Evaluation of Silk and Rose Biomaterials in the Nano-Cosmeceutical Industry: the Claiming Balance Between Nature, Science, and Regulation

Abstract

Human beings are constantly trying to find the next way to sustain youth and vitality with new creams, pills, and supplements – it is no wonder the cosmeceutical industry is one of the fastest growing segments of the personal care industry. Trending anti-aging nanotechnology derived ingredients such as the infusion of collagen, hyaluronic acid, resveratrol, honey, coconut oil, and silk therapeutic treatment are but a small part of the vast explosion in the lucrative “skinceutical” market. Alternative application utilizing more natural materials in combination with varying medicinal therapies is certainly gaining momentum partnering both science and naturopath dualities. This approach is the deliberate utilization of extracting a chemical component from a natural biomaterial and applying it to all facets of the body for beneficial therapeutic purposes. The purpose of this thesis was to examine the historical development of the cosmeceutical industry (more specifically the resultant nano-cosmeceutical industry formation) and the use of biomaterials for skincare and its beautifying benefits – focusing on the anti-aging phenomenon. We aimed to provide an overview of the developing trend in nanotechnology (i.e. silk protein nanoparticle) in collaboration with natural biomaterials (i.e. essential oils) and its synergistic effect. We also examined whether there was substantial evidence that nanoparticles and nanotechnology processes (such as silk protein encapsulation) coupled with essential oils (such as rosehip oil) truly provided improved skincare results. The study focused on providing a thorough comparison on two specific biomaterial entities (silk protein nanoparticles and rosehip oil) relative to claims substantiated by the cosmeceutical industry with respect to (extrinsic) aging. We collected and reviewed ingredient lists of products branded with claims providing anti-aging results composed of “antioxidant” materials and dissected how it was relevant to the product’s identity, function, and performance. We aimed at curating a diverse range of information from thirteen products drawn from companies (ranging in size) with respect to rosehip, silk, and combination based materials. We summarized the current governing standard applicable to the nano-cosmeceutical industry and provided guidance to bridge any deficiencies utilizing existing federal regulatory agencies. Finally, we reviewed newly structured organizations and Third Party certifications provided direction and assistance toward future nano-cosmeceutical development with respect to claim substantiation. Due to the extensive nature of our data collection while cross-referenced with the current and often ambiguous regulatory landscape – our work was novel in providing a recommended matrix and regulatory guideline for the cosmeceutical industry relative to product claims.