an abuse of discretion or otherwise not in accordance with law."  Certified Color Mfrs. Ass\rquote n v. Mathews, 543 F.2d 284, at 293.  A revisitation of the previously discussed }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
Finch}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Abbott Labs.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , and }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Gardner}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 cases will, thus, also reveal instances of this standard of review.}}}{\insrsid14184739\charrsid3826080  for delisting once there existed}{\insrsid15794949\charrsid3826080  a suggest}{\insrsid14184739\charrsid3826080 ion of carcinogenicity and the s
ubsequent principal study under review could offer no contravening finding of safety}{\insrsid11430314\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid11430314\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 295.}}}{\insrsid14184739\charrsid3826080   In such manner did the United States become the only country}{\insrsid10960322\charrsid3826080  that does not allow use of Red}{
\insrsid14184739\charrsid3826080  No. 2.}{\cs16\super\insrsid14184739\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Brewster,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 158, at 107.}}}{
\insrsid15433676\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid6122177 {\insrsid10960322\charrsid3826080 \tab Along with such continued strife over incidents of }{\insrsid10307309\charrsid3826080 color delistings
, another federal}{\insrsid10960322\charrsid3826080  regulatory battle also arose}{\insrsid5912730\charrsid3826080 , this one unrelated to the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act}{\insrsid10960322\charrsid3826080 .  }{\insrsid5849097\charrsid3826080 
Beginning in 1973}{\insrsid10557997\charrsid3826080 , the FDA }{\insrsid5912730\charrsid3826080 exercised}{\insrsid10557997\charrsid3826080  its authority under the Fair Pack}{\insrsid5912730\charrsid3826080 aging and Labeling Act to require}{
\insrsid10557997\charrsid3826080  that lipstick and }{\insrsid3689406\charrsid3826080 all }{\insrsid10557997\charrsid3826080 other cosmetics }{\insrsid3689406\charrsid3826080 intended for consumer sale }{\insrsid10557997\charrsid3826080 
come with full ingredient labeling.}{\cs16\super\insrsid10557997\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Donegan,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 188, at 155.  Since the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act only covers \'93consumer commodities,\'94 the FDA could only require labeling of those cosmetics intended for consumer sale, not cosmetics intended for professional use or for distri
bution as free samples.  Heinz J. Eiermann, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Cosmetic Ingredient Labeling: an American Experience}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 107}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Cosm. & Toiletries}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Aug. 1992, at 57.}}}{\insrsid10557997\charrsid3826080   Ingredient names}{\insrsid5912730\charrsid3826080 , listed}{\insrsid10557997\charrsid3826080  in descending order of predominance and in proper nomenclature}{
\insrsid5912730\charrsid3826080 ,}{\cs16\super\insrsid10557997\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Proper nomenclature entails listing ingredients under those names provided in an elaborate hierarchy of sources for ingredient names.  Manufacturers must use ingredients
\rquote  FDA-prescribed names if such names exist.  Eiermann, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 340, at 57.  If, as in the case of most ingredients, the FDA has not prescribed its own names, then manufacturers must list ingredients
 under the names dictated by the following set of compendia, in descending order of authority: the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, the United States Pharmacopeia, the National Formulary, the Food Chemical Codex, USAN, and the USP Ditionary of Drug Na
mes.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
.  Should an ingredient neither have an FDA-prescribed name nor appear in any of the aforementioned compendia, then manufacturers must list it under either a name generally recognized by consumers or a chemical or technical name.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid10557997\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5912730\charrsid3826080 now }{\insrsid10557997\charrsid3826080 needed to appear on all packaging.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid10557997\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Donegan,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 155.}}}{\insrsid5912730\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid10307309\charrsid3826080 Any ingredients used for flavor or fragrance purposes also needed to receive identification as such.}{\cs16\super\insrsid10307309\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Eiermann, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 340, at 57.}}}{\insrsid10307309\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9911166\charrsid3826080 For cosmetics that also qu}{\insrsid12352943\charrsid3826080 alified as drugs,}{
\cs16\super\insrsid12352943\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  This particular stipulation did not much affect lipstick at the time, but has become applicable recently with lipsticks\rquote  inclusion of sunscreen.}}}{\insrsid15796312\charrsid3826080 
 active drug ingredients in the cosmetics}{\insrsid12352943\charrsid3826080  needed to}{\insrsid15796312\charrsid3826080 : be listed first, be }{\insrsid9911166\charrsid3826080 listed not only on the outer but also on the inn}{
\insrsid15796312\charrsid3826080 er container labels, and be }{\insrsid9911166\charrsid3826080 identified as \'93active ingredients.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid9911166\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Eiermann, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 340, at 57.}}}{\insrsid9911166\charrsid3826080   These}{\insrsid5849097\charrsid3826080  notions of c}{\insrsid5715992\charrsid3826080 osmetics labeling}{
\insrsid5849097\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5912730\charrsid3826080 
had percolated for several years, ever since the passage of the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act in 1966, because the FDA had originally hesitated over whether the Act really gave the FDA authority to require cosmetics labeling.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid5912730\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid6122177\charrsid3826080   Th}{\insrsid5715992\charrsid3826080 e FDA had originally proposed }{\insrsid6122177\charrsid3826080 
voluntary labeling of cosmetics ingredients in 1972, which }{\insrsid5715992\charrsid3826080 proposal }{\insrsid6122177\charrsid3826080 the cosmetics industry rejected}{\insrsid3689406\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid6122177\charrsid3826080 
 only to have Georgetown professor Joseph Page, his student Anthony Young, and the Consumer Federation of America eventually convince the FDA that it could impose even stricter mandatory labeling requirements.}{\cs16\super\insrsid6122177\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .  The F
DA inclined strongly towards requiring cosmetics labeling, if possible, because it expected that labeling would help consumers and dermatologists avoid allergy problems, and would also help reduce manufacturers\rquote 
 unreasonable claims based on knowledge that the list of ingredients would undercut such claims.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}}}{\insrsid9911166\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid15796312\charrsid3826080 
Upon initial publication of the labeling requirements, a}{\insrsid9911166\charrsid3826080 nyone adversely}{\insrsid15796312\charrsid3826080  affected by the }{\insrsid9911166\charrsid3826080 requirements had the right to object and request a hearing, w
hich industry representatives duly proceeded to do until 1975.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9911166\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid5010750\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid9911166\charrsid3826080 Industry objections noted but not satisfied, the FDA phased in the new cosmetics labeling requirements over eighteen months, permitting exhaustion of existing inventories of lipsticks and oth
er cosmetics so as to mitigate labeling requirements\rquote  economic impact.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9911166\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid15796312\charrsid3826080 
  At that point, the cosmetics industry}{\insrsid13270549\charrsid3826080 , in }{\i\insrsid13270549\charrsid3826080 Independent Cosmetic Mfrs. & Distributors, Inc. v}{\i\insrsid13270549\charrsid3826080  United States Dep\rquote 
t of Health, Educ. and Welfare}{\insrsid13270549\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid15796312\charrsid3826080 turned to the court system}{\insrsid13270549\charrsid3826080  f}{\insrsid15796312\charrsid3826080 o}{\insrsid13270549\charrsid3826080 r}{
\insrsid15796312\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid13270549\charrsid3826080 declaratory and injunctive relief against the labeling requirements}{\insrsid15796312\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid15882266\charrsid3826080   The }{\insrsid14433575\charrsid3826080 
D.C. District Court dismissed the suit for want}{\insrsid15882266\charrsid3826080  of jurisdiction,}{\insrsid14433575\charrsid3826080  which dismissal t}{\insrsid15882266\charrsid3826080 he D.C. Appellate Court upheld}{\insrsid11225950\charrsid3826080 
 based on}{\insrsid14433575\charrsid3826080  the }{\insrsid11225950\charrsid3826080 Fair Packaging and Labeling }{\insrsid14433575\charrsid3826080 Act}{\insrsid16720613\charrsid3826080 \rquote s specifying}{\insrsid14433575\charrsid3826080 
 federal appella}{\insrsid16720613\charrsid3826080 te courts as the forum for}{\insrsid11225950\charrsid3826080  challenges to regulations promulgated under the Act}{\insrsid9118997\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid9118997\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Independent Cosmetic Mfrs. & Distributors, Inc. v}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  United States Dep\rquote 
t of Health, Educ. & Welfare, 574 F.2d 553, 554-55 (1978).  Actually, the Appellate Court also further elaborated on this jurisdictional holding, in order to address the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act\rquote 
s savings clause, which allows for concurrent jurisdiction by trial courts.  Recent binding precedent of }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Nader v. Volpe,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  466 F.2d 261 (1972), pointed out the Appellate Cou
rt, limits the exercise of jurisdiction created only by savings clauses to those instances in which Congress\rquote  specified first choice of judicial review fails to provide an adequate remedy \'93because of some extraordinary circumstances\'94
 not present in this case.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 554.  Only in \'93instances of agency action which is }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ultra vires}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 or damaging beyond the capability of the statutory procedure to repair,\'94 may a court other than an Act\rquote s specified first-choice court exercise jurisdiction created by a saving clause.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 554.}}}{\insrsid9118997\charrsid3826080   Then, because the Appellate Court did have jurisdiction}{\insrsid16720613\charrsid3826080  to hear the suit}{\insrsid9118997\charrsid3826080 , t}{
\insrsid6324163\charrsid3826080 he Court went}{\insrsid10697777\charrsid3826080  on to }{\insrsid11760046\charrsid3826080 consider and rule against the industry\rquote s substantive and procedural challenges to the FDA\rquote s labeling regulation}{
\insrsid10697777\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid4618316\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 560, (writing that: \'93We deny, in No. 75-1845, ICMAD\rquote 
s petition for review. The challenge to the substance of the 1973 regulation is untimely; the attack on the procedure followed in amending the regulation fails because no prejudice has been shown.\'94).}}}{\insrsid10697777\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid11760046\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid4618316\charrsid3826080 After the Supreme Court denied certiorai,}{\cs16\super\insrsid4618316\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
Independent Cosmetic Mfrs. & Distributors, Inc. v}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  United States Dep\rquote t of Health, Educ. & Welfare, 439 U.S. 893 (1978).}}}{\insrsid14572018\charrsid3826080 
 the cosmetics industry settled down to obeying ingredient labeling laws, which have since grown increasingly detailed as well as increasingly accepted.}{\cs16\super\insrsid14572018\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Eiermann, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 340, at 57 (enumerating additional facets of cosmetics labeling law, including: a petition 
process for avoiding listing trade secret ingredients, rules for alternative off-package ingredient listing on mail-order cosmetics, and itemization of the incidental ingredients that do not require listing).}}}{\insrsid6122177\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid10446450 {\insrsid1967334\charrsid3826080 \tab Simultaneous to this fighting}{\insrsid15096310\charrsid3826080 
 over delisting of colorants and listing of ingredient}{\insrsid1967334\charrsid3826080  though}{\insrsid15096310\charrsid3826080 , the }{\insrsid1967334\charrsid3826080 FDA and the cosmetics industry, as represented by the CTFA,}{
\insrsid15096310\charrsid3826080  also cultivated an uneasy partnership.}{\insrsid1967334\charrsid3826080   As early as the 1960s, the FDA and CTFA had begun working more or less together to mediate the FDA\rquote s goa}{\insrsid13060730\charrsid3826080 
l of cosmetics safety and}{\insrsid1967334\charrsid3826080  the CTFA\rquote s goal of avoiding cosmetics regulations.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1967334\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Greff,}{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 147, at 245 (describing how \'93initiative [had] switched back and forth\'94 between the FDA and CTFA since the 1960s, \'93
with industry proposing voluntary programs, and the FDA calling for refinements and clarifications in industry procedures\'94).}}}{\insrsid1967334\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid12386333\charrsid3826080 
This collaboration produced most tangible results starting in the 1970s, however, with the initiation of the Voluntary Cosmetic Reporting Program in 1974, the for
mation of the Cosmetic Ingredient Review body in 1976, and negotiations over cosmetics Good Manufacturing Practice guidelines beginning in 1977.}{\insrsid13060730\charrsid3826080 
  The Voluntary Cosmetic Reporting program represented a compromise by which manufacturers would voluntarily giv
e the FDA information about the location of manufacturing establishments, the ingredients used in products, and incidents of adverse reactions to products, in exchange for the FDA not implementing mandatory reporting regulations.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid13060730\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Donegan,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 157 (further explaining that \'93
although the [reporting] program is voluntary, the procedure for providing information [under the program] is established in FDA regulations\'94).  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 21 C.F. R. \'a7
710-720 (2006) (spelling out the procedures for voluntary reporting on manufacturing facilities and ingredients).}}}{\insrsid16613060\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid227788\charrsid3826080 To apply this}{\insrsid9653584\charrsid3826080  regulatory
 scheme to lipstick}{\insrsid227788\charrsid3826080 : a lipstick manufacturer }{\insrsid9653584\charrsid3826080 wishing to maintain good FDA relations could fill}{\insrsid227788\charrsid3826080  out information forms on }{\insrsid9653584\charrsid3826080 
its }{\insrsid227788\charrsid3826080 lipstick manufacturing plants, }{\insrsid9653584\charrsid3826080 its }{\insrsid227788\charrsid3826080 lipstick ingredients, and any reported problems with }{\insrsid9653584\charrsid3826080 its }{
\insrsid227788\charrsid3826080 lipsticks, but }{\insrsid9653584\charrsid3826080 the lipstick manufacturer
 would not absolutely have to do so.  Due to this last option of not having to file reports if the costs of doing so seem to outweigh the goodwill benefits, Voluntary Cosmetic Reporting did}{\insrsid16019910\charrsid3826080  not }{
\insrsid9653584\charrsid3826080 prove }{\insrsid16019910\charrsid3826080 an unqualified success, as discussed late}{\insrsid9653584\charrsid3826080 r.  It does, however, still exist}{\insrsid16019910\charrsid3826080  in revised form today}{
\insrsid11148542\charrsid3826080 .
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid1454145 {\insrsid16019910\charrsid3826080 More complete success seems to have resulted from }{\insrsid11159398\charrsid3826080 the }{
\insrsid16019910\charrsid3826080 contemporaneously formed }{\insrsid11159398\charrsid3826080 Cosmetic I}{\insrsid16019910\charrsid3826080 ngredient Review}{\insrsid10122827\charrsid3826080 , as measured by the relative lack }{
\insrsid11159398\charrsid3826080 of FDA and consumer mumblings about the process as well as by the }{\insrsid10122827\charrsid3826080 alternate }{\insrsid11159398\charrsid3826080 cost of the FDA taking the ingredient review process upon itself.}{
\insrsid10122827\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid2504613\charrsid3826080 Scholars disagree as to whether the initial suggestion of creating a cosmetic}{\insrsid9201545\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid2504613\charrsid3826080 
 industry-funded ingredient review board came from the FDA or from the CTFA.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2504613\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Donegan,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 188, at 156 (asserting that the FDA originally considered creating a cosmetics review body itself, but then decided it better to use agency resources elsewhere and induced the cosmetics industry to take on ingredient reviews).  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 But see}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Greff,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 147, at 245 (suggesting that the CTFA perceived a threat in the FDA\rquote 
s new over-the-counter drug ingredient review, and so initiated a cosmetics industry ingredient review in the hopes that this voluntary industry-administered review would ward off a mandatory government-administered review).}}}{
\insrsid2504613\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9201545\charrsid3826080 However, one or the other of these entities initiated exploratory meetings on cosmetics ingredient testing in 1974, followed by a series of briefings and review meetings in 1975.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid9201545\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Greff,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 147, at 245.}}}{\insrsid9201545\charrsid3826080   The Consumers Union, upon hearing about these meetings, brought }{
\i\insrsid9201545\charrsid3826080 Consumers Union}{\i\insrsid8267624\charrsid3826080  of United States, Inc.}{\i\insrsid9201545\charrsid3826080  v. Dept. of Health, Educ., & Welfare}{\insrsid8267624\charrsid3826080 
, challenging that the meetings qualified as advisory committee meetings and}{\insrsid9453759\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid8267624\charrsid3826080  under the}{\insrsid16019910\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid8267624\charrsid3826080 Federal Advisory Committee Act
}{\insrsid9453759\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid8267624\charrsid3826080  needed to}{\insrsid9201545\charrsid3826080  occur in public.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9201545\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Consumers Union of United States, Inc. v. Dept. of Health, Educ., & Welfare, 409 F. Supp. 473, 474 (1976)}}}{\insrsid9201545\charrsid3826080   Although the Consumers Union lost the case on summary judgment,}{\cs16\super\insrsid8267624\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 477 (holding that: \'93In the present matter FDA was not undertaking a regulatory program\'85
 At issue were not agency policy matters which FDA could consider and resolve, with assistance from an advisory group. Rather, FDA had before it a voluntary plan drafted b
y CTFA, to be amended by CTFA, and eventually to be implemented or rejected by CTFA. In the final analysis, the action to be taken and the decisions to be made were unilateral. The Court concludes that FDA was not obtaining advice or recommendations from 
CTFA at the meetings and that the parties were therefore not bound by the provisions of the Federal Advisory Committee Act. Neither chartering of CTFA nor public access to FDA-CTFA meetings is required.\'94).}}}{\insrsid9453759\charrsid3826080  the Cons
umers Union}{\insrsid9201545\charrsid3826080  nonetheless succeeded}{\insrsid8267624\charrsid3826080  in bringing about the}{\insrsid9201545\charrsid3826080  formation of a somewhat publicly-accessible Cosmetic Ingredient Review body.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid8267624\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Greff,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 147, at 246.}}}{\insrsid12465844\charrsid3826080   Said}{\insrsid10122827\charrsid3826080  Cosmetic Ingredient Review body}{
\insrsid12465844\charrsid3826080 , officially}{\insrsid10122827\charrsid3826080  for}{\insrsid12465844\charrsid3826080 med }{\insrsid11148542\charrsid3826080 in 1976, took}{\insrsid10122827\charrsid3826080  the FDA\rquote }{
\insrsid2504613\charrsid3826080 s own developing Over-The-}{\insrsid10122827\charrsid3826080 Counter Drug Review body}{\insrsid11148542\charrsid3826080  as its model}{\insrsid10122827\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid10122827\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Donegan,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 156.}}}{\insrsid16475135\charrsid3826080   T}{\insrsid2504613\charrsid3826080 he }{\insrsid16475135\charrsid3826080 
Cosmetic Ingredient Review has the stated }{\insrsid2504613\charrsid3826080 goal of providing \'93independent, public expert review of the most frequently}{\insrsid16475135\charrsid3826080 -used cosmetic ingredients.}{\insrsid9453759\charrsid3826080 \'94}
{\cs16\super\insrsid16475135\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid3943881\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid16475135\charrsid3826080  To accomplish this goal, the }{\insrsid9453759\charrsid3826080 C}{
\insrsid10446450\charrsid3826080 osmetic Ingredient Review }{\insrsid16475135\charrsid3826080 features}{\insrsid3943881\charrsid3826080  an}{\insrsid2504613\charrsid3826080  Expert Panel of seven scientists and phy}{\insrsid9453759\charrsid3826080 sicians
}{\cs16\super\insrsid10446450\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  These scientists and physicians represent the disciplines of chemistry, dermatology, oncology, pharmacology, and toxicology.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{
\insrsid9453759\charrsid3826080  who}{\insrsid10446450\charrsid3826080 se assessment}{\insrsid2520946\charrsid3826080  of ingredients}{\insrsid9453759\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3943881\charrsid3826080 is overseen by three non-voting lia}{
\insrsid2520946\charrsid3826080 i}{\insrsid3943881\charrsid3826080 son representatives}{\insrsid16475135\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid3943881\charrsid3826080  appointed by }{\insrsid2504613\charrsid3826080 the FDA, the CTFA as}{
\insrsid2520946\charrsid3826080  industry spokesperson}{\insrsid2504613\charrsid3826080 , and the Consumer Federation of America as consumer watchdog}{\insrsid3943881\charrsid3826080  respectively}{\insrsid2504613\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid3943881\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid10446450\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid4341221\charrsid3826080 Voting Expert Panel members}{\insrsid11148542\charrsid3826080 
, selected via public nomination}{\cs16\super\insrsid15739292\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  The nomination process, to ensure Expert Panel independence, also involves conflict-of intere
st checks using the same standards as applied under federal law to FDA advisory committee members.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid11148542\charrsid3826080 
 by scientific and clinical societies, government agencies, and consumer organization}{\insrsid14166528\charrsid3826080 s, }{\insrsid16475135\charrsid3826080 ask that manufacturers submit test data for or undertake costly tests on ingredients }{
\insrsid4341221\charrsid3826080 that have made the Cosmetic Ingredient Review\rquote s \'93priority list\'94 based on the ingredients\rquote  frequency of use or suspected or known toxicity}{\insrsid16475135\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid16475135\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 What Price Beauty: Judging the Safety of What Goes in Your Hair And on Your Face}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Wash. Post}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , July 1, 1986, (Health), at 12 (hereinafter \'93}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 What Price Beauty}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \'94).}}}{\insrsid16475135\charrsid3826080 
  Panelists then review the results that manufacturers submit, and }{\insrsid12856199\charrsid3826080 determine ingredients safe, unsafe, or undeterminable due to lack of sufficient data.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12856199\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid12856199 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Donegan,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 156}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080   }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Greff,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 147, at 246 (adding that ingredients declared \'93safe\'94 may, more specifically, be declared either \lquote 
safe as currently used\rquote  or \lquote safe with qualifications).}}}{\insrsid12856199\charrsid3826080   Determinations receive publication in an annual }{\i\insrsid12856199\charrsid3826080 CIR Compendium}{\insrsid12856199\charrsid3826080 
, which determinations the industry tends to rely upon but is not bound to follow.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12856199\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid12856199 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Greff,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 147, at 246.  }}}{
\insrsid12856199\charrsid3826080   
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid3103126 {\insrsid2049175\charrsid3826080 Along similarly advisory but not mandatory lines, the FDA and CTFA began negotiating over 
creation of cosmetics Good Manufacturing Practices.  In 1977, the FDA announced that }{\insrsid2048622\charrsid3826080 it intended to institute}{\insrsid2049175\charrsid3826080 
 Good Manufacturing Practices for eye make-up preservatives as a first step towards }{\insrsid5928083\charrsid3826080 having }{\insrsid2049175\charrsid3826080 Good Manuf}{\insrsid5928083\charrsid3826080 acturing Practices for all types}{
\insrsid2049175\charrsid3826080  of cosmetics.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2049175\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 
{\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid2049175\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid13984892\charrsid3826080 Rather than }{
\insrsid5928083\charrsid3826080 protesting against such imposition of Good Manufacturing Practices}{\insrsid13984892\charrsid3826080 , the CTFA }{\insrsid5928083\charrsid3826080 merely }{\insrsid13984892\charrsid3826080 
filed a petition stating what the industry would prefer to see in such cosmetics Good Manufacturing Practices.}{\cs16\super\insrsid13984892\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. (hinting that this CTFA willingness to engage in a discussion of how to best structure cosmetics Good Manufacturing Practices might have involved a strategic decision that having cosmetics Good Manufacturing Practices might save cosmetics t
hat were also drugs from falling subject to much stricter drug Good Manufacturing Practices).}}}{\insrsid5928083\charrsid3826080   The FDA then incorporated }{\insrsid5835077\charrsid3826080 the cosmetics industry\rquote s petition into the}{
\insrsid5928083\charrsid3826080  Good Manufacturing Practice guidelines featured in the FDA \'93Investigations Operations Manual.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid5928083\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid5835077\charrsid3826080   Since then, the FDA has removed the guidelines and so ended federal cosmetics Good Manufacturing Practices altogether.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid5835077\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . (further specifying that the FDA removed the guidelines in 1990 and requested that the CTFA withdraw its petition in 1994).}}}{
\insrsid13107427\charrsid3826080   Despite the cosmetics Good Manufacturing Practices}{\insrsid6713233\charrsid3826080 \rquote }{\insrsid13107427\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid8595765\charrsid3826080 minor}{\insrsid13107427\charrsid3826080 
 importance as regulations t}{\insrsid13459529\charrsid3826080 hough, they retain}{\insrsid13107427\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid8595765\charrsid3826080 major }{\insrsid13107427\charrsid3826080 
historical importance as a formative instance of FDA and cosmetics industry collaboration}{\insrsid13459529\charrsid3826080 .  Amidst the legal battling between the FDA and the cosmetics industry}{\insrsid6713233\charrsid3826080 
 over color delistings and labeling requirements}{\insrsid13459529\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid6713233\charrsid3826080 the two also managed to develop the collaborative relationship that characterizes current government-industry relations, and}{
\insrsid13459529\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid6713233\charrsid3826080 informs the }{\insrsid11813570\charrsid3826080 sparing regulation of cosmetics }{\insrsid6713233\charrsid3826080 as compared to }{\insrsid11813570\charrsid3826080 the regulation of foo
ds and drugs}{\insrsid6713233\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid8616756\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Cosmetics currently stan
d the only FDA-regulated product group that does not have its own, individual center within the FDA, and \'93requirements for cosmetics are substantially less extensive and complex than [are] requirements for foods, drugs, or medical devices.\'94  Greff,}
{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 147, at 248.}}}{\insrsid11813570\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid8595765\charrsid3826080 Along with all cosmetics, lipstick underwent }{\insrsid11813570\charrsid3826080 
increased federal safe}{\insrsid8595765\charrsid3826080 ty regulation in the 1970s, but of }{\insrsid11813570\charrsid3826080 a lenient voluntary nature.}{\insrsid8595765\charrsid3826080   Although lipstick\rquote 
s social signification and accompanying social norms }{\insrsid10899700\charrsid3826080 evolved in }{\insrsid8595765\charrsid3826080 uniquely }{\insrsid10899700\charrsid3826080 conflicted ways}{\insrsid8595765\charrsid3826080  during the 1970s, lipstick
\rquote s legal regulat}{\insrsid10899700\charrsid3826080 ion included}{\insrsid8595765\charrsid3826080  few, if any, idiosyncrasies.}{\insrsid15498280\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid1455047 {\i\insrsid1455047\charrsid3826080 1980s}{\insrsid1455047\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid12090239 {\insrsid12530114\charrsid3826080 \tab Developments that}{\insrsid2715387\charrsid3826080  encompassed but did not focus on}{
\insrsid12530114\charrsid3826080  lipstick even more strongly characterized the 1980s}{\insrsid3766374\charrsid3826080 \rquote }{\insrsid2715387\charrsid3826080  informal and formal regulatory environment}{\insrsid12530114\charrsid3826080 
.  The individual product of lipstick changed little in the 1980s, either socially or technologically.  Red became the de rigeur color, worn by all cosmetics icons from Madonna}{\insrsid2715387\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid12530114\charrsid3826080 
 to Jerry Hall}{\insrsid2715387\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid12530114\charrsid3826080  to Ivana Trump}{\insrsid2715387\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid12530114\charrsid3826080  to Nancy Re}{\insrsid10957847\charrsid3826080 a}{\insrsid12530114\charrsid3826080 
gan.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12530114\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 5, at 602.}}}{\insrsid2715387\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid3766374\charrsid3826080 Advertising lipsticks as not tested on animals just began to gain market cache.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3766374\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 600.}}}{\insrsid3766374\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid2715387\charrsid3826080 Beyond that}{\insrsid7545330\charrsid3826080 , however}{\insrsid2715387\charrsid3826080 
, it appears that no lipstick-spe}{\insrsid3766374\charrsid3826080 cific news merited contemporary }{\insrsid2715387\charrsid3826080 documentation.  Plenty of regulatory events involving cosm}{\insrsid1783441\charrsid3826080 etics generally}{
\insrsid7545330\charrsid3826080  did occur though, attention prudent}{\insrsid8148387\charrsid3826080  given that the }{\insrsid8868034\charrsid3826080 global }{\insrsid8148387\charrsid3826080 cosmetics industry had }{\insrsid7545330\charrsid3826080 grown
}{\insrsid8148387\charrsid3826080  into $118 billion behemoth}{\insrsid2715387\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid8148387\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Rita Rubin, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
Toxic Beauty Wrinkles? Dry Skin? Oily Hair? Just How Safe Are the Products that Promise to Solve Cosmetic Blemishes?}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Chi. Trib.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, Dec. 7, 1988, (Style) at 20.  Lipstick accounted for a large fraction of this figure, with worldwide lipstick sales totaling $580 million in 1986, and worldwide lipstick sales totaling an additional $140 million that year.  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 83.}}}{\insrsid11234692\charrsid3826080   Most noteworthy among the regulatory}{
\insrsid2715387\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11234692\charrsid3826080 events came}{\insrsid2715387\charrsid3826080 : }{\insrsid9399024\charrsid3826080 continuing}{\insrsid16004317\charrsid3826080  color delistings, }{\insrsid9399024\charrsid3826080 
continuing}{\insrsid1380463\charrsid3826080  industry self-regulatory measures}{\insrsid16004317\charrsid3826080 , and a }{\insrsid4548084\charrsid3826080 new burst of state legislation}{\insrsid1380463\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid8148387\charrsid3826080 

\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid6427101 {\insrsid3103126\charrsid3826080 Despite its own vociferous dislike of do
ing so, the FDA delisted several more cosmetics colors during the 1980s.  Initially, the FDA tried to avoid delisting colors, because it considered the Delaney Clause standard for del}{\insrsid8150913\charrsid3826080 isting, }{
\insrsid1783441\charrsid3826080 namely }{\insrsid8150913\charrsid3826080 any risk of cancer }{\insrsid3103126\charrsid3826080 no matter how minute, simply illogical.}{\cs16\super\insrsid6180160\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Furthermore, the FDA had recently won a case 
in which it refused to delist a color additive as carcinogenic.  Scott v. Food & Drug Admin., 723 F.2d 322, 325-26 (1984) (holding that the FDA can permanently list Green No. 5 as approved for use in drugs and cosmetics, because only an impurity within Gr
een No. 5 rather than Green No. 5 taken as a whole has been shown to cause cancer). }}}{\insrsid6427101\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid3103126\charrsid3826080 This stra}{\insrsid8150913\charrsid3826080 tegy backfired though, when }{
\insrsid3103126\charrsid3826080 Secretary of Health and Human Services Margaret Heckler }{\insrsid8150913\charrsid3826080 had to face legislative charges of}{\insrsid3103126\charrsid3826080 
 willfully violating the law by not banning dyes known to cause cancer.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3103126\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 A Lipstick You Can Live With,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Wash. Post}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , July 3, 1985, at A16 (commenting on Heckler\rquote s hearing before the House Government Operations Committee and the surrounding cosmetics safety issue).}}}{
\insrsid3103126\charrsid3826080   Heckler ar}{\insrsid864990\charrsid3826080 gued in defense that a de minimi}{\insrsid3103126\charrsid3826080 s exceptio
n to the Delaney Clause existed, that Congress did not intend to ban colorants whose normal usage posed only the smallest risk of cancer to humans.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3103126\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid3103126\charrsid3826080   This argument did not much satisfy }{\insrsid5071847\charrsid3826080 many members of }{\insrsid3103126\charrsid3826080 Congress,}{
\cs16\super\insrsid5071847\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  While the FDA stance on how to handle carcinogenic colorants did not meet with much favor, it would overstate the case to claim that no Congresspersons grasped the FDA\rquote 
s point.  Senator Orrin Hatch and Congressman Al Gore several times attempted to reform the Delaney Clause so that it would reflect new scientific knowledge that there exist safe levels of potentially carcinogenic substances.  Degnan & Flamm}{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 281, at 255.}}}{\insrsid3103126\charrsid3826080  or the consumer group Public Citizen,}{
\cs16\super\insrsid6891494\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Public Citizen, formally named the \'93Public Citizen Health Research Group\'94 by founder Ralph Nader, argued no risk of cancer permissible.  Deborah Blumenthal, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
4 Dyes Fading Under Scrutiny By U.S. Courts}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 N.Y. Times}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , July 9, 1988, \'a71 (Style Desk) at 52.}}}{\insrsid3103126\charrsid3826080  which }{
\insrsid5071847\charrsid3826080 brought suit against FDA Commissioner Frank E. Young for having approved }{\insrsid864990\charrsid3826080 external }{\insrsid5071847\charrsid3826080 
use of Red No. 10 and Orange No. 17 despite knowledge that both substances can cause liver cancer in rats.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5071847\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Public Citizen v. Young, 831 F.2d 1108 (1987).}}}{\insrsid12203724\charrsid3826080   Douglas }{\insrsid939173\charrsid3826080 Letter argued }{\insrsid12203724\charrsid3826080 on behalf of the FDA}{\insrsid939173\charrsid3826080  that: \'93Because the ri
sks presented by these dyes were so small\'85 [the agency] had \lquote inherent authority\rquote  under the de minimis doctrine to list them for use in spite of [the Delaney Clause}{\insrsid87394\charrsid3826080 ]}{\insrsid939173\charrsid3826080 
 language.}{\cs16\super\insrsid864990\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 1111.}}}{\insrsid87394\charrsid3826080 
  Peter Barton Hutt argued on behalf of intervenor CTFA }{\insrsid12203724\charrsid3826080 that}{\insrsid87394\charrsid3826080 : \'93M}{\insrsid12203724\charrsid3826080 anufacturers need
 a wide choice of colors, just as the Renaissance artist needed a full spectrum on his palette centuries a}{\insrsid864990\charrsid3826080 go}{\insrsid87394\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid864990\charrsid3826080 \'94}{
\cs16\super\insrsid12203724\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  When the Judge questioned whether Hutt really expected her to equate manufacturers\rquote  use of Red No. 19 in cosmetics with Michelangelo\rquote 
s use of paints on the Sistine Chapel, Hutt dropped the argument.  He did, after all, have more serious argum
ents about putting the risk of Red No. 19 and Orange No. 17 into realistic perspective; Hutt pointed out that an entire lifetime of using Red No. 19 would pose ten times less risk of cancer than would eating one charbroiled steak each year or so.  Morton 
Mintz, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Carcinogenic Dyes Have Colorful Day in Court; Cosmetics Industry Invokes Michelangelo in Effort to Win Approval}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Wash. Post}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , March 27, 1987, at F1.}}}{\insrsid12203724\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid8150913\charrsid3826080  Despite these FDA and }{\insrsid87394\charrsid3826080 CTFA }{\insrsid8150913\charrsid3826080 arguments}{
\insrsid87394\charrsid3826080 , and despite }{\insrsid8150913\charrsid3826080 judicial agreement that}{\insrsid87394\charrsid3826080  the colorants}{\insrsid8150913\charrsid3826080  posed only }{\insrsid87394\charrsid3826080 \'93trivial}{
\insrsid12090239\charrsid3826080 \'94}{\insrsid8150913\charrsid3826080  risk,}{\insrsid87394\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12203724\charrsid3826080 the D.C. Court of Appeals }{\insrsid87394\charrsid3826080 ruled in favor o}{\insrsid12090239\charrsid3826080 
f Public Citizen.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12090239\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Public Citizen v. Young, 831 F.2d 1108, at 1121-1122.}}}{\insrsid12090239\charrsid3826080   The Court wrote:
\par }\pard \qj \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid12090239 {\insrsid12090239\charrsid3826080 We hold that the Delaney Clause of the Color Additive Amendments does not contain an implicit }{
\i\insrsid12090239\charrsid3826080 de minimis}{\insrsid12090239\charrsid3826080  exception for carcinogenic dyes with trivial risks to humans. We base this decision on our understan
ding that Congress adopted an "extraordinarily rigid" position, denying the FDA authority to list a dye once it found it to "induce cancer in . . . animals" in the conventional sense of the term. We believe that, in the color additive context, Congress in
tended that if this rule produced unexpected or undesirable consequences, the agency should come to it for relief. That moment may well have arrived, but we cannot provide the desired escape.}{\insrsid5071847\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid10107469 {\insrsid12090239\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid11366359 {\insrsid7608346\charrsid3826080 Following denial of certiorari by the Supreme Court,}{\cs16\super\insrsid7608346\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Ass\rquote n v. Public Citizen, 485 U.S.1006 (1988) (\'93The petition for writ of certiorari is denied\'94).}}}{\insrsid7608346\charrsid3826080  the FDA ba
nned Red No. 19 and Orange No. 17, as well as Red No. 8 and Red No. 9}{\insrsid4612855\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid7608346\charrsid3826080  to much fanfare.}{\insrsid10107469\charrsid3826080 
  This ban marked the first color additive delisting since 1976, and the only time that so many colors had gotten delisted at once.}{\cs16\super\insrsid10107469\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Philip J. Hilts, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 FDA to Ban 4 Additives in Cosmetics, Drugs}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Wash. Post}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, June 7, 1988, at A21 (also providing the statistic that, prior to delisting, the cosmetics and drug industries had produced one-hundred and sixty-five thousand pounds of these dyes annually).}}}{\insrsid10107469\charrsid3826080 
  The lawyer for Public Citizen, William B. Schultz, proclaimed the ban a public v}{\insrsid6891494\charrsid3826080 ictory, because it involved lo}{\insrsid10107469\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid6891494\charrsid3826080 ing }{\insrsid10107469\charrsid3826080 
no health benefit and }{\insrsid6891494\charrsid3826080 gaining a little cancer prevention}{\insrsid10107469\charrsid3826080 .  Schultz told }{\i\insrsid10107469\charrsid3826080 The Washington Post}{\insrsid10107469\charrsid3826080 : \'93
For cosmetics, it may mean that there are a few shades of lipstick that will be lost.  I think that will make no difference to people.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid10107469\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid15626640\charrsid3826080   Cosmetics manufacturers assured }{\i\insrsid15626640\charrsid3826080 The New York Times}{\insrsid15626640\charrsid3826080 , that the industry }{
\insrsid12537514\charrsid3826080 had already reformatted lipsticks and other cosmetics immediately after the }{\i\insrsid12537514\charrsid3826080 Public Citizen v. Young}{\insrsid12537514\charrsid3826080  decision, and so consumers wou
ld notice no difference in products following the FDA regulation.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12537514\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 4 Dyes Fading Under Scrutiny By U.S. Courts}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 381, at 52.}}}{\insrsid8150913\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid1783441\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid1783441 {\insrsid1783441\charrsid3826080 Then, s}{\insrsid8150913\charrsid3826080 
hortly after this colorant spectacle, the FDA announced the additional delisting of Red No. 3.  }{\insrsid7431201\charrsid3826080 A large-scale study in t}{\insrsid9725722\charrsid3826080 he early 1980\rquote s had shown that Red No. 3}{
\insrsid7431201\charrsid3826080  can }{\insrsid15088767\charrsid3826080 cause }{\insrsid7431201\charrsid3826080 thyroid }{\insrsid15088767\charrsid3826080 cancer in ra}{\insrsid7431201\charrsid3826080 ts when used in very high doses,}{
\insrsid15088767\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid9725722\charrsid3826080 but the FDA resisted delisting Red No.3 until 1990 based on how miniscule a risk this lipstick color additive posed to humans.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9725722\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Malcolm Gladwell, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 FDA:Red Dye\rquote s Reluctant Regulator: Partial Ban Points to Limitations of 30-Year-Old Delaney Clause}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Wash. Post}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Feb. 7, 1990, at A21 (commenting that the FDA had avoided responding to the animal study\rquote s showing of cancer by labeling the study\rquote s risk assessment \'93highly speculative\'94).}}}{
\insrsid9725722\charrsid3826080   Extrapolating the study\rquote s data}{\insrsid2967688\charrsid3826080  showed a maximum human risk of no larger than one in}{\insrsid7431201\charrsid3826080  one-hund}{\insrsid6038101\charrsid3826080 
red thousand from a lifetime }{\insrsid7431201\charrsid3826080 consumption}{\insrsid6038101\charrsid3826080  of Red No. 3}{\insrsid2967688\charrsid3826080 
, a risk significantly smaller, the FDA pointed out, than that of natural disasters or airplane accidents}{\insrsid7431201\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid7431201\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 F.D.A. Limits Red Dye No. 3}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 N.Y. Times}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Jan. 30, 1990, (Science Desk), at C10.}}}{
\insrsid2967688\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid6038101\charrsid3826080 Having had its commonsense arguments about such risk analysis categorically rejected in }{\i\insrsid6038101\charrsid3826080 Public Citizen}{\insrsid6038101\charrsid3826080  though}{
\insrsid1783441\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid15088767\charrsid3826080 the FDA }{\insrsid6038101\charrsid3826080 droopily }{\insrsid15088767\charrsid3826080 banned Red No. 3 accompanied by public statements that it disliked doing so.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid15088767\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . (quoting the Secretary of Health and Human Service\rquote s official statement that: \'93
Small as the risk is, we have no choice under the law but to end the provisional listing of this product.\'94)}}}{\insrsid926006\charrsid3826080   Secretary of Health and Human Services Dr. Louis W. Sullivan \'93all but apologized\'94
 for delisting Red No. 3, stating that: \'93Today\rquote s acti
on [removing Red No. 3 from cosmetics like lipstick] is yet another reminder of the need for Congress to consider updating the law to reflect advances in the methods of scientific assessment that were not available when the law was originally passed in 19
60.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid926006\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Gladwell, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 390, at A21.}}}{\insrsid11366359\charrsid3826080   The FDA consider}{
\insrsid3952997\charrsid3826080 ed the Delaney Clause miserably}{\insrsid11366359\charrsid3826080  outdated}{\insrsid3952997\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid11366359\charrsid3826080  because }{\insrsid3952997\charrsid3826080 the Clause\rquote 
s zero tolerance premise that had seemed sensible in a time of crude knowledge about and detection of carcinogens}{\insrsid16676126\charrsid3826080  now proved irrational in an era of }{\insrsid3952997\charrsid3826080 more }{
\insrsid11366359\charrsid3826080 sophisticated }{\insrsid3952997\charrsid3826080 understanding of cancer}{\insrsid11366359\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid11366359\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid1783441\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11366359\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid1783441\charrsid3826080 In contrast, }{\insrsid11366359\charrsid3826080 
California Representative Henry A. Waxman, who had placed continued political pressure on the FDA to delist Red No. 3, counter-argued that: \'93The Delaney Clause is founded on the principle that it is good public policy to 
err on the side of public health.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid11366359\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid11366359\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid1783441\charrsid3826080 
Political will favored Waxman, and the Delaney Clause remains on the legislative books today.}{\insrsid7608346\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid9268906 {\insrsid3107437\charrsid3826080 Since the FDA }{\insrsid9200958\charrsid3826080 favor}{\insrsid3107437\charrsid3826080 ed}{
\insrsid9200958\charrsid3826080 , or at least}{\insrsid2956154\charrsid3826080  guardedly}{\insrsid9200958\charrsid3826080  trust}{\insrsid3107437\charrsid3826080 ed}{\insrsid9200958\charrsid3826080 , the cosmetics industry though, }{
\insrsid3107437\charrsid3826080 most cosmetics regulation }{\insrsid15671122\charrsid3826080 continued to impose less severe safety standards}{\insrsid2956154\charrsid3826080  and to take the form of self-regulatory measures.  }{
\insrsid12204827\charrsid3826080 Commissioner Young testified before Congr}{\insrsid10838463\charrsid3826080 ess in 1988 that \'93cosmetics [are]}{\insrsid12204827\charrsid3826080  the lowest of the hazards\'94
 that the FDA regulates, which testimony the subsequent Commissioner David Kessler would echo in a 1991 Congressional hearing.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12204827\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Donegan,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 151.}}}{\insrsid12204827\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid881988\charrsid3826080 Dr. }{\insrsid2956154\charrsid3826080 Heinz }{
\insrsid881988\charrsid3826080 J. }{\insrsid10838463\charrsid3826080 Eiermann, the director of the FDA\rquote s division of cosmetics t}{\insrsid2956154\charrsid3826080 ec}{\insrsid10838463\charrsid3826080 hnology, perhaps best explained}{
\insrsid9594206\charrsid3826080  matters with the remarks that}{\insrsid15671122\charrsid3826080 : the FDA considered cosmetics much less of a concern than food or drugs, and so thought it prudent to conserv}{\insrsid9441135\charrsid3826080 
e FDA resources by allowing the }{\insrsid15671122\charrsid3826080 cosmetics industry to self-regulate}{\insrsid881988\charrsid3826080 , but}{\insrsid15671122\charrsid3826080  the FDA also worried about consumers thinking}{\insrsid881988\charrsid3826080 
 that}{\insrsid15671122\charrsid3826080  cosmetics }{\insrsid881988\charrsid3826080 received much more careful}{\insrsid15671122\charrsid3826080  regula}{\insrsid881988\charrsid3826080 tion than they actually did}{\insrsid15671122\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid15671122\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 What Price Beauty}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 366. at 12.}}}{
\insrsid881988\charrsid3826080   Reasonably enough}{\insrsid10838463\charrsid3826080  then, the FDA navigated this }{\insrsid9594206\charrsid3826080 intellectual}{\insrsid10838463\charrsid3826080  conflict}{\insrsid881988\charrsid3826080 
 by pressuring the cosmetics industry to adopt suc}{\insrsid10838463\charrsid3826080 h self-regulatory measures}{\insrsid9594206\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid4804453\charrsid3826080 as }{\insrsid9594206\charrsid3826080 extended labeling }{
\insrsid10838463\charrsid3826080 and}{\insrsid9594206\charrsid3826080  continued ingredient review}{\insrsid9268906\charrsid3826080 s.  Since, as previously footnot}{\insrsid9594206\charrsid3826080 ed, the Fair Packaging and Labeling 
Act only applies to products sold in retail establishments, the FDA lacked authority to force labeling of cosmetics sold exclusively for professional use.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9594206\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Donegan,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 157.}}}{\insrsid9594206\charrsid3826080 
  Nonetheless, in 1989, the CTFA instituted a voluntary labeling program for professional cosmetic products.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9594206\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .  CTFA representatives agreed to voluntary labeling of professional products during 1988 Congressional hearings, and then had the process up and running by the end of 1989.  Eiermann, 
}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 340, at 57.}}}{\insrsid1977200\charrsid3826080 
  This voluntary labeling program tends to privilege simplicity for manufacturers over informative value for users, for example, it has ingredients listed in alphabetical o}{\insrsid10124803\charrsid3826080 rder rather than in order of predominance}{
\insrsid1977200\charrsid3826080 , but the program }{\insrsid10124803\charrsid3826080 still }{\insrsid1977200\charrsid3826080 fairly resembles the FDA\rquote s mandatory labeling system.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1977200\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Eiermann, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 340, at 57.}}}{\insrsid16528845\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid12856300 {\insrsid4804453\charrsid3826080 
Voluntary ingredient reviews also continued, by this point a firmly established industry practice that stood \'93the centerpiece of current industry self-regulation.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid4804453\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 What Price Beauty}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 366, at 12.}}}{\insrsid4804453\charrsid3826080 
  Working through its mandate to provide independ}{\insrsid4536673\charrsid3826080 ent review of the safety of }{\insrsid4804453\charrsid3826080 one-thousand seven-hundred cosmetics ingredients}{\insrsid1454145\charrsid3826080 , }{
\insrsid4804453\charrsid3826080 the Cosmetics Ingredient Review}{\insrsid1454145\charrsid3826080  had investigated two-hundred and twenty-nine ingredients by its tenth anniversary of operation.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1454145\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid1454145\charrsid3826080   Determinations from these investigations met wi
th almost universal industry compliance, a dutifulness rendered less surprising when one considers that the Cosmetic Ingredient Review only deemed one ingredient wholly unsafe.}{\insrsid9441135\charrsid3826080   Said}{\insrsid1454145\charrsid3826080 
 unsafe ingredient,}{\insrsid9441135\charrsid3826080  an }{\insrsid1454145\charrsid3826080 antioxidant called hydroxyanisole}{\insrsid9441135\charrsid3826080  that tends to strip lips of their pigment, got promptly removed from lipstick in 1983.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid9441135\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Rubin, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at note 376, at 20.}}}{\insrsid8288809\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9268906\charrsid3826080 
Not everyone, however, felt satisfied by this industry ingredient review}{\insrsid1061898\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid9268906\charrsid3826080  or industry self-regulation more broadly.}{\insrsid8288809\charrsid3826080 
  For example, the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health went on record with the }{\i\insrsid8288809\charrsid3826080 Chicago Tribune}{\insrsid8288809\charrsid3826080  as }{\insrsid9268906\charrsid3826080 critical that}{
\insrsid1061898\charrsid3826080  nearly nine-hundred cosmetics ingredients had come to government attention as potentially toxic, and yet only fifty-six of these ingredients had undergone industry review.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1061898\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . (recording the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health\rquote 
s complaint that its analysis of nearly three-thousand chemicals used in cosmetics had revealed that, for eight-hundred and eighty-four of the chemicals, the government had received toxicity reports from at least one scientific researcher).}}}{
\insrsid12856300\charrsid3826080   Consumer groups also found it troublesome that, in 1988, less than half of cosmetics manufacturers had reported any consumer complaints to the FDA under the voluntary reporting guidelines.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid12856300\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid1454145\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid8787724 {\insrsid12856300\charrsid3826080 Concerns about sh}{\insrsid3751417\charrsid3826080 ortcomings of}{\insrsid12856300\charrsid3826080 
 industry self-regulation found outlet not with the FDA but in state legislatures, producing a burst of new state cosmetics regulations.}{\insrsid3751417\charrsid3826080 
  The multiplying state regulations concerning cosmetics mostly patterned themselves after the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3751417\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Donegan,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 151-58.}}}{\insrsid3751417\charrsid3826080   However, New York City and California went consider
ably beyond the federal model.  New York City}{\insrsid5454039\charrsid3826080  enacted the}{\insrsid7103984\charrsid3826080  first restrictions on}{\insrsid3751417\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7103984\charrsid3826080 cosmetics companies\rquote 
 use of store testers}{\insrsid3751417\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid3751417\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Deborah Blumenthal, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 New Lipstick? A Safer Sample}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 N.Y. Times}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Aug. 6, 1988, (Style Desk), at 33.}}}{\insrsid5454039\charrsid3826080   Governor Cuom}{\insrsid7103984\charrsid3826080 
o, concerned about the spread}{\insrsid5454039\charrsid3826080  of eye inflammation, conjunctivitis, and herpes, success}{\insrsid7103984\charrsid3826080 fully pushed for requirements that }{\insrsid5454039\charrsid3826080 cosmetics companies }{
\insrsid7103984\charrsid3826080 who wished to }{\insrsid1405041\charrsid3826080 let store customers sample their products }{\insrsid5454039\charrsid3826080 either must }{\insrsid1405041\charrsid3826080 use individual-sized tester}{
\insrsid7103984\charrsid3826080 s of eye and lip products}{\insrsid5454039\charrsid3826080  or must post signs warning that }{\insrsid7030687\charrsid3826080 communal}{\insrsid7103984\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5454039\charrsid3826080 teste}{
\insrsid7103984\charrsid3826080 rs should only be used on hands}{\insrsid5454039\charrsid3826080  or arms.}{\cs16\super\insrsid7103984\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .  This law passed in the late 1980s without any significant cosmetics industry opposition, but the law did not go into effect until January 1, 1990.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid7103984\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid8730837\charrsid3826080 California,}{\insrsid3556572\charrsid3826080  at the same
 time, enacted a more extensive and more contested regulation }{\insrsid8787724\charrsid3826080 concerning}{\insrsid3556572\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid8787724\charrsid3826080 cosmetics that contain carcinogenic or reproductively toxic }{
\insrsid3556572\charrsid3826080 c}{\insrsid12605166\charrsid3826080 hemic}{\insrsid8787724\charrsid3826080 als}{\insrsid3556572\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid3556572\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Donegan,}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 159.  }}}{\insrsid3477177\charrsid3826080   Said}{\insrsid10696764\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12605166\charrsid3826080 
California cosmetics }{\insrsid10696764\charrsid3826080 regulation came}{\insrsid3556572\charrsid3826080  embedded in}{\insrsid10696764\charrsid3826080  Proposition 65, }{\insrsid12605166\charrsid3826080 or, once passed, the Safe Drinking Water
 and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986.  As the name suggests, the Act primarily }{\insrsid12863784\charrsid3826080 focused on, }{\insrsid12605166\charrsid3826080 and recei}{\insrsid12863784\charrsid3826080 ved extensive publicity for, }{
\insrsid12605166\charrsid3826080 attempt}{\insrsid12863784\charrsid3826080 ing}{\insrsid1203488\charrsid3826080  to}{\insrsid10696764\charrsid3826080  eliminate carcinogens and}{\insrsid3556572\charrsid3826080  reproductive toxins from the California}{
\insrsid10696764\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3556572\charrsid3826080 drinking water supply}{\insrsid12605166\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid12605166\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid3477177\charrsid3826080   However, this ostensibly environmental law}{\insrsid8787724\charrsid3826080  also contained }{\insrsid10696764\charrsid3826080 
rigorous warning requirements for consumer products }{\insrsid8787724\charrsid3826080 that used chemicals \'93known by the state of California to cause cancer or reproductive toxicity}{\insrsid10696764\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid8787724\charrsid3826080 
\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid13261487\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid8787724\charrsid3826080   M}{\insrsid3477177\charrsid3826080 
ore specifically, the Act pronounces}{\insrsid8787724\charrsid3826080  that:}{\insrsid3556572\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \qj \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid14157249 {\insrsid8787724\charrsid3826080 No person in the course of doing business }{\insrsid3477177\charrsid3826080 [which encompasses cosmetics companies] }{
\insrsid8787724\charrsid3826080 shall knowingly and intentionally expose any individual to a chemical known to the state to cause cancer or reproductive toxicity without first giving clear and reasonable warning to such individual, e
xcept as provided in Section 25249.10.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3477177\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Cal. Health & Saf. Code \'a725249.6.}}}{\insrsid8787724\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid3477177 {\insrsid3477177\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid3477177 {\insrsid212545\charrsid3826080 
Section 25249.10 then provides ways that cosmetics and other manufacturers can avoid labeling their products as health hazards by proving that exposure to any chemical listed as carcinogenic \'93pose}{\insrsid11146191\charrsid3826080 s no}{
\insrsid212545\charrsid3826080  significant risk}{\insrsid11146191\charrsid3826080  assuming lifetime exposure at the level in question}{\insrsid212545\charrsid3826080 \'94 and that exposure to any chemical listed as reproductively toxic \'93}{
\insrsid11146191\charrsid3826080 will have}{\insrsid212545\charrsid3826080  no }{\insrsid11146191\charrsid3826080 observable }{\insrsid212545\charrsid3826080 effect at one-thousand times the level [used in the cosmetics item].\'94}{
\cs16\super\insrsid212545\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Cal. Health & Saf. Code \'a725249.10.  \'93Listed\'94 in this case means appearing on the Governor\rquote s list of chemicals known to cause cancer or reproductive toxicity, as established in \'a7
25249.8 of the Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Cal. Health & Saf. Code \'a725249.8.}}}{\insrsid11146191\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9592318\charrsid3826080 
For those cosmetics and other manufacturers that either cannot or will}{\insrsid1259114\charrsid3826080  not spend the money to prove all of their quantities of chemicals harmless}{\insrsid9592318\charrsid3826080  though, }{
\insrsid1259114\charrsid3826080 the manufacturers\rquote  }{\insrsid2514633\charrsid3826080 products must carry}{\insrsid4418127\charrsid3826080  label}{\insrsid2514633\charrsid3826080 s}{\cs16\super\insrsid4418127\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Theoretically, the \'93
clear and reasonable\'94 warning can take several forms, such as shelf signs, but realistically the only practical alternative usually proves a label warning.  Donegan,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 159.  }}}{\insrsid4418127\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid2514633\charrsid3826080 with }{\insrsid12336479\charrsid3826080 clearly}{\insrsid4418127\charrsid3826080  worded warning}{\insrsid2514633\charrsid3826080 s}
{\insrsid4418127\charrsid3826080  of cancer or reproductive toxicity risk.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4418127\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 The regulations implementing the Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act actually specified that the warning\rquote s precise language: \'93This product contains a chemical known to the state of California to cause cancer (reproductive toxicity).
\'94  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid4418127\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid1259114\charrsid3826080 While the general populace did not muc}{\insrsid2514633\charrsid3826080 
h notice the advent of this new cosmetics safety system, the cosmetics industry lost no time in disputing it.  }{\insrsid1591657\charrsid3826080 
Together with the food and drug trade associations, the cosmetics trade association petitioned the FDA to issue a regulation that would administratively preempt the California law for FDA-regulated products, but the FDA declined to do so.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid1591657\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid1591657\charrsid3826080   Simultaneously, these trade associations petitioned the California to pass a \'93safe harbor\'94
 provision that exempted FDA-regulated products from the Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1591657\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid1591657\charrsid3826080   This state-level petition succeeded}{\insrsid3820852\charrsid3826080  a bit}{\insrsid1591657\charrsid3826080 
 better than did the federal one, as California }{\insrsid2960377\charrsid3826080 briefly }{\insrsid1591657\charrsid3826080 enacted the requested }{\insrsid3820852\charrsid3826080 safe harbor regulation, but the safe harbor }{
\insrsid12863784\charrsid3826080 soon}{\insrsid2960377\charrsid3826080  got repealed in 1993 as part of a lawsuit settlement with environmental groups.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2960377\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .  Coincident to the cosmetics industry\rquote s attempts to entirely exempt itself from the Safe Drinking Water and
 Toxic Enforcement Act, a broader business consortium known as the Ingredient Communication Council tried the alternate tactic of just reducing the Act\rquote s impact.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 159 n.45
}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080   The Ingredient Communication Council tried to minimize the Act\rquote s effects by
 using a toll-free phone number warning system combined with newspaper and store advertising in lieu of placing warnings on products themselves.  Ingredient Communication Council, Inc. v.Lungren, 2 Cal. App. 4}{\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 th}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  1480, 1483 (1992).  This scheme failed as thoroughly as did the cosmetics industry\rquote 
s efforts though, since the California Attorney General quickly challenged and the California Appellate Court for the Third District quickly rejected the phone warning system as inadequate under the Act.  Ingredient Communication Council, 2 Cal. App. 4}{
\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 th}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  1480 at 1491-98.}}}{\insrsid5914186\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid12863784\charrsid3826080 Thus, those selling cosmetics in California}{\insrsid6180160\charrsid3826080 
 continue to contend with}{\insrsid12863784\charrsid3826080  significantly heightened, but not entirely clear, ingredient safety requirements.  }{\insrsid882660\charrsid3826080 More than five-hundred chemicals now appear on the state\rquote 
s danger list, but many of the listed chemicals have established safe exposure levels while }{\insrsid13976248\charrsid3826080 most unlisted chemicals have not received affirmative safety approval and so might suddenly require warning labels at any time.}
{\cs16\super\insrsid13976248\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Donegan,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 160.}}}{\insrsid13976248\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid6180160\charrsid3826080 Moreover, s}{\insrsid13976248\charrsid3826080 ince not only the state Attorney General but also private citizens have authority to enforce the Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act, cosmetic}{
\insrsid12476228\charrsid3826080 s manufacturers must }{\insrsid6180160\charrsid3826080 take the threat of liability for intentional or inadvertent }{\insrsid12476228\charrsid3826080 chemi}{\insrsid6180160\charrsid3826080 
cal content violations very seriously}{\insrsid13976248\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid13976248\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. (explaining that although the California Environmental Protection Agency\rquote s Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment holds responsibility for interpretin
g and implementing the Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act, the state Attorney General and private citizens, upon sixty days notice to the proper authority, can enforce the Act.}}}{\insrsid12476228\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid11234692\charrsid3826080 Particularly in California, but also in New York and at the f}{\insrsid15230402\charrsid3826080 
ederal level, the 1980s featured a continued development of general cosmetics safety regulations, although very little change concerning lipstick individually.}{\insrsid13976248\charrsid3826080 
\par }{\i\insrsid15230402\charrsid3826080 1990s}{\insrsid15230402\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid667985 {\insrsid15934852\charrsid3826080 \tab After a decade of high use but l}{\insrsid14685380\charrsid3826080 
ittle discussion, lipstick entered an era}{\insrsid612056\charrsid3826080  of even}{\insrsid15934852\charrsid3826080  higher use }{\insrsid14772160\charrsid3826080 and much discussion, both}{\insrsid2907790\charrsid3826080  social}{
\insrsid15934852\charrsid3826080  and legal.}{\insrsid14685380\charrsid3826080   With cosmetics an $18.5 billion dollar industry in the United States alone,}{\cs16\super\insrsid14685380\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Greff,}{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 147, at 243 (citing $18.5 billion as the cosmetics industry\rquote s value for 1996).}}}{\insrsid14685380\charrsid3826080 
 and lipstick sales outnumbering sales of other cosmetics products four to one,}{\cs16\super\insrsid14685380\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 2.}}}{\insrsid9843113\charrsid3826080  lipstick l}{\insrsid2907790\charrsid3826080 oomed socially large in the }{\insrsid11750646\charrsid3826080 1990s\rquote  }{
\insrsid2907790\charrsid3826080 economic and }{\insrsid11750646\charrsid3826080 cultural conscious}{\insrsid14685380\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid9843113\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid12939931\charrsid3826080 The economics of lipstick became a hot topic}{
\insrsid4292341\charrsid3826080 , within the wider business community as well as within th}{\insrsid12939931\charrsid3826080 e cosmetics industry}{\insrsid4292341\charrsid3826080 .  }{\insrsid9843113\charrsid3826080 
That more than three-quarters of all women wore lipstick, help}{\insrsid7734267\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid9843113\charrsid3826080  explain how Clinique could sell one lipstick every second of business hours.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9843113\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 1-2.}}}{\insrsid9843113\charrsid3826080   Such figures also help}{\insrsid14772160\charrsid3826080  explain Wall Street}{\insrsid5325908\charrsid3826080 \rquote s epiphany}{
\insrsid14573593\charrsid3826080  that lipstick}{\insrsid5325908\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7734267\charrsid3826080 represent}{\insrsid9848106\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid7734267\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid14573593\charrsid3826080 
a serious source of profit}{\insrsid1053686\charrsid3826080 , specifically}{\insrsid9128736\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid1053686\charrsid3826080  ten dollars }{\insrsid5130193\charrsid3826080 of revenue }{\insrsid1053686\charrsid3826080 to every twent}{
\insrsid15671712\charrsid3826080 y-five cents of production cost}{\insrsid1053686\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid5325908\charrsid3826080 and the consequent }{\insrsid14573593\charrsid3826080 flurry of economic activity}{\insrsid2907790\charrsid3826080 
 involving lipstick }{\insrsid14573593\charrsid3826080 companies}{\insrsid5325908\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid1053686\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 90.}}}{
\insrsid5325908\charrsid3826080   Revlon, Inc. }{\insrsid14573593\charrsid3826080 and Est}{\insrsid5130193\charrsid3826080 \'e9}{\insrsid14573593\charrsid3826080 e Lauder both had }{\insrsid5325908\charrsid3826080 
successful public offerings in the mid-1990s.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5325908\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Glenn Collins, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Cosmetics Romance the Bull; As Industry Lures Investors, Can Revlon Also Rise?}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 N.Y. Times}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Feb. 7, 1996, (Business/Financial Desk), at D1 (naming Est\'e9e Lauder\rquote s offering price as $26 dollars per share).}}}{\insrsid5325908\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid9848106\charrsid3826080 Other major lipstick producers}{\insrsid14573593\charrsid3826080  became highly sought acquisition targets}{\insrsid14186429\charrsid3826080  of Fortune 500}{\insrsid14573593\charrsid3826080  Companies, with}{
\insrsid14186429\charrsid3826080  Elizabeth Arden}{\insrsid11750646\charrsid3826080  selling}{\insrsid14573593\charrsid3826080  to Unilever and C}{\insrsid11750646\charrsid3826080 over Girl and Max Factor selling}{\insrsid14573593\charrsid3826080 
 to Procter & Gamble}{\insrsid7734267\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid7734267\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
.  Acquiring Cover Girl and Max Factor enviably positioned Procter & Gamble as the leading mass-marketer of cosmetics in the United States, although France\rquote s L\rquote Oreal S.A., with its acquisition of Helena Rubenstein, still stood the world
\rquote s largest cosmetics company.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid667985\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid12939931\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid5858343 {\insrsid3681304\charrsid3826080 Although t}{\insrsid9327420\charrsid3826080 hose}{\insrsid9071077\charrsid3826080 
 within the lipstick industry}{\insrsid9848106\charrsid3826080  had }{\insrsid9071077\charrsid3826080 already treated}{\insrsid9848106\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3681304\charrsid3826080 their businesses}{\insrsid9071077\charrsid3826080  as}{
\insrsid9327420\charrsid3826080  corporate }{\insrsid3681304\charrsid3826080 c}{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 oncerns for half a century, this }{\insrsid9848106\charrsid3826080 ne}{\insrsid9071077\charrsid3826080 wf}{\insrsid15671712\charrsid3826080 
ound corporate legitimation}{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid9071077\charrsid3826080 from those}{\insrsid9848106\charrsid3826080  outs}{\insrsid3681304\charrsid3826080 ide the }{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 lipstick }{
\insrsid3681304\charrsid3826080 industry led to}{\insrsid9327420\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3681304\charrsid3826080 still heightened levels of }{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 professionalism}{\insrsid9327420\charrsid3826080 
, particularly in the areas of }{\insrsid9848106\charrsid3826080 product design and marketing}{\insrsid9327420\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid3681304\charrsid3826080   All major lipstick companies became engrossed in per
fecting such product design details as the clicking sounds that their lipsticks made when closing.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3681304\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 116.}}}{\insrsid12146435\charrsid3826080   Each line}{\insrsid3681304\charrsid3826080  consciously engineered a different click }{\insrsid7690906\charrsid3826080 
intended to complement}{\insrsid12146435\charrsid3826080  its}{\insrsid3681304\charrsid3826080  brand image; Lanc\'f4me }{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 now }{\insrsid3681304\charrsid3826080 uses a \'93definitive, well-engineered click,\'94 Givenchy \'93
a heavy click, more metallic than plastic,\'94 and Clinique \'93a resounding snap,\'94 to offer a few }{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 self-described}{\insrsid8416943\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3681304\charrsid3826080 examples.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid3681304\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid13718502\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 Alternately, offering }{\insrsid5908611\charrsid3826080 
more liquid versions of }{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 lipstick in pots }{\insrsid5908611\charrsid3826080 or tubes became a \lquote novel\rquote }{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080  way to deliver the product.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 3, at 36.  Presumably most consumers did not recognize that liquid lipstick marked a return to the lipstick\rquote s earlier, less sophisticated form rather than an innovation.}}}{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid13905160\charrsid3826080 
Major lipstick companies also }{\insrsid9338585\charrsid3826080 developed a couple of}{\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid9338585\charrsid3826080 crafty}{\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080  marketing strategies}{\insrsid14186973\charrsid3826080 
.  The first of these strategies }{\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080 involved }{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 a more sophisticated form }{\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080 celebrity endorsement.  Cos}{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 metics companies had}{
\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080  long used advertisemen}{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 ts featuring celebrities to sell}{\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080  lipstick, but now companies}{\insrsid14186973\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 
leveraged celebrity power in a subtler manner}{\insrsid14772160\charrsid3826080 .  Specifically,}{\insrsid14186973\charrsid3826080  lipstick compa}{\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080 nies created }{\insrsid14186973\charrsid3826080 colors }{
\insrsid14772160\charrsid3826080 expressly}{\insrsid14186973\charrsid3826080  for celebrities in the hopes that the flattered celebrities wou}{\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080 ld wear the colors and become }{\insrsid8786558\charrsid3826080 profitably }{
\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080 associated}{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080  with the companie}{\insrsid14186973\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 \rquote }{\insrsid14186973\charrsid3826080  brand}{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 s}{
\insrsid14186973\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid14186973\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 26 (offering the example of two companies creating lipsticks specifically for Madonna).}}}{
\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 Maneuvering}{\insrsid8786558\charrsid3826080  popular figures }{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 in}{\insrsid8786558\charrsid3826080 to wear}{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 ing}{
\insrsid12939931\charrsid3826080  a }{\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080 lipstick}{\insrsid8786558\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12939931\charrsid3826080 brand }{\insrsid8786558\charrsid3826080 certainly cost less than did }{\insrsid3758615\charrsid3826080 
traditional celebrity advertising contracts}{\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080  and }{\insrsid8786558\charrsid3826080 probably also }{\insrsid9128736\charrsid3826080 had greater efficacy.  For,}{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080  by the 1990s, }{
\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080 consume}{\insrsid3758615\charrsid3826080 rs recognize}{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 d}{\insrsid3758615\charrsid3826080  that celebrities appear}{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 ed}{\insrsid3758615\charrsid3826080 
 in formal advertisements }{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 only }{\insrsid3758615\charrsid3826080 in order to make}{\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080  money rather than because they actually like}{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 d}{
\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080  the }{\insrsid3758615\charrsid3826080 given }{\insrsid6690459\charrsid3826080 product}{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 s, but consumers had not yet learned to }{\insrsid3758615\charrsid3826080 suspect }{
\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 celebrities\rquote  informal use of products}{\insrsid3758615\charrsid3826080  as premeditated.}{\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid13645266\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid13969428 {\insrsid5071538\charrsid3826080 Additionally,}{\insrsid9338585\charrsid3826080  there emerged a second }{
\insrsid2577904\charrsid3826080 promotional}{\insrsid9338585\charrsid3826080  strategy of }{\insrsid13660879\charrsid3826080 catering to newly recognized niche markets.  Lipstick manufactu}{\insrsid11495060\charrsid3826080 
rers had periodically tapped into}{\insrsid13660879\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid6112680\charrsid3826080 both}{\insrsid11495060\charrsid3826080  music and naturalist subcultures}{\insrsid9338585\charrsid3826080 , but never with the}{
\insrsid7803229\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12939931\charrsid3826080 concentration}{\insrsid9338585\charrsid3826080  seen}{\insrsid6112680\charrsid3826080  in the 1990s.}{\insrsid7803229\charrsid3826080 
  Grunge culture that accompanied alternative music initially posed a threat to cosmetics, as grunge centered on r}{\insrsid12939931\charrsid3826080 ejecting beautification}{\insrsid7803229\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid7803229\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , C}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 607.}}}{
\insrsid7803229\charrsid3826080   However, cosmetics speed}{\insrsid9338585\charrsid3826080 ily managed to capitalize on}{\insrsid7803229\charrsid3826080  grunge}{\insrsid9128736\charrsid3826080 , using a strategy best exemplified by }{
\insrsid7803229\charrsid3826080 Urban Decay}{\insrsid9128736\charrsid3826080 , which devoted its entire}{\insrsid667985\charrsid3826080  line }{\insrsid9128736\charrsid3826080 to abnormal colors with}{\insrsid7803229\charrsid3826080  defiantly unatt
ractive names like \'93Gunk\'94 and \'93Roach}{\insrsid13660879\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid7803229\charrsid3826080 \'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid13660879\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 26 }}}{\insrsid7803229\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9338585\charrsid3826080 
A fashion for \'93bare faces with off-kilter lipstick colors\'94 also sprang from the marketing machines of lipstick manufacturers as an ideal way to merge grunge sensibilities with lipstick sales.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9338585\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid9338585\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid1078787\charrsid3826080 Those taking }{\insrsid14773220\charrsid3826080 bizarre}{\insrsid1078787\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid14773220\charrsid3826080 beauty products to their}{\insrsid1078787\charrsid3826080  most radical offered}{\insrsid8459633\charrsid3826080  glow-in-the-}{\insrsid13718502\charrsid3826080 dark lipstick}{\insrsid8459633\charrsid3826080 
 and other makeup, but the FDA put an }{\insrsid14773220\charrsid3826080 end to this, because }{\insrsid8459633\charrsid3826080 the makeup\rquote }{\insrsid14773220\charrsid3826080 s glow came }{\insrsid13969428\charrsid3826080 fro}{
\insrsid15671712\charrsid3826080 m }{\insrsid8459633\charrsid3826080 an unapproved color additive, zinc sulfide}{\insrsid13718502\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid8459633\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Tamar, Nordenberg, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 FDA Takes Dim View of Glow-in-the-Dark Makeup}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 32 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 FDA Consumer }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
38, Jan./Feb. 1998.  The idea of fluorescing makeup had existed as far back as the 1970s, but the FDA\rquote s citing eight companies for the makeup\rquote s inclusion of an illegal color additive had mostly halted the makeup\rquote s production.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
.  During the 1990s though, Zauder Brothers, Inc. persisted in producing glow-in-the-dark cosmetics, responding to a 1994 warning letter from the FDA only by submitting a color additive petition for approval of zinc sulfide.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .  As forewarned, the FDA took legal action against Zauder Brothers, filing a complaint against the company\rquote 
s glow cosmetics in the District Court for the Eastern District of New York and seizing one-hundred and eighty-five cartons of the cosmetics.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
. Eventually the case settled with a consent decree under which the U.S. Marshals Service destroyed the glowing cosmetics.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid13718502\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid12939931\charrsid3826080 Similarly, lipstick }{\insrsid14943581\charrsid3826080 began to target the naturalist market}{\insrsid4476219\charrsid3826080  by incorporating trendy }{\insrsid3365674\charrsid3826080 \'93}{
\insrsid4476219\charrsid3826080 natural}{\insrsid3365674\charrsid3826080 \'94}{\insrsid4476219\charrsid3826080  ingredients and }{\insrsid667985\charrsid3826080 allegedly }{\insrsid4476219\charrsid3826080 gentle}{\insrsid667985\charrsid3826080 r}{
\insrsid4476219\charrsid3826080  formulas.  Many lipsticks began to boast vitamins and herbs.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4476219\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8 at 28.}}}{\insrsid4476219\charrsid3826080   Advertisements suggested, without actually stating, that hemp included in lipsticks would provide a high }{
\insrsid12939931\charrsid3826080 for }{\insrsid4476219\charrsid3826080 or me}{\insrsid667985\charrsid3826080 llow }{\insrsid12939931\charrsid3826080 out users}{\insrsid4476219\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid4476219\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  (lipstick\rquote s industrial form of hemp actually contains no drugs, and so clai
ming too directly that hemp lipstick has drug properties could get manufacturers in trouble for false advertising).}}}{\insrsid4476219\charrsid3826080   St. John\rquote s}{\insrsid13833604\charrsid3826080  Wo}{\insrsid4476219\charrsid3826080 
rt within lipstick received similarly suggestive marketing as capable of providing a magical or medicinal mood boost.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4476219\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  (adding that, centuries before, around the time that authorities punished lipstick use as witchery, St. John\rquote s Wort was esteemed as a 
potently magical herb capable of freeing the air from devils).}}}{\insrsid5442325\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5130193\charrsid3826080 Revlon began a \'93New Age Naturals\'94 line,}{\cs16\super\insrsid5130193\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Dori Stehlin, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Cosmetic Safety More Complex Than at First Blush}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 FDA Consumer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 (Dept. Health & Human Servs.), Nov. 1991, rev. May 1995, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 available at}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  http://vm.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-safe.html (noting that, as in the case of most \lquote natural\rquote 
 cosmetics, Revlon\rquote s New Age Naturals just added plant extracts to the same base formulas used in Revlon\rquote s other products).}}}{\insrsid5130193\charrsid3826080  while}{\b\insrsid5130193\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5442325\charrsid3826080 Est
\'e9e Lauder}{\insrsid13833604\charrsid3826080  started an entire botanical}{\insrsid5130193\charrsid3826080  spin-off brand}{\insrsid667985\charrsid3826080  called Origins}{\insrsid13833604\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid13833604\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Koehn, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 165, at 244.}}}{\insrsid667985\charrsid3826080   Even those m}{\insrsid3365674\charrsid3826080 
anufacturers who did not bill their lipsticks as infused with plants and herbs, at least added}{\insrsid667985\charrsid3826080  \'93hypoallergenic\'94 offerings.}{\cs16\super\insrsid667985\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  C}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 orson,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 5, at 608.}}}{\insrsid3365674\charrsid3826080   Such marketing of \'93natural\'94 and \'93hy}{
\insrsid9128736\charrsid3826080 poallergenic\'94 cosmetics }{\insrsid8543813\charrsid3826080 bother}{\insrsid9128736\charrsid3826080 ed}{\insrsid8543813\charrsid3826080  the FDA}{\insrsid9128736\charrsid3826080 , as the descriptors}{
\insrsid7998738\charrsid3826080  have absolutely no}{\insrsid3365674\charrsid3826080  concrete meaning.  \'93They [cosmetics manufacturers] could wave a tube of plant extract over the bottle and declare it natural.  Who\rquote s to say what they\rquote 
re actually using?\'94 vented John E. Bailey, FDA director of colors and cosmetics.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3365674\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Stehlin, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 438.}}}{
\insrsid12939931\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid2447644\charrsid3826080 Often the \lquote natural\rquote  ingredients are merely the standard chemical ingredients renamed,}{\cs16\super\insrsid2447644\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 91 (citing as examples that: \'93Tocopherol\'94 often appears as \'93vitamin E,\'94 \'93Butylated Hydroxytoluene\'94 appears as an \'93anti-oxidant,\'94 and \'93Caprylic
\'94 or \'93Capric  Triglyercide\'94 appears as \'93coconut oil\'94); Jane E. Brody, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Getting a Clearer Perspective on the Claims for Cosmetics}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, N.Y. Times, Sept. 12, 1984 at C1 (writing that \'93 \lquote Natural\rquote  cosmetics are not known to have any particular benefit to the skin\'85 the products contain most or all of the same ingredients found in [other] cosmetics\'94).}}}{
\insrsid2447644\charrsid3826080  and, when manufacturers do actually use unprocessed ingredients, it just leads to preservation problems anyway.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2447644\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  (explaining that, like natural foods low in preservatives, natural lipsticks have problems staying fresh).}}}{\insrsid2447644\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid12939931\charrsid3826080 \'93
}{\insrsid3365674\charrsid3826080 Hypoallergenic can mean almost anything to anybody}{\insrsid7615831\charrsid3826080 ,\'94 Bailey also commented}{\insrsid12939931\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid12939931\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Stehlin, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 438.}}}{\insrsid8543813\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9639298\charrsid3826080 
Indeed, hypoallergenic means nothing more than that the manufacturer feels a product less likely than other products to cause allergic reactions, with no clinical testing of this manufacturer hypothesis required.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid9639298\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}}}{\insrsid7615831\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5181837\charrsid3826080 As explained by a prescient }{\i\insrsid5181837\charrsid3826080 New York Times}{
\insrsid5181837\charrsid3826080  journalist when the term \lquote hypoallergenic\rquote  began surfacing:
\par }\pard \qj \li720\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin720\itap0\pararsid14039735 {\insrsid5181837\charrsid3826080 
Hypoallergenic cosmetics do not differ greatly from others, if at all.  Virtually all cosmetics have been stripped of the major allergy-provoking offenders.\'94  [Also, since individuals dif
fer in sensitivity], even a product marketed as hypoallergenic can sometimes provoke an allergic reaction.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5181837\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Getting a Clearer Perspective on the Claims for Cosmetics,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 442, at C1.}}}{\insrsid5181837\charrsid3826080 

\par }\pard \ql \li720\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin720\itap0\pararsid5181837 {\insrsid5181837\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid5181837 {\insrsid7615831\charrsid3826080 A}{\insrsid7095169\charrsid3826080  prior FDA attempt}{\insrsid9639298\charrsid3826080  to }{
\insrsid7095169\charrsid3826080 officially define }{\insrsid9639298\charrsid3826080 \'93hypoallergenic\'94 }{\insrsid7095169\charrsid3826080 and similar terms}{\cs16\super\insrsid7095169\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  In 
1974, the FDA had published proposed Regulation 700.100, stating that: \'93A cosmetic may be designated in its labeling by words that state or imply that the product or any ingredient thereof is \lquote hypoallergenic\rquote 
 if [and only if] it has been shown by scientific studies that the relative frequency of adverse reactions in human subjects from the test product is significantly less than the relative frequency of such reactions from each reference [product].\'94
 39 F.R. 7921.  The regulation specified that it also covered phrases conveying the same meaning as \'93hypoallergenic,\'94 such as \'93allergy tested\'94 and \'93sensitivity.\'94
 39 F.R. 7288.  Labeling that went beyond claims of hypoallergenicity to imply complete safety or complete absence of adverse reaction risk would be deemed illegal misbranding.  39 F.R. 7288}}}{\insrsid7095169\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid9639298\charrsid3826080 had }{\insrsid8412980\charrsid3826080 already }{\insrsid9639298\charrsid3826080 been struck down by the D.C. Appellate court in the 1970s though}{\insrsid7615831\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid7095169\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Cosmetics company Almay successfully challenged the FDA\rquote s proposed definition of \'93hypoallergenic,\'94
 and accompanying comparison testing requirement for products advertised as hypoallergenic, as arbitrary and capricious.  Almay Inc. v. Califano, 569 F.2d 674, 681-83 (1977).}}}{\insrsid7615831\charrsid3826080   So, }{\insrsid9639298\charrsid3826080 
the FDA did nothing beyond grouse about the}{\insrsid8543813\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7998738\charrsid3826080 cosmetics companies\rquote  disingenuous terminology}{\insrsid9639298\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid8543813\charrsid3826080 during the 1990s.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid7998738\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Along with the FDA complaining to the press about cosmetics marketing, as seen in the Bailey comments cited previously, the FDA also printed many articles warning people about cosmetics marketing in the }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 FDA Consumer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .  A representative example of such articles on cosmetics marketing reads: \'93The FDA has tried to establish official definitions for the use of certain terms such as 
\lquote natural\rquote  and \lquote hypoallergenic,\rquote  but its regulations were overturned in co
urt.  So, companies can use them [the terms] on cosmetic labels to mean anything or nothing at all. Most of the terms have considerable market value in promoting cosmetic products to consumers, but dermatologists say they [the terms] have very little medi
cal meaning.\'94  Carol Lewis, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Clearing Up Cosmetic Confusion}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 FDA Consumer}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , May-June 1998, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 available at}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  http://www.fda.gov/fdac/features/1998/398_cosm.html.}}}{\insrsid13645266\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid13192938\charrsid3826080 With the FDA having th}{
\insrsid1712642\charrsid3826080 rown up its hands on the issue, }{\insrsid16001801\charrsid3826080 the lipstick industry}{\insrsid13192938\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid16001801\charrsid3826080 continued to design and market products with more skill 
than scruples,}{\insrsid1712642\charrsid3826080  while the business world waxed enthusiastic about lipstick\rquote s profit potential}{\insrsid13192938\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid5181837\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid1257186 {\insrsid612056\charrsid3826080 Outside the business world }{\insrsid16001801\charrsid3826080 
too, lipstick became an increasingly discussed}{\insrsid9128736\charrsid3826080  item, as a}{\insrsid10298911\charrsid3826080 n awakening to lipstick\rquote s }{\insrsid5908611\charrsid3826080 omnipresence}{\insrsid10298911\charrsid3826080 
 led to analysis of lipstick\rquote s reflection of and impact on American culture.}{\insrsid1446446\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid4723184\charrsid3826080 San Francisco\rquote s MOMA chose lipstick as one of the twelve featured items in its }{
\i\insrsid4723184\charrsid3826080 Icons: Magnets of Meaning}{\insrsid4723184\charrsid3826080  exhibition, and with reason.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4723184\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 3, at 100.  Lipstick made several other appearances in 1990s art, such as Stacy Greene\rquote s photographs of her friends\rquote  lipstick tubes.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 104-05.}}}{
\insrsid4723184\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid1446446\charrsid3826080 People the}{\insrsid8652553\charrsid3826080 orized about how trends in lipstick reflected societal mood}{\insrsid9128736\charrsid3826080 s.  For example, there emerged a debate about}{
\insrsid8652553\charrsid3826080  whether}{\insrsid2781917\charrsid3826080  brown had}{\insrsid1446446\charrsid3826080  become the new favorite shade of}{\insrsid8652553\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid2781917\charrsid3826080 lipstick because}{
\insrsid8652553\charrsid3826080  o}{\insrsid2781917\charrsid3826080 f the new coffee culture}{\insrsid9128736\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid2781917\charrsid3826080  or as part of }{\insrsid1446446\charrsid3826080 a penitent reaction to the }{
\insrsid2781917\charrsid3826080 1980s\rquote  }{\insrsid1446446\charrsid3826080 flashy decaden}{\insrsid2781917\charrsid3826080 ce}{\insrsid1446446\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid1446446\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 26-27.}}}{\insrsid9128736\charrsid3826080   People even more seriously theorized}{
\insrsid7233572\charrsid3826080  about }{\insrsid2781917\charrsid3826080 the social essence}{\insrsid14183546\charrsid3826080  of lipstic}{\insrsid9128736\charrsid3826080 k itself.  }{\insrsid12459241\charrsid3826080 Some psychologists contended}{
\insrsid2781917\charrsid3826080  l}{\insrsid9128736\charrsid3826080 ipstick a reflection of society\rquote s}{\insrsid2781917\charrsid3826080  youth}{\insrsid9128736\charrsid3826080  worship}{\insrsid1257186\charrsid3826080 
, reasoning that adults redden their lips to recapture the naturally redder lips that infants possess}{\insrsid7233572\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid12459241\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 3, at 76 (referring to psychologist Rita Freedman).}}}{\insrsid7233572\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid12459241\charrsid3826080 Many}{\insrsid1257186\charrsid3826080  other}{\insrsid12459241\charrsid3826080  psychologists argued lipstick actually r
eflective of adult sexuality and the American preoccupation therewith.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12459241\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 75-76, 102 (refe
rring primarily to psychologist Debbie Then, but mentioning other academics as well).}}}{\insrsid10555195\charrsid3826080   T}{\insrsid12459241\charrsid3826080 his camp pointed out }{\insrsid11432609\charrsid3826080 that painting on lipstick causes}{
\insrsid1257186\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12459241\charrsid3826080 lips to mimic the aroused labia\rquote s redness and swelling, as well as th}{\insrsid10555195\charrsid3826080 at lipsti}{\insrsid11432609\charrsid3826080 ck tubes usually have}{
\insrsid10555195\charrsid3826080  a}{\insrsid12459241\charrsid3826080  phallic design.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12459241\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid1257186\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid7233572\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid7170284 {\insrsid12459241\charrsid3826080 Such debates blended into a related discussion of lipstick\rquote s impact on society.}{
\insrsid11551957\charrsid3826080   Not only did peopl}{\insrsid15739933\charrsid3826080 e view lipstick as reflecting}{\insrsid11551957\charrsid3826080  a societal preoccupation with sexuality, but also a}{\insrsid15739933\charrsid3826080 s fuel}{
\insrsid11551957\charrsid3826080 ing the preoccupation.  }{\insrsid15739933\charrsid3826080 In some parts of the world, this notion led to legal regulation of lipstick}{\insrsid11551957\charrsid3826080 ; }{\insrsid7300378\charrsid3826080 for example, }{
\insrsid11551957\charrsid3826080 the Malaysian government under Kuala Lumpur sharply}{\insrsid7300378\charrsid3826080  curtailed lipstick use}{\insrsid15739933\charrsid3826080  on the rationale that }{\insrsid11551957\charrsid3826080 lips}{
\insrsid15739933\charrsid3826080 tick inspires}{\insrsid11551957\charrsid3826080  illicit sex.}{\cs16\super\insrsid11551957\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 17.}}}{
\insrsid15739933\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid7170284\charrsid3826080 Along similar lines, women seeking asylum from Iran have testified to having their lips rubbed with shards of glass for wearing sexualizing lipstick.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid7170284\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, Yadegar-Sargis v. INS 297 F.3d 596, 600 (2002).  Theresa, Sidebothom, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Immigration Policies and the War on Terrorism}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 32 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Denv. J. Int\rquote 
l L. & Pol\rquote y}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  539, 570 (2004).}}}{\insrsid7170284\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid15739933\charrsid3826080 In the United States, }{\insrsid9717647\charrsid3826080 however, }{\insrsid15739933\charrsid3826080 
only social controversy resulted, primarily amongst feminists.  The }{\insrsid2186842\charrsid3826080 1970s }{\insrsid15739933\charrsid3826080 feminist divide between}{\insrsid11551957\charrsid3826080  seeing lipstick as }{
\insrsid15739933\charrsid3826080 a symbol of }{\insrsid11551957\charrsid3826080 emanc}{\insrsid15739933\charrsid3826080 ipation and seeing lipstick as a symbol of oppression, in th}{\insrsid7300378\charrsid3826080 e form of trivializing sexualization}{
\insrsid15739933\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid11551957\charrsid3826080  continued.}{\insrsid15739933\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid7300378\charrsid3826080 Lipstick served as an emblem of female strength}{\insrsid2186842\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid7300378\charrsid3826080 for }{\insrsid2186842\charrsid3826080 the California Women Legislators Caucus, which start}{\insrsid7300378\charrsid3826080 ed conferring Read My Lipstick shame awards upon those}{\insrsid2186842\charrsid3826080 
 whose political utterances they considered demeaning to women.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2186842\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Jerry Gillam, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \'93Read My Lipstick\'94
 Award Will Take Smack at Sexist Remarks}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 L.A. Times}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, April 27, 1990, at A30 (announcing Larry Malmberg, president of the California Peace Officers Research Association, as the \'93award\rquote s\'94 first recipient for saying that: \'93I don\rquote t think the voters are ready for a woman governor\'94).}}
}{\insrsid7957816\charrsid3826080   However, others followed Egyptian feminist Nawal El Saadawi in critiquing lipstick as \'93the post-modern veil.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid7957816\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Sonali Kolhatkar, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Women and War: A Critical Discourse,}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 20 Berkeley J. Gender L. & Just. 352}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 354 (1994) (quoting El Saadawi\rquote s oft stated indictment of lipstick\rquote 
s role in Western society, and criticizing Beauty Without Borders for considering beauty courses a good way to liberate women).}}}{\insrsid10181644\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid2508619\charrsid3826080 Those in the}{\insrsid735825\charrsid3826080  lipstick}
{\insrsid2508619\charrsid3826080  industry}{\insrsid735825\charrsid3826080 , preferred to sidestep this minefield entirely, and refocus on lipstick\rquote s social impact in terms of }{\insrsid16658239\charrsid3826080 the product\rquote s }{
\insrsid735825\charrsid3826080 social}{\insrsid16658239\charrsid3826080 ly responsible characteristics}{\insrsid735825\charrsid3826080 .  }{\insrsid2508619\charrsid3826080 Manufacturers}{\insrsid12392408\charrsid3826080  positioned}{
\insrsid4723184\charrsid3826080  lipstick}{\insrsid12392408\charrsid3826080  as the poster product for charity, with}{\insrsid4723184\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12089712\charrsid3826080 sales of }{\insrsid4723184\charrsid3826080 Clinique lipstick }{
\insrsid12392408\charrsid3826080 famously raising}{\insrsid12089712\charrsid3826080  money for}{\insrsid4723184\charrsid3826080  breast cance}{\insrsid12392408\charrsid3826080 r and MAC lipstick sales raising}{\insrsid4723184\charrsid3826080 
 $10 million for the AIDS fund.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4723184\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 3, at 71.}}}{\insrsid16658239\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid2508619\charrsid3826080 Manufacturers}{\insrsid1062704\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12392408\charrsid3826080 also }{
\insrsid2508619\charrsid3826080 trumpeted}{\insrsid11031085\charrsid3826080  lipstick and other cosmetics as attuned to anim}{\insrsid2508619\charrsid3826080 al rights}{\insrsid11031085\charrsid3826080 .  When a}{\insrsid15671712\charrsid3826080 
nimal rights groups developed}{\insrsid7301708\charrsid3826080  a bunny leaping i}{\insrsid11031085\charrsid3826080 nto stars}{\insrsid15671712\charrsid3826080  logo}{\insrsid11031085\charrsid3826080  to mark companies that have pledged to}{
\insrsid7301708\charrsid3826080  not conduct or commission animal testing on any i}{\insrsid13113427\charrsid3826080 ngre}{\insrsid11031085\charrsid3826080 dients or finished products, }{\insrsid5469631\charrsid3826080 several }{
\insrsid11031085\charrsid3826080 cos}{\insrsid5469631\charrsid3826080 metics companies made the pledge and paid the licensing fee}{\insrsid11031085\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid11031085\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Barbara Thomas, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 The Sign of Alternative Testing}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 L.A. Times}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Jan. 22, 1999, at E3 (covering the new  \'93
Corporate Standard of Compassion for Animals\'94 logo).  The article also further explains that the logo represents an effort to set a common standard for animal testing abstention and that the fee for using the logo in turn funds the campai
gn to promote awareness of the log and spot checks to ensure compliance by companies using the logo.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}}}{\insrsid5469631\charrsid3826080   The CTFA\rquote s vice president fo}{\insrsid4809711\charrsid3826080 r}{
\insrsid5469631\charrsid3826080  legislative relations, Michael Petrina, }{\insrsid4809711\charrsid3826080 then spoke out about how little cosmetics companies engage in animal testing}{\cs16\super\insrsid4809711\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  (quoting Petrina\rquote s explanation that, despite a mistaken perception to the contrary, cosmetics companies do very little animal testing because th
ey do not need to; most ingredients have long since received any animal testing necessary).}}}{\insrsid4809711\charrsid3826080  and how much money they devote to developing alternative testing measures.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4809711\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  (giving the figure as more than $110 million invested over the course of the 1990s).}}}{\insrsid11876523\charrsid3826080   S}{\insrsid15671712\charrsid3826080 
uch assurances about the }{\insrsid11876523\charrsid3826080 commitment}{\insrsid15671712\charrsid3826080  to animal rights}{\insrsid11876523\charrsid3826080  have a certain deviousness, because the FDA\rquote 
s acceptance of only that safety data obtained through animal testing means that any cosmetics companies not currently using animal testing just uses ingredients already animal tested in the past instead.}{\cs16\super\insrsid11876523\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Stehlin, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 438 (spelling out the animal testing situation as r
egards the FDA, namely that the FDA considers animal testing the only testing method proven effective, and so requires animal testing on those additives that need pre-market approval and frowns upon the failure to safety test other ingredients on animals)
.}}}{\insrsid8594539\charrsid3826080   However, }{\insrsid2508619\charrsid3826080 assurances of not testing on animals did }{\insrsid8594539\charrsid3826080 help to }{\insrsid2508619\charrsid3826080 cor}{\insrsid5130193\charrsid3826080 
rect a public misperception }{\insrsid8594539\charrsid3826080 about the extent of cosmetics animal testing }{\insrsid5130193\charrsid3826080 as well as }{\insrsid8594539\charrsid3826080 help to }{\insrsid5130193\charrsid3826080 increase lipstick\rquote 
s market cach\'e9 as a socially responsible product.}{\insrsid11876523\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid15148507 {\insrsid3020845\charrsid3826080 Amidst society\rquote s latest round of }{\insrsid14956231\charrsid3826080 awakeni}{
\insrsid4003450\charrsid3826080 ng to lipstick\rquote s importance}{\insrsid8594539\charrsid3826080  and debating its positive or negative implications}{\insrsid4003450\charrsid3826080 , legal actors}{\insrsid14956231\charrsid3826080  at both the f}{
\insrsid4003450\charrsid3826080 ederal and state levels }{\insrsid1781706\charrsid3826080 also }{\insrsid4003450\charrsid3826080 became even more}{\insrsid14956231\charrsid3826080  alert to lipstick }{\insrsid1781706\charrsid3826080 and other cosmetics}{
\insrsid14956231\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080   F}{\insrsid1781706\charrsid3826080 ederal}{\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080 ly}{\insrsid1781706\charrsid3826080 , the FDA continued to }{\insrsid16659920\charrsid3826080 
struggle with supe}{\insrsid11500280\charrsid3826080 rvising industry self-reporting}{\insrsid16659920\charrsid3826080 , as well}{\insrsid3020845\charrsid3826080  as to more intently grapple with the }{\insrsid4288334\charrsid3826080 
cosmetics and drugs overlap.}{\insrsid3020845\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080 As in years previous, during }{\insrsid2448116\charrsid3826080 the 1990s the FDA wrestled with}{\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080 
 conflicting desires to let the cosmetics industry self-regulate based on cosmetics}{\insrsid11500280\charrsid3826080 \rquote }{\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080  low risk}{\insrsid8140307\charrsid3826080  and to end industry }{
\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080 self-regulation based on }{\insrsid2448116\charrsid3826080 the in}{\insrsid8140307\charrsid3826080 dustry\rquote s doing a slipshod job of}{\insrsid2448116\charrsid3826080  reporting}{\insrsid6969586\charrsid3826080 
 problems}{\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080 .  Bailey, again acting as the FDA\rquote s voice on cosmetics issues, characterized serious injury from }{\insrsid6969586\charrsid3826080 any }{\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080 makeup}{
\insrsid6969586\charrsid3826080 , let alone the historically safer lipstick products,}{\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080  as \'93a pretty rare event.  We}{\insrsid2448116\charrsid3826080  don\rquote t see it happen that often,}{
\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080 \'94}{\insrsid11500280\charrsid3826080  he told }{\i\insrsid2448116\charrsid3826080 FDA Consumer}{\insrsid2448116\charrsid3826080  magazine.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080   Wit}{\insrsid6969586\charrsid3826080 h most complaints about cosmetics}{\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080 
 involving allergic reactions to fragrance and preservatives, the FDA strongly inclined to reserve agency resources for more dangerous products.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}}}{\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080   Yet, the FDA also worried about how seldom the cosmetic}{\insrsid6969586\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080  industry reported problems to the FDA}{
\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 , approximately one FDA report for every fifty reports to industry according to Bailey\rquote s estimates}{\insrsid5059517\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}}}{\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080   The FDA very much wanted to see indust}{\insrsid14236880\charrsid3826080 ry reporting well above the existing}{\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080  thirty-five percent level, and }{
\insrsid14236880\charrsid3826080 to receive }{\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 more complete reports from those companies that did make them}{\insrsid14236880\charrsid3826080  at all}{\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Judith Foulke, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Cosmetic Ingredients: Understanding the Puffery}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 FDA Consumer}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , May 1992, rev. Feb. 1995, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 available at}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  http://www.fda.gov/fdac/reprints/puffery.html (quoting Mark Waleski, chief of the FDA\rquote 
s cosmetics registration program, as commenting critically that: \'93Based on the number of [cosmetics] companies we think are eligible to participate [in voluntary reporting], only about 35 percent do\'85
 [and] sometimes the information a firm submits is incomplete\'85 And if a firm does not update its submissions with additions or deletions, the information in the registration files could accumulate as inaccurate information.\'94)}}}{
\insrsid1403751\charrsid3826080   Aggravating the situation, the FDA had stressed these same }{\insrsid8140307\charrsid3826080 criticisms}{\insrsid1403751\charrsid3826080  for years,}{\insrsid9306237\charrsid3826080  to scant}{
\insrsid1403751\charrsid3826080  industry response.  In 1984, Eiermann, in his role as director of cosmetic technology, had complained to }{\i\insrsid1403751\charrsid3826080 The New York Times}{\insrsid1403751\charrsid3826080  that: \'93
The information we get from manufacturers is hit or miss, mostly miss.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid1403751\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid1403751 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Jane E. Brody, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Personal Health}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 N.Y. Times}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Sept. 19, 1984, at C10.}}}{\insrsid1403751\charrsid3826080 
  Of the estimated sixty thousand cosmetics-related injuries each year, only three-hundred and forty-three reports of injury reached the FDA per year during the early 1980s.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1403751\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid1403751 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  (summarizing FDA testimony from Congressional hearings).}}}{\insrsid1403751\charrsid3826080   By the 1990s, those outsi}{\insrsid15148507\charrsid3826080 de the FDA had }{
\insrsid11500280\charrsid3826080 also }{\insrsid15148507\charrsid3826080 begu}{\insrsid8591167\charrsid3826080 n commenting critically}{\insrsid11500280\charrsid3826080  on the cosmetics self-regulation system}{\insrsid1403751\charrsid3826080 .  }{
\insrsid8591167\charrsid3826080 Jacqueline A. Greff, }{\insrsid9306237\charrsid3826080 wrote for }{\insrsid8591167\charrsid3826080 an increasingly loud chorus of voices when she}{\insrsid9306237\charrsid3826080  observed }{\insrsid8591167\charrsid3826080 
in the }{\i\insrsid8591167\charrsid3826080 Food & Drug Law Journal}{\insrsid8591167\charrsid3826080  that cosmetics \'93nominally are regulated by [the] Food and Drug Administration, [but] the agency\rquote s regulation is extremely lenient,\'94
 and only suffices because of cosmetics\rquote  low-risk status.}{\cs16\super\insrsid8591167\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Greff,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 147, at 243.}}}{
\insrsid9306237\charrsid3826080   Thus}{\insrsid1403751\charrsid3826080 , by the late 1990s, the FDA decided it time to }{\insrsid15148507\charrsid3826080 reconsider structuring cosmetics regulation}{\insrsid6969586\charrsid3826080  as a largely }{
\insrsid15148507\charrsid3826080 voluntary, industry-administered}{\insrsid11500280\charrsid3826080  system.  The upshot of this }{\insrsid8140307\charrsid3826080 re}{\insrsid11500280\charrsid3826080 consideration was}{\insrsid8140307\charrsid3826080 :}{
\insrsid15148507\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11500280\charrsid3826080 industry self-regulation and}{\insrsid15148507\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11500280\charrsid3826080 voluntary reporting}{\insrsid6969586\charrsid3826080  had}{
\insrsid8140307\charrsid3826080  not caused }{\insrsid15148507\charrsid3826080 severe enough }{\insrsid8140307\charrsid3826080 problems }{\insrsid15148507\charrsid3826080 to warrant replacing self-reporting with mandatory reporting, but the system}{
\insrsid12787201\charrsid3826080  in general, and adverse reporting in particular,}{\insrsid15148507\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5326977\charrsid3826080 also }{\insrsid12787201\charrsid3826080 did not satisfy the FDA}{\insrsid15148507\charrsid3826080 
.  Therefore}{\insrsid12787201\charrsid3826080 , the FDA would}{\insrsid1403751\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid16670673\charrsid3826080 entirely }{\insrsid1403751\charrsid3826080 discontinue voluntary filing for adverse reactions}{
\insrsid6969586\charrsid3826080 , or }{\insrsid2845689\charrsid3826080 for }{\insrsid11500280\charrsid3826080 \'93cosmetic product e}{\insrsid16670673\charrsid3826080 xperiences\'94 in regulatory lingo}{\insrsid15159866\charrsid3826080 .  The FDA\rquote s
 revocation proposal stated in pertinent part that:
\par }\pard \qj \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid14039735 {\insrsid15159866\charrsid3826080 
While the VCPE [Voluntary Cosmetic Product Experiences regulation] has provided useful information regarding relative adverse reaction baseline rates, it has suffered from some serious limitations. Indust
ry participation in this portion of the program has historically been very limited and selective, the reports lack sufficient details to be useful, and annual reports are sent in long after the occurrence of an adverse reaction. This limited participation
 
has persisted even though the program has been modified several times over the years to make it easier for companies to participate. In this regard, the VCPE provides a false impression about the ability of the voluntary program to ensure the safety of co
s
metics. Thus, the VCPE program no longer provides any new information about cosmetic adverse reactions, and it no longer serves the important purpose of helping to find harmful cosmetics and to remove them from the marketplace. With current budgetary cons
t
raints on FDA, it is difficult to justify the continuation of a program that does not contribute directly to increasing the safety of cosmetics or protecting the public health. Adding data to the information that FDA has obtained over 20 years about basel
ine adverse reaction rates will be unlikely to have any value. Thus, FDA is proposing to revoke part 730 [the adverse reactions reporting section]}{\insrsid1403751\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid1403751\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid1403751 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 61 FR 29708, 29710 (June 12, 1996).}}}{\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li1440\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin1440\itap0\pararsid15159866 {\insrsid15159866\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid15159866 {\insrsid16670673\charrsid3826080 Following the above-stated}{\insrsid15159866\charrsid3826080 
 proposed revocation, final revocation of adverse reaction reporting took place the following year.}{\cs16\super\insrsid15159866\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  62 FR 43071, 43073 (Aug. 12, 1997) (announcing the final revocation of 21 C.F.R. \'a7
 730 and outlining the three formal comments submitted during this revocation proposal\rquote 
s public comment period.  One comment supported the decision to completely abolish voluntary reporting.  A second comment likewise supported abolition of voluntary reporting, but saw a need to compensate for its absence by: (1) enhancing the MedWatch prog
r
am to include cosmetics adverse reactions, (2) implementing an FDA policy of referring consumers with adverse reactions to the responsible cosmetics companies, and (3) retaining some process by which the industry collectively could analyze product experie
n
ces and report serious reactions to the FDA.  The third comment recommended that, rather than revoking the voluntary adverse reaction reporting system, the FDA revise the system to make reporting mandatory and add a toll-free hotline for consumers to noti
fy the FDA of adverse reactions; this comment too mentioned including cosmetics adverse reactions in the MedWatch program).}}}{\insrsid2845689\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid15272230\charrsid3826080 In announcing this final revocation}{
\insrsid2845689\charrsid3826080 , the FDA did mention that it would }{\insrsid15366633\charrsid3826080 continue to make adverse reaction reporting forms available and would }{\insrsid11816546\charrsid3826080 also }{\insrsid2845689\charrsid3826080 
consider }{\insrsid15366633\charrsid3826080 an offsetting addition of}{\insrsid15272230\charrsid3826080  cosmetics adverse re}{\insrsid11816546\charrsid3826080 actions to its MedWatch}{\insrsid15366633\charrsid3826080  program}{
\insrsid15272230\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid15272230\charrsid3826080  \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid15272230 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 43073-74 (rejecting a comment
\rquote s assertion that the voluntary adverse reaction reporting system failed, as opposed to having 
successfully accomplished its purpose of establishing baseline adverse reaction rates and so having no further use, but accepting the need to consider including cosmetics in the MEDWATCH program).}}}{\insrsid15272230\charrsid3826080   Currently}{
\insrsid12014439\charrsid3826080 , healthcare professionals and members of the public may}{\insrsid11816546\charrsid3826080  voluntarily report cosmetics}{\insrsid14420974\charrsid3826080  adverse reactions on MedWatch F}{\insrsid11816546\charrsid3826080 
orm }{\insrsid14420974\charrsid3826080 FDA 3500}{\insrsid11816546\charrsid3826080 , but }{\insrsid12014439\charrsid3826080 n}{\insrsid11870992\charrsid3826080 o one, either inside or outside of the cosmetics industry, }{\insrsid12014439\charrsid3826080 
must report cosmetics adverse reactions}{\insrsid15272230\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid12014439\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See, e.g.,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 63 F.R. 65000, 65030-31 Nov. 24, 1998 (announcing the FDA\rquote 
s proposed plan for complying with the Food and Drug Administration Modernization Act of 1997 by, among other things, evaluating new methods of gathering information about cosmetics adverse reactions given the 1996 elimination of the previous v
oluntary cosmetics adverse reaction reporting program), followed by 65 F.R. 69314, 69315 Nov. 16, 2000 (announcing that the FDA has submitted to the Office of Management and Budget for review and clearance the proposed collection of information on adverse
 
reactions to various products, including adverse reactions to cosmetics under the voluntary portion of the MedWatch program), and most recently 70 F.R. 48157, 48158 Aug. 16, 2005 (mentioning, in the preface to an announcement about modifying MedWatch form
s\rquote  formatting, that healthcare professionals and the public may use Form FDA 3500 [the form for voluntary reporting] to report adverse events involving cosmetics).}}}{\insrsid12546634\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid15272230 {\insrsid5326977\charrsid3826080 Given this }{\insrsid15485031\charrsid3826080 late-}{\insrsid6619276\charrsid3826080 1990s }{
\insrsid5326977\charrsid3826080 decision}{\insrsid1993582\charrsid3826080  to }{\insrsid11816546\charrsid3826080 more or less end }{\insrsid15485031\charrsid3826080 adverse reaction reporting but otherwise }{\insrsid1993582\charrsid3826080 
leave industry self-regulation and self-reporting}{\insrsid15485031\charrsid3826080  intact}{\insrsid5326977\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid1993582\charrsid3826080 the cosmetics regulation system will }{\insrsid15485031\charrsid3826080 
presumable stay status quo}{\insrsid6619276\charrsid3826080  for the foreseeable future}{\insrsid5326977\charrsid3826080 .  }{\insrsid15485031\charrsid3826080 Whether self-regulation, with industry ingredients testing and voluntary reporting at its core, 
}{\insrsid14758313\charrsid3826080 suits the }{\insrsid15485031\charrsid3826080 lack of problems with cosmetics, or }{\insrsid11816546\charrsid3826080 whether self-regulation }{\insrsid14758313\charrsid3826080 more insidiously camouflages actually present
}{\insrsid15485031\charrsid3826080  problems}{\insrsid14758313\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid15485031\charrsid3826080  remains open to debate.  Reasonable people have argued that, e}{\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 ven did manufacturers more punctiliously r}
{\insrsid15485031\charrsid3826080 eport problems to the FDA}{\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 , the FDA would still have little information on the cosmetics problems occurring in the United States, because con}{\insrsid15485031\charrsid3826080 
sumers almost never relay }{\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 complaints to cosmetics manufacturers in the first place.}{\cs16\super\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid6897833 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Betty J. Diener & Stephen A. Greyser, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Consumer Views of Redress Needs}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 42 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Journal of Marketing }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
21, 25-26 (1978) (reporting the results a 1974 telephone survey of nearly five-hundred randomly selected females in nineteen American cities showed).}}}{\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 
  At least one consumer redress study has found that ninety-eight percent of consumers who experienced memorable problems with lipstick and other categories of cosmetics did not inform manufacturers about the problems, and forty-five perce
nt of consumers who experienced memorable problems with lipstick and other categories of cosmetics did not mention the problems to anyone.}{\cs16\super\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid6897833 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080   Such empirics might argue for continuing to muddle along with industry self-reporting}{\insrsid14758313\charrsid3826080  and self-regulation}{
\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 , because }{\insrsid14758313\charrsid3826080 most problems with cosmetics have so little gravity that even those }{\insrsid11816546\charrsid3826080 a}{\insrsid14758313\charrsid3826080 
ffected think them not worth complaining about.  Additionally, such }{\insrsid1776551\charrsid3826080 empirics suggest that the FDA\rquote s forcing}{\insrsid878109\charrsid3826080  manufacturer}{\insrsid1776551\charrsid3826080 s to report}{
\insrsid878109\charrsid3826080  would do little good given how little }{\insrsid1776551\charrsid3826080 manufacturers know to begin with; in this case, in order to produce significant safety benefits}{\insrsid878109\charrsid3826080 ,}{
\insrsid14758313\charrsid3826080  the F}{\insrsid878109\charrsid3826080 DA would need to expend an unreasonable}{\insrsid14758313\charrsid3826080  amount of }{\insrsid878109\charrsid3826080 resources to }{\insrsid808385\charrsid3826080 itself }{
\insrsid878109\charrsid3826080 extensively t}{\insrsid808385\charrsid3826080 est products for problems}{\insrsid878109\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080   Alternately, }{\insrsid14758313\charrsid3826080 however, }{
\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 such empirics might point towards the need}{\insrsid14758313\charrsid3826080  for a new regulation}{\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 
 system, because extraordinarily low levels of consumer reporting might indicate that the cosmetics industry deliberately makes it difficult for consumers to report problems in order to avoid knowing about the problems.}{\insrsid1776551\charrsid3826080 
  If many}{\insrsid14758313\charrsid3826080  co}{\insrsid1776551\charrsid3826080 smetics industry players have implemented labyrinthine}{\insrsid14758313\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid1776551\charrsid3826080 
customer service structures so as to avoid getting feedback about safety problems}{\insrsid14758313\charrsid3826080 , this w}{\insrsid1776551\charrsid3826080 ould raise concern about the industry\rquote s integrity in other self-regulation measures}{
\insrsid14758313\charrsid3826080  as well.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1776551\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  That the cosmetics industry engages or has ever engaged in a deliberate conspiracy to thwart s
afety reporting seems unlikely.  However, that companies individually decide to funnel resources anywhere except fielding consumer complaints seems less farfetched, whether merely for profit reasons or actually for knowledge avoidance reasons.  Anecdotal 
e
vidence of the difficulty involved in communicating with major cosmetics companies arose even in the course of writing this paper.  Lipstick information requests sent to the consumer relations and marketing departments of the top six cosmetics manufacture
r
s resulted in: one refusal to provide information, four disregards of the request, and one helpful response from Shiseido.  The information requests took the form of a three-question survey, which explained the academic reason behind the inquiry, asked ve
r
y open-ended questions, encouraged companies to skip any question that they still felt uncomfortable with, and provided multiple methods for response.  The companies were ranked, and selected for inquiry, according to most recent available international m
arket share figures.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Sameer Kumar, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Exploratory Analysis of Global Cosmetic Industry: Major Players, Technology, and Market Trends}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 25 Technovation 1263}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 1264 (2005) (listing the market shares for the ten highest grossing cosmetics companies as of year
 2000, namely, in descending order: L\rquote Or\'e9al SA, Est\'e9
e Lauder Company, Procter & Gamble Company, Revlon, Inc., Avon Products, Inc., Shiseido Company Ltd., Coty, Inc., Kanebo Ltd., Kose Company Ltd., and Chanel SA.  These companies collectively account for 62.1% of the global cosmetics market).}}}{
\insrsid6897833\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid1638755 {\insrsid13718502\charrsid3826080 FDA concerns, howe
ver, overridingly focused on, and today continue to focus on, the cosmetics and drugs overlap.  }{\insrsid9319026\charrsid3826080 T}{\insrsid13969428\charrsid3826080 he Food, Drug, and Cosm}{\insrsid9319026\charrsid3826080 etic Act classifies products }{
\insrsid9634534\charrsid3826080 by }{\insrsid9319026\charrsid3826080 their inten}{\insrsid11665550\charrsid3826080 ded uses, as determined by explici}{\insrsid9319026\charrsid3826080 t and implicit manufacturer representations, rather than by products
\rquote  inherent properties.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9319026\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  e.g.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Hutt & Merrill,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 315, at 824.  This overview of the definition of \'93cosmetic\'94
 also further elaborates that, \'93attempting to formulate a hard and fast rule differentiating between cosmetic claims and drug claims is virtually impossible,\'94
 with some products clearly cosmetics solely intended to promote attractiveness, and other products clearly drugs intended to effect physiological changes, but a third category of products murkily entailing both attra
ctiveness promotion and a slight physical effect.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
  While the FDA has attempted to deal with the classificatory muddle by publishing advisory opinions as to whether it deems certain types of products cosmetics or drugs, the opinions tend to merely demo
nstrate how unpredictable the cosmetics-drug categorization is.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}}}{\insrsid9319026\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid11665550\charrsid3826080 
To offer one example: a jar of cold cream might qualify under the Act as a cosmetic, but it might also qualify as a drug, or it might qualify as both,}{\cs16\super\insrsid4458683\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Qualifying as both a drug and a cosmetic puts a product in the worst possible regulatory position, because not only do drugs face many regulations that cosmetics do not, but cosmetics a
lso face a few regulations that drugs do not.  For example, drugs need list only active ingredients on their labels, while cosmetics need to list essentially all ingredients on their labels.  Greff,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 147, at 250}}}{\insrsid11665550\charrsid3826080  all depending on the manufacturer\rquote s claims.}{\cs16\super\insrsid8804864\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar
\tx5954\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid8804864 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Congress explicitly anticipated 
that having classification depend upon intent rather than upon actual effect would allow the FDA to regulate fraudulent remedies for health problems.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 . at 253\tab }}}{
\insrsid11665550\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9319026\charrsid3826080 As a result}{\insrsid11665550\charrsid3826080  of this situation}{\insrsid9319026\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid11665550\charrsid3826080 the cosmetics industry has}{
\insrsid13969428\charrsid3826080  lived under the recognized threat of h}{\insrsid11665550\charrsid3826080 aving its}{\insrsid6978908\charrsid3826080  prod}{\insrsid11665550\charrsid3826080 ucts thrust into the highly-}{\insrsid6978908\charrsid3826080 
regulated drug category since the }{\insrsid11665550\charrsid3826080 Food, Drug, and Cosmetic }{\insrsid6978908\charrsid3826080 Act}{\insrsid13969428\charrsid3826080 \rquote s initial passage.}{\cs16\super\insrsid13969428\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Commentary published just three years after the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act passed assessed that: \'93probably the most difficult problem raised [for the cosmetics industry] is whether certain products shall be classified as cosmetics or drugs.\'94
  Tousley,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 148, at 266.}}}{\insrsid11665550\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid5269223\charrsid3826080 
If deemed a drug, a cosmetics product suddenly comes subje
ct to mandatory product registration with the FDA, more frequent FDA inspections, and current good manufacturing practices that entail: use of consultants, stricter quality control, heightened personnel requirements, and more stringent limitations on the 
ingredients and containers used.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5269223\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Patrick R. Jones, Note, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Protecting the Consumer From Getting Burned
: the FDA, the Administrative Process, and the Tentative Final Monograph on Over-the-Counter Sunscreens}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,\'94 20 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Am. J. L. & Med.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 317, 329 (1994) (hereinafter \'93}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Protecting the Consumer From Getting Burned}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \'94).}}}{\insrsid218684\charrsid3826080   O}{\insrsid11665550\charrsid3826080 ne 1990s industry insider}{
\insrsid218684\charrsid3826080  thus understandably}{\insrsid11665550\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid218684\charrsid3826080 wrote that}{\insrsid11665550\charrsid3826080 :}{\insrsid15101665\charrsid3826080  \'93t}{\insrsid6978908\charrsid3826080 
he tension between drug and cosmetic status has been the primary feature of the}{\insrsid11665550\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid6978908\charrsid3826080 evolution of cosmetic law in the last fifty years.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid6978908\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Greff,}{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 147, at 243.}}}{\insrsid140846\charrsid3826080   However, in}{\insrsid9121035\charrsid3826080  the 1990s}{\insrsid140846\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid9634534\charrsid3826080 
 the threat of drug classification for \'93cosmeceuticals\'94 became ominously more intense, particularly for lipstick}{\insrsid140846\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid9634534\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  The term \'93cosmeceuticals\'94
 refers to those hybrid cosmetic and pharmaceutical products that make up \'93the gray area between cosmetics and drugs.\'94  Cosmeceuticals contain active ingredients seen in pharmaceuticals, but at lower concentrations, and claim physiological effects, 
but of a temporary and often not scientifically-substantiated nature.  Brian A. Liang & Kurt M. Hartman, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Only Skin Deep: FDA Regulation of SkinCare Cosmetics Claims}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 8 }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Cornell J. L. & Pub. Pol\rquote y}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  249, 261-62 (1999).  The FDA does not accept the term \'93cosmeceuticals,\'94
 however, because the term does not appear in the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act.  Some would argue that this should change, and that the FDA and Congress should follow other countries in recognizing cosmeceuticals, and regulating them as a unique 
category distinct from either cosmetics or drugs. Heymann, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 190, at 372.}}}{\insrsid6171208\charrsid3826080   Partially the FDA}{\insrsid4596316\charrsid3826080 \rquote s}{
\insrsid6171208\charrsid3826080  fr}{\insrsid4596316\charrsid3826080 ustration with other methods of regulating cosmetics, partially the fad for therapeutic advertising claims,}{\insrsid6171208\charrsid3826080  and partially the advent of sunsc}{
\insrsid4596316\charrsid3826080 reen }{\insrsid218684\charrsid3826080 cosmetics products }{\insrsid4596316\charrsid3826080 account}{\insrsid6171208\charrsid3826080  for this}{\insrsid4596316\charrsid3826080  intensification of }{
\insrsid5269223\charrsid3826080 drug classification efforts.}{\insrsid10761588\charrsid3826080   S}{\insrsid7802173\charrsid3826080 traightforward methods of reigning in cosmetics}{\insrsid10514499\charrsid3826080 \rquote  unsubstantiated claims}{
\insrsid7802173\charrsid3826080 , such as bringing misbranding charges, had }{\insrsid10514499\charrsid3826080 repeatedly}{\insrsid7802173\charrsid3826080  failed the FDA}{\insrsid10514499\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid10761588\charrsid3826080 and, so, }{
\insrsid10514499\charrsid3826080 classifying problematic}{\insrsid7802173\charrsid3826080  cosmetics a}{\insrsid10514499\charrsid3826080 s drugs became }{\insrsid7802173\charrsid3826080 appealing.}{\cs16\super\insrsid7802173\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 249-52 (explaining the appeal of classifying cosmetics as drugs, but also criticizing this approach both as inappropriate given the legislative mandate to police al
l, not just some, cosmetics\rquote  labeling and misleading claims, and as inadequate given that courts\rquote  periodically reject drug classification efforts)}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid12877652\charrsid3826080 
  Classifying cosmetics as drugs enables the FDA to improve both cosmetics}{\insrsid1638755\charrsid3826080 \rquote }{\insrsid12877652\charrsid3826080  safety and}{\insrsid1638755\charrsid3826080  labeling, by }{\insrsid12877652\charrsid3826080 
preventing cosmetics that do have drug-like properties from entering the market without adequate safety testing as well as preventing cosmetics that do not have drug-like potency from masquerading as having such curative powers.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid12877652\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Greff,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 147, at 252 (characterizing the FDA as having five incentives to classify cosmetics as d
rugs: ensuring safety by precluding the use of certain ingredients, ensuring proper labeling to prevent injury, ensuring disclosure of products\rquote  material effects to prevent confusion, preventing manufacturers\rquote 
 from dodging drug regulations, and preventing use of ineffective ingredients in products that make drug claims or that consumers view as drugs).}}}{\insrsid12877652\charrsid3826080   Towards this end, the FDA }{\insrsid2117022\charrsid3826080 
in the 1990s began more aggressively pursuing, or at least threatening to pursue, drug c}{\insrsid8804864\charrsid3826080 lassification for cosmetics.  The FDA}{\insrsid2117022\charrsid3826080 
 took the position that mere presence of certain ingredients in cosmetics products could render the products drugs}{\insrsid8804864\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid2117022\charrsid3826080  regardless of any claims made, an expansio}{
\insrsid12793997\charrsid3826080 n of the traditional rule}{\insrsid8804864\charrsid3826080  that only \'93intended use\'94}{\insrsid2117022\charrsid3826080  could determine products\rquote  classifications.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2117022\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See, e.g.,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Donegan,}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 188, at 158 (describing the distinction between cosmetics and drugs as \'93still an active area of inquiry,\'94 in part due to the FDA\rquote s new position that ingredients alone can render cosmetics drugs) & Greff,}{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 147, at 253-255 (explaining that the FDA has decided certain ingredients have only drug functions and lack cosmetics functions).}}}{\insrsid1638755\charrsid3826080 
  Previously mentioned cosmetics company enthusiasm for incorporating herbal ingredients and hinting but not stating that cosmetics had therapeutic effects no doubt spurred such FDA rigor in seeking }{\insrsid3674601\charrsid3826080 more }{
\insrsid1638755\charrsid3826080 drug classification}{\insrsid3674601\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid1638755\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3674601\charrsid3826080 and }{\insrsid1638755\charrsid3826080 under a broader range of circumstances.}{
\insrsid12877652\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid15009955 {\insrsid1638755\charrsid3826080 \tab }{\insrsid3674601\charrsid3826080 The advent of sunscreen in cosmetics pla}{
\insrsid2756611\charrsid3826080 yed no small part in the }{\insrsid1328793\charrsid3826080 magnifying}{\insrsid2756611\charrsid3826080  the cosmeceuticals focus}{\insrsid3674601\charrsid3826080  either though.}{\insrsid1328793\charrsid3826080 
  Incorporating sunscreen into cosmetics became increasingly popular at the end of the twentieth century as the link between sun exposure and skin cancer became increasingly clear.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5908611\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Some awareness of the sun\rquote 
s potential to cause at least beauty damage, as well as of sunscreens\rquote  potential to protect against such damage, appears to have existed as early as a few hundred years previous.  One of seventeenth century play-write Ben Jonson\rquote 
s works features a doctor scolding a patient for not wearing \'93the white oil\'94 that the doctor prescribed as sun protection.  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Williams}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra
}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 65, at 17.  Likely the doctor character here referred to some mixture involving petrolatum, which is a semi-solid substance more commonly known as \'93mineral oil\'94 or \'93white oil,\'94
 and which the FDA today lists as an active ingredient for over-the-counter skin protectant products.  Lin L. Healy, et. al., }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
Slippery Competition: Vegetable Oil, Hydrocarbons and Esters Pose Slippery Competition for Petrolatum and Mineral Oil in Personal Case Products}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 173 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Global Cosm. Indus.}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  38 (Sept. 1, 2005).}}}{\insrsid1328793\charrsid3826080 
  Lipstick with sun protection became exceptionally popular, and profitable; manufacturers could charge twelve to thirteen percent more for lipsticks that claimed ultraviolet ray (UV) protection.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1328793\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Protecting the Consumer From Getting Burned}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 482, at 319-20.}}}{\insrsid12144196\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid1328793\charrsid3826080 Almost immediately}{\insrsid3940686\charrsid3826080  the FDA grew}{\insrsid1328793\charrsid3826080  concern}{\insrsid4549454\charrsid3826080 ed by the possibility of cosmetics manufacturers }{
\insrsid1328793\charrsid3826080 dangerously claim}{\insrsid4549454\charrsid3826080 ing}{\insrsid1328793\charrsid3826080  sun protection without }{\insrsid3737319\charrsid3826080 really }{\insrsid1328793\charrsid3826080 adequ}{
\insrsid3940686\charrsid3826080 ately providing that protection.}{\cs16\super\insrsid15212399\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 318.}}}{
\insrsid3940686\charrsid3826080  So,}{\insrsid1328793\charrsid3826080  the FDA }{\insrsid12144196\charrsid3826080 added }{\insrsid3940686\charrsid3826080 cosmetics containing sunscreen to the }{\insrsid14377410\charrsid3826080 beach-use}{
\insrsid3940686\charrsid3826080  sunscreen regulation that the FDA had begun drafting years earlier.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3940686\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Robert P. Brady, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 A Lawyer\rquote s View \endash 
 Sunscreen TFM: Legal Implications Present and Future; Tentative Final Monograph}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 108 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Cosm. & Toiletries}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 43 (1993) (recounting how the FDA published an Expert Panel Report on over-the-counter sunscreen products in August 1978, and then spent fifteen years composing a subsequent Tentative Final Mono
graph on sunscreens, with sunscreens including the addition of cosmetics containing sunscreens).}}}{\insrsid14377410\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid4549454\charrsid3826080 This 1993 Tentative Final }{\insrsid12144196\charrsid3826080 Monograph featured}{
\insrsid4549454\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12144196\charrsid3826080 six-hundred pages on over-the-counter sunscreen products,}{\cs16\super\insrsid12144196\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Protecting the Consumer From Getting Burned}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 482, at 321.}}}{\insrsid12144196\charrsid3826080 
 with one-hundred and eight pages devoted exclusively to sunscreen in cosmetics.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12144196\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Brady, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 491, at 43.}}}{
\insrsid14377410\charrsid3826080   According to the Tentative Final Monograph, cosmetics }{\insrsid3758610\charrsid3826080 could only contain sunscreen without triggering drug status}{\cs16\super\insrsid5770669\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 This general rule about cosmetics with sunscreen getti
ng drug status included an exception for nail polish and hair products, because, in those products, sunscreen serves the non-drug function of preventing color from fading.  However, if such nail and hair products indicate sunscreen\rquote 
s presence, then they must also specify that the sunscreen serves a purely cosmetic function.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}}}{\insrsid3758610\charrsid3826080 
 if the cosmetics did not use any of twelve phrases that suggested sunscreen, sun prote}{\insrsid4338012\charrsid3826080 ction, freckle prevention, }{\insrsid3758610\charrsid3826080 wrinkle prevention}{\insrsid4338012\charrsid3826080 
, or certain anti-aging}{\insrsid3758610\charrsid3826080  properties.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3758610\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 (listing the twelve phrases that triggered drug status, a few of which phrases have since been banned entirely, as: \'93sunscreen,\'94 \'93shields from the sun,\'94 \'93blocks out the rays of the sun,\'94 \'93protects from the sun,\'94 \'93
prevents or protects against freckling,\'94 \'93prevents or protects against wrinkling,\'94 \'93prevents or protects against redness or uneven coloration of the skin,\'94 \'93protects against UVA/UVB,\'94 \'93shields the skin against specific
 factors that accelerate the signs of skin aging,\'94 \'93helps to acquire an even tan,\'94 \'93permits tanning,\'94 \'93protects against premature aging, skin aging, skin lesions, an skin cancer\'94).}}}{\insrsid3758610\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid1452633\charrsid3826080 Additionally, the Tentative Final Monograph set out the acceptable and unacceptable language that either sunscreen or non-sunscreen cosmetics products may use regarding aging due to sun and skin cancer,}{
\cs16\super\insrsid1452633\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}}}{\insrsid1452633\charrsid3826080  as well as banned the term \'93waterproof\'94 for sunscreen cosmetics.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1452633\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Protecting the Consumer From Getting Burned}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 482, at 324
 (explaining further that sunscreen cosmetics may say \'93water resistant\'94 if they require reapplication after forty minutes of sweating or water-related activity, or \'93very water resistant\'94
 if they last eighty minutes before requiring such reapplication).}}}{\insrsid15212399\charrsid3826080 
  As with all Tentative Final Monographs, this publication did not create any legally binding regulations but did give manufacturers a good idea of what would likely be required of them and their cosmetics soon enough.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid15212399\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 321.}}}{\insrsid15212399\charrsid3826080   Manufacturers and an}{\insrsid3878433\charrsid3826080 y other interested parties }{
\insrsid15212399\charrsid3826080 received a chance to comment on the tentative regulation before the binding Final Monograph }{\insrsid3878433\charrsid3826080 issued.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3878433\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Brady, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 491, at 43.}}}{\insrsid3878433\charrsid3826080   Not}{\insrsid4206535\charrsid3826080  astonishingly, such a momentous}{\insrsid3878433\charrsid3826080 
 proposal generated several hundred comments, the majority of which concerned how the tentative regulation did not properly address UVA protection and how the FDA should forego its attempt to cap SPF levels at 30.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid3878433\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Protecting the Consumer From Getting Burned}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 482, at 326.}}}{
\insrsid3878433\charrsid3826080   These comments }{\insrsid4529568\charrsid3826080 apparently had some effect}{\insrsid2380369\charrsid3826080 .  }{\insrsid4206535\charrsid3826080 For, although the provision on sunscreen cosmetics\rquote  }{
\insrsid3171445\charrsid3826080 drug status took effect as of year }{\insrsid4206535\charrsid3826080 2000,}{\cs16\super\insrsid4206535\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  21. C.F.R. \'a7 700.35 (2006).}}}{
\insrsid4206535\charrsid3826080  the comprehensive Final Monograph }{\insrsid2380369\charrsid3826080 for over-the-counter sunscreen products got extended }{\insrsid9327336\charrsid3826080 multiple times before finally taking effect in 2003}{
\insrsid4206535\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid9327336\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  68 Fed. Reg. 33362 (June 4, 2003).}}}{\insrsid9327336\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid4206535\charrsid3826080  A}{\insrsid9327336\charrsid3826080 
t least one of the extensions explicitly centered on }{\insrsid2380369\charrsid3826080 formal}{\insrsid3171445\charrsid3826080 ly reopening }{\insrsid2380369\charrsid3826080 the administrative record for comments on UVA/UVB testing requirements.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid2380369\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  65 Fed. Reg. 36319 (June 8, 2000).}}}{\insrsid9327336\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid3171445\charrsid3826080 Similarly, i}{\insrsid4529568\charrsid3826080 t did not become misbranding to \'93
state[] a specific SPF value above 30 or }{\insrsid3171445\charrsid3826080 [}{\insrsid4529568\charrsid3826080 use] similar language indicating a person can stay in the sun more than 30 times longer than without sunscreen\'94 until 2003, and even }{
\insrsid4206535\charrsid3826080 today this}{\insrsid4529568\charrsid3826080  rule }{\insrsid4206535\charrsid3826080 remains}{\insrsid4529568\charrsid3826080  \'93stayed until further notice.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid4529568\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  21 C.F.R. 
\'a7 352.50 (2006).}}}{\insrsid15009955\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid2107026 {\insrsid15009955\charrsid3826080 While at the federal level the FDA concentrated on when to classify cosme}{
\insrsid8083195\charrsid3826080 tics as drugs and how to confront}{\insrsid15009955\charrsid3826080  cosmetics industry self-regulation, legislators at the state level also }{\insrsid1732158\charrsid3826080 
grew active in developing a new breed of environmentally-oriented cosmetics laws.  Cosmetics laws centered on environmental protection arose in several states during the 1990s, most notably California, New York, and New Jersey.  }{
\insrsid1656357\charrsid3826080 Once again, California}{\insrsid15009955\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid14513923\charrsid3826080 led the way in state augmentation of federal cosmetics law}{\insrsid1732158\charrsid3826080 
 with an extensive environmental protection law targeting exclusively those products covered under the Food Drug and Cosmetic Act}{\insrsid2834595\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid1656357\charrsid3826080   California\rquote s inventive}{
\insrsid6828727\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid1656357\charrsid3826080 1994}{\insrsid6828727\charrsid3826080  packaging requirements}{\insrsid5522456\charrsid3826080 , known formally as the Rigid Plastic Packaging Container Program, demanded}{
\insrsid6828727\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5522456\charrsid3826080 that cosmetics companies }{\insrsid3476434\charrsid3826080 wanting to sell their products in California }{\insrsid5522456\charrsid3826080 reduce their products\rquote  }{
\insrsid3476434\charrsid3826080 environmental impact in one of four}{\insrsid5522456\charrsid3826080  ways.}{\cs16\super\insrsid13591571\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  14 C.C.R. \'a7
 17943 (2006) (laying out the purpose of and definitions involved in the Rigid Plastic Packaging Container Program, which applies to food and drugs as well as cosmetics).  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, Donegan, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 161.}}}{\insrsid3476434\charrsid3826080   In order to sell cosmetics packaged in p
lastic containers, which category encompasses almost all lipsticks, companies newly needed to either: make their containers from at least twenty-five percent recycled material, ensure that their containers get recycled at a forty-five percent recycling ra
te, make their containers reusable or r}{\insrsid13715232\charrsid3826080 efillable, or engineer}{\insrsid3476434\charrsid3826080  source reduced}{\insrsid13715232\charrsid3826080  containers}{\insrsid3476434\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid3476434\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  14 C.C.R. \'a7 17944 (2006).  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 14 C.C.R. \'a7 17943 (2006) (defining a \'93source-reduced container\'94
 as a container that weighs ten percent less than either (1) the given manufacturer\rquote s previously used containers for the given product, with several options for demarcating \lquote previously used,\rquote 
 or (2) other manufacturers currently used containers for similar products).}}}{\insrsid4333239\charrsid3826080   Most cosmetics companies chose to use the first recycled materials}{\insrsid8932393\charrsid3826080  option, and }{
\insrsid11352083\charrsid3826080 convinced legi}{\insrsid13715232\charrsid3826080 slators to postpone}{\insrsid11352083\charrsid3826080  the statute\rquote s effect date so that cosmetics companies
 could figure out how to use recycled packaging without violating}{\insrsid8932393\charrsid3826080  FDA adulteration regulations.}{\cs16\super\insrsid8932393\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Donegan, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 188, at 161.}}}{\insrsid4071122\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid1732158\charrsid3826080 
Meanwhile, New York, in 1991, amended its air pollution prevention laws to better include the production of cosmetics and drug products.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1590928\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  6 N.Y.C.R.R. \'a7
 233.2 (2006) & 6 N.Y.C.R.R. \'a7 235-2.1 (2006).}}}{\insrsid1590928\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid1732158\charrsid3826080  New Jersey focused 
on waste management like California, and included cosmetics packaging under the auspices of its general Toxic Packaging Reduction Act of 1992.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1732158\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  1991 N.J. A.L.S. 520 & N.J. Stat. 
\'a7 13:1E-99.44 (2006).}}}{\insrsid16533447\charrsid3826080   Having seen numerous states enact}{\insrsid10029086\charrsid3826080  environmental cosmetics regulations}{\insrsid16533447\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid10029086\charrsid3826080 during t}{
\insrsid7825560\charrsid3826080 he 1990s suggests that this new strain}{\insrsid10029086\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7825560\charrsid3826080 of cosmetics law }{\insrsid10029086\charrsid3826080 may prove an important regulatory}{
\insrsid16533447\charrsid3826080  trend in the decades to come.}{\insrsid2107026\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid2107026 {\i\insrsid2107026\charrsid3826080 2000s and Beyond}{\insrsid2107026\charrsid3826080 
\par \tab }{\insrsid2503673\charrsid3826080 These clear historic patterns}{\insrsid2496033\charrsid3826080  then offer }{\insrsid2107026\charrsid3826080 a model for understanding what social and }{\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080 
legal trends have begun to and will continue to crop up }{\insrsid2107026\charrsid3826080 in the twenty-first century.}{\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080   On the social side,}{\insrsid2503673\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid547624\charrsid3826080 lipstick }{
\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080 currently reigns ubiquitous, but lipstick\rquote s}{\insrsid547624\charrsid3826080  historical pattern of veering from }{\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080 the height}{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 s}{
\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080  of popular to the depth}{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080  of social unacceptability}{\insrsid547624\charrsid3826080 , make }{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 it }{
\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080 much more likely than most people probably imagine for lipstick to go severely out of fashion within the next century. }{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080  The Victorian Era\rquote s}{\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080 
 social prohibition on }{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 lipstick did not represent anomalous prudishness to which society will never return,}{\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080  but rather }{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 represented just the latest dip}{
\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080  in lipstick\rquote s perpetual cycle o}{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 f rising and falling permissibility.  A coalescence}{\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 of }{
\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080 feminist subsets\rquote  unrest about lipstick\rquote }{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 s trivialization of women, }{\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080 conservationists\rquote 
 call for not wasting resources on unnecessary consumer goods}{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080  like lipstick}{\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080 , and religious right groups\rquote  continued dislike for }{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 lipstick\rquote 
s materialist, sexual implications,}{\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080  could}{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080  easily}{\insrsid4065911\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid547624\charrsid3826080 squelch}{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 
 the seemingly untouchable lipstick market. }{\insrsid16319884\charrsid3826080  Such }{\insrsid10636157\charrsid3826080 upheaval relates to }{\insrsid2063196\charrsid3826080 the long-term future though, in}{\insrsid10636157\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid2063196\charrsid3826080 the short-term}{\insrsid7479539\charrsid3826080 , lipstick will likely experience}{\insrsid2063196\charrsid3826080  continued market success and increased global social acceptance.}{\insrsid16319884\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid13511355 {\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 For the next few decades}{\insrsid547624\charrsid3826080 , lipstick will likely }{
\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 remain }{\insrsid7479539\charrsid3826080 a }{\insrsid10637298\charrsid3826080 huge}{\insrsid7479539\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid10637298\charrsid3826080 socioeconomic player in the United States}{
\insrsid2063196\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid16319884\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid2063196\charrsid3826080 as sug}{\insrsid7479539\charrsid3826080 gested by the most recent market}{\insrsid2063196\charrsid3826080  statistics}{\insrsid7479539\charrsid3826080 
 as well as}{\insrsid15621191\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7479539\charrsid3826080 by }{\insrsid15621191\charrsid3826080 recent technological developments}{\insrsid5858343\charrsid3826080 .  }{\insrsid15621191\charrsid3826080 Statistical i}{
\insrsid2063196\charrsid3826080 ndicators of }{\insrsid7087798\charrsid3826080 solidity include}{\insrsid2702401\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7087798\charrsid3826080 that }{\insrsid2702401\charrsid3826080 the United States cosmetics industry}{
\insrsid7087798\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid1927690\charrsid3826080 presented}{\insrsid2702401\charrsid3826080  a $32.7 billion }{\insrsid7087798\charrsid3826080 global }{\insrsid2702401\charrsid3826080 market}{\insrsid7087798\charrsid3826080  last year}{
\insrsid2702401\charrsid3826080 , with lipstick}{\insrsid7087798\charrsid3826080  earning $9.4 billion, behind facial}{\insrsid2167473\charrsid3826080  makeup but ahead of eye makeup and nail products.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2167473\charrsid3826080 \chftn 
{\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Nancy Jeffries, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Color Blends Fashion and Function}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 173 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Global Cosm. Indus.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  42 (Nov. 1, 2005).  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 But cf.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Kumar, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 477, at 1264 (describing the cosmetics industry in 2001 as only a $22.5 billion market and lipstick as only a $6.6 billion market, which might reflect that Jeffries overstated the industry\rquote 
s profitability figures, but might also just reflect a sharp rise in the cosmetics industry\rquote s profitability between 2001 and 2005 as the economy recovered from the dot.com crash).}}}{\insrsid7087798\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid8864903\charrsid3826080 The c}{\insrsid7087798\charrsid3826080 olor cosmetics}{\insrsid8864903\charrsid3826080  sub-segment}{\insrsid7087798\charrsid3826080 , already the third largest cosm}{\insrsid8864903\charrsid3826080 
etics and toiletries sub-segment}{\insrsid7087798\charrsid3826080 , has also begun growing particularly quickly of late, registering a nearly thirteen percent annual growth rate as compared to the overall sector\rquote 
s approximately three percent annual growth rate.}{\cs16\super\insrsid7087798\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Kumar, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 477, at 1265.}}}{
\insrsid16319884\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid13511355\charrsid3826080 Aging baby boomers who have increasing amounts of disposable income to spend on beauty products, coupled with new emerging markets in Eastern Europe, Latin America, and Asia}{
\insrsid2640001\charrsid3826080 , should allow for}{\insrsid13511355\charrsid3826080  sustain}{\insrsid2640001\charrsid3826080 ing}{\insrsid13511355\charrsid3826080  such growth.}{\cs16\super\insrsid13511355\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 1267 (citing L\rquote Oreal\rquote s 2003 Management Report to its board).  L\rquote Oreal\rquote s report also lays out the industry\rquote 
s frailties, specifically that consumers\rquote  health, environmental, and animal testing concerns could raise costs and that the FDA could heighten regulations.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}}}{\insrsid13511355\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid1268096\charrsid3826080 On average, each woman buys four lipsticks every }{\insrsid15931988\charrsid3826080 year,}{\cs16\super\insrsid15931988\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, note 3, at 7 (noting, however, that while lipstick is a frequently purchased item, it is also one of the most commonly shoplifted items).}}}{\insrsid15931988\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid15533295\charrsid3826080 usually}{\insrsid10836895\charrsid3826080 
 from one of the top four cosmetics co}{\insrsid15533295\charrsid3826080 mpanies that account for roughly}{\insrsid10836895\charrsid3826080  sevent}{\insrsid15533295\charrsid3826080 y-five percent of all}{\insrsid10836895\charrsid3826080  United States}{
\insrsid15533295\charrsid3826080  lipstick revenues}{\insrsid10836895\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid10836895\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Kumar, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 477, at 1265 (specifying that Revlon holds a nearly twenty-two percent market share in the United States, followed by L\rquote Oreal with a nearly fourteen percent share, followed by Procter &  Gamble and Est\'e9e Lauder).  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Jeffries }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 510 (noting that alternately named brands actually controlled by L\rquote Orea
l include Maybelline and Lancome, and that named brands controlled by Procter & Gamble include Max Factor and Cover Girl) & Koehn, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 165, at 245 (listing Estee Lauder\rquote 
s alternately named brands as: Clinique, Prescriptives, Origins, Aveda, Bobbi Brown, jane, Jo Malone, La Mer, MAC, and Stila).}}}{\insrsid14704567\charrsid3826080   Both nationally and globally, in fact, the lipstick market has become a very concentrated
 one, with essentiall}{\insrsid15533295\charrsid3826080 y ten }{\insrsid14704567\charrsid3826080 powerful companies }{\insrsid1268096\charrsid3826080 making}{\insrsid8864903\charrsid3826080  almost all sales.}{\cs16\super\insrsid8864903\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See, e.g.,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Jeffries, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 510 (listing, as the companies that matter: L\rquote Oreal, Est\'e9
e Lauder, Procter & Gamble, Avon Products, Shiseido, Revlon, Coty, Chanel, Kanebo Cosmetics, and Alticor); Kumar, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 477, at 1265-66 (providing earnings and cash flow data on the top cosmetics companies); Koehn, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 165, at 245 (drawing the cutoff for companies that matter slightly higher at seven global cosmetics companies).}}}{\insrsid15621191\charrsid3826080   Following these ten cosmetics powerhouses, a second set of companies account for }{
\insrsid7479539\charrsid3826080 a remaining}{\insrsid15621191\charrsid3826080  eleven percent }{\insrsid7479539\charrsid3826080 share }{\insrsid15621191\charrsid3826080 of the lipstick and other cosmetics market.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid15621191\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Kumar, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 477, at 126
4 (writing that eleven percent of the leftover market share goes to another nine or ten companies: LVMH, The Body Shop, Mary Kay, Kao, Yves Rocher, Pola Cosmetics, Beiersdorf, Oriflame International, Boots Company, and Alticor, if one places it in the sec
ond rather than the first tier).}}}{\insrsid7479539\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid6621582\charrsid3826080 Between the }{\insrsid13511355\charrsid3826080 high revenues from lipstick, high growth rate of lipstick sales, }{\insrsid12546045\charrsid3826080 
and already consolidated nature of the lipstick market}{\insrsid13511355\charrsid3826080 , the economic statistics on lipstick indicate a strong presence for the near future.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2640001\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  The cosmetics market\rquote 
s consolidated nature has not escaped its participants, who monitor their few competitors.  L\rquote Oreal, the global leader in cosmetics sales, regularly analyses competitors\rquote  strengths and weaknesses.  In 2003, for example, L\rquote 
Oreal reported to its board on Est\'e9e Lauder, Proctor & Gamble, Avon, and Revlon to name a few.  Est\'e9e Lauder has difficulty promoting products, thought L\rquote Oreal, and the trend of shopping at discount stores that do not sell Est\'e9e Lauder
 products will hurt the company further.  Proctor & Gamble has high operating margins and high name recognition, but also has size-related innovation difficulties.  Avon has the world\rquote 
s largest direct sales network and a strong history of restructuring easily, but the trend of shopping at discount stores should hurt Avon as much as it does Est\'e9
e Lauder, because now Avon has many more competitors in cheap cosmetics.  And, Revlon, has the best mass-marketing, but has the disadvantage of relatively low research and development spending.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 1264 & 1267.  }}}{\insrsid7087798\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid10312388 {\insrsid12546045\charrsid3826080 Technological developments pertaining to lipstick provide a s
econd suggestion that lipstick will maintain public attention for the next several years.  While the }{\insrsid8351069\charrsid3826080 basic recipe for lipstick}{\insrsid6690053\charrsid3826080  has changed uniquely little}{
\insrsid8351069\charrsid3826080  throughout history,}{\cs16\super\insrsid6690053\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , note 8, at 6 (writing that, \'93unlike other cosmetics, lipstick\rquote s ingredients have pretty much stayed the same\'94 over time).}}}{\insrsid6690053\charrsid3826080 
 the exact formulation of lipstick\rquote s}{\insrsid7630942\charrsid3826080  base}{\insrsid8351069\charrsid3826080  has}{\insrsid6690053\charrsid3826080  improved}{\insrsid8351069\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid9265461\charrsid3826080 
 as have the options for }{\insrsid8351069\charrsid3826080 texture, }{\insrsid6379539\charrsid3826080 color,}{\insrsid8351069\charrsid3826080  and }{\insrsid6690053\charrsid3826080 non-cosmetic uses}{\insrsid8351069\charrsid3826080 .}{
\insrsid6690053\charrsid3826080   Formulatin}{\insrsid9265461\charrsid3826080 g the proper types and }{\insrsid6690053\charrsid3826080 
quantities of the waxes, oils, and emollients that collectively constitute the base of all lipsticks has become an increasingly elaborate science over time.}{\cs16\super\insrsid6690053\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 86 (explaining that bases made up of oils, waxes, and emollients give all lipsticks their adherence and ability to last).}}}{\insrsid4530655\charrsid3826080 
  Of late, cosmetics manufa
cturers have moved from simply relying on one type of wax, one type of oil, and one emollient to mixing several ingredients from each category for a better combination of quality and cost efficiency.  The wax component, which gives lipstick its shape, now
 usually consists of a carn}{\insrsid4354581\charrsid3826080 auba wax and beeswax mixture.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4354581\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}}}{\insrsid4354581\charrsid3826080   C}{\insrsid4530655\charrsid3826080 
arnauba wax offers}{\insrsid4354581\charrsid3826080  an improvement over classic pure}{\insrsid4530655\charrsid3826080  beeswax, because carnauba\rquote s high melting temperature renders lipsticks less likely to melt in hot weather.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid4530655\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }}}{\insrsid6049907\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid4354581\charrsid3826080 Additionally, a more sophisticated b
eeswax, developed in the late 1990s and known by the brand name Ultrabee, now helps to prevent lipstick sweating, improve lipstick application, and render lipstick more transfer resistant.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4354581\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Color Innovations Aid the Formulator}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Manufacturing Chemist}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 15 (June 1998) (enthusing about the new transesterification products of beeswax mixed with dimethicone copolyol).  Along with improved beeswax, adsorptive polymers also can prevent lipsticks from sweating when added \'93unloaded,\'94
 as contrasted to the polymer\rquote s \'93loaded\'94 form when used to deliver active ingredients like alpha hydroxyl acids or vitamins.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}}}{\insrsid4354581\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid6049907\charrsid3826080 
The oil component now relies more heavily on castor oil than before,}{\cs16\super\insrsid5994989\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, note 8, at 86-87 (describing the usual lipstick formula as sixty-five percent castor oil, fifteen percent beeswax, ten percent carnauba wax, and five percent lanolin, rounded out with the thickener ozokerite, color, and fragrance).  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 But see,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Valerie Parison, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Active Delivery from Nylon Particles; Nylon Microspheres}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 108 }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Cosm. & Toiletries}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  97 (Dec. 1993) (approximating the typical lipstick formula as nearly sixty percent ricin oil, nine percent carnauba wax, nine percent lanolin, and six percent bee
swax, rounded out by treated nylon microspheres, pigments, fragrance, ozokerite, and preservatives).}}}{\insrsid6049907\charrsid3826080  using l}{\insrsid5994989\charrsid3826080 anolin an}{\insrsid7819993\charrsid3826080 d petrolatum}{
\cs16\super\insrsid12933165\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Petrolatum often gets referred to as mineral oil, a prettier sounding derivative of petrolatum.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , note 8, at 95.}}}{\insrsid7819993\charrsid3826080  in only supplemental form}{\insrsid5994989\charrsid3826080 , presumably}{\insrsid6049907\charrsid3826080  due to lanolin\rquote 
s }{\insrsid5994989\charrsid3826080 pesticide contamination risk}{\cs16\super\insrsid5994989\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Ian Johnson, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Low Pesticide Lanolin: A History}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 105 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Cosm & Toiletries}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  63 (Aug. 1990) (considering the issue of lanolin\rquote 
s purity in regards to pesticide residues, which became so controversial in the late 1980s and early 1990s that the FDA began working to set acceptable contamination levels).  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , note 8, at 95-97 (explaining that lanolin \'93
is a yellow, fatty secretion from the oil and glands of sheep,\'94 also used as a lubricant for wheeling stones in ancient Egypt and as the earliest recorded laxative)  }}}{\insrsid6049907\charrsid3826080  and}{\insrsid5994989\charrsid3826080  petrolatum
\rquote s allergy risk.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5994989\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, note 8, at 95-97 (characterizing petrolatum, which Brooklyn chemist Robert Chesebrough discovered when it clogged his workers\rquote  drills, as a desirably effective moisturizer but an undesirably common allergen).}}}{\insrsid12933165\charrsid3826080 
  And, the emollients, protective agents that both disperse pigment and offer some }{\insrsid3284570\charrsid3826080 moisturizing}{\insrsid12933165\charrsid3826080 , have upgraded from the standard castor oil, lanolin, and esters}{
\cs16\super\insrsid12933165\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 86-87 (writing on the purpose of emollients and the standard options for emollients).}}}{\insrsid12933165\charrsid3826080 
 to also include}{\insrsid3284570\charrsid3826080  brand-name moisturizers and aloe vera, as well as multipurpose collagen and sunscreen.}{\cs16\super\insrsid3284570\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , note 3, at 40.}
}}{\insrsid10312388\charrsid3826080   Insertion of nylon microspheres, a practice popularized throughout the latter half of the 1990s, further assists in this dispersion and moisturizing process.  Not only do the nylon miscrospheres\rquote 
 fine particle size and narrow particle distribution improve the dispersal and skin adhesion of color, but nylon microspheres also deliver moisture better than did the formerly used water, which required extensive mixing at high temperatures.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid10312388\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Parison, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 523.}}}{\insrsid10312388\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid8876052\charrsid3826080 Moreover, t}{\insrsid1128341\charrsid3826080 
he entire process of combining these waxes}{\insrsid8876052\charrsid3826080 , oils, and emollients has }{\insrsid1128341\charrsid3826080 become mechanized, ensuring that lipsticks turn out exactly the same every time.  To d
escribe the process briefly: machines dispense pigments into a wetting agent and grind the mixture into a thick slurry,}{\cs16\super\insrsid8876052\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 88 (explaining further that the more finely the pigment mixture gets ground, the
 more uniform the final lipstick color turns out).}}}{\insrsid1128341\charrsid3826080  at which point the wax is added followed by the oils}{\insrsid2245127\charrsid3826080  and other incidentals}{\insrsid8876052\charrsid3826080  like fragrance}{
\insrsid1128341\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid1128341\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 at 87-88 & 113-114 (explicating that perfumes and flavorings, most often rose water and vanilla, serve to disguise the natural odors and tastes of other ingredients).}}}{\insrsid1128341\charrsid3826080   Then the mixture enters a temperature cont
rolled heating stage, after which the liquid gets poured into cold metal molds for a two to four minute dwell time.}{\cs16\super\insrsid1128341\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 88-89.}}}{\insrsid2245127\charrsid3826080   Bullets measuring about one-fourth inch long}{\cs16\super\insrsid2245127\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 84.}}}{\insrsid2245127\charrsid3826080  and taking one of three shapes}{\cs16\super\insrsid2245127\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  M
anufacturers make three basic shapes of lipstick, all of them variations on the bullet that first appeared in the late 1930s.  Fishtail lipsticks get angled on both sides of the tip, teardrop lipsticks have a pointed tip angled on one side, and wedge lips
ticks have a rounded tip angled on one side.  R}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , note 3, at 40 }}}{\insrsid2245127\charrsid3826080  exit the molds while still cold so as to not risk shape dist
ortion, enter their cases, and shoot through a flame for about half a second to create the now expected flawlessly smooth, glossy finish.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2245127\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 8, at 89.}}}{\insrsid10054748\charrsid3826080   Thus has lipstick\rquote 
s basic recipe developed into a sophisticated formula of multiple varieties of each ingredient processed in a mechanized manner to more reliable and aesthetically pleasing effect.}{\insrsid1128341\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid12678583 {\insrsid9265461\charrsid3826080 Along with honing the basic lipstick formula, cosmetics companies have}{\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080 
 also}{\insrsid9265461\charrsid3826080 , over the past few dec}{\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080 ades, }{\insrsid9265461\charrsid3826080 figured}{\insrsid6379539\charrsid3826080  out how to create at least six}{\insrsid9265461\charrsid3826080 
 different textures of lipstick by adjusting the relative proportions of }{\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080 wax, oil, and emollients.  Standard}{\insrsid9265461\charrsid3826080  matt}{\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080 e lipsticks}{
\insrsid9265461\charrsid3826080  have more wax and pigment, less emollient}{\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid9265461\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 46.}}}{\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080   Cr\'e8me lipsticks have more oil than do matte lipsticks, and, as the most popular texture of lipstick today, the newer cr\'e8
mes have nearly rendered mattes obsolete.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid16389898\charrsid3826080   The even yet}{\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid16389898\charrsid3826080 newer option of gloss lipstick depends upon having}{\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080  many more emoll}{\insrsid16389898\charrsid3826080 ients than do other textures of lipstick, and also upon using}{
\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080  softer waxes.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 
{\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}}}{\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080   Similarly, the sheers or}{\insrsid16389898\charrsid3826080  stains, which}{
\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080  h}{\insrsid16389898\charrsid3826080 ave appeared}{\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080  in the past decade as a subtler spin on glosses}{\insrsid16389898\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080 
 feature a lot of oil and softer than normal wax.}{\cs16\super\insrsid4540661\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}}}{\insrsid6379539\charrsid3826080   S}{\insrsid16389898\charrsid3826080 
himmers offer the twenty-first century version of the 1970s glimmer lipstick, with the glittery look now coming from mica or silica more often than ground fish scales.}{\cs16\super\insrsid16389898\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid7690227\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid6379539\charrsid3826080 
Finally, long-lasting lipsticks, although attempted for nearly a century, have just in the past few years become actually durable as well as comfortable.  Discovery of a new beeswax-silicone derivative that evaporates quickly on the lip\rquote s s
urface for wear-resistant color but that also has an oil-like consistency for comfortable moistness has provided the key to }{\insrsid1128341\charrsid3826080 realizing}{\insrsid6379539\charrsid3826080  the long-lasting texture.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid1128341\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Color Innovations Aid the Formulator}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 522.  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See also}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , note 8, at 8
6 (describing the new beeswax in more layman\rquote s terms).}}}{\insrsid12678583\charrsid3826080   Addition of a free radical scavenger known as expanchimie has helped too though, as it can lock in moisture without obstructing dye\rquote s longevity.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid12678583\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Color Innovations Aid the Formulator}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 note 522 (describing expanchimie\rquote s production, via molecular distillation of sesame oil, and purpose, moisturizing).}}}{\insrsid12678583\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid10299832 {\insrsid14249763\charrsid3826080 
Color has improved along with texture, both in terms of safety and looks.  In terms of safety, known poisons like vermilion, mercury, and arsenic have long since vanished from lipstick.  Ensurin}{\insrsid15610497\charrsid3826080 g the safe
ty of colorants has more than mere historic concern though, as evidenced by}{\insrsid14249763\charrsid3826080  both the ongoing color additives testing and this year\rquote s proposed rule on carmine labeling.  }{\insrsid15610497\charrsid3826080 
Despite its status as the classic red dye}{\cs16\super\insrsid16672669\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  In technical terms, the words \'93pigment\'94 and \'93dye\'94 do not operate quite so interchangeably as used herein.  Technically, pigment color adheres to the lips
\rquote  surface, while dye color gets absorbed into the skin.  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , note 8, at 87.}}}{
\insrsid15610497\charrsid3826080  in lipstick since ancient Egyptian times, carmine turns out to pose a risk of life-threatening allergic reactions, as discovered by University of Michigan doctors in the late 1990s.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid15610497\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Okie, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 note 11, at Z5 (announcing that University of Michigan doctors used the Prausnitz-Kustner test to demonstrate that patients\rquote 
 immune systems produce possibly life-threatening allergic reactions to the carmine dye).}}}{\insrsid6895306\charrsid3826080   So, the FDA in 2006 announced a proposed revisal of its labeling requirements such that cochineal extract and carmin
e must appear on all food and cosmetics labels in order to help affected customers avoid the colorant.}{\cs16\super\insrsid6895306\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  21 Fed. Reg. 4839 (Jan. 30, 2006).}}}{\insrsid6646828\charrsid3826080 
  Correspondingly, the appearance of lipstick color has also continued to improve, with more shades, more special effects, and more complete pigment dispersion for more uniformly intense hues.}{\cs16\super\insrsid6646828\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Jeffries, }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 510.}}}{\insrsid6646828\charrsid3826080   Use of interference colors has, in particular, advanced within the past five to ten years.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid6646828\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Color Innovations Aid the Formulator}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 522.  }}}{
\insrsid16330554\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid10299832\charrsid3826080 Effect pigments, such as pearlescents, metallics, and, quite recently, iridescent colors, have helped lipstick companies expand into the preteen market.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid10299832\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Sara Mason & Rachel Rasmussen, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
State of the Industry: Understanding Consumer Need and Opportunity Can Bet t he Difference in Beating a Competitor in a Crowded Marketplace, No Matter the Economic Climate}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 171 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
Global Cosm. Indus.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  26 (Dec. 1, 2003).}}}{\insrsid10299832\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9592184\charrsid3826080 As color assessment remains \'93the most studied and explored field in lipstick evaluation,\'94
 presumably persistent use of reflectance spectrophotometry, reflectance tristimulus colorimetry, and video imaging will improve color quality yet further.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9592184\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Rodolphe Korichi, et. al., }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Quantitative Assessment of Properties of Make-Up Products By Video Imaging: Application to Lipsticks}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 6 Skin Research and Tech. 222, 222-24 (2000) (offering considerably more details abou
t all three quantitative measures of color analysis, and advocating for video imaging as the best method for assessing colors\rquote  covering power, brightness, and streakiness).}}}{\insrsid9592184\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid12982727\charrsid3826080 
That}{\insrsid7690227\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12982727\charrsid3826080 expensive }{\insrsid7690227\charrsid3826080 product development}{\insrsid12982727\charrsid3826080  technology continues}{\insrsid16330554\charrsid3826080  to expand and improve}{
\insrsid7690227\charrsid3826080  lipstick\rquote s }{\insrsid10422549\charrsid3826080 base formula}{\insrsid16330554\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid7690227\charrsid3826080 texture}{\insrsid12982727\charrsid3826080 , and color options}{
\cs16\super\insrsid10637298\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  One might easily underestimate the extent of these options, with L\rquote Oreal\rquote s labs alone creating more than three thousand lipstick formulas per year.  Kumar, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 477, at 1267.  At present, L\rquote Oreal\rquote s Lancome brand alone offers nineteen lip products in two-hundred and eighty-two shades.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, Lancome online store, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 available at}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  www. lancome-usa.com/_us/_en/catalog/makeup2.aspx?CategoryCode=AXEMakeup^F1_Lips^F2_Lip_Lipcolour&& (Feb. 8, 2006).}}}{
\insrsid12982727\charrsid3826080  indicates industry sanguinity about lipstick\rquote s future, and also provides a reasonable chance that consumer demand will contin}{\insrsid10108554\charrsid3826080 ue responding to the continuously}{
\insrsid12982727\charrsid3826080  improving product.}{\insrsid10299832\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \fi720\li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid8859524 {\insrsid13202964\charrsid3826080 Technological development of non-cosmetic applications for}{\insrsid6055559\charrsid3826080  lipstick}{
\insrsid13202964\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid343127\charrsid3826080 has}{\insrsid13202964\charrsid3826080  also increased the product\rquote s desirability an}{\insrsid1137736\charrsid3826080 d could}{\insrsid13202964\charrsid3826080 
 contribute towards its longevity.}{\insrsid343127\charrsid3826080   Both lipstick\rquote s previously discussed sun protection faculty and lipstick\rquote s even more recent forensic utility}{\insrsid8023568\charrsid3826080  render}{
\insrsid343127\charrsid3826080  lipstick}{\insrsid8023568\charrsid3826080  newly}{\insrsid343127\charrsid3826080  valuable for reasons totally apart from beautification.}{\insrsid8023568\charrsid3826080   Lipstick}{\insrsid16014369\charrsid3826080 , or }{
\insrsid1137736\charrsid3826080 alternately}{\insrsid16014369\charrsid3826080  marketed chaps}{\insrsid8023568\charrsid3826080 tick, that serves as sun protection has become b
ig business; it will likely grow into even bigger business once people begin to better appreciate lips\rquote  constant}{\insrsid343127\charrsid3826080 
 exposure to the sun, particularly the lower lip, which receives the highest ultraviolet exposure of any facial }{\insrsid8023568\charrsid3826080 region.}{\cs16\super\insrsid8023568\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  H. Maier, et. al., }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Assessment of Thickness of Photoprotective Lipsticks and Frequency of Reapplication: Results from a Laboratory Test and a Field Experiment}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 148 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
Brit. J. of Dermatology}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  763, 764 (2003).  Along with emphasizing lips\rquote  need for sun protection given their frequent exposure, Maier and colleagues also acknowledge that it \'93
appears that lip skin is less sensitive to UV radiation than [is] normal skin.\'94  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 768.}}}{\insrsid8023568\charrsid3826080   At the moment,}{\insrsid16014369\charrsid3826080 
 lipsticks actually fail to deliver the}{\insrsid7475965\charrsid3826080 ir advertis}{\insrsid16014369\charrsid3826080 ed SPF}{\insrsid8023568\charrsid3826080 , because people}{\insrsid16014369\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid8023568\charrsid3826080 
 in practice}{\insrsid16014369\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid8023568\charrsid3826080  do not apply }{\insrsid16014369\charrsid3826080 lipsticks with}{\insrsid8023568\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid16014369\charrsid3826080 the required thickness and }{
\insrsid8023568\charrsid3826080 frequency necessary t}{\insrsid16014369\charrsid3826080 o achieve and maintain labeled}{\insrsid8023568\charrsid3826080  SPF}{\insrsid16014369\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid8023568\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid16014369\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 at 763-768 (reporting the results from a lab test and a ski trip field test involving male and female participants; lab test participants applied lipstick at about fifty percent of the reference area density, while field
 test participants applied lipstick more thickly but still on the low side, and both groups of participantsapplied the lipstick far to infrequently for adequate protection).  }}}{\insrsid8023568\charrsid3826080   However, lipstick has poten}{
\insrsid16014369\charrsid3826080 tial to offer a particularly appealing}{\insrsid7475965\charrsid3826080  form of ultraviolet protection}{\insrsid1137736\charrsid3826080 , because lipstick\rquote s }{\insrsid16014369\charrsid3826080 
strong adhesive quality makes it a more potent sun block than other sunscreen preparations that contain more water and cling less well.}{\cs16\super\insrsid16014369\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 767 (but also noting lipstick\rquote s disadvantageous tendency to get wiped off and licked away).}}}{\insrsid7475965\charrsid3826080   Since awareness about the importance of }{
\insrsid14373318\charrsid3826080 sun protection grows each year}{\insrsid7475965\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid14373318\charrsid3826080 lipstick\rquote 
s alter ego as a sunscreen could prove most profitable.  As a sun block, lipstick could both saturate the male market for the first time in several h}{\insrsid8741011\charrsid3826080 undred years and could also garner more frequent purchase}{
\insrsid14373318\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid8741011\charrsid3826080 in }{\insrsid14373318\charrsid3826080 the female market beca}{\insrsid8741011\charrsid3826080 use of the safety need for }{\insrsid14373318\charrsid3826080 frequent application.}{
\insrsid1790910\charrsid3826080   Along with this recent consumer utility as sun protection, lipstick also has utility to detectives as a sourc}{\insrsid1137736\charrsid3826080 e of forensic evidence}{\insrsid1790910\charrsid3826080 .}{
\insrsid13381751\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid12198800\charrsid3826080 Lipstick mark}{\insrsid7149573\charrsid3826080 s offer investigators an excellent}{\insrsid12198800\charrsid3826080  perpetrator, victim, or witness identification method, because lips
\rquote  unique patterns of furrows}{\insrsid7149573\charrsid3826080 , highlighted by lipstick,}{\insrsid1137736\charrsid3826080  provide a reliable identifier akin to fingerprints}{\insrsid12198800\charrsid3826080 .}{
\cs16\super\insrsid12198800\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid12198800 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {
\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Jon-Seong Ryu, et. al., }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Improving Lip Wrinkles: Lipstick-Related Image Analysis}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 11 }{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Skin Res. & Tech.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  157, 157-63 (2005) (mentioning the way in which lipstick\rquote s highlighting of lip wrinkles aids forensic scientists, but focusing on t
he finding that lipsticks containing asiaticoside can reduce the number and depth of lip wrinkles associated with aging).}}}{\insrsid12198800\charrsid3826080 
  Having lip prints as an alternative to fingerprints proves particularly valuable when trying to raise marks on corpses.}{\insrsid15017331\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid15925609\charrsid3826080 Raising fingerprints on human skin}{
\insrsid12198800\charrsid3826080 , although possible,}{\insrsid15925609\charrsid3826080  holds particular difficulty}{\insrsid12198800\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid15925609\charrsid3826080  because \'93the same organic elements that generate the prints 
\endash  and are used for detection \endash  can also be found on the skin.  Therefore, interferences in developing are frequent.\'94}{\cs16\super\insrsid15925609\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Esperanza Navarro, et. al., }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Criminalystic: Effectiveness of Lysochromes on the Developing of Invisible Lipstick-Contaminated Lipmarks on Human Skin, A Preliminary Study}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 158 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
Forensic Sci. Int\rquote l.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  9 (2006). }}}{\insrsid7149573\charrsid3826080   Marks made in lipstick do not pose the same difficulty though, and it has}{\insrsid15925609\charrsid3826080 
 recently even become possible to develop invisible lip marks on skin when the person who left the marks wore long-lasting lipstick.}{\cs16\super\insrsid7149573\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 9-10.}}}{\insrsid7149573\charrsid3826080   In a study published this year, scientists showed it possible to raise}{\insrsid1137736\charrsid3826080  invisible lipsticked }{
\insrsid2183841\charrsid3826080 lip}{\insrsid7149573\charrsid3826080  marks, }{\insrsid1137736\charrsid3826080 at least }{\insrsid7149573\charrsid3826080 if }{\insrsid2183841\charrsid3826080 the marks were }{\insrsid7149573\charrsid3826080 made }{
\insrsid2183841\charrsid3826080 relatively recently and if the lipstick was a }{\insrsid7149573\charrsid3826080 long-lasting }{\insrsid2183841\charrsid3826080 formula}{\insrsid7149573\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid2183841\charrsid3826080 
 by spreading a reagent of }{\insrsid7149573\charrsid3826080 Sudan III, Sudan Black, or Oil Red O}{\insrsid2183841\charrsid3826080  on corpses\rquote  skin.}{\cs16\super\insrsid2183841\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080   at 10-13.}}}{\insrsid1137736\charrsid3826080   While lipstick\rquote s forensic value will not directly spark consu}{\insrsid9862518\charrsid3826080 
mer sales, and could decrease lipstick use}{\insrsid1137736\charrsid3826080  among those who prefer to remain less traceable, lipstick\rquote s forens}{\insrsid9862518\charrsid3826080 ic value should render it}{\insrsid1137736\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid9862518\charrsid3826080 popular with law enforcement}{\insrsid1137736\charrsid3826080  and }{\insrsid9862518\charrsid3826080 justice officials, and }{\insrsid1137736\charrsid3826080 so }{\insrsid9862518\charrsid3826080 in tur}{
\insrsid8859524\charrsid3826080 n less vulnerable to any sort of official resistance}{\insrsid1137736\charrsid3826080 .  }{\insrsid8859524\charrsid3826080 Lipstick\rquote 
s gradual taking on of functions other than cosmetic ones signals its dominant role in society that seems unlikely to immediately change.  }{\insrsid1137736\charrsid3826080 The sheer volume of technology poured into and d
eveloped around lipstick vehemently suggests that }{\insrsid8733817\charrsid3826080 lipstick\rquote s social }{\insrsid8859524\charrsid3826080 status will remain high and so any social sanctions remain low.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9907890\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 In addition to the technological developments particular to lipstick discussed above, lipstick has also benefited from the more universally applicab
le development of the internet.  Like other products, lipstick now gets sold online, sometimes through elaborate virtual make-over sites.  Digital marketing does challenge lipstick companies though, because online shopping does not allow for persuasive fa
ce-to-face consultations or for sampling.  Kumar, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 477, at 1270.}}}{\insrsid2183841\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid1135713 {\insrsid8859524\charrsid3826080 \tab }{\insrsid9255053\charrsid3826080 Just as}{\insrsid10637298\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid6184304\charrsid3826080 lipstick\rquote s }{\insrsid10637298\charrsid3826080 social regulation}{\insrsid9126817\charrsid3826080  will probably}{\insrsid10637298\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid12527955\charrsid3826080 remain at its current low level,}{
\insrsid9126817\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid6184304\charrsid3826080 lipstick\rquote s }{\insrsid10637298\charrsid3826080 legal regulation will probably continue to remain at its historical high.  }{\insrsid82565\charrsid3826080 
Given that the average woman now eats one to three tubes of lipstick per year,}{\cs16\super\insrsid82565\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , note 8, at 173.}}}{\insrsid82565\charrsid3826080  or four to nine pounds of lipstick over the course of her lifetime,}{\cs16\super\insrsid82565\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote 
\pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  R}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 agas & }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 K}{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ozlowski}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , note 3, at 7.}}
}{\insrsid82565\charrsid3826080  this safety regulation seems wise.  Alternately, given the historical concer}{\insrsid9126817\charrsid3826080 n with lipstick\rquote s threat to masculine rather than feminine}{\insrsid82565\charrsid3826080 
 safety, the estimation that teena}{\insrsid6184304\charrsid3826080 ge boys}{\insrsid82565\charrsid3826080  actually consume the highest quantities of lipstick invites the product\rquote s safety regulation.}{\cs16\super\insrsid82565\charrsid3826080 
\chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  P}{
\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 allingston}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , note 8, at 45 (reporting the hypothesis that teenage boys\rquote  proclivity for spending 
long hours kissing the group of heaviest lipstick wearers leads to the boys particularly high lipstick consumption).}}}{\insrsid4663463\charrsid3826080   At the national}{\insrsid6184304\charrsid3826080  level, the FDA }{\insrsid5136806\charrsid3826080 
likely cannot avoid adding international regulatory awareness}{\insrsid4663463\charrsid3826080  to its }{\insrsid5136806\charrsid3826080 doubtless continued }{\insrsid4663463\charrsid3826080 monitoring of color additives and the c}{
\insrsid5136806\charrsid3826080 osmetics-drugs distinction, and state actors likely will }{\insrsid4663463\charrsid3826080 continue amplifying}{\insrsid6184304\charrsid3826080  federal regulations.}{\insrsid5136806\charrsid3826080 
  Considering that the FDA\rquote s monitoring of color additives and of the thin divide between cosmetics and drugs has more gained than lost momentum over the past thirty or so years, one can ex}{\insrsid15344976\charrsid3826080 
pect that this dual regulatory concentration will continue}{\insrsid5136806\charrsid3826080  for at lea}{\insrsid12479644\charrsid3826080 st the next several years to come.}{\cs16\super\insrsid12479644\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See, e.g.,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  69 Fed. Reg. 44927 (July 28, 2004) (recent petition for and acceptance of listing Black No. 2 for use in lipstick and other co
smetics); 65 Fed. Reg. 48375, 48375-76 (Aug. 8, 2000) (recent amendment to the color additives regulations to permit certain use of luminescent zinc sulfide in externally applied cosmetics not intended for daily wear and only marketed on special occasions
 such as Halloween); 70 Fed. Reg. 1721, 1721-24 (Jan. 10, 2005) (recent guidance concerning labeling requirements for and possible drug status of cosmetics that contain alpha-hydroxy acids).}}}{\insrsid12479644\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid5841602\charrsid3826080 The FDA will almost surely need to expand this focus to international regulatory issues though, given the increasing globalization of the cosmetics market.}{\insrsid15100167\charrsid3826080   }{
\insrsid5379370\charrsid3826080 Theoretically, cosmetics companies could simply make differently form}{\insrsid9255053\charrsid3826080 ulated products for the different major }{\insrsid5379370\charrsid3826080 United States}{
\insrsid9255053\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid5379370\charrsid3826080 European Union, and Japan}{\insrsid9255053\charrsid3826080 ese markets}{\insrsid5379370\charrsid3826080 , and the FDA could regulate cosmetics careless of other countries\rquote 
 noticeably divergent procedures for doing so.}{\cs16\super\insrsid5379370\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 
{\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Janet Winter Blaschke, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Globalization of Cosmetic Regulations}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 60
 Food & Drug L. J. 413, 413-19 (2005) (naming the primary world cosmetics markets and explaining how these markets have dissimilar regulations regarding ingredient approval, labeling, product registration or notification, and cosmetics versus drug status 
divisions).}}}{\insrsid5379370\charrsid3826080   More likely though, the powerful cosmetics industry will pressure the government to work towards globally standardized cosmetics regulations while consumer groups will also exer}{
\insrsid9578152\charrsid3826080 t somewhat parallel pressure on}{\insrsid9255053\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid5379370\charrsid3826080 government to offer the same protections as do other countries.}{\insrsid1180395\charrsid3826080   Alr}{
\insrsid9578152\charrsid3826080 eady,}{\insrsid7673526\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid16408095\charrsid3826080 at least four }{\insrsid7673526\charrsid3826080 glimmerings of such a multinational regulatory synchronization process}{
\insrsid9578152\charrsid3826080  have}{\insrsid16408095\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid9578152\charrsid3826080 surface}{\insrsid16408095\charrsid3826080 d}{\insrsid9578152\charrsid3826080 .  A United States-initiated International Nomenclature o}{
\insrsid2184252\charrsid3826080 f Cosmetic Ingredients has }{\insrsid9578152\charrsid3826080 begun working towards a universal ingredient listing system.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9578152\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  at 417-18.}}}{\insrsid16408095\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid9255053\charrsid3826080 The European Union has already begun implementing this standardized 
ingredient identification system in order that people in all of its m}{\insrsid8527949\charrsid3826080 ember countries might use}{\insrsid9255053\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid8527949\charrsid3826080 a single }{\insrsid9255053\charrsid3826080 
Latin-based cosmetics label}{\insrsid8527949\charrsid3826080  rather than needing multiple labels for each product}{\insrsid9255053\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid9255053\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 The Complexities of Cosmetics Labeling}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Inside Cosm.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
, 23, Oct. 1997.  Somewhat ironically, the United States has yet to make the obvious corollary move regarding ingredient quantity labeling; the United States still insists th
at cosmetics quantities be listed in avoirdupois and fluid ounces despite the world\rquote s use of metric measurements.  Blaschke, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 563, at 415.}}}{
\insrsid9255053\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid16408095\charrsid3826080 In addition, t}{\insrsid9578152\charrsid3826080 he cosmetics industry holds \'93Mutual Understand\'94 meetin
gs every four years to share information and work towards regulatory harmonization.}{\cs16\super\insrsid9578152\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Blaschke, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 supra}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  note 563, at 418-19.}}}{
\insrsid16408095\charrsid3826080   Thirdly, United States environmental groups have begun to growl about the absence of paraben limitations in cosmetics here, given that the European Union\rquote s Cosmetics Dire
ctive has set maximum paraben concentrations for cosmetics under its control.}{\cs16\super\insrsid16408095\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Veronica MacDonald &  Nancy Seewald, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Household and Personal Care; 
Awash in New Rules}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Chemical Wk.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , Nov. 30, 2005, at 25.}}}{\insrsid16408095\charrsid3826080   This debate could balloon even further }{
\insrsid403648\charrsid3826080 from merely arguments about the cancer risk posed by cosmetics\rquote  containing parabens as preservatives }{\insrsid16408095\charrsid3826080 into arguments about the United States\rquote  }{\insrsid403648\charrsid3826080 
generally risk}{\insrsid16408095\charrsid3826080 -based cosmetics regulations}{\cs16\super\insrsid403648\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  The United States\rquote 
 color additive laws provide one notable exception to the otherwise industry-friendly, risk-based approach to cosmetics regulation.  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id.}}}{\insrsid16408095\charrsid3826080  as compared to the European Union\rquote s }{
\insrsid403648\charrsid3826080 more protective }{\insrsid16408095\charrsid3826080 hazard-based regulations.}{\cs16\super\insrsid403648\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  id.}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  (providing background informatio
n on why environmental groups worry about parabens in cosmetics, namely because the groups think that parabens could cause cancer by accumulating in the body\rquote 
s fatty tissue and mimicking the actions of oestrogen, as well as why the United States has taken a different regulatory approach to parabens than has the European Union).}}}{\insrsid2184252\charrsid3826080   Fourth and finally,}{
\insrsid96301\charrsid3826080  American animal rights groups have observed and commented on the European Union\rquote s Seventh Amendment to the Cosmetics Directive,}{\cs16\super\insrsid3499108\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{
\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See e.g}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Avril Stephens, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Animal Rights Slam EU Testing Ban}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , CNN, Nov. 7, 2002, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 available at}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  http://edition.cnn.com/2002/WORLD/europe/11/07/eu.cosmetics/index.html (discussing European animal rights\rquote 
 activists dissatisfaction with the extent of the Seventh Amendment to the Cosmetics Directive but American animal rights\rquote  activists view of the Amendment as a step in the right direction that the United States should emulate).}}}{
\insrsid96301\charrsid3826080  which}{\insrsid3499108\charrsid3826080 , upon the development of alternative tests,}{\insrsid96301\charrsid3826080  would introduce a ban on selling cosmetics whose ingredient or product safety tests involved animal testing.
}{\cs16\super\insrsid96301\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  Azalea P. Rosholt, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 The Seventh Amendment Directive \endash  An Unnecessary Measure to a Necessary End \endash 
 Possible Legal Challenges to Directive 2003/15/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council Amending Council Directive 76/768/EEC Under European Union Law}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 60 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Food Drug L. J.}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  421, 422-25 (discussing the animal testing ban put forth by the Seventh Amendment to the Cosmetics Directive and its potential for success relative to 1993\rquote 
s Sixth Amendment to the Cosmetics Directive, which Sixth Amendment attempted to accomplish the same goal but without having an automatic effectiveness date).}}}{\insrsid10779129\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid11749974\charrsid3826080 
On their own none of these international discussions scream revolution, but, taken together, they suggest that federal regulation of lipstick and other cosmetics will of necessity increasingly acquire an international perspective.}{
\insrsid9383885\charrsid3826080 
\par }{\insrsid1135713\charrsid3826080 \tab }{\insrsid7809219\charrsid3826080 At the state level too, regulation will likely develop along the lines seen in the past few decades, but p}{\insrsid11681112\charrsid3826080 erhaps with legislators\rquote  adopting}
{\insrsid7809219\charrsid3826080  a heightened awareness for what other similarly situated regulators have chosen to do.  Despite cosmetics companies\rquote  wishes, states will continue to add on to the national }{\insrsid11681112\charrsid3826080 
cosmetics laws}{\insrsid7809219\charrsid3826080 , and to do so in an independent enough manner as to leave cosmetics companie}{\insrsid11681112\charrsid3826080 s liable for differing regulations}{\insrsid7809219\charrsid3826080  on a state by state basis.
}{\insrsid11681112\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid70095\charrsid3826080 For example, California, yet again at the forefront}{\insrsid11681112\charrsid3826080  of expansive st}{\insrsid70095\charrsid3826080 ate regulation, last year passed}{
\insrsid11681112\charrsid3826080  th}{\insrsid70095\charrsid3826080 e California Safe Cosmetics Act.}{\cs16\super\insrsid13702370\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 See,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 2005 Cal. A.L.S. 729 (2005)(announcing the California Safe Cosmetics Act, its motivations, and its purposes).}}}{\insrsid70095\charrsid3826080   Under this }{\insrsid3753229\charrsid3826080 new Act, cosmetics companies that}{
\insrsid70095\charrsid3826080  wish to sell products in California must disclose to the state any use of phthalates or other harmful chemicals in the cosmetics, must provide the state Department of Health Services with relevant health effects data a
nd studies and other information as requested, and must submit to higher regulation of commercial cosmetics than federal law would otherwise require.}{\cs16\super\insrsid70095\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain 
\s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 Institute for Global Health & University of California Berkeley, }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 The California Safe Cosmetics Act 2005,}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Health Pol\rquote y Monitor}{
\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 available at}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
 http://www.healthpolicymonitor.org/en/Policy_Survey/Search_for_Policy_ Reforms/Survey_Details/The_California_Safe_Cosmetics_Act_2005.html?content_id=251&sortOrder=sortAsc&rating_val
ueDegree%20of%20Innovation=128:0&freeText=California&sortBy=sortCountry&single_country:261=261&rating_valueStructural%20or%20Systemic%20Impact=130:0&actor=110&rating_valueDegree%20of%20Controversy=129:0&whichSearch=searchNormal&policy_number=0&report=0&ra
ting_valuePublic%20Visibility=131:0&language=en&issue=0&rating_valueTransferability=132:0&y=5&stage=0&x=44}}}{\insrsid13702370\charrsid3826080   Hearkening back to the }{\insrsid3753229\charrsid3826080 influence of international cosmetics law,}{
\insrsid13702370\charrsid3826080  San Francisco Senator }{\insrsid3753229\charrsid3826080 Carole }{\insrsid13702370\charrsid3826080 Migden spearheaded this legislation inspired by the European Union\rquote s year 2003 ban on phthalates from cosmetics.}{
\cs16\super\insrsid13702370\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 \fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
\chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Id}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 .}}}{\insrsid3753229\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid328925\charrsid3826080 
Presumably other states will continue to follow California in using state regulation to tighten what some think the overly loose federal regulation of cosmetics.  Since}{\insrsid6566103\charrsid3826080 
 several states have in the past few decades begun pilin}{\insrsid328925\charrsid3826080 g }{\insrsid6566103\charrsid3826080 their own rules atop the federal cosmetics regulations}{\insrsid328925\charrsid3826080 
, and since it has become widely recognized that }{\insrsid6566103\charrsid3826080 this phenomenon of state cosmetics regulation is occurring, it seems likely}{\insrsid328925\charrsid3826080  that states will more and more often look to one another
\rquote s cosmetics laws when shaping their own.  So does state regulation\rquote }{\insrsid6566103\charrsid3826080 s future seem set to}{\insrsid7212641\charrsid3826080  trod its late twentieth-century path of states supplementing}{
\insrsid6566103\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid328925\charrsid3826080 federal cosmetics regulations}{\insrsid6566103\charrsid3826080 , logically, although not necessarily, looking to other states\rquote  already accomplished cosmetics regulations as guidance}
{\insrsid328925\charrsid3826080 .}{\insrsid6566103\charrsid3826080   }{\insrsid70095\charrsid3826080 
\par }\pard \ql \li0\ri0\sl480\slmult1\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0\pararsid10833632 {\insrsid6566103\charrsid3826080 \tab The }{\insrsid11425490\charrsid3826080 Western }{\insrsid6566103\charrsid3826080 history of lipstick}{
\insrsid7212641\charrsid3826080 , although}{\insrsid6566103\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid7212641\charrsid3826080 begun}{\insrsid6566103\charrsid3826080  multiple millennia ago}{\insrsid7212641\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid6566103\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid7212641\charrsid3826080 has the remarkably modern }{\insrsid7168482\charrsid3826080 feel of any tale that takes}{\insrsid2835630\charrsid3826080  at its essence}{\insrsid7212641\charrsid3826080  human nature an
d the laws that this human nature produces.  Because lip}{\insrsid13251419\charrsid3826080 stick, }{\insrsid2835630\charrsid3826080 from the start}{\insrsid13251419\charrsid3826080 ,}{\insrsid2835630\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid13251419\charrsid3826080 
heavily }{\insrsid2835630\charrsid3826080 implicated}{\insrsid7212641\charrsid3826080  identity, whether class or gender}{\insrsid7168482\charrsid3826080  or both, lipstick\rquote s}{\insrsid13251419\charrsid3826080  regulation did}{
\insrsid2835630\charrsid3826080  initially and has continually involved }{\insrsid15421774\charrsid3826080 inform}{\insrsid13251419\charrsid3826080 al and formal status rules}{\insrsid15421774\charrsid3826080  concerning}{\insrsid1064277\charrsid3826080 
 who could and could not use }{\insrsid7168482\charrsid3826080 the cosmetic}{\insrsid2835630\charrsid3826080 .  }{\insrsid11425490\charrsid3826080 Early}{\insrsid13251419\charrsid3826080  status}{\insrsid15421774\charrsid3826080  regulation}{
\insrsid11425490\charrsid3826080 s}{\insrsid15421774\charrsid3826080  of lipstick }{\insrsid11425490\charrsid3826080 often }{\insrsid15421774\charrsid3826080 took ac}{\insrsid14881229\charrsid3826080 tual legal form}{\insrsid3697588 ,}{
\insrsid14881229\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11425490\charrsid3826080 whereas more recent status regulations have almost always taken unwritten social form}{\insrsid15421774\charrsid3826080 , }{\insrsid7168482\charrsid3826080 but }{
\insrsid13251419\charrsid3826080 understood dictates}{\insrsid1064277\charrsid3826080  about }{\insrsid15421774\charrsid3826080 who acceptably may wear lipstick}{\insrsid1064277\charrsid3826080  have hardly faded away.  That elite legal journals discuss 
\'93lipstick lesbians\'94 as radically destabilizing the rules of gender by wearing a symbol of femininity while making masculine sexual}{\insrsid14881229\charrsid3826080  choices, demonstrates that }{\insrsid13251419\charrsid3826080 status}{
\insrsid1064277\charrsid3826080  regulat}{\insrsid10361800\charrsid3826080 ion of lipstick}{\insrsid13251419\charrsid3826080 , however nominally informal,}{\insrsid10361800\charrsid3826080  remains }{\insrsid13251419\charrsid3826080 forcefully }{
\insrsid10361800\charrsid3826080 in effect}{\insrsid1064277\charrsid3826080 .}{\cs16\super\insrsid1064277\charrsid3826080 \chftn {\footnote \pard\plain \s15\ql \li0\ri0\widctlpar\aspalpha\aspnum\faauto\adjustright\rin0\lin0\itap0 
\fs20\lang1033\langfe1033\cgrid\langnp1033\langfenp1033 {\cs16\super\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 \chftn }{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080  }{\i\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 
Patriarchy is Such a Drag: The Strategic Possibilities of a Posmodern Account of Gender}{\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 , 108 }{\scaps\insrsid3697588\charrsid3826080 Harv. L. Rev.}{\insrsid3697588  1973, 1988 (1995).}}}{\insrsid1064277\charrsid3826080   
}{\insrsid13251419\charrsid3826080 In addition to the age-old status regulations though, other types of lipstick regulations have also accumulated over time.  }{\insrsid10361800\charrsid3826080 Advances}{\insrsid2835630\charrsid3826080  }{
\insrsid10361800\charrsid3826080 in }{\insrsid2835630\charrsid3826080 medical }{\insrsid10361800\charrsid3826080 and scientific knowledge led to}{\insrsid15421774\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid3697588 a second layer of human safety regulations}{
\insrsid15421774\charrsid3826080 .  }{\insrsid11425490\charrsid3826080 Even more recently, concern for the environment coupled with}{\insrsid15421774\charrsid3826080  }{\insrsid11425490\charrsid3826080 an increased understanding of}{
\insrsid15421774\charrsid3826080  cosmetics\rquote  environmental impact }{\insrsid11425490\charrsid3826080 has brought about a third round of lipstick}{\insrsid15421774\charrsid3826080  regulations focused on environmental safety.  }{
\insrsid11425490\charrsid3826080 Within the last twenty years, animal rights concerns have also produced a fo}{\insrsid3697588 u}{\insrsid11425490\charrsid3826080 
rth layer of animal safety lipstick regulations.  And the history books have not closed on either }{\insrsid3697588 the status or the}{\insrsid11425490\charrsid3826080 
 varied safety regulations; society should expect to see in the future what it has in the past, lipstick phasing in and out of respectability but lipstick\rquote s formal and informal regulation }{\insrsid7616592\charrsid3826080 haltingly }{
\insrsid11425490\charrsid3826080 experiencing a}{\insrsid11425490  net increase regardless.}{\insrsid328925\charrsid10833632 
\par }}